Camry :: 2010 - Unlock Button On The Key Won't Work After Warm Up
Dec 28, 2012
My toyota remote starter works great. The problem is when i use the remote starter and then go to get in the car after it warms up the unlock button on the key will not work. i have to unlock the car manually by putting the key in the door. This only happens when use the remote starter. The unlock button on the key works no problem otherwise.
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I did a search and read the manual but I can't seem to figure it out. Is there a way to unlock all of the doors by pushing the unlock button on the key fob once? I see in the manual it can be done I think by turning "remote 2 - press unlock" on in the car settings but it doesn't seem to work. Also am I reading correctly that there are no door unlock sensors on the rear doors? With my LS and my old IS I could touch the rear doors and all of the doors would unlock but this can't be done on the GX?
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Dropped my car off at Costco for a few hours (New Tires) and when I picked it up, the "unlock" key on my key fob failed to work. The Lock and trunk unlock keys work but the typical unlock (for the doors) doesn't work at all.
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Yesterday when I pulled in my garage, my 2007 Prius starting locking over and over by itself- it was freaking me out.
In doing some internet research and on here, I realized that my unlock key was “stuck†and could not be pushed in, and I assume this is what was causing the automatic unlocking. I have played around with it, but so far I have not been able to open it up or pop it back in place as some have been able to do.
A couple of questions:
I think this has caused the battery to die on my FOB, because none of the buttons work now, and the red light doesn't flash when a button is pushed. But, the smart key system still works, the doors unlock when I touch the handle, and I can drive the car. Will that continue to work with a dead battery in the key FOB??
What bugs me about this is I NEVER use the buttons on the FOB- always use the smart entry, etc, so I know I didn't do anything to cause the unlock button to stop working...
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I just got a 2015 RX, loving it so far, I have been able to fiddle around with some settings to get it the way I want like keyless unlock drivers side door to unlock all doors, keeping iPod screen on with auto changing to maps, and track up on Navi.
However I cannot figure out how to get windows to go down but not sunroof when I hold the unlock button? Is there a way?
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Starting a few weeks ago, my drivers side door of my 2007 Camry doesn't unlock either with the keypad or by using the button within the car. Someone broke something off in the lock eons ago so now I'm just climbing over the passengers side which stinks. This isn't happening all the time, usually just when I'm in a rush But it's happening more frequently.
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Strange problem. 2006 4 door Camry. Only the drivers door unlocks when using remote or the unlock button on the door panel. The three other door have to unlocked manually. All 4 doors lock with the remote or the button on the drivers door normally. Not sure if this is a door switch problem or a remote problems or how to further isolate this?
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How to unlock the steering column of a hybrid push button camry?? Im so confused and can't find any information.
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I have an '03 Camry XLE with V6 engine, which I bought used later last year. The automatic climate control AC was standard with this vehicle. But when I turn on the AC, the light on the AC button blinks on and off, and it blows warm air. The first thing that I did was check the under-the-hood fuse box, which is where the manual shows a 10 amp fuse for the AC. PROBLEM...there is no 10 amp fuse where it should be, but to make matters worse, there is an empty slot with no contacts to accept a fuse as well. The fuse box cover shows that there should be a fuse at that location as well, but there is none.
A lack of info about relays in both the cars manual as well as the Chilton repair manual, accompanied by the fact that there is no fuse where the manual and fuse box cover says that there SHOULD be a fuse for the AC is what caused the confusion. The AC relay is called the "magnetic clutch relay"...why, I don't know. But I swapped that relay with a similar one that I know was working and the AC works fine. The new relay is about $14, and there is no fuse because there should be no fuse...the relay does the trick, I guess. Anyway, problem solved.
APPARENTLY, some things must get lost in the translation. The car's manual shows TWO fuses labeled HTR, or heater...yet describes them as being for the air conditioning system. Case closed?
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I tried to start my car with the remote key by pressing the unlock button 3 times and hold on it on the third time. It does not work at all. What is the problem?
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Got an 04 Camry SE that will not lock the doors. I can unlock the doors from the switches inside the car, drivers and passenger side doors, and also with the fob. The LOCK function does not work from any source, door switches or fob. The problem relates to all 4 doors. I've been having to manually lock the doors when I park the car. I've read people having issues in hot weather and also when it's wet, but my problem is all the time. Hot, cold, wet, dry it doesn't matter. Also I don't hear any noises when trying to lock the doors telling me that it's even trying to lock.
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2011 Prius II, purchased 2/2012. Driving down the highway, and the car pops itself into Neutral and the check hybrid system warning light comes on on. Had to have it towed to the closest dealership who pretty much told me it must have been my fault; I must have hit the park button driving down the road. However, about an hour prior to getting on the highway, we were driving down the road, heard a beep and started decelerating. I noticed the car had some how ended up in Neutral. Shifted it back to drive kept on our merry way. Half hour later we pull into a gas station, and the park button is not working. The only way we could get the car into park was by turning the car off (pushing the power button).
Once we got back in the car, we checked the park button and it seemed to be working again, so we took off down the highway. We only got about a mile before the car popped back into neutral, the check hybrid system light came on, and we could not keep the car in drive (by shifting it back into drive) because within one second the car would pop back into neutral. The day previous to all this, my car had just had its 5k mile maintenance.
The next day I didn't even make it out of my drive way before the car pops itself back into neutral, but no codes or anything pop up. Put it back into park and drive to work without further incidents. I bring the car to the dealership where I purchased it and they opened a ticket with Toyota drive it for 100 miles and cannot recreate the issue and Toyota is unaware of any issues with park button or the spontaneous neutral shifting. This was 2 weeks ago.
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I recently purchased a used 2010 GTI with the Autobahn Package, leather seats, Nav, the 510 nav/sound system unit etc. The steering wheel has the button on it that would normally be used to control phone or sound system functions by voice, but when I press it, it acts much like the phone button on the bottom left of the radio/media unit - ie. it mutes the radio, but doesn't do much else. I just wanted to check if that is normal behavior or if the fact that I have that button on my steering wheel mean that it is supposed to function?
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So I was driving as usual and out of nowhere my front speakers stopped working. Everything started playing out of the rear speakers and my fade was still centered. I tried the hard reset with the pin and all, shuts the touchscreen and radio off, hit the power button, and nothing changed. Well, my setting were all changed but nothing changed with the front speakers. If I push the fade all the way up to the front, the radio is just silent. Can't figure out what I should do since it seems like a thousand people had this problem and it was fixed by resetting.
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Yesterday the AC worked fine, until I got off work. Then it was blowing as usual, but almost warm air, it wasn't enough to cool the car. When driving and I turn it on, I do see the RPM's lower slightly. A co-worker looked at the compressor and clutch while I turned it on and he said they both are working. He did not see any bubbles in the little window on the line though. The light on the control button is not blinking and the in cabin filter isn't dirty.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Camry LE V4 version, it has about 47k miles on it and about 4.5 yrs old. I have developed a problem over the past few months where the car will crank fine in the morning or when cold (sitting around for several hours or overnight) However if the car is Warm when driven for about 10 miles or more, then parked and then started again in 15-20 minutes it will feel hesitant to start, seems like it takes several cranks before starting and literally feels like it will die while cranking but it will eventually start.
i have the original stock battery, i got it checked at O'Reilly and they confirmed that battery, stater, alternator looked good and cold cranking amps looked good and other items checked out as well fine.
I am not sure what the issue might be at this time, However since the problem is at random and only when outside is like a 100F (which it is not now) and it is warm/hot (driven after 10+ miles), i am not sure what is wrong with the car. I have been using Top Tier gas for the most part, however i had used Arco for about 3-4 months during the Spring/Summer of 2013.
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The button to enter the address for Destination is greyed out. Even when the car is not in motion. I bought the car used so not sure if the previous owner has disabled anything in there.
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I just received a 2010 Camry XLE V6. The problem is such: no matter what I do, I am unable to input or enter an address into the built in GPS. the "ADDRESS" button is greyed out and not clickable.
I can't enter an address (123 W. Whatever Street, Anywhere, USA) to put in something for the address book, home location, "drive to" etc.
The Toyota dealership guy said, "something is definitely wrong"
the whole car and built-in unit work fine with the exception I cannot enter an address because the button on the on-screen display/menu is greyed out and unclickable ...
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Inserted updated nav disc as directed in nav disc slot, closed door. Now the disc is stuck in the scan-disc mode and the load/eject button doesn't work on it. Wondering if there is a way to force eject the disc or other way to unstick it. You can hear the disc 'whirring' briefly as if it is trying to eject, but is stuck. It does this over and over. That's the only sound; none of the other buttons are responsive.
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I just punches a 2010 Camry 4 cylinder with 44,646 miles. Very clean. I've owned 2 camrys in the past a 97 and 2002 that both reached well over 200,00 miles without a hint of trouble. Well, when I start the 2010 when its cold like from overnight it sounds like the lifter are ticking?, it lasts until the engine is warm and then I don't hear it. It still has the 2 month 3000 mile warranty from the dealer. I just don't seem to remember our other Toyota sounding that way.
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My smart key works, but the manual unlock button seems to be broken. That is, there is no "give" when I press it.
I'm not sure if the lock button works either - I think it does not.
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