I recently recognized a clicking noise from the passenger door when I open it half way or even fully.
up to now I'm still assuming its a lubing issue as it is really cold in here Ottawa, Canada.
I have read a thread that was talking about the same issue and the guy found that there was a bolt wasn't tighten enough from the factory that caused the clicking sound.
So, I bought a 2012 camry se about 2 months ago and as soon as I got it home I noticed a clicking in the drivers side door when I open and close it. There's three clicks before its fully open, I'm thinking that it clicks at every stop point the door has. I know there's some models that have this put it stock so the wind doesn't blow your door shut on you, is this what it is? I tried looking online about it but couldn't really find anything.
View 14 RepliesMy 2003 Camry's battery was drained this morning and there was a rapid clicking noise. Upon further investigation, the clicking noise was in two places, a large red relay under the hood and also inside the car. The open door indicator was flashing rapidly in step with the clicking noise. The clicking stopped when I inserted the key into the ignition but it would not start.
I first tried removing the door open fuse but there was no change. I then removed the relay and the ECU-B fuse and all clicking stopped.
Top of the back door is hitting the garage while opening inside the garage and getting all scratches, Is it possible to open it only 1/2 way as I can see that option in other SUV's but can't find any setting in the manual. Is it possible to do on 2013 RX 350?
View 1 RepliesRecently purchased a 2004 Toyota Camry with only 58,000 miles on it. Only one problem has showed up - the "door open" indicator stays lit - does get brighter when an actual door is open and shows which door but never goes all the way out. Sometimes it gets slightly brighter and dimmer, back and forth.
Sporadically when I start the car there is an audible clicking (cycling) back and forth that sounds like a turn signal coming from the fuse panel to the left of the steering wheel. The only way I can get it to stop is by opening the door, closing again, open and close the locks, turn the engine on and off, etc.
Yesterday it continued while I was driving and eventually stopped on its own (and again today). Weird - I think it must be a fuse or a relay or something but I pulled all the fuses one by one and they all look good. Not sure where the relay is....The door open indicator never goes completely out though - sometimes it pulses all night long but doesn't seem to run the battery down or anything.
I have had that car, the best one I have ever owned, since shortly after Nine-One-One, a date some of you may remember.
I never open any door but the driver's door with the key. Several months ago, for some reason it occurred to me to try and see if they worked.
Nope, both the rear hatch and passenger's door lock would not open with the key. I assumed that the mechanism corroded up over lack of use over the years.
I thought, Well, crud. But, since I haven't used those door locks in over 12 years, I can probably get by.
I thought I had lost the spare car key when I was in Texas in December. To my surprise, I saw it on the key rack in the kitchen here in rural Mexico. I took it out to the car to check it out, and it opens all the doors.
I compared the keys, and one of the 'vanes' on the key I use all the time is a very tiny bit smaller than on the spare key. My guess is either that key never opened those two doors and I never noticed it. Or, it has worn over 12 years.
So, I guess when I get back to the States, I will have a copy made of the spare key. I am also going to post this on Sienna Chat for obvious reasons.
When I stop the car, sloshing noise come from back of 2006 Toyota Camry after filling full tank of gas. Tried couple times, I can still hear the noise feels like liquid sloshing noise coming from fuel tank. Even after I parked the car, tried to push the back side of my 2006 Toyota Camry, sounds like the fuel is sloshing from the tank. Is it normal? I never heard about this before, maybe I didn't notice. It was not loud but audible.
View 7 RepliesSo the story begins last year when my inside front passenger handle no longer would open the door. I replaced the actuator with one from Ebay which worked great for a few months. Then suddenly everytime that I would press the fob twice to unlock the pass. doors the locks would unlock and then continue trying to unlock for about ten seconds. After pulling every door panel and unhooking each actuator individually, only after unhooking the one that was already replaced did the issue stop. It had a warranty so it was replaced and worked fine for about a month. Now I'm having an issue with my doors not staying locked. No matter how I try and lock them (with the exception of manually flipping each lock) they lock and automatically unlock like a door is open or key is in the ignition.
I tried reprogramming the locks to shut off the autolock thinking that may possibly fix the issue however even holding down on the lock button doesn't keep them locked so.....no reprogram mode.
We just upgraded our Prius from Gen 3 to Gen 3....a 2012. Great ride, just drove it from SoCal on a Sierra Mtns road trip, a little hiking and snowboarding for our spring break. What we failed to notice upon purchase was a passenger door whose controls want work! The drivers door can lock the car and operate the passenger window and lock. However, the passenger door switch won't open or close the window, nor will it lock the door. All other doors and locks work normally.
View 1 RepliesMy '11 Prius has developed a problem where the rear passenger door will not open from the inside. It will open from the outside. All other doors function as they should.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1995 Toyota Camry V6 XLE and ...My driver's side door locked up and won't open from the outside or from the inside! Here are the problems:
1. I can put the key in the keyhole on the outside and it will turn clockwise but won't turn to the left at all- when I turn it clockwise it makes the normal sounds.
2. I can from the inside push the power door locks to lock and unlock and it moves the lock both ways on the drivers side, still won't open!
3. When I pull on the latch from the inside and from the outside I can hear the inner mechanisms moving, sounding like it wants to unlatch it from the locked position.
4. Now I am getting paranoid about the passenger side door because when I go to put the key in on the passenger side door lock, I can turn it to the Left to unlock the doors but the key won't turn to the right at all! It is a pain right now as it is to crawl over to the driver's side via the passenger door, but if that door locks up for some reason, I am really up the creek! I don't even lock that side right now b/c I'm afraid it might mess up like the driver's side door!
I have my Ex parked in the driveway, as the weather has been nice and I've been taking my motorcycle everywhere.
I went to get something out of it the other day... Opened the door and it sounds like I've left the hazards on... There's a clicking coming from the dashboard and the overhead lights, and running board lights blink. If I shut the door, it stops.
Do I need to call in a priest?
I went to open the door that holds the nav controls and it open half way then stops. I pulled as hard as I dared to without breaking it.
View 2 RepliesMy husband and I almost bought a used 14 sonata SE last night, but it was contingent on the dealer fixing the clicking or pinging noise going on under the passenger front door. It was going on during the test drive and continued after the car was turned off. The car has 7,000 miles on it. So the dealer took it to a hyundai dealer this morning to have it repaired under warranty, and the hyundai dealer said its a normal new car noise and will work itself out with time - but there's nothing to repair.
I'm aware that sometimes exhaust systems or heat shields ping a few times when the car is turned off? Did it eventually stop? And when? It really is annoying. I'd like to get this car, but he refuses to buy it if it's making this noise.
When I open my door or the driver's side passenger door, there is a thwump or suction- like noise that sounds as if it is coming from the trunk.
I had a repair done a few weeks back and had a loaner 2014 TDI SE, and it had the exact same sound.
I have a 2011Toyota 4Runner with ICON Stage 1 and Light Racing UCAs-I got about 65K on the truck and about 35K on this kit.
Over the last month or so, I started hearing a clicking/clunking noise coming from the front end (passenger side from what I can tell) while going over small bumps in the road. Now here is the strange part, I do not hear it first thing after I start driving but perhaps 5-10 minutes into the drive, I begin hearing the sounds. Here is another strange part; the sounds cannot be replicated if I am driving over a speed bump and I have tested many speedbumps to test that theory. The clicking sound can only be heard as I am driving down the road and any minor imperfection or bump will cause the clicking. I also can feel some feedback in the steering wheel every time I hear the clicking noise. Standing still, if I turn the steering full right or left, I cannot replicate the sound. The only way I can replicate is by the right wheel contacting any tiny bump or imperfection.
So here's what I have done so far. 1)As I was getting my 60K service at the dealer, I asked them to check it out and they just blew it off blaming the aftermarket suspension.2)A few days later, I took it to firestone (yeah I know) and asked them to check it out - They checked out the suspension and everything else and claim all seems good. 3)I am in South Florida (Miami) right now and found out about Karnage Motorsports. They have a very good reputation and were very professional. They checked out the ICON kit as well as suspension and steering but did not find anything wrong either. As a matter of fact, initially they couldn't hear the sound but after I drove the car for 10-15 minutes and took it back to them, they sound came back and they did notice the clicking noise from inside the cabin and even when he was walking alongside the car on the front passenger side.
So to sum it up, the clicking noise comes after the car has been driven for 5+ minutes and it is coming from the front right side. The noise is made as I am driving down the road over any small bump/imperfection and it's quite noticeable. I can also feel some feedback in the steering. 3 separate places have checked out the vehicle but no one seems to be able to find the issue but the guys at Karnage did hear the sound (he is going to ask around to see if he can find something).
I am just about done and I am at a point where I just want to get rid of the vehicle since I am not sure if something is going to collapse on me on the interstate at 70mph.
It only has 65000 miles so I do not want to get rid of it....
I think that one of them is coming from the passenger door. It is more of a clicking sound kind of, than a rattle. Maybe as if the door panel isn't tightly attached so it moves back and forth a little and clicks.
The other rattle is from the cupholder area.
I took this car to my dealer and they fixed another rattle from the passenger door (claimed it was a screw in the speaker that had fallen out?), but it was replaced by this new clicking rattle. They also claimed they did something to the cupholder to fix it, but it didn't work.
My question is, how the door panels are attached to the car? I was thinking that if it is attached by a few screws I will try tightening those up myself before I go back to the dealer. It would be great if it was just attached too loosely and I could fix it myself.
My 03 camry is a four cylinder and has 156xxx miles.
The first issue started with every time I reversed, I would hear a simple clicking noise on the passenger side. Not much of a problem at first, but later it started getting much louder to the point of a loud "THUD." From there, as I reverse it would have a high pitch ring in the rear end.
Anyways, now I hear NO sound or thud, except for a few things have changed. Now after reversing I heard the thud in the front passenger side as I drive off and turn the wheel. It also has a cracking sound whenever i go over speed bumps. And not to forget that if I have to reverse out of something, the brakes drag BAD.
The passenger side front wheel also smells BURNT after my drive.
At 10000 miles my dealer replaced the regular oil with synthetic. Since that time I have heard a clicking noise (lifter?) when the engine is cold. It goes away (or not loud enough to hear) when warmed up. The dealer says "this is normal due to all aluminum engine. Quote " Some engines are noisy some are not" Am I getting the run around or is this true?
View 2 RepliesMy passenger side front and rear windows dont work. Both driver side windows work, just not the right side/passenger side.
Also when I press the master door lock/unlock switch on the driver seat, every door except the rear passenger door works. It stays unchanged so I guess it is not receiving a signal or something is not letting the signal reach the lock.
The noise seems routine. It happens when you get close to the car and open your door. I guess the car is anticipating that you will start the car soon and under the hood, some subtle mechanical noises occur. Just wondering what that noise is?
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