I have a 2010 Toyota Camry 2.5L. Suddenly the blower-motor stopped working. I looked at the under-hood fuse panel and noticed a few of the fuses in the fuse bus-bar were blown, however I'm not sure how the bus-bar is removed. Is this most likely my blower-motor problem? If so, how do I replace those fuses?
View 6 RepliesThe air conditioning blower motor stopped working this past summer (worst timing ever). I took it out, put it back in, and it worked again for a day before dying for good. So, I ordered a new one and replaced it. The replacement was working fine for about 5 months, but it then began exhibiting the same problem as the original: it wouldn't come on until after I'd been driving for a while. The new unit never made any unusual noises while running (the old one got noisy just before I replaced it), but now it isn't coming on at all. I find it hard to believe that the replacement blower motor has failed after only 5 months. What else should I check?
View 5 RepliesI have a '95 Camry LE with the 2.2L four cylinder. The car ran PERFECT. Went to town today, great. Get in it a few hours after returning, it will turn over but not start. It is getting fuel, no fuses are blown, but is not getting fire.
View 5 Replies247,000 miles on '98 Toyota Camry as of last summer, car owed us nothing. Suddenly lost oil a month after regular oil change, ruined engine. Mechanic found used engine from totaled car (w/ approx 65,000 miles). Current problems:
1. speedometer/odometer not working,
2. heater/blower stopped working this week, blower makes a LOUD, HIGH FREQUENCY sound, sort of like a siren.
Was hoping to get another 2 years from her considering recent cash outlay. The mechanic couldn't figure out issue #1, and he hasn't looked at it since #2 started this week. I guess we can live w/ issue #1, but #2 has to be fixed ...
Turning the fan knob yields no results. The AC compressor does kick in as I can feel it when I turn it on when idling, so the knob appears to work. The blower does not move air.
I checked the fuse below the steering wheel and the fuse makes a complete circuit although the edge looks a bit darkened. Other fuses from working devices look the same and I took a spare 10A fuse from the designated area and inserted into the blower motor fuse location - still nothing.
I will also inspect the relays/fuses in the engine compartment to see if anything in there looks blown that's related to the blower motor. Hopefully it will be something simple, but probably not...
I will need to take it in to get it looked at and fixed, and this is probably not under warranty since vehicle has 56k miles... while I'm there I'll have a transmission fluid exchange done as well and I was planning on getting some body work done.
My bumper was torn off from the fact that it sits low enough that sometimes it would go over the parking stump. Well, it eventually got caught really bad and tore it off. Now the tab where the screw goes to secure the bumper has sheared off so it just hangs. Also, the tearing action from the parking stump caused the inner fender to come off and rub against my tire while driving, tearing it into shreds from the friction.
I have a Full Size 93, 5.8L Van. The blower motor has stopped working. I have checked the fuzes, ok. I have checked the Power Distrubution Box, ok. I do have power to my Aux (rear) blower. I have hot wired my blower motor, it works. I have no power to the blower motor, thermal limiter, or to the fan control switch on the dash. (Like I said, the Aux on the dash works). What else is there?
View 14 RepliesI own a 99 Suburban 1500 5.7. The front blower motor stopped working on all speeds so I replaced the resistor, it still did not work. I then replaced the speed selector switch and it started working fine. Three days later I smelled a slight electrical burning smell and the fan stopped working again. I plan on replacing the switch again to see if that is what went bad. Whats causing this to happen? Maybe the motor is going bad and causing the switch to short?
View 6 RepliesMy blower motor in my Jetta recently stopped working. When I turn on the blower it works for 10 seconds or so then slows down and dies. Is this a blower motor or resistor problem?
View 1 RepliesGot a 2008 Hyundai Accent. Yesterday, the blower motor just stopped working. I had just started it up, the heater came on for about five seconds. There was no noise, no funny smell, nobody had done anything to it. It just stopped. I checked the ac fuse and it looked fine. I looked in the fuse box under the hood, and I'd like to check the fusible link for the blower motor to see if it has a problem. Is this something I could do and how? Also is there anything else I can do to diagnose the cause of the problem?
View 2 RepliesMy air conditioning has stopped working and the dealer tells me the blower motor has frozen up. This car only has 73k on it. Is this common to the 2005 Touareg or ?????
View 3 RepliesI've read quite a few threads on this subject and came across the resistor, fuses, and relays. I have some fundamental testing procedure questions.
1. To test the resistor, it says to back probe the brown/orange wire to check for voltage. So I'm assuming I would hook up my positive lead, here?
Do I really need to hook up the black lead all the way to the negative terminal on the battery? Just with a long extension? Or is there somewhere else I can hook the black lead to? (I know, how dumb!)
2. I downloaded owners manual, but I can't seem to find a fuse or relay specifically for the blower, so what fuse and what relay is it?
3. In the Haynes manual, it says locate the blower motor relay, in the relay box under the center dash panel, where the hell is that?
4. Do I need to remove the glove box to access the resistor and blower hosting.
5. Anything else I should know?
Well, let me rephrase that, the AC works but blower motor doesn't. When you put your hand up to the vents, they're cold.
Long story short, I ran my AC on MAX on way home from work, driving time of approx. 35 minutes. I got home, showered, and got back into car to go downtown to store. It was then I discovered that the AC wasn't coming on, and it was still on max. I shut it off and turned it back on, but to no avail. I checked all related fuses, or at least what I think is related and checked my "Taurus Bible" the chilton manual. I swapped out a blower motor relay and it didn't work, but i'm not sure that relay was or was not good, it was out of a '96 E-250 at work.
So now I get out my test light. I pulled the connection from blower motor, connect it and turn on AC and light comes on. Vents are getting cooler. So I get my tool and pull the radio and climate control assembly. I pull the plug to the actual fan connection, the part that connects to the fan switch that controld fan speed. I'm getting nothing there.
Is there a relay I don't know of? I know the AC still works because vents are still getting cold, but I can't get air to move. A LONG time ago it did this but "corrected" itself. What is my next step? I'm not sure what to check next and my repair manual is leaving me in a boat with no oars.
More details of car:
1996 Ford Taurus 3.0 V6 Vulcan motor, 8th VIN is UAUTO188,000 miles
White 4 door gray interior 3 car seats
GoodYear Tires inflated to : 33lbs LF34lbs RF36lbs RR35lbs LR
My 1989 740GL has a blower motor that doesn't work; I looked into it and discovered a blown 30A fuse. So I replaced fuse and guess what? "POP"! No luck... It keeps blowing them, so I really haven't looked that far into it, but where I might start?
View 2 RepliesBlower motor only seems to be working on the 3 & 4 position? Resistor bad? What is the location?
View 1 RepliesMy 2004 camry LE (235K miles) has had a noise associated with the blower for several months. The blower worked fine on all settings but had a subtle noise that was between a purr and a click. It's constant, fast-paced, rhythmic and rises in pitch as the blower setting is changed. Hot or cold settings don't make a difference. The closest I can approximate is the sound made when kids put (or used to put) playing cards in the spokes of their bikes.
However in the last couple months the blower has stopped working intermittently. Sometimes it will come back on if I went over some railroad tracks or a hard bump. If I turn the car off the blower may not work when it's restarted. The last couple days it's stopped doing even that, and since there's snow on the ground it has become an issue! The fan setting doesn't make a difference, high or low.
We have a fleet of Prius's with 11k miles on them. Windshield wipers don't work and cigarette lighter plugs don't work. I'm guessing this is due to blown fuses. Where the fusebox is? I'm getting fed up with this. Also, is there a diagram somewhere that shows which fuses are for which circuits? (IE Which number fuses protects windshield wiper circuit) so I can finally see in the rain...
View 8 RepliesThe key fob for my 2006 Toyota Camry stopped working. I replaced the battery twice with new ones and it still doesn't work.
I bought a replacement key fob from Amazon and followed the instructions (along with the youtube video) many times to re-program the new key fob and it didn't work.
2004 Prius, 135,000 miles.
About a month ago, the blower motor stopped coming on all the time. A quick whack under the glove box fixed it when it didn't start. Then about a week after that, I felt like the AC wasn't really warming when needed. This may have been true earlier, but it hasn't been that cold around here, so I wouldn't have noticed, perhaps.
About a week ago, I start hearing what I might describe as a rattling kind of noise I had never heard before sometimes under hard acceleration. Not always. Didn't hear the noise tonight, for example. Of course, then, tonight, on the interstate, the warning light pops up for just long enough for the temperature indicator to flash up. It quickly disappeared, but in the remaining two minutes I was driving, it flashed up briefly twice more.
Now, in digging around on this topic, I've read about issues with the inverter coolant pump, and that there was a recall. How could I find some information on this recall? I don't remember ever having it changed, so I'm just curious what I might need to say to get that swapped out under a recall if appropriate.
Also, based on what I've said, does it seem likely that the issue is with that pump? It sure seems to fit the bill, but who knows. I'll be bringing the car in ASAP but I'd naturally like to be armed with as much information as possible.
My rear defogger stopped working after I got the car back from collision repair. I'm trying to see if I can resolve this matter by myself before having to take it back. I've noticed that there is no rear defogger contact on the power grid. None that I can see anyway. I was trying to locate a manual or where it was located if there even is one. Or Why my defogger stopped working.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 volkswagen jetta, and it has started overheating. At first my problem was the thermostat. After that was changed out the fans stopped working correctly. It kept blowing fuses in s180 slot.
I read somewhere in another post that this is due to the fact the resistor in the low speed fan go bad, and for your car's radiator fan to go from zero to high speed, causes the fuse to blow. Also I read that when the fans start up it draws the most current, and then after it's running the current is considerably less.
This is my solution, I went to napa, and got a circuit breaker for a car, and Yes, to my surprise they make them. I picked up several a 10amp, 15 amp, 20 amp, and a 30 amp. First, I tried the 30 amp circuit breaker and it didn't trip the circuit, but when I put a regular fuse in the slot, it did trip the circuit, when I did the fan test at the thermostat switch. Next, I put the 25 amp in there and neither did it trip the circuit. When I put the 10 amp in the s180 slot, it tripped the circuit, just as the regular 30 amp fuses do. So that confirmed that the amps that were being drawn from the fans were not enough to trip a 30 amp circuit breaker.
What I did next, is I took a 20 amp circuit breaker and put that in the s180 slot. Then I hooked up vag com on my laptop to check and see how it performed with the 20 amp circuit, and these are the results.
Car Temperature in celsius
at 111 degrees the gauge was moving past the halfway point
at 115 degrees the gauge was one notch past halfway going towards the red zone
at 120 degrees the gauge was two notches past halfway going towards the red zone
at 122 degrees the fans kicked on high speed for about 30 seconds, and knocked the
temperature down to 105 degrees.
In conclusion, if the high speed on the fans work, you don't have to take those out and go and buy an expensive new fan set. Just stick a 20 amp circuit breaker in the slot, and keep using the fans that you have.
Part no: 782-3154................ Name: Circuit Breaker, 20 Amp; Blade
Note: I take NO responsibility for any damage you do to your vehicle from any information you obtained from this post. Do this at your own risk! I am not a mechanical expert but this is my solution to the overheating problems.
A few days ago my speedometer stopped working. Then yesterday all of my gauges stopped working, as well as my turn signals. If this is a fuse issue then which fuse it is?
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