Camry :: 2010 SE - Engine Losing Power When Headlights Turned On?
Apr 17, 2016
I own a 2010 Camry SE which I bought about 2 months ago with around 58k miles on it.
A few days ago, I noticed when I switched my headlights on auto, the car radio turned off. When I turned the knob from the auto light position to the to headlights, the radio comes on again and and goes off if I keep switching back and forth until it eventually stays on regardless of what position the knob is at.
What is even a stranger, yesterday, I started my car and turned the auto lights on, switched it to the headlights, and the radio turned off, but I also noticed that engine lost power (?). It didn't completely shut off, but it was noticeable when I was going back and forth between the light switches.
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I can see this whenever i stop at a red light, once i accelerate the shaking is gone, and the headlights are really bright once again. I already replaced the alternator..
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I bought this used Camry 2010 LE 4 Cylinder with 38k miles on it. Right now I have 42k miles on it.
The issue I have is whenever I turn off the engine and then turn it on. The moment I put it on drive and accelerate I hear a clapping sound. It sounds like clap noise when I just turn on the engine and accelerate. It only makes that noise when i start the engine and accelerate and after that the sound is gone
When I leave the car overnight, and drive it the next morning. The sound is louder with a clap sound right after i accelerate. It happens every time i turn off the engine and turn on and drive but it doesn't sound as loud when i leave it for overnight. It still makes the sound but not as loud.
Sometimes you feel it clap on your foot when you accelerate.
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Ok, my final question about my 2010 Camry I bought. It is certified preowned which means everything has been inspected and maintained. So I was surprised to see my maint. req light blinking. They didn't change the oil?
However, I noticed it is only coming on and blinking when I have the key turned to power on, but not when the engine is cranked. Is this just a normal light display? I'm definitely calling the dealer if the oil needs changed already.
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I have a 2013 elantra limited with the tech package. Today I discovered that my parking lights or headlamps stay on after the car is turned off and the vehicle is armed. The interior blue lighting ( gear selection, push start ignition button, a/c selections, Eco button etc. ) stays on as well. I checked the fuses, but couldn't find anything that pertains to the parking lamps.
I usually run my lights in the drl or headlights position as I lost the auto feature when I installed my H.I.D's. And they usually shut off after a good 15 seconds.
I installed a powered compact subwoofer today and initially wired it to the same battery terminal as the H.I.D.'s but now have switched to another terminal.
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I have recently purchased this 2012 Gen 3 Prius JDM imported from Japan. It is with LED parking lights and HID low beam. At day there is no issue with lights Off, even no issue on parking lights On but as soon as the headlights are turned On i get the fault indicator and some warning in Japanese language on inner screen. Apparently, all lights, on the other hand, are working fine.
When i took the car to repair shop, they installed the diagnostic computer and it showed B2430 and B2431, LED headlight RH and LH, whereas my model is with HID headlights, not LED headlights. At day its ok, i get normal info on inner info screen but at night this error triangle and error message keeps showing instead of normal info and is a cause of fear for me as well because i dont know how serious it may become.
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When I turn on the headlights of my 2010 the dash backlight dims considerably. It becomes difficult to see/read when the sun hits it just right...especially wearing polarized sunglasses. I have the dimmer switch set all the way high. Is there a way to increase the backlighting or have it not dim as much with the headlights on?
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I have a 2003 F350 SD FWD Dually With 4.10 Axle Ratio. I'm looking for some front rotors and pads and I'm looking for recommendations. I tow a 44' Goose neck racing trailer on a regular basis so I dont want autozone crap rotors that are going to warp in a few thousand miles. I was on rockauto.com, they have Wagner, Bendix, Motocraft, Powerstop, etc etc. I thought maybe those Powerstop drilled and slotted looked interesting, but I dont know much about them.
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Sitting in my living room I noticed that suddenly my headlights on my 97 Subaru ob turned on. First thought was someone was stealing my pos. Knife in hand I went to investigate. No one there. The keys were in the car, in the off position. The headlights all of a sudden turned off. I noticed that the dash lights were flickering on and off. I removed the keys yet the dash lights remained on. Not wanting my battery drained I disconnected the positive cable, which obviously corrected the issue for the time being. When I was disconnecting the battery I heard a mechanical whirring noise coming from the passenger side of the car just behind the headlight. Have never heard this noise before. NOT the intake fan or the AC. Did not investigate extensively due to darkness, wind and rain.
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I bumped my exhaust pipe where it connects to the muffler pipe. Its not completely loose but it makes noise and im losing mpg. Its pretty rusted, can i get that part welded?
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I have a 2002 Saab 9-5 with a 3.0L turbo with 125k miles. The cruise control works fantastic UNLESS the headlights are on... huh??
I can replicate 100% of the time. It is getting dark earlier now - and my wife will not drive it anymore to work (35 miles) without the cruise control working.
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With a cold engine in my 2010 Forester (29,000 miles), the coolant level has dropped from "full" to "low" in the overflow reservoir over the last 8 months or so. The level was down at that time (8 mos. back) and I topped it off. There is no obvious coolant puddle on the driveway. There is a gurgling sound at tailpipes and the exhaust is very wet. I'm worried there is a cooling system leak into the engine. Overall I have not been happy with the service dept. at my dealer (bought the car used from him) and wondering if this is the type of diagnosis and repair that an independent shop could handle.
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My old 1996 Camry with 2200 cc 4 cylinder engine, frequently keeps losing power to the spark plugs. I have changed the fuel filter and the ignition coil. That did not work. I also noticed that the car was starting when I unplug and replug the primary wire plug to the ignition coil. So I have replaced the primary power plug with a six inch pigtail and a used plug purchased from a salvage yard. This is not working either. The Toyota dealer near my house want to replace the igniter and the Engine Control Module just to be sure that these are not the sources of problem. The dealer did not test these parts. So I refused to replace the parts without a proper test. I would like to test these parts. Is there a test available for the igniter and ECM that could be performed. I have access to a lot of tools. I need a schematic and/or test to test these components.
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I have a 2010 Camry LE. I would like to make the headlights come on when I unlock the doors with the fob button. The interior lights come on now (briefly) but not the headlights. Is this customizable?
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Our ABS light, anti-skid light, and engine light are on. The light came on when 3 year old son hit it. It just never went off. Dealership hooked it up to diagnostics and said we needed to spend almost 500 on a new ABS system. ALSO, at the same time, the car now sounds like its working very hard to accelerate. The rpm's go up, but there is no additional power. Is this connected to the ABS problem, or is this a transmission problem? Took it to a mechanic and he didn't check the transmission. After talking to him, he said it could be the transmission.
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Truck started losing power then service engine light came on, drove about another mile then it just stalled ( almost home lees than a 1/4 mile). Got out open hood oil everywhere on top of motor. Looked under truck and oil all over the road. Looked back where I was driving a line of oil as far an I could see. Checked oil barely any on stick. Where should I start hpop or plug?
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I have 2010 Camry front windshield fogs Up than i press defroster. Before fog on front windshields clears up after pressing front defroster button. Now it doesn't work.
This fogging only happens at night after I turn the A/C on. Front windshields fogs Up than i use the defroster no use still the front window is fogged up.
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Have a 2010 Camry XLE, 47000 miles. I'm beginning to notice a weird, almost like "scraping" sound when I go from reverse to Drive with the wheels turned when it's cold. It only seems to happen when it's cold (sitting overnight in a garage). Once the car's warmed up and even allowed to sit for 8 hours in a parking lot in the sun, I don't notice the sound. The sound isn't horrible, nor is it loud, but it's definitely a noise that shouldn't be occurring.
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I have a 2010 Camry Le with the 2.5 4cyl. What I'm trying to diagnose started in the last 2 weeks, the engine just seems like it's lost some power overall but there is no unusual sounds coming from the engine and it has not triggered and codes. I have checked the simple stuff like the air filter and plugs but am not sure where to turn next.
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I have a 2010 F150 4.6 3V... The power steering reservoir is constantly losing fluid. I've purchased the truck,used, a few months ago, bought a warranty. The dealership has had it multiple times now and can't find the leak. They just keep replacing hoses and the problem keeps occurring. Also worth noting, the truck has 6" lift with 35s. I've have also pulled the radiator cap and found a decent amount of what looks to be sludge/oil inside. Dealership says it's probably just bad coolant.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry. It had been burning gas, losing powere, white smoke smoking excessively through the tailpipe, and idling extremely rough, sometimes to the point of dying. It ran ok at highway speeds, but terrible everywhere else. We figured that it was getting moisture into the engine. We essentially did an upper engine overhaul, replacing gaskets and parts as necessary. It ran fine after this, and then three weeks later, started having the same symptoms. I found gas in the oil, changed oil, which turned it to run smoother, but still smoked and died at idle. I found out the clutch fan barely blows. I can't afford to get an actual mechanic involved, but I don't know where to look next.
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