I am in the nasty position of having to remove my 6-spd manual transmission to investigate the nasty whine in it. The dealer says $2300 to fix it and the parts are $100, so I am going to do it myself. I have been unable to find a repair manual yet for the 2010 Camry and I was wondering for step by step for removal of the tranny. I don't need a lot of detail, but it is nice to know the order in broad strokes.
View 7 RepliesJust curious if there are any other 2010 owners with any difficulty shifting gears in their manual transmission camrys? I noticed during my test drive that I grinded my way into 2nd once... I thought it might have just been my nervousness with a new clutch at the time. However, I've since put 300 miles on the car and I still have trouble putting it into second gear on a daily basis. Sometimes it grinds a bit, and sometimes it catches or a half second before it pops in. All the gears OTHER than 2nd gear go in like butter as you would expect with a new transmission. I'm not new to a clutch... this is at least my 4th car with a stick, so I don't think I'm doing anything out of the ordinary when shifting.
It reminds me of some older (100,000+ mile Nissan) cars I've had in the past... the syncromesh was wearing out and it would grind going into second or third, so I put in some RedLine MTL and got a little more life out of the transmission... but there shouldn't be a need for that kind of thing on a car with less than 1000 miles on it?!
My 1997 Saturn SL2 with 5 speed manual transmission won't shift into first or second gear. When I shift into the location where first would be the car is in third gear. It shifts into 4th, 5th and reverse just fine, though the shifter is in the wrong position for those gears. I can wiggle the shifter in neutral and get it to move into the position where 5th and reverse are normally found, but it is stiff and makes a clunking noise when I move the shifter over to the far right side.
I have removed the center console and the bushing appears to be intact. Both cables are in their proper positions inside the vehicle and at the engine. One of the cables (the top one in the engine) has some wear and tear on the boot, but does not appear to be binding. Other than the stiffness and the clunking noise, the shifter seems to be working fine too.
2004 Jetta 1.8T w/5 speed manual transmission. Bought the car this way, mostly for a parts car, but everything else runs and drives good, so if it wasn't for this issue it would be a decent driver.
Won't/can't select first gear. Seems like there is no "spot" for first, or that the shift mechanism has no where to go., locked out. All the rest of the gear selections work perfectly. Tried the cable adjust ritual, but it was fine-as I suspected. The shift assembly works/moves perfectly from the tranny end and the shift lever end. Not a synchro, it won't go in stopped, moving, running or shut off.
So, what's the probable best guess or best way to come to a diagnosis? Shift tower parts broken somewhere, or something like a shifting fork bent broken? Seems like if it was internal there would be other gear selections that would be affected. Any links to some diagrams?
I have a 2006 Toyota Matrix. I want to change my manual transmission fluid in it. I have called dealerships and auto parts stores and keep getting different answers. I was wondering exactly what kind of fluid do I use and how much fluid do I use. I am not going to pay $219 for the dealership to do it but I want to make sure I put in the right kind and the right amount.
View 1 RepliesMy cluch is almost 2 years old and gets treated with kid gloves , I shift low in the RPM's And accelerate slow for smooth shifting and fuel savings (17mpg avg.). But as of yesterday I can here the gears wind up after I push the clutch in. No problems with power or gear handling , Just the sound of the gear(s) (low dry rev/wind sound) No visible leaks , Clutch has oil at the step mark. Also - I can Make The Trans create the same sound if I keep the clutch petal in and rev the engine.
View 3 RepliesMy wife and I recently moved to Panama and we bought a 4 wheel drive 2007 Nissan Frontera diesel pick-up. Great little truck so far, 27 miles per/gal! However, the 5 speed manual transmission has started making a loud whine or growl under power. Down hill, gas pedal up, no noise. Clutch in, no noise. Gas pedal down, growling .Growl is related to ground speed as it stays the same when I shift gears.
View 3 RepliesJust curious. is it possible to convert my auto camry to manual transmission? also, how much would it be? where can i go?
View 5 RepliesI have just acquired a 93 Camry with manual transmission and no tachometer. However, I have a auto one that I am wrecking with a tachometer which I want to fit to the manual vehicle which I will keep in commission.
Where it is connected to the engine wiring? Is there a sender unit? Or does it sense pulses from the distributor?
The service manual that I have does not describe it.
Just bought a 2010 Prius II. The engine was overheated. Question, is there enough clearance to remove the engine alone, or will I need to drop the engine and transmission as an assembly? Looks Ike there is room. Mechanic at the dealer is telling me there isn't.
View 11 RepliesWhen first drove the new Elantra, I stalled it more than should. At first I figured I was just new to the feel of the clutch, and not in tune with the hints of RPM given by the motor's sound, etc.
A couple of times after stalling, I pulled the shifter to a middle neutral, and then back in 1st, and now it really felt like it was in 1st. Eventually, I developed a quirky habit of shifting out of 1st to neutral and back to 1st every time I stopped. My kids commented on it and they don't even drive.
A couple of times I've cautiously done this test, and it proved my suspicion. Suppose you are coasting at a speed of around 40 mph or 60 kph, and intend to come to a stop ahead. I typically push the clutch in and coast, then brake. Somewhere along the coast to stop, I will also put the gear into 1st. I've discovered that if the gear shift is put into 1st while the coast speed is sufficiently high, the actual gear selected is 3rd. Then, when you start to pull away from the stop, the engine stalls.
If anyone tries to reproduce this shift into 3rd when 1st was intended while still coasting, be careful and let out the clutch slowly at the early part of the release so you will get a hint from the engine RPMs what gear it is heading toward. I don't want to be responsible for wear and tear on your transmission/engine or accidents. I've only attempted this test on a road with no traffic, myself.
Although what I am claiming sounds wacky, I think it is possible, given that transmissions over the years have been moving towards electronic rather than physical linkage.
In the last 8 months I'm having a shaking of the car when starting in first gear (manual trans).
I thought it was a loose engine mount - had it checked and one replaced and still the shaking is there.
I notice it is more pronounced when the engine is hot and starting on a decline.
Since I've had this Camry (almost 8 yrs), I've had the clutch changed 2x. First time was just wear and tear. The person who replaced it put the fly wheel on backwards! Drove it for 3 years until it just broke. Replaced by another shop who couldn't believe I got three years out of the bad job.
At any rate, this doesn't feel like a clutch-related issue. No slippage feeling or other issues when moving through the gears at higher speeds. But maybe they did a bad job too?
I have a 2011 Camry 6 speed Manual Transmission and every so often when I shift gears I hear a squeal noise in the engine right as I fully let off the clutch and give it gas in the next gear up. It usually does it when shifting to 2, 3, and 4th gear. Any other Manual Camry owner with this issue that might know what it is? I never really hear it if I take off slow or shift at a slow/normal pace, but if I'm in a rush and have to pick up and GO then most likely will do it.
View 4 RepliesI've been working on a cruise control issue on & off for about a year now. Vehicle is a 2011 UD Elantra with a 6 speed manual trans. Problem is cruise won't set in 6th gear. Works perfectly in 2nd through 5th gears.
Cruise power light stays on but won't set. Upshift indicator working correctly. I've had Hyundai field service engineers look at it 3 times with no luck. Vehicle has no fault codes at all. All switch & sensor inputs are correct. The only vehicle I had with a man. trans. to compare to was a 2013 MD. Cruise worked fine in 6th on that vehicle. The last word we got from Hyundai (supposedly from Korea), was that this is normal and cruise on that model is not supported in 6th gear. I find this hard to believe but I wouldn't doubt this is a programming issue. 6th gear should be the most used gear for cruise operation.
First of all this is also my first camry and I noticed that there is only 1 reservoir for the slave and the brakes - which is unique to cars Ive owned in the past. My question is when I remove my slave cylinder from the trans and unhook the hard lines from it would this introduce air into the brake lines since they share the same reservoir? Should I remove the brake fluid from the reservoir before I disconnect the slave? I am wondering because If i just disconnect the lines brake fluid will leak from them between the time I disconnect the old slavecyl and hook the new one up.
Also regarding the trans fluid. my le has 80,000 miles on it and I am not sure whether or not the previous owner ever changed it before. I am having a hard time finding information about how much fluid and exactly which fluid to use. All I know is that gl-4 is the safest choice, butis it ok to use red line mt-90 or amsoil MTF? I dont want to ruin the trans by putting in the wrong fluid and/or wrong quantity.
A friend has a 2010 ranger with the 2.3L with the manual transmission. He said that when he drives and the rpms are up he said he gets a grinding noise it doesn't matter what gear 1rst or 5th. He think throw out bearing but no noises at all until the rpms are up there. I was think internal like shift fork but don't know.
View 4 RepliesI recently bought a 1994 Ford Ranger, XLT 4 cylinder supercab. They lost the door keys when they replaced the ignition because they never locked their doors. I bought new lock cylinders with keys and set out for an adventure. Removing the metal clamp that holds the cylinder in place was actually easier than I thought. It's that darn plastic piece connecting the cylinder to the rod for the lock system that will not break or come off. Here's the best picture I could find real quick. How do you get that vile piece of 20 year old plastic off? It's in a difficult place to get tools in there, and I can't seem to get leverage with a small screwdriver anywhere. What tips and tricks do y'all have?
View 1 RepliesOk so my transmission feels loose, too much play between the coast and drive side of the gears. Makes enough noise now that my wife complained about it so I'm looking into taking it to the dealer. I pretty much expect them to pass this off and do nothing, but its getting worse especially in the last couple of months.
Noticed a lot of play in there gearbox? Can you hear the gears make noise as they shift from coast to drive side?
I've noticed that when I'm coasting to a stop and my speed gets to about 27 MPH, the transmission downshifts (RPMs increase) until I reach about 22 MPH. I'm not applying the brakes at the time.
It's a bit annoying as it sometimes bleeds off just enough speed that I need to accelerate to reach the point I was planning to stop at. Is this normal?
I would like to know how to check the fluid lever on this car I have been told there is a fill hole and that's where its checked, how this is done. I know they say its filled for life but I would like to know if its full or not...
View 2 RepliesExperiencing a low speed transmission surge or hesitation when applying first applying the gas at parking lot speeds.? I especially notice it when traveling downhill or a slight decline. The motor revs as if in neutral then the transmission catches on. I mentioned it to the dealer at the 1000 mile check up and they said they could not find anything wrong. I'm getting ready to take it in for the 5000 mile service.
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