Camry :: 2010 LE - Ultra Racing Rear Sway Bar Doesn't Include Bracket?
Apr 9, 2013
I got the UR rear sway bar for my 2010 camry LE today, but it only has the bushing but doesn't include the bracket that secures the bushing? Is that OK can I reuse the OEM bracket? or did they not send me everything?
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We all know the sway bar end link problems in the early superdutys. Several years ago I installed energy suspension bushings and thought the problems were gone. Lately it started clunking again. I tightened the bolts with a breaker bar and it worked. but now it making noise again. I purchased a set of mevotech end links. Upon installation I found the problem.
Over the years of clunking the bolt hole on the upper driver side is no longer round. It has become oval shaped. I read a couple threads on here about this problem. I can't drill them out as the mevotechs have studs not bolts. Can I get the mounting bracket that bolts to the frame. Its a triangle shaped piece that the end link stud goes through. I have tried searching for it online to no avail. Whats it called?
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I have an 04 SE with 3.3. It hit a curb hard last year. With all new parts on the front right corner, including a strut. The car would sway in all directions after the repair. I got it aligned and all was in spec except the rear strut was bent causing a 3 degree camber difference. I put new struts on all the way around.
I didn' change the front sway bar. Now the rear of car is swaying to the side when I hit a bump. Is that an alignment issue?
Seems like it bangs and bottoms out more so than it should with new struts. Used old springs, but all else on struts is new, insulators, mounts, strut. Used old boots.
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As a lot of Camry in this world, my rear sway bar bushings went bad. Tried to replace them, I went slowly with the ratchet on the first bolt as I don't want to go with the impact tool, but that damn bolt decided to break anyway...
I called my local dealer and he said he don't have the replacement in stock and he cannot tell me the size of this bolt.
What is the size? My 07 SE have the bracket with only two bolts.
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Our 2010 Prius with 33000 miles has developed strange 'engine racing'. At low speeds around 20-30mph, (warm) engine will rev up for 10+ sec with no foot on brake or accelerator. Then engine warning light comes on. Toyota dealer says "lean code", cleaned MAF sensor, checked AF and O2 sensors - OK. But same behavior continues- engine warning light back on. Otherwise runs normal.
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Rear brake light doesn't come on on the right side only when braking.
However, when I press on remote buttons to lock or unlock the car doors, all the rear bulbs light up including the rear right stop light bulbs so I don't think this is light bulb or socket issue. I checked the stop, alt, and Haz fuse and they're all good. what else I should check?
I also checked TAIL fuse, and that wasn't it. Car is Toyota Camry Standard 2006
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All of a sudden the rear right passenger window doesn't stay closed, it goes all the way up and then it goes down half way. It doesn't matter which switch I use, the driver's side or the passenger side. All the other windows go up as soon as you toggle the switch automatically up and stay up.
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Just got a 2010 LX570 and the rear hatch doesn't open with key remote or close when button is pressed, just beeps twice.
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I drive a 2013 Elantra Limited. I cannot open the Driver side rear door from inside. I am hoping its a quick thing to enable this?
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My wife's 2010 Lariat, has a problem with the heater switch. Its stuck in one speed.
Also the rear defogger switch doesn't light up. We don't know if the switch to it is just bad, OR if the whole system is bad.
Was also wondering if the blend door would be bad??
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I have a 03 Solara with the 1MZ that has had the engine replaced with a 02 camry 1MZ. I bought it as a project, and have everything worked out, but I've run into a problem that I need solving. The power steering adjustment bracket is different between the two cars, due to the T-belt tensioner it doesn't have a stud to mount it too. It has the tensioner at a angle, not straight up and down.
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Trying to pull the passenger side axle off my 2004 3.3 SE Camry. The whole hub assembly is out of it so I have some room to work.
I can not get the axle carrier /bearing bracket off. This is the bracket that bolts to the block. The c-clip snap ring thing is removed from the the bearing carrier.
So I am jerking on the CV with a slide hammer, numerous times. Not sure if there has been any movement.
Any secrets? Does transmission have to be in neutral to release the axle from tranny or anything like that?
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Can the hellwig sway bar links will work with an oem sway bar? I need new ones and figured why replace with something I know will fail early...
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I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 1/2 ton 4 wheel drive truck. The upper rear shock mount bracket has rusted off.
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I am in the process of re-assembling a 97 F-150 that was disassembled by someone else. Looking for photos or reference as to where the bracket for the parking brake should be located and how? It looks as if the bracket connects to the front leaf spring hanger, but I'd like to see a photo of it in position as well as routing of the cable around the spring and axle. I'm concerned with re-installing it and having it in a position where it will bind or get pinched.
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I'm working on a 2007 Camry and I had the wheel bearings pressed in & out at a shop. I put everything back together but the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket. And there is no air gap between the rotor and bracket so it can spin freely without rubbing. The passenger side is fine, there is a little air gap so the rotor can move freely without rubbing. I don't understand why the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper? I checked everything over, the pads and rotor are the correct ones. I also took the pass side caliper bracket and installed it on the driver side and same thing, the rotor still rubs against the bracket.
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So tonight I got the chance to install my H&R Rear sway bar on my car...let me start off by saying I was lucky enough to have a lift, air tools, all the correct tools, etc...now the frustrating part...i opened the box saw the bar and new bushings, figured this should be 100% straight forward 10 min job... the old bar came out in about 3 minutes...then I got the new bushings on the H&R Bar and went to put the factory brackets on...they wouldn't fit even close. Luckily I had a press so I pressed them on. Once I got the bar in the car I got the two top bolts started and could not for the life of me get the bottom two...its like they were 1/4in to low... Was I missing parts from H&R? also the factory caps/brackets seemed to sit off to the side of the new H&R bushings and there was no way to line them up straight, but I finally got everything on there..
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2011 Lexus RX350 ... What are the Torque specs for the caliper bracket bolts (front and rear caliper brackets) a pdf will be great
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I installed the 2008 Scion xB rear anti-sway bar (part number PTR11-52091) on my Prius Saturday morning. For those interested in this mod, here are install instructions with photos of the process.
The 2008 Scion xB TRD rear anti-sway bar will fit a Gen III Prius.
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I'm pretty certain that my 22mm neuspeed sway bar bushings are shot. they squeak like crazy and when I looked at them to grease them up it looked like they had space, oh and they knock like crazy. Any better source or place to check locally? Would Napa carry something like this? and is Poly my only option? would a rubber bushing wear quicker?
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I just got a 2000 Passat 1.8T with a bad motor.
Symptoms include: rough idle, oil leakage, coolant light comes on after running for about 2-3 min., I checked the coolant res. and it has what I suspect is oil in it. I know that the PO ran cheep oil and oil filters the last 2 oil changes and this has caused the famous cannibalization of the engine but what I need to know is would this feed oil into the the coolant over flow tank? There also seems to be some oil/coolant seeping from the upper left.
The car only has about 90k on it and most of those are highway miles, other than cheep oil, the car has been very well taken care of.
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