Camry :: 2010 LE I4 - Hard / Hesitant Start When Warm
Jan 22, 2014
I have a 2010 Toyota Camry LE V4 version, it has about 47k miles on it and about 4.5 yrs old. I have developed a problem over the past few months where the car will crank fine in the morning or when cold (sitting around for several hours or overnight) However if the car is Warm when driven for about 10 miles or more, then parked and then started again in 15-20 minutes it will feel hesitant to start, seems like it takes several cranks before starting and literally feels like it will die while cranking but it will eventually start.
i have the original stock battery, i got it checked at O'Reilly and they confirmed that battery, stater, alternator looked good and cold cranking amps looked good and other items checked out as well fine.
I am not sure what the issue might be at this time, However since the problem is at random and only when outside is like a 100F (which it is not now) and it is warm/hot (driven after 10+ miles), i am not sure what is wrong with the car. I have been using Top Tier gas for the most part, however i had used Arco for about 3-4 months during the Spring/Summer of 2013.
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My Camry has 185,809 miles on the 4 cylinder, it has recently started to be hard to start when it's at operating temperature, has code P0301 and p0302 replaced spark plugs at 185,000 miles no change, possibly ignition coils?
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I just punches a 2010 Camry 4 cylinder with 44,646 miles. Very clean. I've owned 2 camrys in the past a 97 and 2002 that both reached well over 200,00 miles without a hint of trouble. Well, when I start the 2010 when its cold like from overnight it sounds like the lifter are ticking?, it lasts until the engine is warm and then I don't hear it. It still has the 2 month 3000 mile warranty from the dealer. I just don't seem to remember our other Toyota sounding that way.
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2011 Camry LE, 76k, new alternator, stars well cold, battery good, runs well... Just takes longer to start after its warm, cranks well, engine turns over well, idle great....
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I recenty replaced the upper intake manifold gasket on my gmc sierra 1500 350 motor. In the process I did plugs and wires and power steering pump. I went through everything and cleaned it to perfection and put it together. It started like a dream and took it for a test burn out in the country. About 15 miles down the road I shut it down and went through all the fluids and upon starting I noticed it was really hard starting. Kinda like it had alot of compression. I just replaced the battery 2 month ago with the best Interstate battery they had and it still checks out good.
Every time I went to start it cold it started normal but when warm it had the same hard starting issue. Well a week later I stopped at the store before work and it did the same but then just rested to a stop and now the starter just clicks every time I turn the key. I can turn the motor over by hand with a wrench and all battery connection are good. I just put a new starter in today thinking that may have been a fluke of a deal but nothing still. I did see when I first tried the new starter that the pulley on the alternator was trying to spin over ever so slowly tell it quit again.
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I am having a problems with my intrigue... Hard to start when warm i checked the pressure reg vac hose found no fuel so im not sure if that is the problem. I have the 3800S11 engine. sometimes it will start when warm other times i need to push the gas a little to get it to start.
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This has been going on for 3 or 4 months can someone tell me where the ETC sensor is located on 4 cylinder 2008 Elantra ?
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I have a 99.5 golf gls with an 02' engine in it. 5 Speed, neuspeed supercharged with a bunch of other stuff done to it.
I've had this issue as long as I've owned the car (3-4 years). Starting the car cold, it usually fires right up and can drive it e, no problem. However, when I get the car up to operating temp and turn the car off, if I immediately try and restart the car it either :
A.) chokes but will fire or
B.) will have a long crank and usually starts hard.
Another thing I noticed is that at low RPM right after the clutch has been engaged, the car seems to almost hesitate like something is holding it back, even if I give it more gas. I have checked my codes with Vag com and the only CEL I have it for not having a post cat o2 sensor (picks up that the heater circuit is unplugged). I also have run some diagnostics on my fuel trim and both long and short term fuel trim are within spec. I tested two different mafs and both were around 2.5g/s at idle. Checked for vac leaks and didn't have any.
I have read that a dead/dying crank sensor can give me the symptoms I have, but I seem to be lacking a symptom where the CEL is on for the sensor, and my car doesn't randomly die when driving. So my question is, have any of you had the same symptoms but no CEL?
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1991 honda crx si - starts fine when weather and engine is cold but lately giving me trouble starting when it is warm [above 80] and engine is cold [has not been driven for several hours].
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I got a new to me 2004 4x4 Excursion v10. 98,000 miles but why it is hard to start when the engine is warm. Starts right up when cold, engine not ambient air temp, idles great once started. In park idles at 1,000 until normal op temp is reach, then down to 750ish. In gear idles right at 650. Drives great. Plenty of power, does not surge, averaging 13.7 mpg over two tanks (70% hwy, 30% city) and no codes. Since it is new to me, and I don't trust people to do maintenance I have:
Replaced spark plugs
Replace downstream o2 sensor (the two upstream were not in stock)
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced belt
Replaced crank sensor (because the belt was already off)
Changed oil (mobile 1 5w20) and filter.
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My 2000 VR6 Jetta has an annoying problem of hard starting in warm weather. Last summer through fall when the weather was warmer, it would often crank but not catch. All winter it is fine. A jump will usually gets it after a while. Replaced the battery with limited success. I park in the shade whenever possible. It has the manf. alarm system, and, also, but not always, it is accompanied by key not turning off the alarm. Do not have remote. Replaced the Fuel Pump Relay. No success. Cannot predict, so I don't want to have it sitting at the dealer for days on end.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe and have recently noticed the following problem. When it is hot outside (95 degrees) and car has been idling for a while, suddenly the A/C will start blowing warm air and the temperature gauge will start creeping up above normal. It hasn't fully overheated as when this occurs, I shut off the A/C or start moving and it returns to normal temperature. The A/C will then work properly again. Also, when this happens, if I turn the car off and then try to start it again a few minutes later, it is very hard to start but eventually starts. It can easily be reproduced, but I want to try to understand possible cause before taking it to a dealer. I was thinking maybe fan going bad, or fan switch.
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I have a 2002 F-150 4.2L that is hard to start when warm. Cold starts are no problem, except in the below 0 F stretch last winter. Also when it is a hot start it is not an issue. Only when it has sat for a few hours does it have an issue. The following is the list of things that have been done.
- New Plugs,
- New Plug Wires,
- New Coil Pack,
- New Fuel Filter,
- Clean Throttle Body,
- Clean Mass Air Sensor,
- Clean Idle Bypass,
- Replace EGR Vacuum Control Switch,
- Manifold Leak Repair (Ford Dealer),
- Throttle Body Stop Adjusted for more idle speed,
- Check fuel pressure (40 psi key on, drops to 35 psi static).
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I have a recently rebuilt 400 with a mild cam and Tmeyers flat top pistons. The carb is a 600cfm edlebrock that was bought new and installed a few months ago.
The issue I'm having is if I'm driving around and shut it off to run in the store its hard to start when I come back. I end up having to floor the gas to get it to start. When it's cold I tap the gas and turn the key and she lights right off. Could this be an issue with vapor lock? Why does it go away if I floor the gas?
Only other thing going on is when accelerating the engine runs noticeably smoother above 2700rpm. It's a little boggy below that. Probably two different problems but I figured I would throw it out there.
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My mom just picked up a 2003 CLK 430. I drove it around for a bit and noticed that a few things didn't seem quite right
The transmission seems to start out in 2nd gear rather than first even when the transmission is not in "winter" mode. The transmission is also very hesitant to downshift, and often times will not downshift at all if the car is moving.
There's a noticeable amount of lag time between when you stand on the gas and when car actually starts accelerating.The engine doesn't seem to rev very quickly or freely, and there is some noticeable pinging when the engine is under load. Performance was very tepid for a 275 HP car.
The spark plugs and ignition wires were replaced last week. The car has 105k miles on it. I know the previous owner used regular unleaded, and the owners specifically states that 91 octane should be used and goes as far as to mention precautions that should be taken should regular unleaded. The car was filled up with 93 octane fuel earlier today.
Just 15 minutes ago, I took my stepdad out in the car to demonstrate my findings. On the first drive (about 5-10 minutes) the car acted like it did when I had driven it earlier in the day (not downshifting, hesitating, lack of power, etc.), and the check engine light came on. He wanted to drive the car to see for himself. So we pulled over, shut off the engine and switched seats. He got behind the wheel, started the car, the check engine light is still on. But the car ran perfectly. It was starting out from 1st gear and would downshift promptly when give full throttle. Performance was immensely improved. The check engine light is still on though. The car has a 1 year bumper to bumper warranty. So I guess they can bring it in to have it looked at.
I'm just sort of at a loss as to why the car performed so poorly when I drove it, and all of a sudden performed correctly, after the engine was restarted.
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My 1994 Subaru Legacy has been running unbelievably smoothly for the 7 years that I have had it. It has just over 160,000 miles on it, and our mechanic suggested that we change the timing belt as preventative maintenance. Since that incredible investment (worth over 50% of the car's value), I have had one problem after another. Once running, the car runs very well, but getting it started is another story. It takes several tries to start, it shakes back and forth, it makes horrible noises, and once the engine finally turns over, it is hesitant to engage the gears. The mechanic thought it may be the cam sensors, so he replaced them. That made absolutely no difference. What could be wrong with this car that was perfectly find until the timing belt was changed?
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Yesterday the AC worked fine, until I got off work. Then it was blowing as usual, but almost warm air, it wasn't enough to cool the car. When driving and I turn it on, I do see the RPM's lower slightly. A co-worker looked at the compressor and clutch while I turned it on and he said they both are working. He did not see any bubbles in the little window on the line though. The light on the control button is not blinking and the in cabin filter isn't dirty.
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My toyota remote starter works great. The problem is when i use the remote starter and then go to get in the car after it warms up the unlock button on the key will not work. i have to unlock the car manually by putting the key in the door. This only happens when use the remote starter. The unlock button on the key works no problem otherwise.
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My 2012 idles after start up on a warm day at 1200rpm which seems high to me. Should it be lower?
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It seems like it takes an awfully long time for the good mileage to get going from a cold start - even when it's warm outside. The last 5 miles of my commute are great, but the first 10 miles not so much. How much effect does ambient air temperature have on this process.
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My Daughter owns a 2000 Camry. It has a very annoying habit of not starting when it is warm (think driving to the gas station, turning the car off to fill it and then it doesn't start again). We have tried new solenoids, a new starter and several other tweaks but nothing seems to fix the problem. Recently she discovered if she jiggles the gear shift lever (it's an automatic) it will start. So, obviously she gear shift lever is not finding Park or Neutral so that it can be in position to start. She has experimented with this concept and it appears to be the only thing that consistently solves the starting issue. What would we have to fix in the gear shift lever, or elsewhere, to fix this problem?
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