Camry :: 2010 Cuts Like It Wants To Stall When Stop After Driving
Feb 11, 2016
I've got a 2010 Camry. I've had it since new and it's been pretty well maintained. Recently, I've been having an issue where it cuts like it wants to stall out when I stop after driving.
The idle will also surge, but it's a small surge, from like 750 rpm to 1,000 and then back to 750. Last night after driving, it dropped to around 500rpm for s second and I thought it was going to stall, but it didn't.
I love the car, so I'm hoping it's not a serious issue. 6 speed manual with about 130,000 miles. Other than this and a small exhaust leak, it's running great.
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I just bought a volvo 240, cuts off and stalls while driving. Wondering what hose this is.
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so, I'm driving home the other day in stop and go 102 degree traffic, and my A/C cuts out. I thought maybe my compressor took a dump, because I've noticed a little noise from that side of the engine. Then I look down, and notice my water temp is like 240-250ish. As soon as traffic starts up again, temp goes down to normal, and A/C comes back.
I have a 2 mile commute to work, so it hasn't happened since then.
no DTC's, no rad fan. A/C fan works. Put 12V to fan - no worky. fuse block on top of battery not melted.
Obviously I need a fan, but I was wondering about something else. since this started, my car gets to normal operating temp (NOT), in literally under 2-3 minutes. I know its Texas and a billion million degrees, but I think that's too fast.
Green top coolant temp sensor, and metal impeller water pump already installed.
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We have a 1992 Toyota Camry which runs great except that it stalls at every stop light. We have had the engine, distributor, coil, coolant temperature sensor; computer, and EGR valve checked. Yesterday the mechanic stated there was nothing wrong with the EGR Valve, what to check next?
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The other day I got into my car and it started fine. After driving about a block it cut out. All the dash lights come on but it makes a funny sound when turned over and doesn't start. I tried jumping it but it was no different
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Okay so my dads 93 explorer seems like its starving for gas, it cuts out almost like its going to stall, hasn't stalled yet, but it seems like its not getting enough gas, new fuel filter and still having the same problem, fuel pump isn't that old either, just started doing it maybe thursday. We haven't really looked much into it yet, but what it could be?
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I have a used 2007 Prius (my dad owns it) that I've been driving for a little over two and a half years. I can't remember exactly when it started, but my car has this issue where, if I make a turn from a stop, it cuts out a few times. Like, if I'm sitting at an intersection waiting for the light or traffic to clear and step on the gas to turn, it'll go but lurch about 3 or 4 times in the process. It scares the heck outta me because I never know if I'm going have enough speed to make the turn without causing an accident, so I wind up waiting for completely clear lanes, which annoys the drivers behind me.
It happens randomly, there's no guarantee it'll happen every time. It's more frequent when turning right. I've told my dad about all this, but when he took it for service months ago, he said they said that it was normal (sounds fishy to me). So here I am now, the problem's still there, so I tell him and he decides to get new tires for the car. Those came, but they didn't fix it.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla with a strange gas pedal problem. Randomly while driving the gas pedal will stop working. If I depress the gas pedal all the way when this issue happens it's as if I'm doing nothing. The car just goes to ideal. When I let off the pedal and reapply pressure it's like nothing ever happened. The car has 123k miles and an automatic transmission.
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My 2012 V6 seems overly susceptible to the belts squealing (which leads to the AC not cooling until the belts dry) when I drive through a puddle.
I don't have charging or electrical problems or any symptoms of a too loose belt, although I suppose perhaps it is slightly loose? Or is this just a common problem because of a not big enough splash guard?
I'm not talking about driving through a monsoon flood with water up to the doorjams, I'm talking about even going 5 to 10 or 20 mph, through a dip in the road with a little standing water, and knowing water will splash up into the engine compartment, make my belts squeal, and half the time, make the AC stop until the belts dry.
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i have a 1988 toyota camry that has 205000 on it and for some reason while driving the o/d will start to blink and the tranny will stop shifting and loce alot of power was wondering if it is a sensor or if i have to replace the tranny? the car is a 4 cly. with what toyota call the four speed deluxe
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I was having real ruff idling problems for about 4 days, especially at stop lights. When I drive on the highway no problems. Starting the car was no problem.
I could hear whistling sounds while I idled it on my driveway, figured vacuum leak or pcv valve. I replaced the valve and the boot, but still had the problem.
I could still hear whistling sound then I noticed my pcv assembly hose was broken where it branches off to the intake. (See pic)
So I went to dealer and got the tubing. I installed it today. Now I try to start it and it sounds like it's not getting enough gas and it even turned off on me at the store. Once the car is on however, when I'm at a stop light the problem idling is gone.
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My engine light came on a few days ago and with no signs of problems I decided to wait until next week to take it in. At the end of a 70 mile highway trip today when I exited the highway and coasted to a stop the engine cut out. I managed to coax the car home but the idle was very rough and it would cut out when I came to a stop. At times I noticed the engine light flashing. What this could be - I may try to coax it to my garage which is about 15 miles away tomorrow if possible.
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A week ago, I bought my wife a 2010 Platnium White Lariat. (I will post pics later, when it's clean). We noticed that the smell of fuel, was bad after driving it, and coming to a stop, say at a stop sign.
We returned it to our dealer, yesterday, and this what they found. Just though I'd pass it on to you, for problem shooting, and infor to ask a dealership.
This is the quote on the paper we have. "Customer states when filling up or at idle the can smell fuel in the passenger compartment. Smells like coming from the engine area. Leaking at fuel rail. Tightened valve and road test no leaks now".
We were told that it was a "schrader valve". There was NO CHARGE for this repair. So far it seems to be o.k.
The advise we were given was as follows:
1) NO HEET is needed in the fuel tank
2) No Sea Foam, or injector cleaner of any kind
REASON: Was told it would mess up gaskets, and seals etc. I'm not a mechanic, just passing the word that I was told.
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weird thing happens in my 2.0 manual jetta. every 1500ish miles, when coming to a stop, it feels like my car is about to stall but its not in gear.The trip milage will reset, radio will turn off, dash will dim, but no CEL. Since then key fob doesnt work (replaced fob batteries), and my DRL are off. still cold starts no problem (figure its not the battery), trying to figure out if i can get closer to what needs a fix before tearing into something unrelated.
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2008 golf city... So I bought this car about 2 years ago and the last couple weeks its had trouble starting and will sometimes stall out when your about to accelerate (from a stop sign) the mechanic I go to replaced the a couple relays under the drivers side dash, however I it hasn't made it better it actually made it worse as now it won't start at all the last 2 days. It rolls over and tries to start just doesn't. Its my only car and I already missed a week of work for it ( I commute ) I need it fixed. I believe the relays where the EMC is what he said number 249 I believe.
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We have had the TDI for exactly a year now, and have 33 000 km's on it already. In the past 2 months, we've noticed the engine cutting off for a second while driving. It can do this a few times during one drive and it does it at any time, not related to the temperature of the engine; it has done it wether it's cold or warmed up.
Brought it to the dealership today for regular maintenance, they explained to me that it was normal and it's called a regeneration process for the emission system. They couldn't tell me the frequency that this could happen. For our car, it happens at least 2-4 times a week even a few times within a drive. I don't know if it was the same thing but I was passing a car last sunday and while accelerating, the engine just shut off for that second and all of a sudden a big cloud of gray smoke came out the back.
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My kia runs great then cuts off during driving, It starts up with no problem and may run with no prblem for some time. I have replaced the fuel pump and filter, had it diagnostic, the only code that shows is the oxygen sensor. It also have had the jiffy lube fuel system cleaning. any clues to what may be happening, the vehicle has 150k miles.
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I currently have a 2006 B6 w/ approx. 95k miles on it. A couple months ago I had my catalytic converter replaced at the dealership and then about a month ago my car started having issues with stalling.
Symptoms:
-Car drives normal - no loss of power or anything, but then will randomly stall when coming to a stop or slowing down, taking my foot off of the accelerator. After it stalls the red alternator light comes on. Check engine light comes on and off - lately on most of the time.
-The issue has gotten progressively worse recently, but for the past month it has been inconsistent. Sometimes I can go an entire drive and not experience it and then other times it will stall nonstop. Lately, there have also been a few times where it's taken a few tries to start it, though this is recent as before it restarted perfectly fine.
-Recently, the car has started exhibiting symptoms at highway speeds as well, occasionally brief episodes where it will begin to jerk and shake. Usually stops as pressure is applied to the gas pedal.
-Also, have issues with the parking brake... the switch seems to have randomly broken in the center (no clue how) and I keep getting a parking brake fault. Not sure if this is related or an entirely separate issue.
I took the car to a very reputable independent VW/Audi shop and after several days they still have been unable to locate the issue. Based on the codes the MIL was sending the first visit, they replaced the low fuel pressure sensor and the cam position sender. Neither fixed the problem. So, now I have to decide where to go from here... They took off the labor and only charged me for the parts.
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I have a '95 Ford F150 with a manual transmission and when I come to a stop light, the engine will either idle down more then it should then go back to normal or it will idle down and then stall out. And when I accelerate, I have to gun the engine for it to go forward or it will stall out again. I replaced the fuel filter and cleaned the air intake area and it still happens.
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I have 2000 Grand Caravan w/ 3.3L, AT. When warmed up, in stop and go traffic, at lights, or in reverse for parking, the idle speed drops, the oil light flickers and unless shifted to neutral, stalls. I've replaced the fuel pump and filter. I've adjusted the idle screw on the throttle body to 700 rpm, where it stays when the van is cold or when stopping in normal driving. Someone suggested the oil pump, and I added motor honey, but no change in symptoms. There are no vacumn leaks evident. How do I keep the idle from sagging? Would this be a sensor issue?
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I have a 2000 f150 with 210000 miles. The truck wants to stall when coming to a stop. I have noticed this from a higher speed and more when at operating temp. The truck runs great and idles at a stop great, but when coming to the stop the rpms drop to300 or so then it catches itself and revs up. I have cleaned the maf sensor the iac and checked throttle body all seem to be in working order and no obvious vacuum leaks.
My power steering pump is going and it's time to change plugs, but don't believe these would only effect the truck at braking. Have heard maybe torque converter is stuck this does make sense cause usually happens after getting out of first gear. Would changing the fluid solve this or should i look at sensors? Fluid starting to turn slight brown probably been in there 80000 miles.
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