Camry :: 2010 2.5L I4 - Gradual Leak From Sensor?
Dec 31, 2015
Have been looking @ my 2010 2.5L I4 and there seems to be a gradual leak around this sensor just below the valve cover. What sensor this is, and how to fix the leak?
View 12 RepliesHave been looking @ my 2010 2.5L I4 and there seems to be a gradual leak around this sensor just below the valve cover. What sensor this is, and how to fix the leak?
View 12 RepliesOk try this. On your 2011-13 Elantra if your driving below 60 on backroads and the road slightly turns to the left or right when you get back to a straightaway does the wheel automatically center itself or will it stay turned in the direction you just slightly turned? My wheel stays turned in the direction of the turn and I have to manually move it back to go straight. I have a 2013 Elantra GLS Auto.
View 8 RepliesI just had an OBD code pulled on my 2010 Camry and it turns out that my Heated O2 sensor for Bank 1 Sensor 2 is failing. I'd rather do this myself if I can but I can't figure out where this thing is. Is this something I can access myself and swap out? Or does this need to be fixed by a mechanic?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Corolla 1.8L, the base model.
I recently had a check engine light, VSC off light (blinking) and traction control light come on. I took it to Autozone and had a p0037 code ring up for a new Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor (downstream). I believe I have found the correct sensor (located under car, approximately near drivers seat) and it looks simple to replace, aside from the fact that the wires go through the car body.
Can confirm that I have located the correct sensor? And if so, what is the best way to get to where the wires connect?
Is it located under the drivers seat? What should I do about the rubber grommet located under the car where the wires appear to pass through?
Still getting used to my 2010 2.4 Sonata>Seems hard to get gradual acceleration when I depress gas pedal,instead I get Jack rabbi t take offs ,I wonder if linkage needs to be adjusted.
View 12 RepliesI picked up my latest R back in April - 3 owner, 33K mile car - as far as I know no tune. The previous owner owned the car for the previous 9 years and kept it stock.
The issue: If the car sits for more than one day (I work form home so this happens a lot) upon initial start up it will start and idle at 800 RPM and then drop a little from there once warmed up. Now if the car sits for less than a day, it will cold start as it should - high idle then a gradual drop.
I've got a 2008 Mitsubishi lancer. I've noticed a gradual vibration coming from the front suspension. At first I could just hear it, but now I can feel it in my steering wheel and a little in my pedals. It doesn't vibrate when I accelerate, nor does it vibrate (too badly) when I brake, but when I'm holding the speed consistent, or letting off the accelerator is when I really feel it. I also feel it when I turn the wheel slightly to the left, but once I get past this (maybe 5 degree turn) threshold it stops vibrating. I was thinking a wheel bearing or CV joint, but wanted to confirm.
View 3 RepliesThe electric radiator fan motor in my 1992 Buick is begining to squeak. It's most noticeable during its gradual stop after shutting off the engine. Will WD40 or some other lubricant applied to its shaft remedy the problem? Or, will it be just a temporary fix before its inevitable failure?
View 5 Replies2001 F-350 7.3L / 147K... Lately my truck has a strange anomaly when I take off from a stop. A few seconds into a routine gradual acceleration the engine gets a little "boost" without changing anything on the accelerator. I typically take off from a stop as if an egg is under my foot. And then bam! It's as if I romp down on the gas pedal. Not a lot of increase in rpm's and acceleration, just a hint. BUT NOTICEABLE! Even my wife wondered why I was playing with the accelerator. And, it only does it that first time you start it and take off. I had the glow plugs replaced last week. And it has done it occasionally before but increasingly since. No other changes other than pulling codes.
View 1 RepliesWasn't there a TSB for this? I've searched Google and Vortex with nothing for the MKVI but I could swear I read something on this.
I am accumulating oil/grim right around the sensor and it's beginning to irritate me. I want to take her to the dealer but would rather know for sure of any possible TSB out there so I have something to reference.
I have been having a problem with an oil leak around this sensor port in my Jetta, I'm not really sure which sensor this is. The sensor itself is covered with a rubber hood that covers the connector, when I start the engine, it blows this hood back, revealing the blue plastic of the sensor.
I have a 1997 VW Jetta GT with the 2.0 liter A series gasoline engine. ,
So i have an exhaust leak that melted the wires on o2 sensor bank 1 sensor one. This put o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 into lean mode and i found this out last week. Made the appointment. Was gonna run some test and replace the o2s if needed. But this morning i go to leave for work and my coolant light comes on 50 feet up the road. I pull over look at my coolant. There was about an inch of coolant left in the tank. Roll back down the street turn the car off and leave it. Im thinking i blew my head gasket running lean. When i get back from work the coolants in the same spot so i jack the car up to see if i can find the coolant leak and i dont see anything. Drop the car back down and the coolant levels back to normal so im alittle lost on whats going on here.
Also after work before coolant level returned to normal i reved it up it blew a little white smoke then black. Nothing really dark. It was quite faint. And also the coolant in the tank would bubble from the back under rev when it was low. Nothing at idle. When coolant level returned. I didn't see any smoke at all and i was unable to check coolant.
I have a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee. One of the tire valves has a slow leak. I figured I could get a new valve. But, instead, the guy reminds me that the valve has the pressure sensor built in. He could put in a regular stem, but then the light on the instrument panel would never go out and I'm assuming I couldn't get through inspection like that.
View 17 RepliesI have been dealing with a oil leak for quite some time now, oil seeping from what appears to be around the cam sensor. About a year ago I pulled the cam sensor replaced the o rings that were cracked and split out figured that was my problem. drove it for another year continued to have same seeping oil leak. cleaned it up real good dyed the oil and checked again and seems to be same issue same spot around cam sensor. Pulled it again o rings are perfect but it seems as if that is where the leak is seeping from based off the uv dye I used. is there something else right around the cam sensor that I am missing that could be the cause? I have checked ipr, crank, dip stick, hpop cover, valve cover, glow plugs, a few other spots and have found no other leaks from any other than around that came sensor.
2006 F250 6.0 King Ranch
1999 f250, 280,000 miles. I use Power Service with every tank, oil changes every 3500. Had a few of the injectors changed several years ago after getting bad fuel. Tranny "built" when rebuilt, about 60,000 miles ago.
Truck starts and drives every time, no miss or rough idle, no smoke. Just not as much power. It downshifts sooner and really seems to resent towing my atv trailer. Where do I start ?
I have a code that just started popping up on my 2000 Yukon XL2500 with 93K. I know I have a spot on the side of the Muffler that was rotted out and patched by the previous owner. My question is would an exhaust leak that far back in the system throw off the O2 Sensor?
View 2 RepliesI think I've tracked my power steering leak to some type of sensor on the pressure line, close to where it connects to the steering box:
I assume this is a pressure sensor? I got no CEL or anything like that when the fluid had leaked down to the level that the pump started whining pretty badly though. As far as I can tell by looking at pictures, the parts store replacement pressure lines do not have this sensor, or any provision to connect a sensor to it: Advance Auto Parts: Power Steering Pressure Hose by Powercraft - Part 71878
I may just put a replacement line on there and leave the sensor plug hanging and see what happens...
I have some codes on my ranger 2000 here goes
P0141: o2 sensor heater circuit malfonction (bank 2 sensor 2 )
P0455: evaporative emission control system detected (large leak)
Now I will need to get that fixed cause I don't know where to look and what to look for ... For the leak I know there is a big crack on the plastic where the gas lid is could that be it ?
My check engine light says the primary 02 sensor is bad. Camry 4cy has 104000 miles. Do I need to use OEM or will the generic work? I hear they hide a way to shut the check engine light off and sometimes the 02 sensor isn't even bad!
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Camry Hybrid with ~150k miles, 4-cyl engine and last week the water temp gauge starting fluctuating erratically...going from extremely hot to cold and vice versa. It eventually tripped the check engine light and autozone said it was p0117 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit Low Input. At one point the engine was really shaking the whole car. I haven't driven the car as a result.
I have ordered a new ECT sensor and it should arrive this week. the problem is I can't find where the sensor is located... I have looked all over this forum, google, the internet, nothing. I have looked in a Chilton's manual but it doesn't have a diagram.
It's time to go thru emissions testing, but I'm getting a P0031. New A/F Sensor (Denso 234-9041) did not fix it. California Emissions compliant.
2003 Camry, 2.4 16-valve
Car runs good, MPGs same as always, 26/27 and 30+
Old sensor has no resistance or continuity thru any of the pins.
New sensor has 2.5/2.8 ohms res between blk/blk pins. (? +B and HT ?)
200K miles, has burned oil since I got it w/ 140K. Have had MIL light on for two years, but did not care until now. Previously had diff DTC's, not P0031.
Swapped EFI relay with Headlight relay, no change.
Checked all fuses, all OK.
Cleaned ground on engine block and fender, no change.
Checking voltage at engine connector, sensor disconnected, car running, I'm seeing
Orange 3.31 = Blue Sensor wire (AF+ ?)
White 3.017 = White Sensor wire (AF- ?)
Blk/Red 3.827 = Blk Sensor wire (HT ?)
Blk/Wht 13/14 = Blk Sensor wire (+B ?)
I cannot find FREE online wiring diagrams anywhere. I have searched TN exhaustively, have not found anyone who actually fixed this problem, or provided a link to a wiring diagram.
So, which wire is the ground ? Should it show 0 voltage ? Is it controlled by ECM ? How do I test the ground continuity ?
Where is ECM located ? I want to unplug and re-plug.