Camry :: 2010 2.5 4cyl LE Engine Lacking Power
Sep 14, 2015
I have a 2010 Camry Le with the 2.5 4cyl. What I'm trying to diagnose started in the last 2 weeks, the engine just seems like it's lost some power overall but there is no unusual sounds coming from the engine and it has not triggered and codes. I have checked the simple stuff like the air filter and plugs but am not sure where to turn next.
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Why my 2010 auto trans 4cyl Camry often feels like someone is applying the foot brake when I take my foot off the accelerator? Is it the auto trans downshifting? When I feel it occur and slip it into neutral, it releases and I coast freely again. It's really annoying sometimes especially as I've been driving a 1995 Camry auto for the past 15 years which does not do this.
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2010 camry 4 cylinder, Heater/ac air flow control not working. Only blows air to defroster which it has no temp control.
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2003 Camry 2.4L 4cyl
I noticed my engine light turned on. I went to Autozone to hook the car up to the computer. The computer printed out the code P0420. My coolant temp is normal. What can this code mean. The car has over 126,000 miles.
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After a long trip from Houston to Dallas, my vehicle started to ride rough and eventually die on idle. It seems to idle fine, but then die after the first minute. I am getting code P306 and others all dealing with random misfires and misfires on ALL cylinders. The troubleshooting steps I have taken so far to no avail are:
(1) Replaced spark plugs with pre-gapped iridium
(2) Checked ignition coils
(2) Checked all vacuum hoses and air intake leaks
(3) Changed air filter(not a big deal)
(4) Removed and cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner thoroughly
(5) Checked the intake manifold for leaks and did not find any.
(6) Computer PCM checked for updates and issues at dealer
The dealer said it needed new fuel injectors, which seemed kind of fishy due to the following symptom:
The car runs GREAT at highway speeds, but it is unable to maintain an idle for an extended period of time and dies due to misfires. I hear a chugging in the engine sometimes.
Due to these symptoms, I self diagnosed this as a fuel regulator?
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00' 7.3 is acting a little strange lately. i was towing a 15 foot trailer the other day for about 250 miles that wasn't all that heavy and my foot felt like it was very close to the floor. I had it to the floor and the truck would only go 60. now even without that trailer its better but still i feel as if i have to really put my foot down into it to speed up. if i go all the way to the floor in o/d it'll downshift and start speeding up but very very slowly then i run out of pedal and am at the floor, a lot slower than before. Before i wouldn't get to the floor and id already be moving pretty good. but now i gotta keep it pretty much 3/4 way down and keep it there to get up to speed and stay there. truck has 253k no tuner or programmer just 6637 intake and an exhaust, ww2. leveled on 35's. the tranny isn't slipping or at least doesn't seem to be. She doesn't shift perfect but its not anything crazy bad for stock with 253k on it. maybe something wrong with the actual pedal? or hopefully not but maybe the trans or motor , or maybe a sensor or something?
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I have a 2000 Honda Civic Ex automatic 225k miles on it. Recently replaced spark plug and spark plug wires. Just had an oil change and an inspection done; they found an oil leak in the oil pan (oil pan cover gasket needs replaced). I have a severe lack in power, meaning it doesn't have the get-up-n-go it should. Doesn't shift until it hits 3.5 rpms, idles pretty loud, and noticed earlier today that there is a rattling that seems to be coming from front drivers side(could of been the road, adding it in for good measure) but that didn't happen till i hit 65. The coolant tank has a black grime in it, and from what i understand that's from deteriorating hoses(?). My question is this: What could be causing this loss of power?
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Just picked up my 02 Camry, I drove it up from Fla, after driving it about 250 miles or so the CEL comes on, car drives fine, getting 34mpg at 78mph Stopped for gas unhook battery cable (reset the computer) light is now off Drive the car about 250 miles or so no light, stop shut car off, once we restart the car & get going about 5 miles it pops on again? Drives fine, runs fine, drove until next fuel stop and same procedure all over again light stays off for 250 miles or so then as soon as I shut off and restart it pops on about 5 miles after I get going? The car has 62k miles on it, good clean oil & temp never get hot at all.
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I have a 2005 4Cyl Camry - transmission replaced under warranty at 89K. The car now has 150K and I have been having a couple tranny issues recently.
Most alarming - When the car is warm and you shift from Park to Drive the car hesitates for 3-5 seconds before it slams into Drive.
Now the car threw a CEL about a month ago. Took into the Toyota and they took a look at it. Said the code was related to 3 Shift Sensor Solenoids, so they cleared the codes and took the car for a test drive and said "all clear" car is fine and there's nothing wrong.
I'm wondering if one of the sensors is going bad and it just isn't throwing a code yet.
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My mother's 2002 Camry with about 60K on it has been starting hard lately. No check engine light has come on. I did a full tune up hoping the problem would be solved but no luck. The car cranks a lot before it fires. First thing in the morning it cranks more than it should, starts, and then she gets a little smoke out of it. The rest of the day it cranks a lot before firing. I'm assuming that it is a fuel system issue because if she turns the key to the run position and waits a few seconds, the car starts up normally. Sounds to me like the fuel is draining back. What controls the fuel from draining back to the tank in a 2002 model with a 4cyl, the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, or something else?
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I am after to find which USB cable and software can be used on my wife's ... 5/05 v6 Santa Fe to check the error codes. The car is revving up and down when cold and lacking power when warmed up, I'm guessing it's a sensor but I need to find which one.
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I've got a couple of issues with a 2002, 2.7ltr v6 santa fe first off when taking off steady the car runs fine but taking off quickly it seems to lack power until it hits around 3000-3500rpm est then it takes off fine and all threw the upper rev range the auto seams sluggish but I'm not shore as I haven't driven another 2.7ltr as a benchmark. No error codes are present.
The second issue I brought a new keyless remote for the car and looked up a thread on how to program this they had reference to a set switch behind the fuse box behind the lower dash panel I went looking and found what I think is the remote receiver it has what is like a antenna cable plugged into it but no set-off switch at all is there any way to get this new remote programed or will it have to be done threw dealer or is there something I would be missing?
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07 camry 4cyl high oil consumption doing oil changes every 5k. Car has 61000 miles on it. I had to put 2 quarts of oil just before oil changes, oil level was still below low, so car burns 3 qrt of oil every 5k. What should i do?
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Just purchased a 2002 Camry for my son to drive to school. The car has 275,000 highway miles on it The car was well maintained by the previous owner. I have heard that the timing chain should last about 300,000 miles. However, the owner's manual does not mention any replacement interval. Since the cars mileage is approaching 300k, I'm wondering if the chain needs to be replaced. The engine runs great. However, I do hear a bit of a rattle from the timing chain pully area. I replaced the valve cover gasket and inspected the chain but didn't notice anything unusual. I have mainly driven import cars with timing belts and not sure if this rattling noise is normal for a Toyota with a chain or an early sign of needing replacement.
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So I recently went out to start my car one morning and it decided to just crank and not start. A few days prior to that I was on my way into work and it shut off on me 4 times but started back up every time, it was only 5 degrees Fahrenheit that morning and I was under 1/4 tank, so just thinking I got some bad fuel or moisture in there I ignored it and went on about my business until it didn't start that morning. Since then I've searched on here and found a couple people that had similar issues and I tried what they had done to fix theirs, this is everything from trying the second key and on.
There is no power at the fuel pump except for the sending unit portion, and I did check with someone cranking the engine, it just has no power... So I thought, relay...well apparently they don't have a fuel pump relay on this car? It's all controlled by the ECU? I decided to hook up my scanner to see if there were any codes getting thrown, this would show if it was CPS or the like, nope, no codes at all showed up. I'm completely lost at this point, and have resorted to buying a subscription to all data as I used them in the past and had luck, well this time they've got nothing for me that I've found useful. I'm about to send the car off to the first person that's willing to pay a fair price. Glad it's warm enough to get the summer car out!
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My car has 219k miles and has been very loud and when i turn it on the rpm meter goes to 3 and gradually car quiets down and needle comes down to 1. While i drive the steering wheel vibrates too. I took it to the mechanic i was told that timing chain needs replacement as its about time. I was under the impression that timing chains do not need replacement.
The steering wheel vibrates (shakes) it makes light clicking sounds too. I have not been able to diagnose the problem by myself. I think these two things may not be related but engine is really loud. Does timing chain needs replacement? and if it does what else along with it should be replaced?
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My camry won't start I got a new battery and a new starter (they are both good) and it sill wont start.
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Our Camry has about 105,000 miles on it. Car is well maintained, I change the oil every 3 k or so and the air filter is clean (although it is not a factory air cleaner- it is a K&N filter). Other maint is done as specified by the warranty/maintenance book although the car is long out of factory warranty.
We occasionally pull a 800 lb pop-up tent trailer and just got back from the Sierras after driving up some pretty tall passes with it. Car ran great, got great mileage, temp gauge rock steady. I say this because it is probably the most stressful driving we do with this car. While we live in the city we are retired and the car is not exposed to constant heavy traffic, dust or snow. Mileage seems to have remained pretty steady, even with the hesitation.
Got home from the mountains and a couple days later the car began to hesitate when under load. The hesitation shows up as a slightly uneven surge when the car is going up a hill or when it is cold. About 20 mph the car seems to momentarily stop accelerating, then evens out and upwards of 40 mph I don't feel it at all. The hesitation is getting a bit worse over the last couple days in frequency, but still isn't felt on the freeway. I don't know if the hesitation is related to the recent trip to the Sierras.
I hooked up my OBD II computer to see if there are any DTCs, none shown, even left the computer on the car for a day to see if anything might pop up when the car surged, but the computer isn't seeing trouble codes.
My other thought was "got some bad gas", ran the tank out and put in new gas, fuel injector cleaner and dryer. With one new tank it hasn't worked. I haven't replaced the fuel filter yet.
Tried driving the car in 1st and 2nd gear only and found that the hesitation isn't dependent on what gear I'm in, but seems to be more about the speed and load. In neutral, slowly revving the engine, I don't detect anything that sounds or looks like a hesitation (just watching the tach).
Been reading about problems some Toyotas have had with unintended acceleration but I'm not sure that is my problem. I have to admit I didn't know that my Camry was "drive by wire" and maybe I don't understand it enough. Maybe a "reflash" might be needed?
My sense is that I should go ahead and do the next major maintenance items including plugs, but if I had a bad plug or plug coil wouldn't that show up as a Diagnostic Trouble Code item?
Could this be a bad injector or fuel filter? Wouldn't they produce a DTC? How do I break down the next steps?
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I have a 2004 Toyota Camry 4cyl. Vehicle had ran hot. Performed the procedure and sent the head to the machine shop for the works. Replaced the timing chain and the oil pump chain along with the tensioner, rails and sprockets. Performed the timing chain procedure and even questioned the information about the counterclockwise rotation against the figures of clockwise,, but aligned all of the links to the dots on cams, crank, oil pump and crank. Vehicle spins tries to crank but, floods all of the plugs, no codes, good compression , fire and even hand rotated the crank to check all of the timing marks and all looks fine.
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My 97 Subaru sport has trouble starting when left until cold, it always finally starts, but wont rev at all until its has been running for 20-30 seconds.
Other symptoms include....Once running it also seems to be lacking power across the low rev range. but then seems fine above 4k rpm.
If i get stuck in stationary traffic for a while, the check engine light comes on and i lose all power, it hardly pulls its self off to a start. But if i were to rev the engine and let it drop back to idle a couple of times the light goes off and i get power back to set off.
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My mom has a 2011 GL Hatchback about 20k km's... She decided to take my car this Saturday without telling me and I was stuck with hers.... All of a sudden the check engine comes on and at idle there is like a bogging going own. (Shaky putt-putt-putt-putt) early acceleration is lacking power and it smooths out at higher rpm's.
I can do minor things on my own like plugs and brakes, I would love to be able to get it running smooth again.
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