I get a really low idle, almost to the point of the car stalling, when the A/C is on. Usually it's only when I first start her up but sometimes I notice it at stop lights after driving for a while. The idle goes back to normal when I shut the A/C off every time.
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 2009 Camry LE (4 cylinder) about a week ago. It's only got 10K miles on it. Ever since I got the car, I've noticed a very slight vibration when stopped and in gear. It does this when the engine is cold and warm. It only does this when I am in gear with my foot on the brake and stopped. I still have warranty, should I bring it in to the dealer? Is there a simple fix for this? Or is this normal?
View 14 RepliesI have been searching and it seems I am not the only one who has a rough idle with the I4. It is very rough even without the A/C on. I can see the dash shaking, I can feel it in the steering wheel, brake pedal, seat, and arm rest.
The dealership cleaned my throttle body and MAP sensor (They forgot to put one of the screws back in the MAP). This is the third time they have cleaned them. When they returned it to me I told them to keep it until it is fixed. So they took it back in and decided that it might be the motor mounts so they went ahead and replaced them aside from the dogbone or whatever it's called.
When they returned the vehicle it was still having the same issue, they told me that its just the nature of the beast and to live with it. Well my neighbor has the exact same car, and yes it does have a SLIGHT vibration in gear but nothing like mine. I can't stand this car I really wish I would have bought something else.
I currently have 70,000 miles and for the last three oil changes I have been running Full Synthetic in hopes it would work but it has made no difference.
Just a note I have had multiple problems with this particular dealer lying to me. They even ripped up my passenger seat and would not fix it they said it was pre existing. I am over the seat I don't care anymore but I am tired of the rough idle. I plan on taking into another dealer but I am hesitant because they told me if there is no real problem I will have to pay in full for the diagnostic.
I was doing a tune up of my 09 camry with an 2.4L engine due to a rough idle problem i have been having , and I noticed a lot of orange colored dust in one of the 4 spark plug tubes, I mean a lot of it while the other 3 were dust free. I tried my best to clean it out and inspected the spark plugs all seems to be fine. What could be the cause of the dust?
View 9 RepliesI have a 95 Impreza with the 1.8 motor, this thing is hesitating when you give it too much gas at once. I got the car this way so I don't know when it started. I put in new plugs, the wires tested ok, and the ignition coil tested ok too. The only code the engine was throwing was 21 the coolant temp sensor and that has been replaced. I also put in new o2 sensor, maf sensor has been cleaned. Checked for vacuum leaks and there are no leaks, also did a compression test and got 180 on all 4. Where to look next, I don't want to just replace sensors without knowing what is wrong. The car did run better with the tps sensor unplugged but still running very bad.
View 2 Replies2002 Camry 4 cly was running great. All the sudden looses power, stalls (won't idle), engine light came on, when I held gas pedal at 1000 rpm engine rev's 1000 - 1400 rpm. Autozone trouble codes P0300, P0301, P0302, P0171, P0420. Car barely runs, getting worse quickly. I also smelled hot metal when I pulled into driveway, exhaust tail pipe was superhot.
View 7 RepliesI have had no problems with my Camry until one day it didn't crank or start. I first thought either battery or starter. Well the battery tested at 100%, alternator.
View 2 RepliesPurchased a 2009 XLE Toyota Camry V6 on 11/15/2011 with 13,562 miles. Noticed a vibration that starts around 65 mph, the faster you go the more noticeable the vibration. Made an appointment for the selling dealer to address the vibration. Dealer balanced four tires however this is what was noted on the invoice.'vibration from rear end at 65 and up' (my comments when dropping off the car). Comments from servicing dealer 'balance all 4 tires - may feel some vibration-tires choppy'. Where would you suggest I start? Who should I talk to at the dealer? Am I in a position to have them replace the tires? I have contacted the salesperson to keep her abreast of the situation. Current mileage 15,100.
Tire Make and Model: Sumitomo HTR T4 - the tires appear brand new.
Tire shop balanced (said the selling dealer did not do a very good job balancing the tires), rotated and performed an alignment. Tire shop stated the front passenger tire is cupped. Manager figures the previous owner did not do any maintenance on the OEM tires so the selling dealer installed new tires on the car due to premature wear. The vibration is better but still obvious and annoying. Said there is a possibility the cupping will go away as more miles are accrued on the tires, but until then the ride will not be smooth.
I have a 2010 corolla s 1.8 liter. A couple months I started having a rough idle. It will drop below 600 for a second right at the point of stopping and then raise back up. While sitting at a light it will drop down and shake and then go back up. Had a couple people look at it including Toyota and they say it's normal. It did not do it a couple months ago so I know it's not normal.
View 12 RepliesI'm looking to sell my 2009 sonata soon. I had an engine light and saw p0017 a couple weeks ago, accompanied by a tapping noise from the engine that speeds up as the engine does. On Friday I figured I'd take it for an oil change before getting a price on it from carmax, but didn't wanna bother spending a lot to fix whatever was causing the code/noise. My Last oil change was August 2015, 6k miles ago. Jiffy lube said the oil was low and clearly it had been a long time since I had a change (time, yes, but not so many miles, but guilty I guess) so they recommended an engine flush. I said ok. Drove the car home from them and all seemed fine.
Went to drive it Saturday night and it shakes and the lights flicker and I didn't seem to get any power, I was afraid to drive it and wasn't even sure I'd get enough power. My battery does this weird thing sometimes where it's almost dead in the morning (no lights on and no parasitic draw, I've checked) and if I try a few times to start, with each try it gets better until it starts. So I charged it with a trickle charger and tried again but same problem. After this started it was also giving me a p0035 and p0135. I had it towed to a mechanic and they said something big time busted with the motor and it needs to be replaced. He said he didn't even pull it into the garage, he just did something in the lot.
I'm just looking to get it into good enough shape for carmax to give me more than a hundred bucks. I just decided to see if I could hobble it to another mechanic for a second opinion. It's still doing the same thing, and if I let it idle the engine dies after maybe 10 or 15 seconds, but if I gas it right away it doesn't Rev up fast but eventually does get up there and then it runs mostly ok, albeit noisier, now with a lower pitch noise accompanying the tap. The p0135 and p0035 are gone but now I still see the p0017 along with a p0170. Am I actually screwed or could it be something else? Maybe a bad alternator or battery or spark plug? Something that could have been fouled up by the engine flush?
Have a 2009 Elantra 4 door, manual. It is at 52000 kilometers and recently in the spring changed the oil, I run Full synthetic.
Lately its been really hot and the following problem occurs, no engine light or anything. But if I start the car cold it idles no problem, nice an smooth, If I go out for a 30min drive, come back and let it idle its rough. Not crazy rough but its rougher than it should be. I have no power issues, it pulls well, never stalls. If I shut it down and wait a few hours, engine still hot, but not super hot, start her up and runs well, no rough idle.
Go out for a 15-20 min drive and park it, idles rough. I checked the usual, wires, plugs, pvc valve seems good. Engine temp is normal also. I did some searches on the site but come up mostly with cold idle issues, not great when cold not so when hot.
I have a 2009 Accent and after about 20 minutes of driving it started running really rough and my check engine light came on. It's worse at an idle (feels like it's going to stall out) but isn't quite as bad when I rev it. My first thought is water in the gas tank since we've had a lot of rain for the past week or so and I filled it up a day or two ago.
View 2 RepliesI have 114,00 miles on my car. Plugs changed and decarbonization done at 99,000 as well as ECM reprogram or update ($99). Anyway, when my car sits overnight and starts it is getting a rough high idle until I feather the pedal or give it a minute or 2 and it is fine. It is warm now in the 70's and this just started. I had it to the dealer for oil change and they looked at it. There are no codes, they recommended changing the plugs and doing a decarb again. So I told them if I need plugs there is something wrong, Iridium OEM were installed.
Anyway, they suggested changing the throttle body since it has new sensors. I have have the TPS replaced before when engine was surging. They told me there are 2 sensors and one could be bad in throttle body. I don't get it, I use Hyundai air filter now and change every 15,000 miles and get oil changes regularly and they use Quaker State Synthetic blend. I am wondering if maybe I have a faulty PCV? I don't think that has been changed. Don't even know what the interval is. Previously I was told there was none, but I disagree.
What would cause me to get carbon build up like they keep telling me? I don't want trial and error and throw parts and money at it since there are no codes. I was going to drive it til it throws a code. I do highway driving in suburban area, mostly 65 mph. The car runs good, still the intermittent hard downshift when slowing down but nothing like before the tranny was replaced.
I just imported an Toyota Belta (Yaris) 2009. When starting it after it's been siting for a while (i.e. over night) it almost always doesn't start on the first attempt, but will on the second, recording attached.
Also, it has a rough idle. Today it idled down so low when we were at a stoplight it sounded like it was going to stall.
We've changed the fuel filter, spark plugs, and cleaned the injectors and throttle body. The mechanic has run diagnostics which didn't indicate anything other than rough idle.
09 tiguan that was bought in august of this year as a certified pre owned and has a warranty on it until 60k miles or 2014. Recently there has been some issues with the car stalling out and sometimes having a very low rough idle and then the idle will pick up and the car will surge slightly then it will be fine for a while. I have my suspicions that it is because this is my fiance's car and she has been putting mid grade gas in the car lately. Also we cannot get the fuel door to open now is there any tricks on getting it open?
View 3 Replies2010 F150 4.6L 2V, 50k miles. Have recently developed an issue with an extremely rough idle with the AC on and trans in Drive. If in park, the idle is high enough that it is much less noticeable. I have cleaned my throttle body, and MAF sensor ? After this , I disconnected battery for about 30mins and let the computer reset. After a long drive today, it is still happening. This engine has the servo controlled throttle body, and therefore no IAC valve that I can identify. I would assume that the idle increase necessary for the AC to be on would come from the servo controlled throttle body itself with no need for an external IAC. The idle in Drive with the AC on will drop to 500 RPM or less and it is very rough. Is there a procedure for a recalibration of the servo throttle body that I could try ?
View 14 RepliesJust installed a new alternator today, and the motor (4 cyl.) idles rough when the AC is on. The battery was disconnected during the installation, but nothing else was touched. Is this caused by the new alternator itself, or because the battery was disconnected for a while? Should I set the idle speed a little higher or what?
View 3 RepliesTitle tells the story....also it seems that sometimes it does this when the brake pedal is depressed -- since it is a manual 5-speed, tho., often the brake pedal is not depressed at stoplights, etc. So, 2003, four-cyl., as I said, manual trans.
It's my husband's. He has been gone. I am driving the car for him while he is away. The car seems to have had this rough/low idle (according to the tach) with the A/C on for at least a couple of years. Idles O.K. if the A/C is not on.
He returns tonight. And, I have to pick him up at the Portland, Oregon Airport.
So my 2002 Camry XLE V6 with ~132,000 miles has a little bit of a rough idle. It sounds like it's "breathing". It'll be rough for a second, smooth for a second, rough, smooth. It's not super rough where my steering wheel is really vibrating, but definitely noticeable. The RPM hovers around 500-600 and doesn't really fluctuate. On Sunday, the following was done with a friend:
- All 6 spark plugs with DENSO SK20R11
- OEM PCV valve, grommet, and hose
- OEM Air Filter
- OEM Cabin Filter
- OEM plenum gasket
We didn't do the head gasket and manifold gasket to save time and there was absolutely no oil on the coils or plugs. The car was very well maintained by the previous owner and by me since I got it at ~102,000 miles.
The car seems to surge sometimes. I'm not sure if that is the right word. Say if I turn left up a hill and hit the gas, the engine RPM will kind of surge up and then it'll shift. It's audibly noticeable. It's not smooth, but maybe it's just because it's a hill, I'm not sure
The idle seems about the same since before we did the plugs, which I thought doing the plugs would work. It almost seems like it might be worse and the MPG might be worse, but that may just be in my head.
Could it be the front motor mount? Maybe we should have cleaned the throttle body while we had it open.
Basically when the car is in D and when i am stopped with the brakes pressed on at a stop sign or a red light, the car starts vibrating and i can see the the rpm going down and then receiving back up and going down again something when the car is in R. its a 2009 toyota corolla le 90k miles. when the headlights are on, the rpm stays high so the car does not vibrate or anything. other than this the car runs perfectly fine.
View 1 RepliesLately I would be stopped at a red light and my rpms would drop to 600. And when I turn my headlights on the rpms go up and the rough idle stops. Should I check it out if so what should I check? My corolla has 49.5k.
View 1 Replies