I recently purchased a 2009 XLE V6 and love it! I've also owned a 2008 Corolla S and 1994 Camry SE V6.
I do have a question however. In the 2009, both front doors make a very loud clunk when closed as if a very large piece has broken off on the inside.
I was pulling out of the driveway and heard really loud snapping noise. Jumped out of the car expecting to see damage, but everything looked fine. I didn't drive over anything or hit anything.
Now, I notice that when my left front wheel goes over bumps and potholes there's this metallic rattle. Took it my mechanic right after and we both looked the front suspension over. Everything looks good. It does drive fine.
While not exactly driving me nuts it is a bit annoying, adds wear to painted metal surfaces and generally makes the truck less nice feeling. The front doors on my '11 F150 both have a very pronounced squeaking of the little rubber flap on the corner by the side mirrors. I'm not sure if they are misshapen or what but this has been happening for a long time now. Easily, if temporarily, cured by a shot of silicone spray but still. It MUST be an issues with those little rubber flaps, maybe replacement would actually solve this issue since the silicone only lasts until a good rain or wash...
View 1 RepliesIs it possible to make doors automatic up and down on all 4 windows? I have a 2003 toyota camry le 2.4L 4 cylinder. My driver door is automatic down only not up so I was wondering if I can make that automatic up also and to make the other 3 doors auto down and up wondering how much it would cost me to do that since I like to open the windows on a nice breezy but not cold summer heat.
Is this the right LED kit for my camry? The reason I am asking is I see no reviews. [URL] What do they mean by DRL LED Projector Headlights. Is it the white lights? I don't like the yellow light on my camry(standard lights)
Our 1995 Toyota Camry shakes and makes a loud rattling noise while driving, but not every time I drive the car. The rear seat of the vehicle, especially feels the shake. The rear tires have been replaced and aligned, but still the shake/noise persists. Our mechanic has not been able to recreate the noise. It has occurred in the winter and summer with or without the heater and/or air conditioning on or off. Sometimes the shaking is so severe, I am afraid of what will happen, but I will stop at the next light, sit for a minute or two, and when the light turns green, the car goes, no shaking involved - everything is fine. I typically drive in town so speed is only 45 mph or less. The car has only 137,000 miles, and is well-maintained.
View 2 RepliesThe car: 2012 Tiguan SE 4mo (auto)
The noise: there is a loud pop/cluck/knock from the front drivers side footwell, can sometimes be felt in the pedals
When it occurs: Most frequently it occurs on deceleration. Letting off the gas, there is a slight delay then the noise. It doesn't happen every time. The intensity of it is very sporadic and unpredictable. In stop and go traffic, it is typically the worst, gently accelerate, let off the gas, loud clunk. During other normal driving, accelerate up to normal (55mph) speed, let off gas, quieter clunk, intermittent. Infrequently it makes the noise when I shift into reverse. I can also hear it faintly when i start the car sometimes.
There seems to be very little correlation to vehicle speed and the noise. It is typically louder at low.
is there a way to make the center LED brake light brighter? (such as replacing them with brighter red LEDs or something?)
I was following an identical 2009 Camry today and never realized how dim those center brake light LEDs were.... the car in the next lane was a Chevy something and its center LED brake lights were retina-burning bright!
2.2l '03 Olds Alero, 89k miles
My car has an unsettling noise. It is a loud clunk in the front end that can be felt. It only happens when turning right (just past where the wheels are aligned) when going forward. I believe it also happens when backing out of a spot to the left. It is only one solid clunk. This clunk isn't always loud, and can be subtle. If I do a figure eight, the clunk will be the loudest with the first wheel turn to the right, then will either get quieter or disappear all together. Let the car sit for a while, and the first turn will be the loudest.
Things that have been tried:Full Strut/shock assembly replacement on both sides of the front suspension.Sway bar link replacement on both sides.Both front control arms, complete with ball joints and bushings have been replaced.
Possibilities I haven't changed or on the list to examine/replace:
-Sway bar bushings
-Wheel bearings
-CV Joints
-Engine mounts
-Tie rod ends
What should I be looking at first? Is there something I am missing? It's been to the mechanics a few times. For a week after the control arms and sway bar links were replaced it was ok, or dull enough not to hear. Now it's back as loud as before.
So after a few months of having these springs on the car I noticed that as of recently there is a loud CLUNK coming from the front shock area. This specifically occurs in the morning while backing up out of the driveway, after the car has been sitting for a long time. This happens at low speed as soon as i turn the wheel to align with the street. To make matters worst, there seems to be a more persistent noise coming from the rear whenever i go over any sort of rough surface, almost as if something is loose . I took it to my local VW to see if they could replicate the noises and they did. I did not mention I had springs on the car (VWR), should I have ? What could be causing these issues?
View 12 RepliesWe have a 2009 Matrix, 68000 miles. automatic transmission has a loud clunk when down shifting on a hill. Has only happened a few times and cant seem to make it happen. Am really concerned what this might be.
View 5 RepliesI am experiencing a loud clunk sound at the end of the extension cycle. This is on the driver side and it appears to be associated with the back hinge assembly. Is there an adjustment for the length of travel? There appears to be a slight amount of play if I pull up on the aft end of the board. There is zero play in the front hinge on the driver side or in both front and back on hinges on the passenger side.
View 3 RepliesI know there is an Option to adjust the beeping sound when Lock or Unlock Doors (I tried that already). But Is that possible to make the Beeping sound really loud..I mean loud like honking the Horn. Know what I'm talking about?
On the 2001 Nissan Xterra, when I Lock the door ..sound like the horn.
I am in the process of fixing the front end clunk on my 2009 Azera. Clunk is coming mostly from the front right. So far I have replaced the Strut, Strut mount and top control arm. Still same problem.
View 4 RepliesMy dome light stays on and green when my doors are closed and the door button is pressed. They light up bright white and normal in use but don't completely turned off unless I unpress the door button...
View 3 RepliesThe map lights in my 2011 Sonata GLS just started having a problem. They stay on when the switch is set to Door, even when all of the doors are closed. They'll turn off when I turn it to Off and on when I turn it to On. It just started the other day, and the only unusual thing that's happened recently is my brother used my car to jump start his dead battery.
View 22 RepliesInterior lights are sometimes staying on for 30 minutes after all doors have been closed. Thought it was the back hatch, but now seems to be random. I've cleaned the latches and lubricated with no luck. What else could be causing this?? A relay, computer.
2004 6.0 diesel Limited Excursion 4x4
My buddies 01 Ex will shut off the dome light after a short time with any or all the doors open. My 02 Ex will never shut the dome light out unless all doors are closed.
I guess I'm headed for the override switch but wanted to confirm before if I did that there wasn't an issue with something other component.
When making turns and occasionally during slowing and accelerating, a klunk or pop sound comes from the front of the vehicle. It is a F-150 STX 2011 2WD shortbed with 16,000 miles. Engine is 5.0 with 6 speed auto. Previos owner had (before returning to stock) put a lowering kit in, headers back exhaust, intake, tuner, etc. Truck is butchered a bit from pos previous owner. Front end components have all been checked, bolts torqued. Even the cab mounts have been checked. The only thing that can be seen that might contribute is the cat crossover supports have been hacked off.
View 1 RepliesI have Toyota Camry 2009 . My automatic lock doors stopped working at all. But it was long process, first all passengers doors sometimes opened, sometimes closed(I mean button on the doors didn’t open or close doors, remote control also didn’t open or close doors). Then they stopped function. 1 month later drivers door stopped working too. Now I can use only old fashion way. I made my research and I think I have to replace body ECU because it response for automatic door locks(but it cost a lot). What it could be?
View 7 RepliesSeveral times now I have found that the courtesy lights stay ON after all the doors are closed, and the dash switch is indeed off. This has caused the battery to drain.
I have opened and closed all doors numerous times and the light won't go off. I can't seem to find where the door switches are so that I can inspect them.
The last time this happened I was forced to remove the fuse, then the next day I put the fuse back in and the lights operated correctly.
I had a problem with my door ajar light always being on, I was able to find out that it was in the sensor for the back glass and was able to fix it. But now when I cut the explorer off and remove the keys the dome light comes on instantly even if no doors are opened and the lock/unlock button on the driver door won't work. However if I manually turn off the dome light my lock/unlock button starts working properly. Also if I do not manually turn the light of with the roll switch the light will stay on until the computer kills the power to it about 10 mins later. What could cause this??
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