Camry :: 2009 Toyota Unable To Start - Light On Rear Windshield Defroster Blinking
Mar 23, 2014
First time I'm having an issue with my Toyota Camry 2009 model.
See video: [URL] .....
I'm wondering if this is a starter issue because the battery seems to be fine (can turn on radio, lights are working). The strange thing i noticed was that the light on the rear windshield defroster was blinking. I haven't turned that on in months.
Also, is this covered under warranty ? I bought the extended warranty when i purchased the vehicle in 2008. If i'm not mistaken I'm still covered under it. Is there a place (online) where i could check my extended warranty period ?
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I have a couple of things going on with my 2014 Toyota Camry. My car was in a recent rear end collision and I noticed the other day that my rear window defroster is no longer working. I waited 15 to 20 minutes and still nothing. The side mirror defrosters work fine. One button turns on both my rear and side mirror defrosters. The extent of the rear damage did not go past the trunk lid. They did replace the lid, but I'm not sure why that would make a difference. The rear window was not replaced. There was also some quarter panel damage underneath that required welding. It was working fine before the body work and now it's not working. Would could be the likely cause? I'd rather fix it myself if it's quick, rather than spending time taking it back tot he body shop.
The other problem...I was on a road that had a drop off on my passenger side. The lane slightly narrowed for some odd reason for just for a few feet. The front right side tire went off road and the front of my car hit the pavement pretty hard. I couldn't see any damage underneath, but of course that doesn't mean there isn't any. When I was driving to work this morning I could hear a humming noise that only got louder as I drove faster. It wasn't a continuous hum. You could hear a break in between hums but the breaks were more frequent the faster I drove. I'm not too sure what that is either? A wheel bearing?
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Now that the weather has gotten very cold, I used the rear windshield defroster a couple of times this week. The smell that it emits is absolutely disgusting, I had to turn it off. The front defroster isn't much better. What could be causing it? Also the rear defroster, when working, defrosts the window in a "V" shape, meaning the center is clear but the sides and top/bottom are still frosted. I have a 2014 GLS.
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I just bought a used car with tinting film on the rear windshield that has gone bad. Is it possible to remove the film without destroying the defroster and antenna wires on the glass? If one damages the wires, is there any way to fix them?
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I just purchased a used 2010 Toyota Corolla with Airbag Light ON (not blinking). Yes car was in an accident, but Air Bags did not deployed as per the seller. It needs to re-calibrate by Dealer.
As a novice, and avid Toyota person, since it's a good deal I decided to take the car with the airbag lights on. I have seen on youtube, the cause is likely the spiral cable.
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I have 2006 - Toyota Camry LE and its AC light starts blinking in few seconds as soon as I start it. What could possibly be the cause of this issue?
I searched for Magnetic clutch relay for 2006 Camry, but could not find any in Auto parts dealer. Can it be Cabin filter?
Where can be the issue and where can I find the correct part?
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I have an 09 Camry LE with about 59k miles on it and I just noticed today that When I turn my car on the maintenance required light blinks. But as soon as I put the car in drive it goes away, and does not return when I put it in park again.
I know all of your dash lights should come on at start up to show you that they work. But they all go off and that one remains flashing. I never looked at it before to know whether or not it's always been that way. Also when I first turn on my car, it idles at about 1.5k-2k rpm's. But if I keep my foot on the break and put it in drive then park again it sits at 1k or below. Is this normal? If not what should I be checking out?
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I am unable to get fuel into the fuel tank. the reserve light keeps blinking even after several gallons of fuel has been poured in. Now the battery has gone off and the car is not moving at all.
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I have a volkswagen jetta glx vr6.Today my key wont turn (unable to crank engine) and the car won't detect my key (no remote entry/lock function).I've detached the battery.
Plugging the batter back and keeping the key in:
1. Off position causes the "Electronic Immobilzer" light to blink.
2. When in on position. no "electronic immoblizer light comes on.
3. In anycase I can't get the ignition to work.
My engine check/airbag lights are also on and my radio/ac doesn't work. Also the electronic controls for rear view mirrors don't work. Half of the tail (exaust) pipe rusted and has fallen off.On the funny sideI asked the guy at VW to appraise my jetta for a trade and he said it would be $500 for the car !! ONLY After the company official tested the car this won't start...the sales person left, since it was 6PM on Friday. I was left alone and had no option other than to leave my car at Pugi VW showroom and ask a friend for a ride...Long story.
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For the second time in the last 24 months, my rear defroster doesn't seem to be working. The first time I took it into the dealer and under warranty, they had to replace the entire rear window. The side view mirror defrosters still worked and they still work now. It just seems that the rear isn't working again and this time my warranty has run out.
Should I take it back to the dealer and hope they honor their work? My 3yr/36k expired 4 months ago. How could I even test that it is working? I've only had to use it 2 or 3x since last Feb. and that's when I noticed it doesn't seem to be working. I only had to use it for short trips so the main defroster in the cab eventually defrosted the rear window. The weather is warmer so now I won't have as many chances to have it fogged up.
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Just stopped working. The fans of course blow fine and the air vent changes from top to bottom and the like. I checked the fuses and looks OK. I measured the voltages on the pressure switch and they read +5.0VDC and +4.7VDC to ground. The pressure switch itself measures 10.9K Ohms and 6.2 KOhms to ground from the two left pins. Is that the Ohms for LOW R134 ? I will try measuring with a manifold later but thought this might ring a bell. Is this style switch able to be JUMPED ? To see if it is only low pressure ? The ones I am used to have only 2 pins and this has three. I read +2.6VDC on the compressor clutch.
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Maintenance Required Light just started blinking at start up... Blinks 8 times then stops. Looked up in manual. Will start blinking at start up at 4500 miles and then stay on after 5000 miles. Guess it's time to schedule the 1st trip to the service department.
Not much on the 5K check
- Fluid Levels
- check brakes
- Rotate tires
- etc
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So I have the dreaded "rear defroster/radio static interference" issue on my 2011 Corolla LE. I turn on my radio and all is good. I turn on my rear window defroster and my FM reception goes away.I am pretty sure I did it to myself because it only started happening after I cleaned the rear window with some windshield washing fluid and a paper towel. I do have a knack for being a bit gruff on things and people unintentionally so I guess I am not surprised. I must have damaged the elements of the rear defroster in the process of cleaning the window. I should have left it dirty.
Anyway, I've read many posts detailing how breaks in the rear defroster grid can introduce EMI that effects the factory radio antennae in the rear window. Some of the answers I have seen suggested are:
1) replace the rear window (really?)
2) use a repair kit. URL...
3) completely replace the the rear defroster grid with an after market kit. URL...
4) replace the factory antennae with an after market unit that is not internally mounted
5) live with it
Are there any other options that I haven't found? If the root cause is the rear defroster, the repair kit seems like the way to go (even if it looks like an annoying task to perform upside down in such tight and cramped spaces). Might fix the defroster if its broken but will it resolve the EMI problem ...
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so I have a 2010 Camry and I'm 99% certain the rear defroster doesn't work. I came from a 2000 Camry where, upon pressing the rear defrost button, the rear window would clear up within like 5 minutes (literally-- that thing was fast), but my 2010 Camry doesn't do that.
I drove for about 15 minutes last night and saw no change whatsoever. The orange LED lights up when I press the button (and stays lit) for the rear defroster, but I'm not seeing any results.
Is there a fuse I should check? the orange LED comes on and stays on when I press that button, but I'm pretty sure nothing's happening. This is the only problem thing I've ever noticed that's wrong with my car.
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As I understand the radio is on the rear window of the car and every time i listen to the radio and turn on the rear defroster I get static and I can barely hear the radio. Is it possible to buy a different antenna and mount it somewhere else instead of using the one on the window?
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I'd like to disable my rear window defroster but keep my heated mirrors. Reason being I don't won't my rear window to explode when I turn it on. I have a 2011 bought a couple of months ago. Could I pull the fuse and still have the mirrors on? I rarely use the back window as I use to side mirrors. Drive a 18 wheeler for a living.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Camry. I started hearing this knocking noise(really loud pop) from the rear. I have read the TSB's about a knocking noise coming from the "Spring Bumper" from the strut assembly and they are all facing the correct way. And there was also a TSB for a knocking noise from the "Roof Structure." The dampening bonds come apart and makes a knocking noise. I've replaced a strut mount in the right rear and that did not fix the problem.
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I have an '09 Camry and for the last few months have been hearing a metal popping sound in the rear wheel area when I go over a bump or pothole unevenly or backout of a driveway at an angle to go onto the street. The sound does not occur when the wheels when they are even, only when the rear right wheel is "lower" than the left. It has not been in any accidents and there was no event that preceded this popping.
I took it to the dealership but they were unable to replicate the issue but it happens no matter who drives the car (my husband or myself) and it is likely that the service guys didn't go over any bumps/curbs/potholes unevenly to hear the sound. What this is or if this is in need of getting fixed? They check the axles and said everything was good with the car but it is still popping and driving me nuts.
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I have an '09 Camry and for the last few months have been hearing a metal popping sound in the rear wheel area when I go over a bump or pothole unevenly or backout of a driveway at an angle to go onto the street. The sound does not occur when the wheels when they are even, only when the rear right wheel is "lower" than the left. It has not been in any accidents and there was no event that preceded this popping. I took it to the dealership but they were unable to replicate the issue but it happens no matter who drives the car (my husband or myself) and it is likely that the service guys didn't go over any bumps/curbs/potholes unevenly to hear the sound. They check the axles and said everything was good with the car but it is still popping and driving me nuts.
Current suggestions:
• Cracked bearing race. It could be another problem entirely having to do with the suspension mounts or axle mounts but let's hope these new mechanics will figure it out.
• Problem with a wheel bearing
• Struts and suspension components
• Bushings and parts
• Loose upper strut center nut or from loose upper strut mounting nuts
I took it back to a shop but they are thinking the sound is actually coming from the body near the roofing area in the right rear portion of the car. They seem to think based on the sound (metal popping only when that wheel is lower (like coming out of a driveway angled, or going over a pothole)) that it is the metal body but it would cost and arm and a leg to get in to even find out what it was. They assured me that it wasn't impacting the safety of the body and is just a funky sound. The sound is much louder in the car than outside which I think kind of supports their theory. Are they right and it won't impact the safety?
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I bought a used 2013 F150 Limited. The truck only had 24,000 miles on it and is still under the 36/36 warranty.
I tried to use the rear defroster and the button never stayed on. As I started to investigate the truck through the owners manual I realized that it was supposed to come with heated mirrors, standard equipment on the limited, and it shows them on the VIN build out. It does not have the heated mirrors installed.
I take it to my local dealer to get the rear defroster fixed and have the mirrors installed and the dealer won't do it. I have to call Ford and open a case. I do this and Ford rejects my claim since I bought it used.
To me this shows a very poor business ethic and is disrespectful to a long time loyal Ford customer. To be honest this has really ticked me off and completely turned me off towards Ford.
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My rear defroster on my sliding glass window doesn't work all the time. I make sure the window is completely closed. It sometimes comes on and other times it doesn't. Sometimes it comes on and immediately shuts off. The dealership says I will need a new window. The truck is 7 months out of warranty. I think a $52,000 truck should have a rear defroster that works a heck of a lot longer than 43 months, especially when it has only been used 3 times since I bought it. Is this a problem that any of you have experienced with you F-150's ? I love my truck and will live with the rear defroster not working before I replace it. I just feel that Ford should have better quality than that.
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