2009 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder. Our car got flooded last week. Water only got inside to the floor mats and we vacuumed it out. Now the car wont start. It starts and then dies right away. Only when I remove the key from ignition and restart it comes on and goes off again. I was thinking about changing out the ignition module with key. Checked all fuses and they are OK.
View 6 RepliesI have a V6 with 162,000 miles. A year ago in the early spring we replaced the alternator, starter, fuel pump, lines, filter, dropped and cleaned the tank, fuel coils, repaired / replaced almost all injectors, spark plugs.Since April of last year, every few months my Car would have a hiccup of that it starts fine but would immediately die out. It would take anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes of trying to get it to start again. Other than that it would run beautifully. This week, while on the road it would jolt and die out. It happened 3 times. Yesterday morning it would once again crank fine and immediately die out. It will no longer keep running. We have not been able to keep my car started since then.
View 14 RepliesPurchased a 2009 XLE Toyota Camry V6 on 11/15/2011 with 13,562 miles. Noticed a vibration that starts around 65 mph, the faster you go the more noticeable the vibration. Made an appointment for the selling dealer to address the vibration. Dealer balanced four tires however this is what was noted on the invoice.'vibration from rear end at 65 and up' (my comments when dropping off the car). Comments from servicing dealer 'balance all 4 tires - may feel some vibration-tires choppy'. Where would you suggest I start? Who should I talk to at the dealer? Am I in a position to have them replace the tires? I have contacted the salesperson to keep her abreast of the situation. Current mileage 15,100.
Tire Make and Model: Sumitomo HTR T4 - the tires appear brand new.
Tire shop balanced (said the selling dealer did not do a very good job balancing the tires), rotated and performed an alignment. Tire shop stated the front passenger tire is cupped. Manager figures the previous owner did not do any maintenance on the OEM tires so the selling dealer installed new tires on the car due to premature wear. The vibration is better but still obvious and annoying. Said there is a possibility the cupping will go away as more miles are accrued on the tires, but until then the ride will not be smooth.
'91 Toyota 2wd Pickup, 22R-E Engine. 1 yr. ago out of the blue it would start and idle, but if I give it any gas it would die. Shop had trouble figuring it out, then replaced Mass Airflow Sensor; problem re-occurred after once after this repair, but could not be reproduced at shop. 1 yr. later, driving along and engine quits without any warning. Very hard to start, but restarts once, drives about one more block, dies. Unable to restart; engine will crank and catch, but after about 1 second dies. Tried unplugging Mass Airflow Sensor; no change. Left sitting overnight, next morning it starts right up. Problem seems similar to a year ago, though this time it wouldn't start and idle, it would just start and immediately die. In every instance it was rainy/slushy and cold.
View 8 Replies1999 4-runner 6-cylinder. starts and then immediately dies.
View 2 RepliesI own a 1996 Toyota Celica. When the car is cold it starts and run for about 5 minutes then dies. When I try to start the car, with the key in the 'on' position, I have no check engine light. If I crank the engine and release the key to the 'run' position, the 'check engine' light turns on. When the car is cold or I leave it to rest for a couple hours and I turn the key on the 'check engine' light turns on. it is after the car stalls out i have this problem. At this point if I spray some starter fluid into the intake the car attempts to start. I thought that it was the pump so I installed a new one. Fuel pressure is good. It seems to me that the injectors are not working.
Is it the computer? Given that fuel is getting to the injectors but the injectors are not firing, Given that I have ignition since when I spray starter fluid into the intake the car fires up and runs until it runs out of starter fluid. Where do I start? I have not used a noid light as yet to check the injector harness and as you all know the harness is a little difficult to get at because of its location under the intake.
I bought a 2009 Hyundai Accent used at 110.000Km. I've only been driving it for 3 weeks and today I went to start the car and it turned over and died right away. It did this a couple of times then it finally started fine and I was able to drive it. What it could be?
View 4 RepliesMy 1990 Toyota 4runner won't stay running after I changed the air filter. Starts up for couple sec then dies. It ran the same morning then had problem after changing filter.
View 2 RepliesOpened one of the rear doors on my crew cab and there must have been several gallons of water sloshing around inside the door. Shook the door a few times and water started draining out both corners of the door seam. After about an hour (I told you it was a lot of water) it seems to have stopped draining. Now I'm wondering how long this has been going on and what the inside of the door looks like by now.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2010 Corolla XRS that been flawless until today. This morning I moved my car in my yard, it was about a 20 second adventure and all was good. About 2 hours later, I went to use the car and it wouldn't start. Now it just starts then immediately dies. If I try and crank it over without turning off the ignition, it just cranks. If I turn off the ignition and try again, it starts, then dies again. This is 100% repeatable.
Battery posts and voltage are good. No OBDII codes. Fuses all look good.
We've owned the 2009 LX570 (approx 101k miles) for about a month now. The vehicle has run fine, no issues. This morning it started very briefly (.25sec) then quit. Same thing over and over. I charged the battery, had it load tested and it all checks out fine. I cleared codes and rechecked it. No standard OBDII codes show, only the enhanced codes. Dash shows a CEL. We drove the vehicle yesterday a few times and all was fine...normal acceleration, started, etc. Then, this morning, it went down. I also pulled the MAF, cleaned it, reinstalled. Pulled the intake tube, cleaned the throttle body butterfly and corresponding area around the butterfly. It was slightly dirty but looked normal.
Here's what I have for codes:
P0300 Random Misfire Detected
P0011 Intake camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 1)
P0012 Intake camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 1)
P0014 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 1)
P0015 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 1)
P0016 Camshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 1 Sensor A
P0017 Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 1 Sensor B
P0018 Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 2 Sensor A
P0019 Crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation - Bank 2 Sensor B
P0021 Intake camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 2)
P0022 Intake camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 2)
P0024 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - advanced (Bank 2)
P0025 Exhaust camshaft position timing - over - retarded (Bank 2)
P0032 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
P0052 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2, Sensor 1)
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance
I am uploading a short video to Photobucket, which perhaps illustrates what's happening better than I can describe. I will post it up once it clears on Photobucket. Cranking sounds normal and I can hear what sounds like the fuel pump activating as well. I know that low voltage on a CANBUS system can make weird things happen. However, since my battery checks out, I'm not sure on this one.
This morning while driving with a/c on, water was coming out on the side of the center console. It's leaking a lot, that a spot is soaking wet.
View 4 RepliesI have a v6 se 2013, and I just happen to see that there is some water drops inside my right fog light, I change my bulbs like a month ago, is that the reason? And if it is and I take it to the dealer would they avoid my warranty.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Camry that starts and runs fine, but after driving a short distance it dies. After sitting for some time, the car starts back up and runs fine again.
View 2 Replies2002 Camry, i was gonna remove manifold & 1st step was to pull relay to relieve fuel pressure(which it did) but then i needed to use car so i put it back now car turns over & immediately sputters-out unless i depress & hold accelerator. Also, fuel in tank is very low, in case that could be culpable.
View 3 RepliesWhen I go to start my car in the morning the first 5-6 times I turn it over, doesn't start, than it starts than dies out about 3 times than it will keep a idle, but if I press the gas pedal when it starts to idle it always dies out but if I let it warm up when it starts to idle it doesn't die out? If I drive it and shut it off as long as the engine is warm it starts right up..
View 4 Replies2003 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder
I am experiencing a loud noise which is getting worse from inside my engine compartment. I took off the heat shield assuming it was coming from the exhaust manifold but it is not. It sounds more like it is coming from the intake manifold. Now I would assume it was the intake manifold issue that has been described in many threads but it is not a vibration or clanging sound. It just sounds like air is escaping from my intake. What baffles me is that the sound is loudest in drive. Then neutral is the next loudest, then reverse there is very little unordinary sound.
I hear it a little bit when I am going like 15-20 MPH in reverse and let off the gas to decelerate. There is a noticeable noise increase just at idle too. I checked and all fluid levels are good. I changed the tranny fluid about a month ago and according to the dipstick it is right on where it should be. The sound is increasing and I am worried about what it may be. It sounds as if it has an exhaust leak but I do not see anything.
I own a toyota camry le automatic that has the engine light on and dies while driving. I've taken it to a mechanic and he diagnosed the error codes p0500 and 720. we fixed the 720 by replacing the trans. speed shaft sensor and replaced the vehicle speed sensor with one we bought from ebay. The rpm will shoot up randomly whilst the check engine light is on. the speedometer works just fine now. car dies when it slows down or at a stop. the rpm goes far below 1000 and i smell gas then i hear it beginning to struggle just to stay on.
The dash lights dim and return to normal then dim again and repeat then it shuts off and the battery light along with oil light come on. turns on fine but when put in reverse or drive it shuts off. it cant go more than 3 minutes without it messing up. when the engine light isn't on it runs just fine but once it turns on i've got about three minutes to get back somewhere safe. also when it does want to die i have to give it gas for it to stay on. i feel a major lag also and the o/d light flashes along with the pwr light.
97 Toyota Camry 2.2l motor.
Sometimes, when I turn the ignition on I don't hear a sound and all the power dies in the car (the radio ejects the CD and all the presets are erased when I turn it out of start). This can happen once or twice in a row then generally the car starts up normally.
The battery is brand new (1 month) and is fully charged. My hope is that it's the starter drawing too much power when it tries to start? It's entirely possible it has the factory starter still on the car.
I have a 1995 Toyota Camry V6 XLE and ...My driver's side door locked up and won't open from the outside or from the inside! Here are the problems:
1. I can put the key in the keyhole on the outside and it will turn clockwise but won't turn to the left at all- when I turn it clockwise it makes the normal sounds.
2. I can from the inside push the power door locks to lock and unlock and it moves the lock both ways on the drivers side, still won't open!
3. When I pull on the latch from the inside and from the outside I can hear the inner mechanisms moving, sounding like it wants to unlatch it from the locked position.
4. Now I am getting paranoid about the passenger side door because when I go to put the key in on the passenger side door lock, I can turn it to the Left to unlock the doors but the key won't turn to the right at all! It is a pain right now as it is to crawl over to the driver's side via the passenger door, but if that door locks up for some reason, I am really up the creek! I don't even lock that side right now b/c I'm afraid it might mess up like the driver's side door!
Can swap a 98 Toyota Camry auto tranny to a 96 Camry with the same size engine? Sometimes the axles are different (splines) so if the axles are changed also then the tranny will work. But the axles and tranny all have to be switched?Driving down the road at about 65 mph there was a clunk, a binding like brake stuck thing going on, and then the tranny would not move the car. It seems as though the chain, if there is a chain in the tranny, broke. Someone told me it is the gears (planetary) on the right hand side of the transmission that drives the axle. No one including me has gone under it to look. But I do have access to that 98 tranny and axles.
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