I have a cold start problem with my camry. The engine has clocked 100k now. When ever i start the car in cold weather; it never starts for the first time. The second time when i start it, the engine stalls a bit and then the rpm raises upto 2. Also the rpm when the engine is cold remains less then 1.5.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2009 Camry LE with ~65k miles on it and I've had it for a month. I notice that every time I start the car when the engine is cold and accelerate for the first time, there's this little clicking noise. It's very subtle and in the beginning, I hardly noticed it- but now I notice it and I'm freaking out a little.
It only happens on a cold start and it happens once for the entire trip...just when I'm increasing speed that first time.
Why does my hyundai accent 2004 engine revs on motion by itself to the point of burning my clutch plate?
View 2 RepliesJust bought a used 04 XLE Camry for daughter--60K miles. 4 cylinder engine. Engine sounded great when test drove. She has had it for 2 weeks, the engine now rattles badly upon first cold start of the day. Clears up almost immediately (maybe 3-4 seconds). Shut down and restart-no problem--only when cold (or has been sitting for more than a couple of hrs.) I'm thinking it is the valve lifters out of oil, but don't know. And what was the repair?(engine oil was just changed(Synth blend--5W-30Wt.))
View 2 RepliesWhat would cause a sputtering noise to come from the engine but only after a cold start meaning starting in the morning and after work but goes away after I drive for a min or two and doesn't come back until the next morning or after work. It sounds almost as if say you had a hole in your flange and drove it around. Its really weird it happens a few times a week for the psst 2 weeks but hasn't happens ever before that. Could it be the water pump in its way out? Oil levels fine fluid wise everything topped off.
View 4 Replies2009 Matrix with 2Zr-Fe engine (233,000 km or 145000 miles).
Engine has been getting progressively harder to start in the morning, especially when it is cold. Once its warmed up then it starts no problem next time. Occasionally I get the dreaded P0304 code upon startup. Also runs a lot rougher but that's hard to quantify here, I'm just going by sound.
Decided tonight to go through a complete checkup and here is what I found:
1. Looked for a dead cylinder by idling the car and disconnecting each fuel injector one at a time - everything was as it should be.
2. Used my spark tester (OTC 6589) and tested each coil in turn (yes I had the tester connected to battery negative using a battery booster cable). Each sparked strong and correct colour.
3. Pulled all spark plugs and checked them for cracks, carbon tracks and electrode gap, all were fine.
4. Did a dry compression test.
- Uh oh , 2 cylinders (3 and 4) were @ 115 psi, 1 and 2 were at 150 psi (which is also low as standard spec for 2zrfe notes it should be between 157 and 199).
5. Did a wet compression test
- cylinders 3 and 4 now ended up at 150 Psi so that indicates worn rings or pistons?
6. I didn't bother with the fuel injector testing as it looks like the problem is with compression...
So, first, is my diagnosis correct? Could it be a bad head gasket?
Second, is there something in my procedure above that I could have done wrong? The car was warm but not hot. I pulled all spark plugs before starting testing. I didn't take much time between plug holes.
Third, other than rebuilding or replacing engine, are there other options or am I out of luck?
I have the cold start up noise on my 2AZ-FE Camry. It is from the VVT gear.
I have found the Solenoid on the back side of the engine but can't locate the bolt that has the screen inside it.
Where the VVT oil screen is located on this engine?
My Camry 2grfe now has almost 60k miles and it started making a squeaking/dry bearing noise but it goes away after about 2 minutes of running. I was going to replace the serpentine belt when I get a chance, its a tensioner or a pulley bearing? Can the bearings in the tensioner or pulleys be replaced instead?
View 4 RepliesMy 2009 corolla recently started producing a brief metallic sound (less than a second) when i start in a cold morning. I noticed that when I warm up my battery (by starting the heat ventilator or other electrical equipment) for 10-20 seconds the car starts normally. The other thing I noticed that I have some white powder deposits on the top of my battery. There is no any other changes in the way my car runs.
View 2 RepliesRecently bought 2002 Camry 2.4 .... Engine has a cold start rattle in the top passenger side. The noise stops after the engine heats up in about 10 minutes. I've changed the intake manifold.... Did not work. Looking for the OCV VALVE FILTER but cannot find it ....
View 2 Replies5.0 coyote exhaust leak .. Since the cold weather has arrived i have noticed a new noise. During cold start engine warm up I hear a nice little tick-tick-tick which sounds to me like an exhaust leak. Is this a common problem? I have just over 58,000 miles would this be covered under powertrain or do they have some nice exclusions for exhaust?
View 9 RepliesI just punches a 2010 Camry 4 cylinder with 44,646 miles. Very clean. I've owned 2 camrys in the past a 97 and 2002 that both reached well over 200,00 miles without a hint of trouble. Well, when I start the 2010 when its cold like from overnight it sounds like the lifter are ticking?, it lasts until the engine is warm and then I don't hear it. It still has the 2 month 3000 mile warranty from the dealer. I just don't seem to remember our other Toyota sounding that way.
View 14 RepliesI've a loud squeaking sound coming from the front of the engine on cold start. This only happens when I start the engine after overnight parking . There are no squeaks when the engine is warmed up or when I start up with a warm engine.
I'm driving an 07 Camry and live in a region with hot tropical weather.
Video link to the sound [URL] ....
What could be the probable cause of the this and how do I rectify it?
When the weather gets cold, (lower than 45 deg. F) my Jetta does not want to stay running. It turns over and starts just fine but it does not like to stay on. When I turn the key to the #2 position I can hear the fuel pump fire up and pressurize the system. I always attempt to start it after that, and after 1-2 seconds of running, it seems like it chokes itself out. I have the new coolant temp. sensor (green top), my MAF has been replaced, all spark plugs are new with the correct gap (approx. .030"), new air filter, I run 93 octane fuel.
The worst part is, once the car is warmed up (After forcing it fuel and starting it over, and over, and over again) it runs awesome! I have had this problem since I bought the car (about 2 years ago). The owner told me about it and mentioned that he has never been able to figure it out either (trips to the dealer included). I have been dealing with it for 2 years, but it is getting much worse. Over the past 2 days I have not been able to get my car to stay on long enough to get it to move.
2007 F350 138,000 miles
I'm having a small problem. For the past couple of weeks I've started the truck in the morning. I let it run for a few min's as I always do. I jump in it an put into gear and it stalls. Put back in Park , starts right up and then is fine.
knowing that the EGR is due for its monthly cleaning, I went ahead this time around and got a new one for it. Same thing this morning.
I think its kinda odd that it stalls that one time and then is fine. I do run a scan gauge in the truck as well.
I have a question about my 2000 Ford Focus. It has problems in the cold. When the air temperature is below -5 or so, after driving a short while (before the engine is up to temperature) if you come to a stop and the the engine go to idle it will stall. It does this while the car is still in motion (as it is a manual) and you aren't in gear coming to a stop light.
View 1 RepliesMy 2000 Honda CRV starts when cold, however I must continue to give it gas and it will die when I shift into Reverse or Drive. If I rev the engine, I can keep it running and it will run OK once warmed up. When I get it going, the engine will stall if I attempt to let it idle. All problems resolve themselves once the engine is warm. Several mechanics have seen the problem, but cannot determine a solution other than to let the engine warm up. I live in Boston and the combination of having to work my way out of a parking space and the enginge continously stalling when I shift into R or D is making life difficult?
View 5 RepliesWhile driving, idling, accelerating, or braking the engine of 2010 Toyota Corolla XRS (2.4L) will be running fine but then have a shudder, evening stalling at times.
View 4 RepliesNow that summer is here the AC is in use. So the procedure is turn on engine let it run for one minute or a few minutes then turn on the AC. When I turn on the AC almost all the time the engine stall. It does not die but it stall really bad. Is fine after that at stop light and in traffic. Not sure what to make of it.
Camry 2008 4 cyl auto.
I have a 1995 Toyota Camry, 4 Cylinder that has just started stalling when I step on the gas after a complete stop. After that, the car will not start for over an hour and will last only a few miles after that. this has happened 3 times so far. I have changed out the fuel pump but that did not do the trick.
I also noticed that when it was cold this past winter and I was on the highway the temperature would decrease a lot. But regular city driving the temperature seemed fine. Well now that it's warm again, the car shuts off at just above the halfway mark. So this morning I changed out the Thermostat and now it's running hotter than ever, the heat does not work at all, and the car will not start. (it started up fine after the thermostat install but the engine temp was high and heat was not blowing warm) I'm hoping it's not a bigger issue.
Just stopped working. The fans of course blow fine and the air vent changes from top to bottom and the like. I checked the fuses and looks OK. I measured the voltages on the pressure switch and they read +5.0VDC and +4.7VDC to ground. The pressure switch itself measures 10.9K Ohms and 6.2 KOhms to ground from the two left pins. Is that the Ohms for LOW R134 ? I will try measuring with a manifold later but thought this might ring a bell. Is this style switch able to be JUMPED ? To see if it is only low pressure ? The ones I am used to have only 2 pins and this has three. I read +2.6VDC on the compressor clutch.
View 7 Replies