I have a 2009 Camry SE. Yesterday it would not crank and I wound up having to replace the battery. Now the ac blower motor runs even when the ignition is off and when the ignition is on, I cannot control the speed of the blower. I had to unplug the blower motor to make it stop. What would cause this?? Everything else seems to work fine.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer OZ and the problem currently associated with it is that blower motor is running no matter if the key is in the ignition or not.
View 15 RepliesI am new to the world of the Cadillac. I bought a nice 1994 Deville for $500 at auction. I replaced the water pump and put two new tires on the front. It is my daily driver I use for work, I put about 96 miles a day on it. The gas mileage is actually really good due to 90% of my drive is on the highway.
The only issue I am currently having is that the Heater/AC blower motor keeps running until I pull the plug under the hood. I started looking up solutions only to find that there really seems to be very little in the way of getting good information.
I have one side saying it's the blower motor itself
another saying it's the BMC
another saying it's the heater/ac programer
and still another saying there is no cure just pull the fuse
When I checked here I found one person with the same problem back in 2011, but there was no resolution.
I have an 04 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 AWD with climate control. All other trucks this year I've only seen with manual HVAC controls. My blower motor is constantly running anytime the key is turned on. It feels like it is blowing 3/4 strong all the time and I can turn it up, what feels like one setting higher. Even if the climate control is turned off it keeps blowing. I can control the temp and AC and defroster, I just cannot control the actual airflow pressure from the vents. On an older car this seems like a resistor issue. Is this a common issue? If so, what can I do to try to rectify this?
View 4 RepliesHave a 2009 platinum, 5.4, supercrew with dualzone heating and air. The blower motor resistor block is overheating and melting the connector block. fooled with it way too much, and then put a new resistor and pigtail in it. The new resistor would kick out in about 30 seconds, so used the old resistor on the new pigtail, got hot, melted the new pigtail. What is causing the resistor block to get so hot, and what do I do about it?
View 7 RepliesWhat is the testing procedures for the blower motor controller on my 2009 150 Lariat. In the old days it was called the resistor but now it is computer controlled for the dual climate control. My fan is stuck on high, the fan switch does work(the bars on the display change when I push the fan speed button). The climate control works also, just blasts you with air and the temp is changing a lot due to the fact of the fan on High. I am 99% sure it is the blower motor controller, but I would like to test the controller.
View 14 RepliesI'm getting this weird chirping noise from what sounds like the A/C and Heat fan. When I turn it down it is noticeable and sounds like something needs oiled. Kind of like pieces of plastic hitting each other over and over again. When I turn the air up there's no noise but probably because the air rushing out is so loud. I'm thinking I may need to take something out and oil it up. Too cold here to do my own thorough investigation.
View 4 RepliesI bought my youngest daughter a used 2009 Ford Escape (out of warranty) a week ago. Manual HVAC controls, 3.0 V6, AWD, 73K miles. The HVAC blower motor do not seem to move any air on speed 1 and 2. However speeds 3 and 4 appear to operate normally. Speed 4 noticeably puts out more volume of air then 3. Each 3 and 4 operator what seems to be normal speeds for their setting.
I would normally suspect resistor but my experience is usually that you have all or nothing not it's partially working like this is. I don't mind throwing a new resistor in there and trying it but I rather come up with a better way of troubleshooting it then throw parts at it.
My blower motor does not blow hard on high. 2009 AVALON.
View 3 RepliesSo for a few months now, my car has been making a subtle clicking noise whenever I have the ac or heat on, kind of similar to the noise spokes on a bike would make when children put a card in them. The noise increases/decreases in speed as I adjust the ac/heater speed.
Recently though, it's gotten to a point where sometimes, the blower motor would completely stop working. I can still feel heat and cold coming through the vents when I turn the AC on, but the it doesn't always blow air. I've noticed that sometimes when I hit a bump in the road, it starts working again. It works at all settings and all temperatures perfectly (when it's working that is).
How should I proceed? I don't know much about cars, but from what I've seen on the internet, it doesn't seem too difficult to replace the blower motor. I just want to be sure that the blower motor is indeed the cause, because I don't want to install a new one to be disappointed when I turn it on and still have the same issue. And winter is just around the corner so I would love to get this taken care of.
I replaced the blower motor resistor on a 2010 F150 with dual climate control where the blower was stuck on high.
After replacing the resistor, now the lower speeds work fine, but when placed on high speed, the fan completely shuts down. Replace with the old resistor, and it only runs on high.
How to proceed, or what else might be the problem?
I have a 2010 Toyota Camry 2.5L. Suddenly the blower-motor stopped working. I looked at the under-hood fuse panel and noticed a few of the fuses in the fuse bus-bar were blown, however I'm not sure how the bus-bar is removed. Is this most likely my blower-motor problem? If so, how do I replace those fuses?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2009 toyota camry le 4 cyl with 170000 miles. I had my rear main seal replaced because there was an oil leak. Now after I got it back from the shop, there is a oil leak near the front motor mount and my engine had gotten louder when i accelerate. also it smells like paint or something inside my car. what did the shop do?
View 3 RepliesWhy 2009 Camry 4 cyl runs rough when ac is turned on? Car has 42k and started during last 6k. Dealer says car is normal but it didn't do this until recently.
View 3 RepliesMy '04 Phaeton was towed Nov. 24 - completely dead, blower motor fan would not turn off...even powered OFF, with key out of the ignition! Both batteries were then drained, had to be replaced to diagnose...
Ended up being blower motor fan resistor. The tech said the ESP/ESC (?) light was "now on" where it was NOT on before all this. He did not run a diagnostics, not sure why. And not sure why service manager didn't mention it before I paid and checked out. :/
But NOW the car is doing some funky things.... upon start-up, whether pulling out in drive or backing out in reverse, the brakes (or SOMETHING ??) seem to be erratically grabbing, there is an awful grinding/scraping noise, the car jerks and stutters and hops, just for a few seconds, then something seems to "give"/"release" and the grinding and scraping and jumping stops and I roll on like normal. BUT the ESP light (that is now CONSTANTLY on), BLINKS/FLASHES when this grinding and stutter-stepping happens. It sounds awful, it feels awful, and it's making me nervous. Of course I contacted VW service immediately, and they're saying I can bring it back in to run diagnostics.
I know for a fact the car was completely dead, NOTHING worked, as both batteries were "fired" according to VW.....so nothing between the car dying and the batteries and blower motor being fixed transpired -- except the towing. And my guess is the had to DRAG it onto the flatbed in PARK b/c it would not take a charge at all to put in NEUTRAL.
My moms 09 camry has a hard time starting and runs rough. I found out that when my father went to get an oil change, they put in 5W-30. The engine cap on the engine says 0W-20 or 5W-20. The car is at 70K and it has never had any issues, always ran smoothly, always started... until the last oil change. I have looked through the all the service logs and it seems that the last 3 services, they also used 5W-30 oil in the car.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 GMC Jimmy and I am having an issue with the blower motor. Speeds 1 and 2 do not seem to work. Speeds 3 and 4 work fine. This is the manual climate control not the automatic. I searched and it seems everyone usually has a problem with the high speeds & not the low speeds...
View 9 RepliesMy wife heard a humming noise on a 200 mile trip to Long Island last week. It was loud enough that she was concerned about it and took it into a Toyota dealership to have it checked out. Of course, the noise went away, and they assured her that the car was perfect!
When she came home, I drove the car and the noise came back. Radio was off and the frequency of the noise changed with the AC/heater blower speed. Turn blower (fan) off, and the noise completely disappears. Before I got home, noise disappeared again with the fan on. I believe it is a bad bearing in the blower motor.
My prius that I got about 1 1/2 years ago (2013 model) was making some noise. After conducting a few experiments I came to the conclusion it was the heat that was causing it. I removed the glovebox and lower plastic panel as well to see if it was actually the blower that was making the noise. And it was the blower.
So now it's like 20 degrees outside and I haven't used the heat because I didn't want to blow something so gotta get this fixed ASAP.
Like I mentioned glovebox and lower panel are open I've removed 2 of the 3 screws necessary to remove the blower. So the problem lies with the 3rd screw. There is a plastic socket with wires that is preventing me from reaching the 3rd screw so I have to remove that socket. So I have a couple pictures and how I can remove this so I can access the blower motor.
Also isn't it strange that the car isn't even 3 years old and the blower is giving me problems?
How to replace blower motor in 01 Prius. There are no way to get from to it from under the glove box.
Blower motor was working fine. I decided to remove cabin filter. Filter had not been changed for very long time. There was a lot of dirt, pine straw and leaves on top of the filter. When I removed the filter a lot of dirt fell inside the motor. Ever since then motor is working on and off. Often have to hit under the glove box and it works again for a while. Tried to remove the blower but could not get to it.
Several weeks ago, the blower motor in my 2010 stopped blowing. It came on within a day or so, but failed again, so I replaced it with a new part from Rock Auto: TYC 700249.
The new fan just stopped again. I plugged the harness in and out several times and it did briefly come on a few times, but clearly something else is going on.
I don't know if it's relevant, but after I took out the OEM fan, I experimented by removing the plate from its back that has wires and capacitors (actually, I don't know what I'm talking about) and connected the main prongs directly to a 12V battery. It came on right away. I installed the new fan anyway, figuring it was the plate/wires assembly portion that was bad. The "resistor?"