I have a 2009 Camry that makes a metal to metal rubbing noise when turning left. t is coming from the Front Right passenger side. I recently changed out the bearing and hub on the front right but I still have the noise when turning left. Also, when driving normally and going straight there seems to be somewhat of a dull click click click noise.
View 3 RepliesI have a base v6. When I turn the steering wheel (for example, to make a left turn), it sounds like there is metal-on-metal rubbing. The wheel is not extended (turned all the way til it stops)...
View 2 RepliesWhen I turn left sharply i hear a rubbing sound. I thought it was just tire rubbing but I am not sure. What else could it be? The car is stock height stock everything. It just got new brakes and tires recently. it looks like something is rubbing the cv boot....
View 5 RepliesI have the most terrible clunking/rubbing sound on my right passenger side, especially when I'm turning left. When I drive straight it sounds like the wheel is hopping even when going over minuscule imperfections in the road. I also get a terrible rub when going over speed bumps or into grooves and dips in the road.
I've searched and searched but cannot come up with a answer towards rectifying the issue. My car hasn't been lowered; I'm running the stop 337 suspension. I've replaced the following within the past two years:
-control arm bushings
-ball joints
-tie rod ends
-upper strut bushings and bearings
-passenger side axle
-dog bone mount
-engine mount
-tranny mount
Most recently:
-front struts
-sway bar end-links
-driver's side axle
It seems to like everything should be solid considering I've done all of this crap. I don't understand why I'm having this issue and why it sounds like it is getting worse and worse.
I have a 2009 Toyota Camry with approx 124K miles on it (my daily commute isn't that great...). Lately I've noticed some vibrations or rubbing when I'm turning:
There is a constant rubbing/grinding noise when turning. It is more obvious when I turn right. It is definitely coming from the front tires. It does not sound like metal at all. Just like a rubbing noise, that causes a slight vibration up front.
When I'm driving straight, at a certain speed, I notice the vibration/rubbing sound, but it eventually blends in with the sound of the road. The ride isn't bumpy at all, so I don't think it's related to the struts. When I pull out of a parking place, turning left, it just feels "loose", if that makes any sense.
From what I've been reading, it seems to lean towards a bad wheel bearing, or CV issues. What the problem could be?
When I was reversing back and turning the steering wheel. I heard a metal clunk sound and it had happened twice in the past two days. Today happened after I released the parking brake and set it to reverse. What is the problem? Miles on the car is ~30700 miles.
View 2 RepliesI have developed a sounds that sounds like metal on metal. Not a grinding but more of a "swish swish swish" light metal rubbing when the truck has been running a mile or two. I can barely hear it over the radio but its very noticeable when the window is down. It is not affected by the pressing the brakes and it gets louder and faster in direct portion to speed. It will occasionally leave and start right back up. I touched the front rim around the hub and it was hotter than I wanted to hold onto. It didn't burn but it was hot. It was 105 degrees that day. Here is what I have done.
I replaced that front hub in 2010 and probably have 50K miles on it. I did the 3-9 test and there was no noticeable play. I spun the hub and while it seems to spin ok it does seem a little dry.... I will pull it tomorrow and see what it looks like.
I pulled the calipers off and the brakes pads are at half way and there is no burnt smell. I spun the rotor and it seemed flat and straight. I do have a small tiny lip all the way around them on both sides but I figured that's normal with 265K. I pulled the pins and they were dry but they didn't seem to be sticking. I cleaned them up with the boots and am going to replace them when I get some brake grease tomorrow. I have not looked real hard at the caliper but I plan on pressing that with a C-Clamp tomorrow to check it. Since the rotors and pads looked OK, I assumed there was not a stuck caliper although haven't ruled it out. The axle behind the hub seem to spin freely before I removed all this stuff and the hubs are not locked.
I think I covered it all .. I also thought it could be a rock or stick but nothing came out of my caliper or rotor when I took them off ..
Metal on metal rubbing sound when starting off from a stop at slow speeds? It seems like it is brake related because putting on the brakes stops the noise. The noise also seems to go away when you get a little more speed, and maybe when the it shifts from 1st to 2nd ? This also is intermittent.
View 2 RepliesAt 75K my passenger side rear brakes were making metal on metal sound. I was really surprised as I have always learned that the front brakes take 80% of load and they always go out before the backs. So I took the wheel off and sure enough the pads were metal on metal. Changed everything out. (new rotors). I then went over to the driver side rear brake. Looks brand new. The pistons were barely out. I figured this caliper is bad. (I haven't change yet)
When I drive I can hear a very faint metal on metal sound when I brake. VERY FAINT. So with 75K miles on I figure the front brakes are due. Today I took the wheels off and inspected them. Tons of pad left on both of them. If I didn't know better I would say a brake job had been done very recently. (I've owned the car new so I know they have not had a brake job) However after reading many articles on this site I found a thread where one user said he was changing his front brakes for the first time with 110K on them and the pads still had 10K left in them. So the fact that my front pads are still pristine at 75K may not be a big deal (or not as big as I thought. Also I am not hard on brakes.)
However I'm not sure what is going on. Why would the passenger rear brake be metal on metal at 75K and the three other pads are like new. Is the passenger rear the only one working (or working much harder than the others) meaning the other three are bad? Or is the rear passenger bad and the other three are good? I have a working knowledge of cars but I am by no means a mechanic.
I have got this noise which sounds like a light skimming of metal on metal. It sounds like a roller (airport baggage) spinning. It can be heard mostly when driving next to a wall or past parked cars. I suspect it being the bearing in either the water pump, idler pulley or even alternator. The car has 330000 kms but it is serviced regularly in which all fluids have been changed over time. I just want to drive through a tunnel and not hear any non harmonic sounds coming from the front.
View 10 RepliesI have 2003 F150 SuperCrew 5.4L XLT. For past month or so, have been hearing metal rubbing sound and had shakes in braking - as well as a "grabbing and pulling" sound near brake pedal - very aggravating to say the least. Weird thing is the grabbing and pulling sound only happens under 10 miles an hour or coming to a complete stop. (The grabbing sort of sounds like the sound the ABS makes when hit really hard)
Yesterday I had brakes and rotors replaced - mechanic said front rotors were beyond turning - very bad. 135,000 miles on truck. Felt more comfortable until I pulled out of shop and when I applied brakes, had the same grabbing/grinding sound, but no pulling. Went back to mechanic and had him ride with me to hear sound, and he is stumped.
Knew it was safe(r) to drive since new pads/rotors installed, but when I got up to 55mph and barely touched the brakes, the steering wheel began to shake violently - but no sound/grabbing from brake pedal area like I get when I am 10mph or under. Really at a loss right now.. What's going on?
Truck is a 2WD, also hear some thump thump thump sounds from front left tire, which are only one year old, but tire man said that was from suspension arm or something - nothing to worry about he says.
Some people have said "bearing" or "hub" but when brakes were replaced, the bearings were repacked...is this the same thing? Is the current problem safe to drive with? I do not take vehicle out of the county - just to work and back and hunting on weekends.
My Elantra's HVAC fan has always been a quiet thing, even on 3.....we won't mention level 4 and the fact it sounds like a 747 at takeoff.
I kid you not, the very evening I hit 60,000 miles and the general warranty expired, the blower motor started making noise like it was throwing a bearing and definitely sounded like some light metal-on-metal rubbing. After I became irritated at this, the noise went away and didn't come back until just a few weeks ago. I could make it stop by smacking on the bottom of the fan assembly a few times but I want a more permanent solution.
Tonight I dropped the blower out which was stupid easy except for the fact you're upside down in the dark with your head in a hole. But three screws and an electrical connector later, I dropped the assembly to find no serviceable components. I mentioned this to friend of mine who's into Volvos suggested spraying some lithium grease on the hub of the blower and letting it run long enough to quiet it down. I'll do this over the next few days and report back but part of me thinks a new blower may be in my future.
Getting the RV ready to go for the summer, and no a/c. I started to add freon, and found the leak right away.
It's on the 3/4" pipe that goes right over the upper radiator hose; obviously rubbing metal to metal caused the pinhole. Now I know where that mystery green snot came from all over my radiator hose coming back from Yellowstone last fall.
First thought was to replace the entire pipe. There's an easy threaded connector on the upper end, but way down on the compressor is a strange fitting that looks like a triangle stuck against a cube. I can't see how I'd get a wrench in there very easy anyway. What is that fitting?
I bought a Dorman 3/4" repair kit, but until it arrives in the mail I don't know if I've got enough straight pipe to work with. Do I need to add oil as well as freon once I charge the system again?
I have a problem! I have only had my 07 gs awd for less than 2 months. I noticed this morning when I turn my wheel all the way to the left or right it makes a grinding or like metal on metal noise. My brakes were done only a year ago, and this noise only happens when I'm turned all the way to the right or left.
View 11 RepliesMy front left tire is rubbing to the point where I can feel it in the steering wheel slightly slowing the car down. This happens only going over about 40-50 and only when i turn the steering wheel like an inch to the left. To better clarify it doesn't rub while turning left going down a slope.
View 2 RepliesCar : 03 Buick Regal
Recent Repairs : Installed new brakes, rotors, and bearings a month ago
Problems/Symptoms:
1. When going forward grinding noise ONLY when turning wheel to the right, becomes a tad louder when applying brake.
2. When going reverse cannot turn at all without hearing an AWFUL grinding noise and the tire seizing up.
3. Front left rotor (where noise is coming from) is beginning to wear heavily on the upper-outside portion in a 2" band.
Possible Solution that I thought of:The metal brake pad clip is somehow bent/not installed right so it is grinding on the rotor.
Why Can't I Check Right Now : Do not have hydraulic jack currently to get my car up. Waiting until Friday.
Today, I took the car to the shop today and they actually found that my sway bar needs to be replaced, but unfortunately they did not open up the brakes to check out the grinding noise. So when I left, I got to thinking about the brake pad clip.
So my 09' Camry now has 130K KMs on it and for the last few months I've had an issue where when I turn the steering wheel (at rest and while moving) there is a clunking sound and feel in the steering wheel at various spots in the steering wheel rotation.
I'm worried the u-joints (if it uses them) in the steering column are worn out and might need replacing/lubricating but I'm not sure how to address the issue without an expensive Out of warranty visit to the dealer.
I have a 2001 F350 7.3 with a 6" lift..I have a extended pitman arm for the lift and I have just noticed that it is rubbing when I do a left turn....
View 3 RepliesMy dually has started to make a rubbing or grinding noise just about every time I make a turn, left or right. What this could be, truck has 8500 miles on it.
SD Dually
i have a 2009 Camry LE. I got it (used with 43.000 miles in February 2011) i've noticed a clicking sound when i am turning the wheel in either direction half way or more. The clicking speeds up as the car does and slows as the car slows. It's more noticeable at low speeds. I've read about the ABS clicking when the car is started but the noise is not present unless turning.
View 13 RepliesI have the dreaded click-click-click noise when turning that is indicative of my CV joint going tits up. Checking it out the boot is split and there is some grease. So, I plan on going ahead and changing both sides drive axles out, since the Camry has 178k on it (yeah, 178k on a 2009.)
View 14 Replies