Camry :: 2009 - Check Engine Light Is On And O2 Sensor Dead
Feb 15, 2013
My 2009 Camry check engine light is on. Dealer said the two O2 sensor both are dead and need to replace. After dealer reset the check engine light I have driven two days for 50 miles and the check engine light doesn't come back. If the O2 sensor is bad how long does it take for check engine light on again? Is it possible the check engine report on by mistake since two O2 sensors got bad at the exact same time is really rare.
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Wife has a 08 solara 2.4 auto. Check engine light is on for bad knock sensor in bank 1. Now car is not pulling itself, it takes off fine then shifts and falls on its face, I think its missing 2nd and going to 3rd. It is also not shifting into 5th so its staying in 4th and using a lot of gas. I tried manually shifting but it still goes to 3rd and will not go to 5th. I have been told this knock sensor could be causing it all. Cant clear code, I hit clear but nothing happens. We don't have a lot of money to pay the Toyota dealer to fix it and I can do all the work but they wont even show me where the knock sensor is.
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I own a 2000 Toyota Camry that was given to me by my father. The check engine light illuminated last year so I brought the car in to my mechanic. He said it was the o2 sensor and changed it. That lasted about a month , and the light went on again. This time it had to do with some valves that get stuck open (or closed) but also had to do with the amount of oxygen that goes into the carburetor . I asked my Dad if he had this problem, and he told me that the engine light was illuminated often, that he had brought the car in about 6 times, but nothing was found. Previously I owned a 1998 Camry, and had the same problem; the check engine light illuminates, the diagnosis is the oxygen sensor, that gets changed, the light goes on again, this valve thing gets changed but the light goes on again in a month. I can't get the car inspected with the engine light illuminated. The light always goes back on but nothing else is found wrong with the vehicle. I really know nothing about cars.
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My 2005 Camry check engine light is on. The trouble code is P0138, bank 1 sensor 2 oxygen sensor. Engine is the 2AF-ZE. Not a California emission car. Car is Japan built. It has two O2 sensors. What is the correct OEM part #? I believe it would be a Denso?
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This issue pertains to a 2006 Camry LE 4-cyl.
My check engine light came on - code P0032 (upstream O2 sensor). I bought a new sensor from O'Reilly Auto Parts. After installing the new sensor, the car would jerk while accelerating. This continued to happen until roughly 30 miles or so when the engine light came back on and the jerking stopped! I re-scanned the car and it showed the same error - P0032. I then erased the code, and the jerking issue resumed.
I assumed this was caused by a faulty O2 sensor. I returned and got another one. Same issue.
Is this the result of not getting an OEM sensor from the dealer? Or is there something else I should be worried about?
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My sister has a 09 camry le I4 and on her way home her VSC Trac off and check engine light came on. What the cause is ( she checked the gas cap )...
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Currently I haven't been tweaking anything to my car after driving to go and home I left to go get something to eat and after driving for a few min out of nowhere the engine light, brake and abs comes up. So I freak out a pull over to the nearest gas station and turn my engine off for 2 min and turn it back on and this time only the engine light come up. So I drove to autozone to get it scan and error p0500 comes up. Which means short circuit, vss and poor electricity something I am not exact but is it serious? Like I am freaking out right now.
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My wife called to tell me that her Camry would barely pull away from a standstill this morning. Very sluggish until about 2500 rpm, at which point she said it took off normally. This accompanied by the Check Engine light, which just appeared this morning. I haven't been home yet to check fluid levels or take a test drive. Anything in particular I should be looking for?
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So I went to start the car (2013 C3) and it wouldn't start. The batter was horribly dead (dim screen and would only go into POWER ON mode.) I charged the battery for like a half hour using a plug in charger using the hood terminals. When I tried to turn it on later, The only thing that came on was the check engine light (really dim) so it's not charged up enough yet obviously. The issue is now it won't turn off. That check engine light is still there. No other screens are on and the vehicle doesn't make any other noises (door ajar, etc.)
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For years, intermittently, my Check Engine Light was on steady. The Ford dealer tried four times (at a cost to me of nearly $400) but was never able to fix the problem. I was always able to get it smogged because I took it in during those periods when the light was functioning normally. But now I've got to get the car smogged again and the light is dead. Could be the bulb or something else. Should I take it to an electric shop or a regular mechanic? I understand that CEL issues are common to Fords of this vintage, but the Ford dealers haven't been useful.
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2nd battery in 2010 Sonata 4-cyl died on my wife last night. Got a new battery today and put it in. (Couldn't move car even to push as there wasn't enough juice left to get transmission out of Park). Started right up after battery replacement and ran engine at idle for probably a half hour. Engine seemed to run a little funny. Lost RPM's and sounded like it might die a couple of times, but it stayed running. Now the dreaded check engine light is on. I've had a couple of stop-starts since it began, so I'm not sure it's going to go away. Car seems to be running fine now. Is there a connection between the battery going dead (so dead I lost radio presets and trip odometer readings) and something fouling up the check engine system?
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My check engine light came on, I took the car to my usual mechanic, and he said the codes returned indicated that two cells in the batter were bad. (I just called to get the codes, but he's out of the office for about 30 minutes on a test drive...)
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I went out in the 9 degree temp this morning to start my car and take off for work. I sat down and hit the power button and some console lights came on. The gear lights were blinking with a square light around each letter (P, D, R, B...) and the pips on the fuel gauge were blinking, beeping during each blink. Also, the green light on the power button was blinking and the little light showing that the key was not in the car was also on but the key was beside me. I turned it off to try it again.
Before I turned it back on, I inserted the key in the slot and hit the power button again and just the Check Engine light came on and everything else was black. There was a slow tempo click-click-click-click... sound coming from under the hood and the Check Engine light was just sitting there. I tried to turn the car off but the power button was not doing anything. All I could do is let the Check Engine light stay on and the click-click-click-click... sound chirp away. I went back out in a couple hours and the battery was dead.
Just seeing if that might mean something specific before I go drop about $200 on a new 12v battery later today.
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I have a 06 chevy 3500 express van with a 6.0 engine. The engine light came on about the O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1 came up on the on the scan tool. It run great. how do I fix it
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I had a check engine light pop up and I went and got it checked out. Comes to be its a IAT sensor or bad connection with this sensor. I change the sensor and made sure the wires on it is all good. The question is, I still have the check engine light up, does the code need to be deleted? And what happens if the code gets deleted and problem is not fixed?
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The check engine light came on in my 05 so took my local shop and they checked the code and said it was the Idle Sensor. They were not able to make the repair. Since then the light went off for a few days then came back on. I now notice the gas motor does not turn off when I stop at a traffic light.
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My check engine light just came on around 7000miles on my 2014 IS350. Dealer says that I need a new O2 sensor. Just wanted to see if this is common and O2 sensor replaced within the 1st year?
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1989 toyota 4runner. O2 sensor is bad and has the check engine light on. No need to spend $100+ on the sensor. Is there a way to disable it so the light goes off?
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I recently purchased a 3.5 V6 Santa fe. The Check engine light keeps going on. I took it to a few shops and I am getting the same code. It is the O2 sensor in bank one. (I think the the code was po170.) The light keeps going on and off. All I can find are the same problems with different Santa Fe engines (2.7, etc. )... My SUV has 100,050 miles on it.
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I have a 2008 Camry Hybrid and recently got a "Check VSC System" warning light. A diagnostic resulted in a C0210 error code. The code is for a right rear speed sensor malfunction.
I had a local shop look at it and he replaced the hub accembly including the speed sensor. It didnt work. He and I took a ride and on his diagnostic tool, the speed reading for the right rear wheel was all over the place.
The next day he replaced it thinking that the new sensor was bad. This worked, however only for a day. Now the light had come on again with the same error.
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I have an 04 gx with a check engine light on I had the code read at auto zone. That tells me o2 sensor bank 2 sensor 1. I have already changed the sensor they said it was and still have the code. What is the correct location of this sensor?
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