Camry :: 2009 - Auto Transmission Not Engaging
Mar 27, 2015
2009 Camry SE 2.4L. I have been noting an unfamiliar vibration of sorts in my gas pedal for some time, but did not notice smells, overheats, noises, fluid loss, DTCs or anything. Today on my way to work I started to notice hard shifting. The RPMs would rev up, fall down and shift hard. At time the RPMs would climb to 5k before dropping back down then shifting. Got worse, then finally when I was trying to U turn across the road (was stopped in gear) I lost all gears. I could shift to any gear, engine RPMS would remain stable, but no movement. Pressing on the gas just hiked the revs.
I pushed it off the road, and killed the engine and could get it to engage for short periods then no gears again. Seems like if I let it sit for a bit it will work for a short while, then no gears again. Had it towed home. Trans fluid indicates full, no burnt coloring or smell to it. No indications of leaks. After the tow I was able to drive it up into my driveway.
For clarity, I can move the selector to any gear and that feels normal. The engine does not bog down. I simply am not engaging any gear. Thinking sensor? Maybe heat related?
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My wife has been using her mom's 07 Accent, the mom is 90 and hasn't been incapable of using it for a while now. I did an oil change (without paying much attention) I've never seen this type of car before. Oddly the oil level seemed outrageously over full and still dirty
Then upon driving it the automatic transmission was all wacky, not engaging at idle, then it abruptly chunking into gear...
So I check the transmission fluid level and it's not on the stick. Research here let me know SP-III is what I'd need. Then while surfing a youtube vid regarding this model's transmission it hit me in the face, I'd drained the automatic transmission fluid! Went to the Kia dealer got 3 quarts dumped it in there, drained the overfilled 5.5 quarts of old and new oil rectifying my mistake, which brings me to the reason for this post.
This 2007 car only has 24,300 miles on it and I mistook the automatic transmission fluid for outrageously dirty engine oil! I swear this stuff looks like it's fulla carbon black n burnt up. My question: is it normal for the trans-fluid to have such a degraded appearance in only 25,000 miles?
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Before taking to Ford or random trans shop just yet, looking for diagnosis recommendations (or an item or two to replace DIY). Torque converter bolts are broken or TC itself? Solenoid (but would expect a code)?
Issue: Doing 45MPH at the tail end of the 6hr drive, then engine simply revved and coasted to stop. No lurch, pop, noise felt like a manual transmission popped out of gear and into neutral. When the shift to R/D/L/4x4 hi/lo, can feel transmission engage. Engine revs and 'slips' are the best way to describe (no abnormal noise otherwise)I can feel it applying a very slight load (doesn't move, but can feel it try). No warnings/issues leading up to this in the 6yrs and 100k miles I have owned (has 174k miles now). No leaks/visible issues underneath.
Fluid is not burnt, the level is ok. Replaced (no flush) Mercon SP fluid at 125k when bulletproofing. No codes, including hard codes. Trans temp was 165 before/after, which is normal. All engine temps/values on Scanguage normal. SCT tune since bulletproof (though don't abuses it), set back to stock. Also disconnected pos/neg and touched both sets of cables together for several mins.
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I have aproblem with my 2007 Camry 2.4 SE automatic tranny at 88000 miles. I parked my car as usual,got back after 2 hours started the car normally pressed the brake pedal to engage D and....nothing happens. The lever moves freely from R to L but the light on the instrument cluster stays at P and the car won't budge!!!!! What could be the cause.
The tranny showed no signs of failure before,excpt a slight vibration while in Drive. What I should go checking before towing the car to dealer.Any fuses relays etc.?I mounted a back up camera lately and had to slice back-up wires in the trunk to do that ,could this be related?
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So, I have a 2009 Golf City (Canadian mk4.5) with the 09G 6 speed Tiptronic automatic transmission. It's at 80k kilometers and shifting fine, I can remember maybe one 1-2 slip bump a few weeks ago but that's it. Shifts in Drive, Sport or Tiptronic are smooth and forced downshifts are smooth as well. I do want to follow the US service interval of 40k miles, and of course, my dealership won't do anything with this transmission unless it's broken because "Your fluid lasts the life of the car sir!" That, of course, we all know is BS because every transmission wears, and I don't want millions little metal shards of hardened steel having a party on the inside of my transmission.
This being said, I know that you can do a pan out filter and fluid change, but your only getting about 5L of fluid of the 9L that the 09G has. Or I can pay a local trans shop to do a full flush without dropping the pan by tapping into the in/out fluid ports and flushing everything out. My worry about a flush is that it will take these little anarchist metal shards and put them in a spot where they get stuck and have an all out project X-style party with my solenoids, gears, and torque converter. And the filter still won't have been changed!
Or I do the former where I get the ECS Tuning kit, drop the pan and clean out these little bastards and put in a new filter and not worry about the last 4L of fluid that still might have some of these buggers in it...
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Just curious. is it possible to convert my auto camry to manual transmission? also, how much would it be? where can i go?
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I have 2009 Corolla XRS 5 speed automatic. I have 10,500 miles on it and I have had this transmission issue since I got the car. At times, while accelerating onto highways the car does not downshift. The car stays in 3rd gear up until 4,000 RPM. I can shift it by putting it in sport mode and shifting manually. It only does it sometimes but it does not seem normal.
Took it for my 1st service visit dealer said no codes came up on the computer and maybe it needed to be broken in. Went for 2nd service dealer told me no codes and no problems. I then wrote a letter to Toyota under the lemon law since it had 2 failed attempts at fixing it. They contacted me and said this may be normal. I do not see how it is normal.
Is it because it is a four cylinder that it has these problems? Usually it shifts correctly but I feel there is a defect but they said the computer would have codes stating problems and it does not.
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I have a 2010 LE with auto trans. This happens when I start the car first time in the day. I shift it to drive And it takes maybe 1.5 seconds to catch before I can drive it. Is this normal. Would a fluid change fix it?
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I have a 2010 corolla le with approx 54k miles. Should I have the trans serviced/flushed? Can I just do a drain and refill? Is it true that replacing the fluid will cause the trans to fail later on?
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My wife have a 2004 Camry SE V4 with auto transmission. She went to TJ Max yesterday and the car is stuck in park, we had to tow the car home. Pushing the Park override button does release it and allow me to shift and drive.
The car starts, head lights, cabin lights, radio and power lock works, BUT power window and AC/climate control does not work at all, dead, no power.
My brake lights work with the exception that one bulb is dead, has been dead for a long time without causing any issues. I pulled out ALL the fuses in cabin and engine, all the fuses are in good shape. I tried looking for a Brake fuse but there is none, tripled check the big fuses but none are blown. I also tried looking for the brake solenoid by the brake pedal but, I didn't know which one it was or where it is located.
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How to disable the auto door locks but I have the opposite problem. Mine were not enabled and I would like them to be. Looking for instructions for enabling the auto door locks? 2010 s, no smart key, manual transmission.
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We have a 2009 Matrix, 68000 miles. automatic transmission has a loud clunk when down shifting on a hill. Has only happened a few times and cant seem to make it happen. Am really concerned what this might be.
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My wife's 2004 V6 Camry is not happy. As you accelerate from a stop, the automatic transmission will go from first gear to second, and then sometimes just drop spontaneously into neutral. Because you are in the process of accelerating, the engine RPMs increase until you take your foot of the pedal. In the short trip to the dealership for testing, the problem seemed to reset itself when the car was fully stopped. Other times it just reengaged with the transmission on its own without stopping.
Each time the transmission disengages, another strange thing happens--the instrument panel goes bonkers. The speedometer needle drops to zero, but the tach keeps working. The ABS, check engine, and brake lights turn on.
The dealership had the car for several days and has only been able to scan codes indicating the ABS system and the rear wheel speed sensors. I'm skeptical--especially since the repair estimate is nearly $4,000! I'm taking the car to an independent shop tomorrow for a second opinion.
I can follow up with more details from the dealership's diagnostic report, but for now, all I can say is that the car has almost 100,000 miles and we haven't had a bit of trouble with it until now. I replaced the transmission fluid about 10,000 miles ago.
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Why does the automatic transmission stay in 3rd gear and not shift into overdrive until it gets warmed up? It is so annoying. This is the only car that has ever done this. Even the camry I don't think does this. Especially the fact that the rpms stay above 1k rpm until the engine is warmed up.
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I'm having a problem with acceleration on cold start. It's an auto transmission model. Car always hesitate and jerks a bit before accelerating. Also acceleration is slow.
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Going to replace motor mounts. Foot on brake and placed in gear engine flexes back about 2". Doesn't seem to flex side to side or forward. Replaced dog bone the metal in the middle of the bushing had a visible crack. Still flexes. I am confused about replacing them. Should I replace all including the 2 rear mounts? This is what I have read in many posts and been told by a trans shop. Can I just replace the front and dog bone? Parts guy told me that was all that I needed to do if it wasn't flexing side to side. These things are expensive 170- ea for oems so if I don't have to replace the rear I won't. However I don't want to trash the new ones cause I didn't replace them all.
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I would like to know how to check the fluid lever on this car I have been told there is a fill hole and that's where its checked, how this is done. I know they say its filled for life but I would like to know if its full or not...
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03 F150 2WD-I dropped tranny pan, changed filter, reassembled, put in 4 qts fluid. Checked dipstick, seemed to be overfilled, despite instructions to add 5 qts. Started truck, put it in reverse, went about 4 feet and then tranny wouldn't engage-ran it through all gears, just acts like in park or neutral. Over or Under filled???
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2004 Ford F250 CC 4x4 6.0L
Took the family down to the beach today. Had some tough sand to get across in a few areas to move away from the crowds. Got a little dicey and the truck got stuck in 2WD. Switched to 4WD but back tires kept spinning. Couldn't figure out why and the truck started to dig deeper in the sand. Got a little nervous and I didn't want to start the day off with having to get pulled out.
Got out of the truck, locked the hubs in manually and I was out, no problem. Left the hubs locked until we left the beach and back on pavement.
What might be the problem and why the "shift on the fly" switch on the dash didn't seem to engage the 4WD? I even tried to switch into 4L and back to 4H (truck in neutral, break pedal compressed) and still no workie. Only manually locking the hubs would engage the 4WD.
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I'm trying to figure out why my auto locking hubs do not engage. To isolate the problem shouldn't the hub engage if a vacuum is applied to that hub only? A solid 18 inHg is maintained at that hub for over 10 minutes but the selector will not rotate, which suggests to me the seals are OK. What then might be the problem?
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I have a 2000 f250 CCSB 4x4 with the ESOF auto hubs. The auto hubs won't engage automatically. They work fine manually. The transfer case is engaging and correct lights are coming on. There is a little bit of vacuum coming from the vacuum switch but it doesn't seem like much to me. All the dash HVAC controls work fine though. I Lubed and cleaned inside the hubs according to Guzzles directions.
While torn down, I blew through the vacuum port on the outside of the hub and there was little to no restriction. I don't think there is enough vacuum to pull the hubs, but is that possible if all the dash controls work fine? What pressure should it take to engage them? My next step is to pick up a vacuum pump and see if I can engage them with it.
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