Camry :: 2008 Will Shake While Sitting At Red Light - Rough Idle
Apr 10, 2013
When my Camry is in DRIVE and sitting at a red light for example, my car will shake. It feels like it idles rough. If I put it in neutral the shaking goes away... only when in drive.
I took it to Firestone who mentioned I had a dirty throttle body. So I get this cleaned and the shaking has significantly reduced. However after a few months I'm back at square one. Dirty throttle body and care is shaking again. (Yes air filter is clean)
I noticed two things that I think might be contributing... After 5,000 miles my oil is pretty black and very low. (Time for an oil change) When I swipe my finger on the exhaust pipe, its really black but no black smoke comes out. I don't see any oil leaks outside of the engine, its actually pretty clean.
So two questions, is the low oil and black exhaust pipe normal? Why would my throttle body keep getting dirty?
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I have an 2008 camry le i4 and every time I'm stopped at a red, the idle is so rough. would the dealer know anything about it to fix it? My car's about 2 months old and has 4000 miles on it
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I have a 95 honda accord 2.2L, 135,000 miles. One day while sitting at a light the car started vibrating due to a rough idle problem. The idle speed is ok at about 750 rpm.
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Friend of mine drives a 2008 Camry with 2GR FE engine, with 65 000 miles. When the engine is cold it runs fine but when is fully warm it idles low, in D or R at around 560-600 rpm. When he shift from P to R or from N to D, the idle goes down, not up like it should. The spark plugs are new, air filter is new. No CEL.
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4 cyldr has very rough idle along with engine shake. Just started doing this. I replaced the cam sensor a few months ago and all has been well. But it started running so rough, almost like it jumped time. I was disconnecting sensors to see if motor idle changed and when I unplugged mass air flow sensor on air filter intake tube, nothing changed. Could this cause such a dramatic idle ?
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I have a 2008 Camry, 2.4L, and used the spark plugs change DIY sticky and it seemed to go painlessly. However, after the new spark plugs, the car seems to idle rough. It has 95k miles, and I did the following in the same tune-up:
1. Changed Oil
2. Replaced Air Filter
3. Changed Spark Plugs
4. Cleaned Battery Terminals
5. Cleaned MAF Sensor
6. Cleaned plugs connecting to ignition coils
I used OEM Toyota plugs, and even called the dealer to see if the gap needed to be set. And they affirmed me that the gap is preset on these plugs.
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I have a 2008 Toyota Camry SE with the 2.4 engine and auto trans. If I'm stopped and in drive the engine feels as if it's going to stall, the entire car "shutters". The tach reads between 700 & 800 but if I place the gear selector into either neutral or park it becomes "glass" smooth, I even have to look at the tach to see if the engine is still running! In neutral or park the tach still reads 700-800 rpm and the A/C is always switched off.
I've had it to 2 different Toyota dealers and yesterday to my regular mechanic. 1st dealer said to disconnect the battery and bring everything back to default positions...no difference, battery was off for 35 minutes. 2nd dealer said to have the throttle body cleaned, which I did...no difference. A bit of background with the vehicle, I've had it since new, I drive 170 hiway miles per day, I use Shell branded fuel, oilchanges always at 5,000 miles, dealer serviced since new.
So yesterday my mechanic checked everything, engine mounts (OK), any error codes (none) cylinder compression (all within spec) spark plugs (OK except for 1 so I asked him to change them all), he installed 4 NGK iridium plugs and guess what...it still shutters & vibrates!!
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It is idling very rough at times, not all the time, when sitting at stop lights/signs. Sometimes it will stall out. 3 times it has stalled in the middle of an intersection while turning. Scary as hell! I Have to stop the van on the side of the road, put it in park, turn it off, then start it again before I can go. This process is getting Old!
While sitting at a stop sign/light, it's like the engine surges up and down. Some surges get low enough that the van will just die. If I step on the gas or put the van in neutral it will quit for a minute. All of the lights in, on, outside of the van go bright/dim with every surge. The battery light will occasionally flash on and off during the surges, but not every time.
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I have a 1997 Explorer Sport 4.0 SOHC, 110,000 miles. When I start it in the morning or after sitting for a few hours, the idle is very rough. Most of the time it wont even stay running. My first thought was a vacuum leak. I found four leaks and repaired them, including the EGR valve control and the EGR solenoid. One stem on each was broken off. I bought these parts from the dealer and then tested the vacuum, which I now have vacuum pressure. The check engine light is on and doesnt read the "system evap emission control pressure sensor low" (vacuum leak) anymore, but it now reads "system too lean (bank 1) and system too lean (bank 2). I cleaned the IAC valve and have ran several bottles of injector cleaner through. My mechanic thinks it is the IAC, but when you disconnect the plug on it, the car will barely idle, so it must be working at least a little. I have seen suggestions for a fuel filter, which I am going to replace, but I am really lost here.
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To start off I have replaced the MAF sensor in this car 3 times now, and have all new oxygen sensors and a new fuel pump. The most recent MAF sensor I have put in the vehichle was 2 months ago and I did it because The car would die while idling, however the mass air flow code did not show up on the cars diagnostic trouble codes. Yet this did solve the problem. The previous MAF sensor had been installed a year ago and failed on me, it was under warrantee. Now that I have installed this newest MAF sensor the car has been running fine until last month.
Since then It runs especially rough at idle and has a tendency to die when sitting for more than a minute in idle. This problem is on and off however, it can run fine one day and as soon as i start it up the next day the problem will reoccur. Now I am getting the DTC for the throttle position sensor, evaporative emission control valve, and throttle position sensor. And more recently, today the problem occurred again, the first time in a week, and now I am getting gray smoke out of the tailpipe. I would like to know if I should again, try to replace the MAF sensor, or if there is some other problem that the Sentra is prone to that I am unaware of.
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This is my brother's 02 SE. 140k miles. 4cyl. He claims that the car is beginning to idle rough when he is stopped at a stop light and the AC is on. If i replace the spark plugs should that do it? I'm pretty sure it doesn't have spark plug wires cus that's what my dealer parts dept said. Motor mounts were replaced around 70k if that matters. The vibration is directly related to the AC being on.
I am also going to replace the serp. belt because there's a belt squeak when the motor is cold.
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I have a 2007 F150 with the 5.4 FFV. Early last summer my truck started acting like the harmonic balancer was going bad, when it was hot out my engine would shake at an idle. Then in October it threw a check engine light, wouldn't get over 20 mph and was shaking the entire truck. The codes said my timing was out so I replaced the timing chains, guides and tensioners, which were bad on the passenger side. When I started it back up it ran rough, and the check engine light came back on with a "bank A over-retarded" code.
So I went back in thinking I had put the chain on one tooth off. Got it back together and it ran the same way. After doing some soul searching on this website I determined the VCT Solenoid for the driver's side may be bad, and I went back in a third time and replaced the solenoid. Now it runs worse than it did the first time, it won't even idle and it is nearly impossible to start in the first place... This truck only has 103,000 miles and was running great before this...
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I have a great vw 2008 rabbit with 115,00 miles on her. I just completed a round trip. On my way back during terrible stop and go Washington DC traffic..I noticed the car started to rev a bit. After that the idle has been rough with some light shaking. No engine light, but it does sound almost like it is choking a bit. Not extreme..but definitely not the smooth engine sound I had. I am guilty of NEVER HAVING MAINTENANCE on her..so I had new spark plugs put in and a new air filter. The problem is less..but the idle is still on the rough side.
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Truck (04 excursion, 2WD, early build 6.0, 160k) started missing and rough idle on way home from work after sitting all day in rain - parked. started fine in morning and drove to work with no trouble - it was raining over night too.
To get you up to speed. for a few weeks before had intermittent trouble starting. would fire up as normal, fast and loud, but then stall immediately (usually after sitting overnight). would start back up but with a little long on the key and some gas pedal action. only happen one out of ten or twenty starts and seemed to follow getting fuel in unknown locations while on a trip out of town. decided to change out fuel filters and drain separator. seemed to fix it for a week or so then it happened again two days before above event, while weather was dry. Not sure if related but only recent problem to speak of.
Back to current:
- no check engine light or codes (I have a scanner)
- stalled out close enough to home the night in question I rolled it into driveway and tried to start it while rolling in neutral - no start
- once parked in driveway also no start
- next evening wanted to get it into garage (to dry off) and it started but rough idle and missing. this was after 24 more hours sitting in rain.
- been in garage 24 more hours and this evening got it to run but same result (rough idle and hard start). tried to check connections (mainly FICM) and move wire loom around - still same.......
Where to check next, need some diagnostic...
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Yesterday my mom used my car and the battery light came on while driving, but she didn't really care about it and was driving the whole time on the battery. When she came back home the car was barely even alive I couldn't even start it. I replaced the alternator (duralast from auto zone) and the serpentine belt, but now I have a very rough idle and the rpm's are lower than usual. They are 1500 instead of 1750. Is this normal and eventually it'll go away or did I mess something up?
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I have a '94 Camry that has not been started in a year. I'd like to either see if I can get it running again or donate it somewhere. But I heard recently that the onboard computer in a Camry has to be restarted if it's been idle a certain time. I've tried unsuccessfully to get any life signs when I tried to jump start it. Is this computer issue true?
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I just purchased a 2008 passat, 2.0T 6spd manual last night and I noticed today, when sitting at a stop sign it has slight idle issues, (goes up about 200-400rpms) then back down to normal idle. Doesn't seem to be causing any issues, its just pretty annoying, and everyone next to me thinks I'm trying to race them.
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I have a 2003 SC430 with 170,000 miles on the odo. When at idle, the car shakes a little. I notice it the most when at a red light. But if I put the car in N, the shaking goes away. It happens with the most severity when in D and with my foot on the brake. I'm assuming the shake is normal for a car of this age and mileage, but i'd like to eliminate it.
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Sometimes when my car as sitting at an idle in either drive or reverse the motor starts to make a knocking noise from the back of the motor towards the firewall side on the top of the motor. I have a video. The car has 114k I just changed the oil I thought maybe it's low but it's not and hasn't moved since it was changed.
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I have a 2012 Elantra that I bought used with 15,000 miles on it. Since the day I bought it I have had different issues with it but one of my huge issues is that when in idle at a light or sitting still anywhere my car shakes like someone is bouncing a basketball in it. I have taken it to the dealership multiple times and they have replaced PCV Valve and cleaned it before replacing it and they have done some other things as well to it. I have gone to just talking to the service manager every time I go to service because I have taken my car in for the same issue every time!! I usually wait til there are multiple reason to go to the dealership before I take it back in because they never fix the issue!!
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I started noticing a strange idle when stopping or sitting at a red light. Upon stopping the car idles at around 600, then all of a sudden it jumps to around 1000-1100, and sits there as if I was giving it gas. As I drive off the car drives fine, once I stop again, the same thing repeats. This happen to me 2-3 times already within the past month, I mostly drive on the highway, so that might be a reason I don't notice it often.
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