Camry :: 2008 - Turn Temp Knob To Hot But No Heat Is Coming
May 30, 2014
I have an 08 camry v6, from time to time i've noticed when i turn the temp knob from cool to hot it would blow cool. Now it's happening all the time no heat at all just blows cool air when heat is on in all modes.
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I have owned my 2008 yaris sedan since new. With the temp knob turned to full cold, the air coming in (all vents I think) is always warmer than the outside air. This is annoying; I am forced to turn on the air conditioner even when the outside air is just right. I suspect that an internal flapper valve of some sort is not seating properly and is leaking warm air.
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My 99 windstar has seemed to have issues every month since it's been paid off! Isn't that how it goes....anyway,
Just recently the heat suddenly stopped working. The fan is blowing and the temp controls seem to function correctly. There is no heat coming from the front and some IS coming from the back.
What could the problem be? Blend door, actuator, motor, evaporator core?
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I bought a 2015 Camry LE, with manual AC.
I just noticed that every time I turn the temperature knob, there is a small buzz/hiss noise come from the center console. the more you turn the knob, the noise last longer, however, the sound disappear soon once you stop turning the knob.I tested this when the car is parked with power on but engine is not running, this noise is also noticeable in City drive if you audio is off.
I did some research and know that it is from the Heat blend door actuator/Air mix door motor. When you change the temperature, the motor is going to change the direction of the heat blend door.
My questions is : Is this noise noticeable on every Camry?
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My 2008 250 suddenly lost ability to adjust temp control of heat and A/C. I can adjust the fan speed and the defrost/dash vents/foot heater position controls, but no matter how far I turn the cold/hot dial left or right, the temp is the same. Even in the Max and Norm A/C setting, it's the same temp, which is stuck in the hot range.
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I have the base 2011 GTI heating system. In the morning I'll get into the car. Fan is off. Temp is in the middle between blue and red mark. I start the car. Then I turn the temp dial to all the way hot. Then I drive until the car is warmed up fully and turn the fan on. The fan will now blow cold air until I rotate the temp knob back and forth. As soon as I rotate the knob heat starts blasting out within seconds. I can leave it alone the entire 30 minute ride to work and it will never warm up unless I move the temp knob.
AC switch and recycle switch are both off. It has happened with the vents in the defog and normal top vents open positions. Seems like either a faulty knob or software bug to me.
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I have a 99 B5 and the lights for the Heater Temp Knob, the AC/ heater Fan Knob and the blower direction knob are all out. The fuses are OK. I have checked that.
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The vents in my 2002 Prius are starting to become problematic. When I turn on the heat, the air is not coming out. When I hit the glove compartment, the air starts to come out, but it is very low and stops after a minute or two. I just want to know if the blower motor is dying, and how to replace it, if it is really the blower.
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Ive been hearing some noises coming from the right side of the dashboard when I turn the heat on. Then last night, smoke/steam started coming through the vents with a strong odor. Popped the hood and there is some smoke coming from behind the engine as well. Sounds like the heater core but why the smoke from the engine? Temperature gauge reads as normal and I have no lights on the dash.
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'98 4runner, 4 banger, auto tranny. The heat/cold selector knob won't rotate but about one quarter around from cold to hot on the graduated color scale. Just won't rotate any further. How easy is it to replace this thing?
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I have a 2010 chevy silverado. No matter where I turn the blower selector switch, it always comes out of the vents. Also no matter where I turn the temperature selector knob, it's always cold. It's a company truck that I can't get fixed soon because of downtime and I'm not supposed to take it to get fixed on my own time. It was 37 degrees this morning on my drive into work.
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I have 02 camry xle with digital a/c , the a/c only works on max cold, if i set the temp to 65 ot 70 ot any number it will become heat ,
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When I start my 2011 Hyundai Sonata Limited the left temperature control knob flashes intermittently for a few seconds. See 17 second video. This has been happening for the past three weeks. What is causing this and how to repair it?
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On my 03 Camry (1MZ-FE engine) I noticed a few weeks ago that my engine wasn't coming up to temp as fast as normal. It was taking an additional 10-20min. Took it to my mechanic saying I had a potential faulty thermostat. They said they observed the thermostat opening and closing but coolant was a little low, which they topped off for me. Didn't replace anything or charge me for their services.
Now it's two weeks later and my CEL comes on. Take it to Autozone and I get codes P0128, P0420, P0430. So it would seem that my assumption was right on the faulty thermostat. But now I need to know how the other two codes are related to the thermostat. Based on what i have read, if the engine doesn't come up to temp right away, the computer will deliver more gas to the engine, thus creating a richer mixture, which in turn is not good for the catalyst system.
Could it be possible that just by replacing the thermostat (which i am going to do tomorrow) would cause the other codes to disappear? I'm thinking that I should, in this order:
- Replace thermostat
- Replace one (or both O2 sensors) (upstream or downstream first?)
- Replace converter
I've also read that you can offset the O2 sensors out of the exhaust stream to fool the engine, while still maintaining acceptable emission levels (due to Toyota having a higher than normal acceptable level).
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I have a 2008 Camry Hybrid and the rear muffler heat shield has come loose and is about to fall off. The car is running great and has had no real issues.
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I've had this 2012 SE I4 for about 6 months, but since it has been cold, I've noticed that when switching heat to floor vents only mode, that most of the air still flows through the upper vents (I'd estimate about 50% still flows through the upper vents).
I've taken a thermometer and read 80F coming out of top vent and about 60F coming out of the bottom.
When driving my face/body feel like they are on fire but feet still remain cold. Took to the dealer and they said there is a temp/and airflow difference but appears normal.
If this is normal, it is totally different than any other car I've owned. Does most of the air still come out of the upper vents when on floor vent only?
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I have a 2008 Camry SE with about 118K miles
I have replaced the Water pump and the temp sensor recently.
The problem is when you turn the thermostat control to hot on the HVAC dial only warm air blows and it is only warm when the engine is revved or going down the road.
My question is: Is the door on these electronically controlled or vacuum controlled? it is like the blend door gets stuck and is not closing fully or something.
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I have a Grand Am SE 2001 and recently, since I got home from college for break, there has been no noticeable heat, and the engine temperature gauge is reading below 100. I checked the heat of the input and output hoses near the firewall and both were warm (warmer than the air blowing in the car) but not hot to the touch and this was after 10 minutes of driving 40 mph. Right now my only ideas are the thermostat or the heating core, what to look for? I'm not sure, short of replacing both, how to progress. Also wondering if driving it in this state is bad for the vehicle, I can't seem to find anything wrong with the engine and all other parts are working fine, not much chance to fix it for a few days.
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I have no heat in the LS at no settings. The AC runs good but does not seem to be regulated as it blows cold at any temp setting. The fan responds to settings but i still get no heat even with the AC turned off. I would like to find a diagram that shows the locations of the bleed valves to start a coolant air bleed.
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I am having a heat problem...first my temp gauge never goes above 160...second...my return heater hose is not hot...my upper radiator hose is tight when I squeeze it.
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I have noticed in my 2009 Honda Accord that the temperature of the heated air coming out of the dash vents drops when I select "all dash" as opposed to "mix dash and floor." It's significant enough to notice as it blows on my hands. But the dealer says the difference is within 5 degrees, which is within specs, so they won't do anything.
I don't think I can measure it myself since I can't fully jam my thermometer in the dash vent, so any reading would be contaminated by ambient temperature.
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