Camry :: 2008 Toyota CE - P0101 Code After Replacing Spark Plugs
Jul 22, 2015
This past Sunday, I replaced the spark plugs on my 2008 Toyota Camry CE, following one of the sticky DIYs. My car has approximately 107,xxx miles.
Last night on my drive home from work my CEL came on. First time seeing a CEL light since my BMW days, . Luckily, I have a OBDII scanner at home and after running the scanner, it gave me the following trouble codes:
- P0101
- P0172
I went ahead cleaned the air filter (I have an Injen SRI installed).
After doing some research on the interwebs, I have concluded that this code has to do with the MAF. Time permitting, I am going to clean the MAF sensor later tonight. In the meantime I reset the CEL, to see if it will come on again.
My only question, which I am unable to find an answer to, is:
Can there be a possibility that the P0101 and P0172 trouble codes be related to me replacing the spark plugs, or is this just a mere coincidence?
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I have a 2006 Toyota camry v6 1mz-fe engine. My buddy changed the all 6 spark plugs using Toyota oem denso.
The car drive weird after that. When I am on the stop light, the car is shaking ( coming from the engine area ).
When I am driving 60 mph, it shakes .
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My old 1996 Camry with 2200 cc 4 cylinder engine, frequently keeps losing power to the spark plugs. I have changed the fuel filter and the ignition coil. That did not work. I also noticed that the car was starting when I unplug and replug the primary wire plug to the ignition coil. So I have replaced the primary power plug with a six inch pigtail and a used plug purchased from a salvage yard. This is not working either. The Toyota dealer near my house want to replace the igniter and the Engine Control Module just to be sure that these are not the sources of problem. The dealer did not test these parts. So I refused to replace the parts without a proper test. I would like to test these parts. Is there a test available for the igniter and ECM that could be performed. I have access to a lot of tools. I need a schematic and/or test to test these components.
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I have a 2008 Camry, 2.4L, and used the spark plugs change DIY sticky and it seemed to go painlessly. However, after the new spark plugs, the car seems to idle rough. It has 95k miles, and I did the following in the same tune-up:
1. Changed Oil
2. Replaced Air Filter
3. Changed Spark Plugs
4. Cleaned Battery Terminals
5. Cleaned MAF Sensor
6. Cleaned plugs connecting to ignition coils
I used OEM Toyota plugs, and even called the dealer to see if the gap needed to be set. And they affirmed me that the gap is preset on these plugs.
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I am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
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I just replaced spark plugs and now it is running rough and reduced engine power light is on. did not mix up wires or coil packs. did one at a time.
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I just changed my spark plugs the other day and since then my engine is hard idling and skips and jumps while I'm driving it. I'm being told I either need to change the spark plug wires or the coil packs. So my question is which do I need to change? And is there anyway to test which one I need to replace?
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I had the 2010 Camry I-4 in the dealer last week for the 40K service. They told me I needed fuel injector cleaning and a throttle body housing cleaning which I had done. This afternoon the check engine light came on and at the same time the Slip Indicator light came on.
I ran by Auto-Zone to have them pull the code for the check engine light and it was P0101 which AZ says is Mass or Volume Airflow circuit range and listed probable causes as:Open or short circuit condition, MAF/VAF sensor failure, or Faulty ECM. I called the dealer for an appointment Thursday morning and told him the story and asked if the throttle body or injector cleaning could cause the mass air flow problem. He said "probably not". He also told me that when the Check Engine light comes on the Slip indicator light automatically comes on to show that the VSC is not working while the check engine light is on.
My question is, could the cleaning cause the P0101 and if so what info do I need to argue the case with the dealer? Or, are they unrelated systems?
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The check engine light on my 2006 Toyota Camry LE with 95,300 miles came up. The codes that came up on my diagnostic tool were p0011, p0101, and p0113. The code meanings are as follows:
p0011: refers to the VVT (variable valve timing) or VCT (variable camshaft timing) components and the car's power control module
p0101: problem with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit
p0113: possibly issues with the Intake Air Temperature Sensor
How to solve the issue and get that annoying check engine light off?
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I'm trying to turn the crankshaft by hand to verify my timing belt alignment, but meeting some resistance. is this because I have the spark plugs in? do i have to take them out to turn the crank? also, that little groove in the belt guide doesn't seem to line up with anything or get held by the rib on the crankshaft. does that matter, or have i got it installed wrong?
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my wife drives a 2008 toyota camry 4cyl. she has about 86000 miles so i figured i would do a little tune up. change plugs, filters, injector clean, etc. while changing the plugs i seem to have broken 3 of the 4 pressure tabs on the plugs that plug into the coil. for the time being i have the pressure tap electrical taped very tightly onto the plug. What I should do? or is that common to for those to break off. I didn't even really use a lot of pressure either.
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'03 Solara 4 cyl, 135K repl. Fuel pump, 45# press ok, NO scan tool code(s), turns over fine, no spark 2 plug. Started/ran fine before fuel pump change.
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OK, well i have an old toyota pick up, One of the spark plugs ( the third cylinder) has some oily residue on it, indicating a problem with the piston. How bad could this be? Is it worth it to try and have fixed? I also am rebuilding my carb right now, so i am wondering if i is even worth continuing if the engine is messed up.
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Sstripped threads using an impact to remove the plugs?
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Two of my plugs locking clips broke today on the wire harness side where the coil over plugs into the harness today while changing spark plugs. They will plug back up, but they won't lock together like they are suppose to. How critical is this? It is my wife's car will she break down? I drove the car maybe twelve miles, and everything seemed fine.
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Just replaced the spark plugs and coils yesterday, today it gives P0113 code, Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor - high input Wiring open circuit/short to positive, ground wire defective, IAT sensor, ECM...
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My '07 had the check engine come in the other day, engine misfire. I took it to the dealer hoping it was a coil, due to the 100,000 mi warranty from Ford I was hoping would be covered. Sadly, and of course, all coils tested fine, turns out 2 plugs were bad. They replaced all 8 plugs, plus a plug boot. Not one plug broke (truck had 80k on it) so no extra cost there. So much more, but peace of mind that all the plugs are new one piece plugs is great. He recommended that they should be replaced every 60k to avoid any issues.
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I am a newbie here, and also a new owner of a 2006 F150 XLT 4X4 with the 5.4 engine. It has 68K miles on it and looks to have been well cared for. I have a couple questions. First the truck is runnig great, no problems. I have read the threads regarding the spark plug issues and was looking for an opinion about changing them. Should I wait until I have problems, or due to the age of the truck, should I go ahead and attempt it soon? Also, I would like to find a used cap for the bed. I have the 6.5 bed, and wondered what range of years would work with my truck.
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2004 5.4L ... Codes indicate a firing issue on #4 cylinder, figure it's the coil pack. They bought truck used a few years ago and plugs have not been changed since they have owned it. I was going to change plugs while I was under the hood. While checking threads on this engine I picked up on plugs being a major job unless you know the tricks. So what tricks do y'all have up your sleeve to keep from breaking plugs?
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I've recently had a small issue with my truck missing under hard load. If you're going around 40 MPH and push it down like merging it will kick back and forth and sputter and then start hitting fine again after a few seconds and move on. Possibly bad sparkplugs and/or wires?
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I recently replaced the spark plugs on my 2002 Camry SE V6 (Gen 5). Let me just say that it was INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to reach the rear 3 plugs as they sit underneath the intake manifold, way to the rear of the engine compartment. To reach those, I had to unplug some wires reaching on top of the engine, then loosen the intake manifold.
Along the way I broke a tiny air valve that sits underneath intake manifold, and replaced it right away, before starting the car.
When everything was put back together, the car started wonderfully, only to notice the engine light come on. I had the codes checked at the dealer and they indicated a malfunctioning Catalytic Converter and A/F Sensor and some other emissions stuff. Later that day, the VCS/TRAC OFF light came on as well. The service guy at the dealer said those typically come on together with the Check Engine light, which sounds like something he pulled out of somewhere!
The car drives well, no hesitation, no weird behavior, but has no traction control, naturally. While loosening the manifold I had to use a little force to flex it out of place. My guess is that it I may have yanked something out place: may be a wire issue, or a sensor.
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