Camry :: 2008 - Steering Wobbles When Brake
Mar 11, 2013
Brake issue I am facing. Last year maybe 13 months ago i changed my front rotors along with new brake pads. (centric rotors and hawks ceramic pads on both the fronts). Now after 11000 miles my cars has same issue that i had a year ago. Which is when i brake the steering wobbles. last year the mechanic said it was due to warped rotors, so we replaced everything cuz he said it was too bad to resurface it. Now after 11k miles same problem. And the local tune up shop said my brake fluid is low as well. My two younger sibling drive this car as well .
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1992 buick riviera 3.8L
So working on the steering column I had to remove the lock plate. Everything went well with my repair, I have the turn signal switch installed but I can not for the life of me get the lock plate spring pushed down far enough to slip in that little ring. I believe the part I am having trouble with is the top bearing inner race. Here is a link to how this looks exactly on my car.
[URL] ......
AS soon as i took off the spring that pushes the lock plate I noticed this race was just loosely sitting and the steering column just wobbles around. What am I doing wrong?
I did this in this order. I just moved the top bearing inner race as far back as it will go (it still just wobbles around with the steering column). then I put the spring in so that it touches the race. finally I place in the lock plate and compress it with the lock plate tool. However it simply will not compress enough for me to slip in the ring and lock it in place. Am i doing something wrong ? Is there some part of the bearing that should go in before this race?
The picture with the red background is how I am inserting these parts. The spring sits on this race but I cant compress it enough. Like i cant get it aligned properly or something.
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For the past month or so, I've noticed an unsettled "wobble" of the front end of my 2015 GTI SE PP when backing out of my driveway and turning the steering wheel. It feels like the front end is extra nose-heavy (yes, it's a front wheel drive car- I get it) or like the steering is too boosted and is over steering beyond my inputs. I am now noticing it when I enter a driveway going forward with the front wheels turned.
Tires (the god-awful all-seasons) are at 37psi, alignment should be fine (no potholes, curbs or off-road excursions) on a 4-month old car. No suspension mods yet. I had each side up on jack stands looking for suspension pucks in the front and found none. This is really impacting my enjoyment of the car and what to check. I'll be putting the front up again this weekend to look for any bent suspension pieces or loose parts.
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I have a 2007 hyundai elantra gls (80,000miles) that shimmies at 12 and 40 mph. The steering wheel stays still but the rest of the car wobbles.
I've replaced the tires and the rims and had them rotated, balanced and hub rings put on.
I've also replaced the motor mounts. (This is probably unrelated but I also just had the serpentine belt, water pump, and all the other belts replaced as well.)
I can hit the gas and get through the wobbly speeds and it seems to be fine....but I drive around 40 mph most of the time!
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I have a 2012 Explorer Limited with 95K miles. Under medium to hard braking, the steering wheel wobbles, and the car slows irregularly. I'm struggling to find the best word to describe. It's not a vibration or a shudder. It's like a pulsing that is slow enough to be counted. The car doesn't pull to a side under braking, either.
I put a dial indicator on both rotors, and they are nearly perfectly flat. There is no evidence of a leak anywhere. The only think I noticed is that the DS caliper had a little more pressure on the rotor, making the rotor harder to turn than the PS rotor.
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I have a F250 SD with a 6.0 diesel. My steering wheel is loose. I tested and know for sure is not a problem inside the cabin. Fallow the line thru the linkage to the steering box by the left front wheel. I found an adjustable switch there. Just on top of the steering box. It has a lock nut that must be loosen to adjust what it looks like a hex. Very hard to reach. I have watch some Youtube videos but on different vehicles.
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I have a 1999 f350 7.3. I'm having a problem where the steering wheel shakes back and forth and the whole truck wobbles. It happens at all speeds, but shakes faster at faster speeds, slower at slower speeds. At first the wheel was just jerking randomly but then I made a right turn, heard a pop, and then it was shaking like crazy. I jacked up the truck and checked the ball joints, checked for and play in the tie rods, and turned the wheel left and right. Everything seems ok so I can't figure out what is causing to wheel to go back and forth.
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I purchased a new 2000 mazda b4000 2 weeks ago and the belt was squeaking and I knew I had to change the water pump so I replaced it and the squeaking didn't went away... I thought maybe my idler pulley bearing was worn out cause I could see it wobble back and fourth when the engine was running... Replaced it, still squeaking! Change my belt still squeaking! look further turns out my power steering pulley wobbles slightly. I'm thinking about trying a gator back belt and see if the squeaking goes away. Could it be dangerous to run the truck as it with a slight misalignment in the power steering pulley? or it'll be a must replacement asap?
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I had a line blow on my steering rack, and I was taking it to the garage well I decided to add some power steering fluid but instead I added it to my brake system , (yes I know it was bonehead move on my part when I do know the difference). Any ways I drove my 2008 jeep liberty about 5 miles to the garage, they are changing my rack and pinion because the initial problem, but my question is do I bite the bullet and change the master cylinder, brake lines and calipers??? I do a lot of driving on highways , and I am been getting mixed answers yes change it all and no just flush it out.
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I had been driving around with gallons of ATF in my trunk for a year until I recently had the power steering pump changed on my 1996 Toyota Camry (which spent many winters sitting outside up in Canada), and now the leak seems worse. I brought it to my mechanic who wants $800 to change a leaky rack & pinion and a hose. But I am but a poor, unfortunate grad student and so I have no more money to put on this old, yet beloved car! So he suggested I put in a combination of ATF and brake fluid, which might slow down the leak. What say you? Will I ruin my newly acquired power steering pump or make matters worse?
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Im working on my buddies 2005 F150 FX4. In the midst of buttoning everything up and calling it a day I happen to see fluid dripping. The OEM steel brake line had been rubbing on the steering shaft and while doing the brakes, must of busted through all of the way.
I have been to Advance and Napa at least 4 times trying to match stuff up. Nothing works from either of them.
Called Ford and talked to a parts guy who lacked general automotive knowledge and finally had to pull up there diagram to show him the correct part. He told me that part is discontinued and cannot be ordered.
It is #2264 in this diagram.
2005 Ford F-150 Front Brake Hydraulic Hose | FordParts.com
I have the factory fittings and everything to make a new line. I cannot find tube that is 5.20mm or .20". Everything I find in a roll is either 3/16 or 6mm.
The fitting is a 12mmx1.00 on the ABS brain. The caliper hose appears to be a 3/8x24. A 10mmx1.00 which is standard metric 3/16 tube nut is to big for the OEM caliper hose. A standard 3/16 flare wont seat on the caliper hose.
So it seems like what Ford did here was.... a 12mmx1.00 on a 5.20mm tube to a 3/8x24 to a caliper hose that wont seat with out 5.20mm tube.
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My 2010 Camry (4 cyl, auto) die again and again while I am driving. It is a big safety issue and I am wondering about the Toyota Quality. Why Toyota haven't fixed this serious issue. The brake stops working and the steering become really hard to move. So, there are very good chances of serious accident.
I went to a Toyota dealership and they replaced the battery and its cable and reset the check engine and skid control lights and told me to drive a while to see whether problem persists. Later same day both lights came again and car started doing the same. On my way back I went to Auto Zone to check the codes (because Toyota dealer closed at 4:00 on Sat) and I got the codes P0101 and P0171.
I will take it to the Toyota dealership again but I am seriously thinking to change this unreliable car with 73K miles.
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What size sockets do I need in order to complete a brake pad replacement for my rear brakes?
Also, what are the torque specs for each bolt I will be refastening?
And just in case a bolt breaks... what size bolts are used on the calipers?
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I bought my 2008 last year at 23,000 miles. They brake pedal will go pretty low to the floor and the brake pads do not bite good. Now at 40,000 miles is doing the same thing. I was in downtown a couple of times and I had to slam on the brakes as traffic is crazy. It would not stop and keep on rolling. It was really scary. I am pretty sure it has the original brake pads. I can change the pads but I have a feeling that there is air in the lines. The brake fluid in the reservoir has never dropped. I believe it has ABS. Anything special on 2008 model with ABS ? I will try to bleed it and also changed the pads. My question is, is it possible to have air in the lines at 23,000 miles ?
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Just recently purchased a used Toyota Camry , i love it. So far everything is great about it, only negative part is that i feel when i turn the steering wheel like a knocking sensation and you can also hear it. Its not the normal grinding sound other people are experiencing. It feels like theres something loose in the steering column. Also while I am driving i can hear like a thump on the right front suspension. normally this sound when i am going over bumbs. Is this like the shocks or something?
Just in case i have a 2008 Toyota Camry SE.
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I notice that yesterday when it was raining and i wanted to start air conditioner and the ON/OFF and temperature UP/DOWN buttons don't work when i drive straight but when I turn just a bit it does ....
Check the video : [URL] ......
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2002 camry: my boyfriend just told me he accidentally added power steering fluid to the brake reservoir a couple monthes ago....while i floored it on highway, i only reached 40, when let off gas, car came to a quick stop. later i jacked up rear and was able to turn back tires to rule out e-brake being stuck,when car is in nuetral and pushed (forward or backward) it comes to a stop whithin a foot or so ( it seemed like the brakes were being depressed) possible transmission or brake issue?
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My 2008 Camry sometimes when I am driving the brake and ABS panel lights comes on and the A/C starts blowing hot air, also all the panel starts behaving crazy. We put the scanner and it does not show any issues, otherwise the car runs smooth.
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I have an 08 camry v6 with 29500 miles, I've noticed 3 issues that are happening at this point.
1. When I hit 70 mph the steering wheel shakes, I had new tires installed at 25K and smooth braking. The shaking also goes away if I go above 85 mph.
2. I have two plastic Dashboard screws under the black cover that rests around the dash that keep falling out and I cant tighten them back in.
3. My drivers side mirror is vibrating when I start to drive at idle it's fine.
Other than that the car drives great..
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our mechanic told us we had bad belts in our tires, and we should replace them. So we did. Over $500 later, the car still wobbles. It only happens on acceleration, and it starts somewhere around 40 mph, gets worse as I drive faster, and then around 55 mph it goes away. It does not happen on deceleration. We've seen posts on other pages where people have replaced CV joints, both front wheel bearings, both axles, tie rods, control arm bushings... but that doesn't solve the problem.
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I have a wobble in steering at 55 mph and have gone thru 2 sets of tires. After 1st set i changed front struts, no luck . When i rotate tires from rear to front it goes away for 6 months and tires start to wear wavy and wobble starts.
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