Camry :: 2008 - Security Ignition Inhibitor Becomes Lock / Tripped System
Dec 10, 2014
My 2008 Camry XLE(No after market systems) has locked out my dad several times now when he's parked and left the vehicle. We replaced his keyless remote dongle battery with a new one just in case. The light that blinks a red key on the dash to indicate the key is nearby turns solid red. I've yet to be the one locked out, but can't imagine what he'd do to lock it out as he's mechanically and electronically savvy. Can't reproduce the problem.
The only way we can get it to unlock the inhibitor is to jump the car battery. The dealer claims that we should only have to walk away from the vehicle out of range of the remote and back into range for the inhibitor to "untrip". I don't believe them because we replaced the car battery one time and it tripped the system and we had to get a jump even then to unlock it.
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I have been having issues with a security malfunction in my car. Every great once in a while, most of the time when it rains, my security function in my car gets tripped and I am unable to start my car. The security light on my dash lights up and I have to wait 5-10 minutes for it to go off before I can start my car. I'm sure it's just a bad fuse but it can be very inconvenient sometimes and make me late for work! Where to even begin to look and I'm afraid if I start pulling wires that I might get locked out of my car completely.
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I have a Lexus RX 330 2006. Two days ago my key couldn't start the car he stuck inside the ignition. I ordered a locksmith guy and he open the auto meter so he can get to the ignition. Now the ignition working but when I try to start the car the car doesn't start. The security system turn on and off , it's seem like the car doesn't recognize the key, the guy also make a new key and program the car but still the car is not charging, I also order mechanics to see if somethings wrong with the car and he didn't see any problem . I think the car shut down and I need professional guy who know how to program the car...
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I am new to a 2005 camry SE V6 3.3 lt, Today tested the security system by; locking the doors using the keyfob and waiting for 30 seconds for the system to arm itself then opening the door from inside the car. No alarm went off !!
The security Red LED on the dash works properly and shows no sign of malfunction. I am not sure how to start troubleshooting.
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Took my '08 F450 super duty into a reputable snow plow dealership and had them install a brand new plow on my truck. They phoned me this morning to say that the truck's security system does not recognize the key, possibly caused by the fact that they had to disconnect the battery during the plow install. So now my truck is stuck at their shop ! Just hoping I don't have to get it towed to a Ford dealership.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Camry XLE V6 and recently I went to unlock the door with the key and the car honked once; the horn hasn't gone off since when I tried unlocking the door again. I never use the key fob to lock or unlock the door just the key. I did call the dealership and they told me it was the security system activating, which I thought was funny since it never honked for the all years I used the key to lock and unlock the car. So my question is... is the dealership right? Should the car honk when I unlock the car with the master key?
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I have a 2008 Camry Hybrid with about 125k miles. A few thousand miles ago the door locks have been displaying portions of the following issues and then finally ended up with all these issues described:
Driver door lock: (OK)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
- Power door lock switch locks and unlocks door
Front passenger door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on this door or driver door, does NOT lock/unlock door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear right door lock: (Intermittent Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger doors intermittently fail to lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear left door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, does NOT open the door
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger door does NOT lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
What specific parts would need to be replaced?
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How do I remove ignition lock cylinder to take and get new set up?
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I have a 2008 Prix. The ignition key goes in to the driver door lock, but won't turn at all. Is there a different key for lock/unlock purposes? Or does it sound like my lock is broke?
I sprayed some WD-40 in the lock a couple weeks ago, not change. It will not move one bit, which made me wonder if it requires a different key.
How to get the manual lock working again?
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I just got a Camry SE 2016 last Wednesday. and when I put the ignition key in and switch it, before turning on the engine, this message shows up: "Check charging system". and when the engine starts, the message is gone. Is this normal?
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A year ago, I had a problem starting my car (a 2004 Chevrolet Impala, about 120,000 miles). When I put the key in the ignition, the engine wouldn't turn. I knew there wasn't a problem with the battery because my lights, radio, etc. were still operating fine. Instead, I got a bright flashing "SECURITY" message on the front panel of the car. After a few minutes pacing around the parking lot, I returned to my car and it started without a problem. I checked online, and several car forums and articles claimed that this was a common problem in 2004 Chevrolet Impalas: some faulty wiring in the security system would stop the car from turning on because it thought you were trying to hot-wire the vehicle.
After the first incident, I didn't encounter this problem again until recently. Within the last 2 weeks, this problem has become more frequent, occurring maybe 2-3 times per week. The car won't start and I'll get a flashing "SECURITY" message. If I wait a while (between 5 to 30 minutes), the car will eventually start. I finally decided to take my car into a Chevrolet dealership to get the problem fixed. I described the problem to the mechanic; she guessed that the cause was associated with the ignition cylinder....
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ok so i have this park ave. that i had a new key cut. started and ran fine. then it shut down. nothing showed in error codes. now i insert key in ignition and security light on dash blinks. turn ignition to on(run) security light goes out. tried the 30min relearn for key with no results.
where is the BCM located? is there a decent diagram of where? last diagram i used said the ECM was located by evap. can. damn thing is located in the air filter assembly!
the fuel system is charging. but not staying charged. no cranking of the starter.
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2008 Prius. I am just starting to have power door lock system problem. The power locks would not work either with the fob button, the keyless entry, or the door buttons. I have replaced the battery in both key fobs. I have also found the 25 Amp fuse in position 11 of the fuse block located driver's side instrument panel (Power door lock system) was blown and have replaced the fuse. The fuse has blown again after 3 days. I can still start the car with without inserting the key. Why is my fuse blowing?
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I just got a new-to-me 2007 4.0L Explorer . When I turn the ignition to the on position, I get a message that says "Check charging system"...
Once I start the engine it goes away. Is this normal?
My battery reads 12.6 with the engine off and 13.8 with it on.
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My nearly new Hyundai Sante Fe sat in the garage for 18 days while I was away. On return the battery was dead. The auto assistance truck came to restart the car. His portable charger did nothing except make the emergency horn honk continuously while connected to the battery. We rolled the car back to the truck and hooked up to the big charger on-board. This, too, caused the emergency horn honking for several minutes until the key start worked. The explanation suggested was that the security system drained the battery, and that locked the security system. The dealer's maintenance supervisor said "all new cars do this" and suggested I could disconnect the battery while it is parked for a "long time" and then reconnect. Maybe, but what a hassle and what if you can't open the electronic door lock to get to the hood release, to proceed. Is this really the state of things now?
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Over the past few days I've been working on the car, a Canadian 2014 Elantra L 6-speed, in an attempt to install the keyless entry system into it.
- I found a wiring diagram online and for the most part its been working, gotten the tail lights/siren and just about every feature working excluding the doors themselves locking and unlocking.
From what I can tell, in order to get the mechanism to operate correctly a relay is needed and needs to be hooked up into, correct me if I'm wrong as the car isn't with me currently, Plug A and B (59 Pin and 24 Pin). However no matter the amount of configurations I have tried, it just will not work.
*Do not care for the trunk opening operation.
**The system I currently have is a Spy la-3 Pke keyless system.
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First my security system started going off for no reason.Second the odometer quit working (it will go forward a few miles and then back a few miles).Third the running lights and headlights started flashing on and off. Not at a paticular interval but it seems to be as the "security warning light" flashes on and off. It is currently at Performance Chevrolet in Elizabeth City, NC and they have not been able to determine the problem. It has approximately 90,000 miles on it.
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It appears that the security system is somehow shut down. None of buttons on wireless FOB [main key] is working to open the door etc. even though the red indicator lights up. If I use the key, it opens the doors fine. The powerdoor controls inside the car are working fine. I did notice that security light on the dashboard is not blinking anymore.
The car was idle for three-four weeks and it didn't start so I gave a jump with portable unit. Could that do any damage to fuse etc.?
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I have done 2 searches but came up with nothing regarding a 2010 LS 460L. My security system indicator lights are flashing 24/7 regardless of the car being locked or not. Page 113 is not very clear about how to shut them off. I played with so many buttons yesterday after we got home with the car I may have triggered something without even knowing it. I do not recall that they were doing that yesterday when we picked the car up.
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When the ignition is on (no motor running) there is a buzzing sound from the front of the engine. I have used the screwdriver in the ear to try to track the noise. It sounds like the alternator exhaust manifold area.
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My 1999 Saturn SL2 has had issues with its security system for years. It "chirps" intermittently, sometimes to the point of killing the battery. I've taken to unplugging the battery when I won't be using it for a few days so that the chirping doesn't get out of control. Often I'm not able to start the car right away, because the security system has been activated somehow. When this happens I have to unlock and lock the doors until the car starts. I used to be able to improve this by using the keyless entry system, but this very recently stopped working, even though the batteries are new. The security came with the car, and was definitely not installed after market.
My car has also suffered from water damage for a long time. The trunk initially was leaking. Since then the sunroof, drivers side window and rear window have all become leaky. I have fixed those with caulking, but nobody has been able to fix the trunk leak. (really quite significant; when I lived in Portland I sometimes had to siphon out several inches of water from the trunk). My theory is that the electric system might have water damage, but I've brought the car to several mechanics, including electrical specialists, and nobody has had any answers.
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