Camry :: 2008 LE Sometimes Cranks Over For Several Seconds
Feb 22, 2015
*2008 Camry LE i4 Auto Trans US built*
My son's Camry sometimes takes several cranks (4-5 seconds) to start up and then there's times when it fires right up. Typically during first start of the day or if the car has sat for several hours, it fires up instantly.
Now if the car has been driven for any length of time and parked momentarily.....then on restart, the car will crank for several seconds before firing up.
There are absolutely NO "engine" lights on and the spark plugs were changed out with OEM Denso plugs from Toyota 6k miles ago. Also the battery is less than 6 months old (holds a full charge) and Throttle body and injectors have been thoroughly cleaned.
This issue has been lingering way before plugs were replaced, throttle body and injectors were cleaned, and before battery was replaced.
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I have 99 Sunfire 2.2L doesn't like to start right away. You turn the key and it cranks, cranks, cranks, and does that for about 5-8 seconds then start. If I shut the car off and turn it back on within an hour it seems to start pretty quick,(my only crank for a second or two).. It seems to be when it sets for a few hours it just hates to start. It always cranks strong .. i.e. it doesn't crank weak or slow like when your batter is very low.
I put a new alternator in it about 3 years ago and new battery in it last week. I do not have a system or any accessories that maybe causing any interruption. I have had this problem for year now and I have had it.
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I recently purchased a 2006 Avalon XLS, 120,000 miles. About 25% of the time, it will crank for several seconds without starting. Turn off the key momentarily and try again, it fires right up every time. This tends to happen when setting for an hour or more, but can also happen after just a few minutes. My first thought is fuel pressure, but can't find a good spot to attach a pressure gauge.
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I just bought this 97 passat vr6 today off of a friend currently don't run, friend told me that 1 day while driving it just shut off, would not start waited a while fired back up got it home now will not start, so i messed with it today took coil pack off had a little crack fixed it, car started ran maybe 45seconds then shut off and just cranks won't turn over, is this due to the coil pack or maybe crank sensor or knock sensor??
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2011 f150 5.0... When I turn the key it cranks for about 10 secs I don't hear the fuel pump come on what should I check first before replacing the pump....
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It driving me crazy. Every 10th start of engine it cranks over and over before it fires up, no codes, changed plugs, wires, crank trigger, fuel filter, upper and lower intake gaskets, injectors, iacv. I have no clue. Runs great all time just starting issue every 10th or so start takes 10- 15 seconds to start
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My husband has a 2013 Subaru Legacy, and we have noticed that on days where the temperature is below 35 degrees Fahrenheit or so, it is having trouble starting. It cranks for about 7-10 seconds prior to starting, or will not start until after a few attempts. We have owned the car for about a year, and did not notice this problem last winter.
So far, we have taken it back to the Subaru Dealer twice. The first time, they told us they found nothing wrong with the car. The second time, they tried draining and recharging the battery. Our car is still having issues starting, and we are not sure where to turn to next. Is this a known issue with Subaru Legacy? Our car is still under warranty.
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Okay, let me start by saying that its not the battery, (got it checked and tried to jumps with cables) and I got nothing...I replaced the starter and powwow.. That wasn't the problem, so now I'm confused as crap... Only thing I got left is the ignition switch and neutral safety switch.. I tried to put it in neutral and got nothing..
Could it be the vats system, although my security light doesn't come on... But when I try to bypass the starter soliniod, it cranks but it dies in a matter of seconds.. And I heard the the anti theft system block the starter from firing up the fuel injectors...
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My son had the starter replaced on his 97 Eclipse a couple of months ago and ever since then it seems to be more difficult to start if it has been sitting for a few hours or more. It cranks for 5 or 10 seconds before it catches. If the car is warm or has only sat for an hour or two it starts fine. The battery has been tested and is fine. The fuel filter was replaced about 30k miles ago. He also thinks he has one injector that is performing below par. It idles a tad rough. A friend said to clean or change the air filter and change the fuel filter. He had injector cleaner put in it the other day but that has not solved the starting issue at all yet. Don't know if the injector issue is causing the poor starting or not.
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Where to monitor or what to check. The past few weeks this truck all the sudden went from a quick starter(barely hit the key and it would pop off) cold and hot to one that consistently cranks for around 5 seconds before it starts. Doesn't matter if I wait for the glow plug dash light to go out when it's sat for two days or if the engine has a ECT of 198 F and was just running 5 minutes prior...it still cranks over for 5 seconds before starting. Seems like it's an electronic issue vs mechanical, but that's just a guess.
The truck runs, drives and tows excellent outside of this starting quirk...so I know I shouldn't complain but this isn't right from what it used to start like and seems like it's a warning that something is likely to fail down the road. I'd Rather find it now than when 100's of miles from home if possible.
I updated it with better dummy plugs, standpipes, STC fitting, rebuilt FICM, 2 fresh batteries, new fuel pump, ICP sensor all within the last 10K miles. I scanned it with a code reader and found no codes in the history and the check engine light is not on.
Monitoring with a Scan Gauge all inputs seem normal for what I've read on this website with the exception of SYC it says 0? Which should mean it would never start I think but yet it does? I checked my code numbers from the list and I had it entered correct. Is this my issue a bad crank or cam position sensor?
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My problem is with a 2000 Mountaineer V8. Once a year I have to replace the battery after the first cold snap due to low cranking amps. I can simply hook up a battery charger and it will crank and fire. My second problem is most likely related. When I replace the battery it will kick off like a brand new car with no hesitation. After a few starts it takes 5-15 seconds for the engine to fire while the engine cranks normally, and that's how it operates all year. After having this problem again this year (I've owned it 4 years) I've realized the underlying problem is not the battery. All the connections are good, and it has a good ground. No lights or warnings, and when tested with a handheld scanner there are no error codes.
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Alright I thought changing a fuel filter was fool proof but I changed the fuel filter in my 2001 escape v6. awd and now for some reason it wont start right up like it used too before the filter change. It cranks for a few seconds then fires up and runs perfectly fine it sits for a few hours same issue where as before the filter change it fired up fine every time, what did I do wrong. 2001 ford escape...
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So it often just cranks for 15 seconds before it fires. I put the fuel pressure guage on it and you turn the key on but don't engage the starter it goes to 30 psi then back to 0 in a 2 second time frame. It then stays at zero. when you engage the starter pressure slowly goes up and it starts running while running its a consistent 60 psi.
I presume its the fuel regulator but why does it not go up to 60 psi and why does it just stop with the KOEO? Is it reasonable to just replace the regulator? or should I be replacing the fuel pump to at the same time? I will be doing this from under the truck since there is a lot of hard mounted equipment in the bed.
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Worked with the 6.0s on my ambulances at my station but this is my first personal diesel. Starting about a week ago my 2006 F350 with 88k started having longer cold cranks, around 10 seconds with some hiccups on the way. I checked the FICM Voltage with a multimeter and on my scan gauge II, it has not gone below 47 volts. I am above the 500psi on the ICP, and around 35% on the IPR Duty cycle. The FICM is also synced. I know this is a big topic with these 6.0s but normally one of these things are an issue, where as mine are in normal range.
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I have the notorious PO171 and PO174 codes on my 2003 5.4L that come back whenever I erase them. I cannot figure out the problem. Whenever I start the truck it cranks for 3-4 seconds before it finally fires, then rpm's are very low, then they finally pick up. I have noticed a loss in power as well. I have completed a full tune-up (spark plugs, coils, boots, filters, etc.)
I have checked the vacuum and PCV lines numerous times, I have yet to find a leak. MAF appears clean. I am running a K&N CAI setup. O2 sensors a good, replaced the gas cap. The only other problem I can see is a bad PCV valve? I hope it isn't a manifold gasket. The truck has been very well maintained and still looks brand-new throughout at 250,000 miles.
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I have a 2004 F250 Superduty with the 2003 6.0 Powerstroke inside of it. In the morning i can go out and start the truck perfectly fine starts up and runs like a champ, it will drive to any destination perfectly fine with no issues, ALTHOUGH .... once i reach where im going if i turn the truck off it will not start correctly. it cranks over and will start but sounds as if it is hydrolocking and in a matter of seconds kills itself. once it does this i have to let the truck sit for a minimum of 4-5 hours with the hood popped to allow motor to cool... as soon as its cooled completely i can start it and once again it runs perfectly fine until i turn it off again. if i leave it running at an idle it will sit and idle all day long and i can jump in and drive it fine. It just happens when it gets turned off.
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Truck stalls out and cranks hard for 7-10 seconds before starting if I don't let it warm up adequately before I start driving. Transmission is hesitant to shift. Also, white smoke comes out exhaust if it's cold and I get in the throttle too much or if I hit 70+mph.
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I bought a 2002 Camry with a burnt engine one it for a project. I put a 2005 Camry engine on it, and changed ecm, ignition switch, dash harness and the harness that goes from the ecm down to the rest of the engine parts( transmission and sensors and such) all from a 2005 model. But I didn't change the other wiring that goes along the fire wall. We first tried to start the car I wont start at all. No even crank.
Checked spark = good
Checked fuel pressure = no fuel pressure.
But when I use the ecm from the 2002 I have fuel but not spark. So I open the the fuel relay and manually closed it, then the car starts and runs but zero throttle. My question is: do I have to take it to toyota to get it reprogrammed or there there is something else I can do before that.
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I have a 2008 r32 that was always 100% reliable until now. One owner, no wrecks, 90k miles, all services done by the dealer and the car is in perfect condition-except it won't start. I noticed symptoms a few weeks ago - a little longer cranking time to catch and then it slowly got worse. More tires at cranking until it would catch and run. Had it to the local dealer- 3 Rivers VW, they checked it out and said there were no codes -they said after talking to VW tech to disconnect the battery to "reset" the system.
It worked for two days and then it completely died- I think their "repair" ($200 in diagnostic time) was a waste. Two days later complete zero-cranks but won't start- flat bedded to dealer again this time they have the car for ten days! First they replace the ignition switch (said it was worn/loose) , then the battery ground strap in the trunk- said it showed to much resistance (4.5 ohms), they then called and said it still wasn't starting right-need to keep it for another day. Last they replaced a relay - part number 1KO-951-253. They declared it fixed! Car started for ONE day now nothing again. Searched - crank sensor, fuse, coil packs, etc- but no solid leads.
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Hit a pole hole blew out passenger front tire, rim gone, car went dead , car cranks over will not start, what my be wrong. no under carriage damage...
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I've got a 2005 Camry 2.4L. Car won't start but it cranks. Got some codes being thrown:
P0010 (camshaft position 'A' Acuator circuit bank 1),
P0748 (Pressure control solenoid 'A' electrical),
P0778 (Pressure control solenoid 'B' electrical),
P2716 (Pressure control solenoid 'D' electrical).
Checked the ignition coils and all 4 are firing and sparking, sprayed some starter fluid in the throttle body and it didn't start. I'm also not hearing the fuel pump prime.
Additionally, I've tested the OCV by pulling it out and connecting it to 12v and its clicking like expected (cleaned it and put it back in - still won't start). I've also had the battery tested and it's fine. I pulled the camshaft sensor and cleaned it and tested it, and it tested fine as well.
When I tested the Crankshaft position sensor I got the ohm reading to be very high, higher than normal operation. Could this be allowing spark but also malfunctioning enough to not allow the fuel pump to prime and turn on fully?
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