Camry :: 2008 LE - Oil In The Spark Plug Chamber?
Jun 4, 2015
I was going to change the spark plugs on my 08 Camry CE today, so I removed one of the starters, and used my spark plug socket to extract the plug. The plug was sticking, so I pulled my socket out to get a better look at the plug, but when I pulled it out I noticed that there was a brown slimy liquid a good inch up the socket (I assume it was oil?). I looked down into the chamber and saw the plug surrounded by the fluid, and now I'm freaking out. Should I have my car towed to the mechanics and have them look at it? I feel like this can't be normal.
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The spark plug in chamber 2 blew off while the vehicle was in motion (approx 35 mph). Purchased replacement plugs and when I went to install, there was nothing for the plug to grab (i.e. appears that all of the threads on the block/casing are gone . Not sure what my options are.
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my wife drives a 2008 toyota camry 4cyl. she has about 86000 miles so i figured i would do a little tune up. change plugs, filters, injector clean, etc. while changing the plugs i seem to have broken 3 of the 4 pressure tabs on the plugs that plug into the coil. for the time being i have the pressure tap electrical taped very tightly onto the plug. What I should do? or is that common to for those to break off. I didn't even really use a lot of pressure either.
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Today I began to change the plugs on my '04 Camry 4cyl for the first time at a little over 100 thousand miles. The first plug I came to doesn't want to come loose. I started with a 8" ratchet, now I'm on it with a 12 " ratchet and it doesn't budge. I'm able to go up to 3' and almost anything in between with a breaker bar plus a cheater, but I've heard terrible tales of people who break off a plug. How much force can you safely put on a plug? how do shops remove stuck plugs?
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I have a 2010 camry se 2.5l (2ar-fe). I replaced spark plugs and found oil in #4. It was on plug not in cylinder. There is a little oil at bottom of spark plug tube. My guess is there is a gasket/seal at bottom of spark plug tube. Am I correct? How to replace?
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I have an 2011 f350 6.7 diesel. The glow plug ruptured causing damage to the chambers. I recently bought a new 2014 6.7 diesel engine had this motor installed. When I received the truck back it shifts 1,2, 3 gear and jumps to 6.
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Had a spark plug sleeve come out, the part with the hex head to turn the whole thing. Wonder if JB Weld put on the inside of this sleeve and placed back over the plug will hold enough to turn the plug and get it out after some more pb blaster?
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I just picked up a 05 F150 lariat 5.4 2wd with a 177k on it. What the chances of these plugs coming out with out breaking? Any tips tricks to getting them out? Should I put motorcraft plugs back in it ?
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I have a 2006 Fx4 with 60,000 miles. I wanted to change the spark plugs myself yet I can't seem to find were they are in the engine, I know how to take them out but I don't know how to get to them.
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I own a v10 and am getting ready to assist a buddy out with his 05 5.4l. He wants me to change the spark plugs out. I have changed the spark plugs on my 04 v10. I think this is the year for went to the 2 piece spark plugs. Also what torq setting should I torq them to? Should I also use anti seize with them or no? Does the gap need to be set on the plugs? I dont have a book to go buy.
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I just changed the plugs in my 05 stx 4x4 4.6L. Truck was running fine, never a problem but it has 105k so I figured id change them. #4 was the only one that gave me a little problem (besides being so tight). The coil and spring pulled off the boot, and I had to get a pair of pliers and get the boot off the plug.
I simply slid the spring back through the boot and replaced it once I had changed the plug. Other than that they all came out easily. I replaced with motorcraft plugs, and #5 did have what looked like some oil down on the threads when I pulled it out, but not sure if that's a big deal or not
Any way, I am torn between ordering new boots and changing them out, or just biting the bullet and getting 8 new coils with new boots attached. Truck runs fine, but does the usual buck/jerk under a load in overdrive now (never once did it before)...
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I had first two spark plugs break off in my 2005 F150 before stopping. I ran five tanks of injector cleaner through using different brands of cleaner. The next six plugs removed without any issues.
Since then, I replaced 2 plugs after 25000 miles. Used one tank of injector cleaner and had no problem.
I would suggest that anyone planning on changing plugs run some injector cleaner through before the change. The cleaner seems to remove the carbon build-up around the plugs.
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I am getting a cylinder 5 misfire and this has been a "on again off again" situation since last August. I took it around to a few places and the general solution was to get new spark plugs. After doing a bit more research I was advised to change the coil cover. I did that and it fixed the problem. Then about 4 months later the light came on again. I happened to change the air filter and the light went off. I though great, problem solved! not so much, when i went to the mountains the other day the light came back on. I did my research again and I have decided to get the plugs changed. Its a 2005 f150 with 94,500 miles on it.
I am told its time to change them regardless. I started calling around and getting quotes and have been told by multiple shops that ford made the plugs in my truck in a bad way. They have been telling me to change them and breaking them is a 50/50 shot. THEN, when they quote me they charge a rate to replace them plus the plugs themself. If they happen to break one then the customer pays for the new one. Do the plugs would really break that easy and should I plan on replacing some of them?
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I have a F150 which has developed a miss or hesitation when driving. I took it into my mechanic and he told me this:
This year truck is famous for needing a tune up but the problem is that ford redesigned the spark plugs for these years of trucks. The problem is hat carbon builds up and when u go to remove them the plugs break and sometimes you have to take the heads off to get them out, he said that this would cost around I 2500 is one breaks!
So my question then becomes is this the norm for my V8 2005 Ford F150?
My truck has 85,556 miles on it.
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I was doing a tune up of my 09 camry with an 2.4L engine due to a rough idle problem i have been having , and I noticed a lot of orange colored dust in one of the 4 spark plug tubes, I mean a lot of it while the other 3 were dust free. I tried my best to clean it out and inspected the spark plugs all seems to be fine. What could be the cause of the dust?
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I have a 2008 Camry, 2.4L, and used the spark plugs change DIY sticky and it seemed to go painlessly. However, after the new spark plugs, the car seems to idle rough. It has 95k miles, and I did the following in the same tune-up:
1. Changed Oil
2. Replaced Air Filter
3. Changed Spark Plugs
4. Cleaned Battery Terminals
5. Cleaned MAF Sensor
6. Cleaned plugs connecting to ignition coils
I used OEM Toyota plugs, and even called the dealer to see if the gap needed to be set. And they affirmed me that the gap is preset on these plugs.
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This past Sunday, I replaced the spark plugs on my 2008 Toyota Camry CE, following one of the sticky DIYs. My car has approximately 107,xxx miles.
Last night on my drive home from work my CEL came on. First time seeing a CEL light since my BMW days, . Luckily, I have a OBDII scanner at home and after running the scanner, it gave me the following trouble codes:
- P0101
- P0172
I went ahead cleaned the air filter (I have an Injen SRI installed).
After doing some research on the interwebs, I have concluded that this code has to do with the MAF. Time permitting, I am going to clean the MAF sensor later tonight. In the meantime I reset the CEL, to see if it will come on again.
My only question, which I am unable to find an answer to, is:
Can there be a possibility that the P0101 and P0172 trouble codes be related to me replacing the spark plugs, or is this just a mere coincidence?
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ive been meaning to change my spark plugs cause I had gotten an error code for a misfire but it seemed to go away.now some time last week I was kinda racing a friend of mine on the highway was doing like about 80-90 mph when the check engine light came on and the check VSC and the car started like sputtering. so I was thinking ok great the misfire is happening again, but this time it was different it would stutter at low speeds before it would stutter like around 70 mph. so I parked the car ordered new spark plugs when I went to change them one of them had oil on it and the ignition coil. it was the one closet to the front of the car on the passenger side. my question is what could cause this to happen.
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I want to change spark plug, took connector of spark unit and took bolt M6 out, lifted spark unit but not enough clearance to remove the unit in order to use wrench for unscrewing spark plug. How it works?
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I have a 91 corolla 1.6 5 speed. There is oil in one of the spark plugs and its covering the entire bottom of the spark plug, which is also making the car sputter as it runs. I'm told the seals are bad? If so, what kind of seal is this? Where is it located inside the engine exactly? If not, what else could it be?
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The car is a 2010 with 65,000 miles on it. When I purchase a used car I make a habit of changing all the fluids and doing a tune up regardless of its service history.
While doing the spark plugs I found that one of the spark plug wells had about 3 inches of oil inside of it. The spark plug tube gasket had failed. I was surprised that the car was not misfiring yet.
Luckily it is just still in warranty and the dealer is fixing it at no cost to me. However most everyone will find this problem when it is too late as the service manual says not to change the spark plugs until 120,000 miles!
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