Camry :: 2008 LE - No Cranking But After 2 Minutes It Starts In First Self
Feb 12, 2015
My 2008 camry le v4 has some starting problem. So what happens is when i turn ignition on everything works like radio lights but no cranking i tried lock unlock. Ignition on off. But no cranking but after 2 mins it starts in first self.
It doesn't happens every time but normally Everyday in morning it starts fine but in evening it does it more or when weather is hot. Battery is new. Starter has no problems. I even tried different key.
It looks like alarm issue but i am not sure all the fuses looks fine. Every time it does it its always around 2 mins from when i put in key first time. But it always starts after delay. Its been doing this from 4 month with up to 2 weeks with no problem.
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This is in town driving. Highway mileage is much better but still bad. I checked O2 sensor voltage and it reads a constant 3.3 volts. I believe the O2 sensor is bad but not quite sure. What the correct voltage should be both cold and warmed up to operating temp? Also can the O2 sensor alone cause such high mileage? Car only starts on second cranking attempt.
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117,000+ mi. on my '07 Camry LE and it's started locking itself two to three minutes after I've just unlocked it with the keyless remote.
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2002 elantra gls 125k miles, Automatic
I have a very intermittent problem starting the vehicle first thing in the morning ( this has happened twice this week, but only 5-6 times in the past year or so). It will crank and sound as if it just about to start, but not quite fire. After 5-10 mins of cranking, shifting into and out of gear, rocking vehicle (not sure what actually causes it to start, if anything) the car fires and runs just fine, starting normally until the next "event".
Plugged it in and got no codes.. The only difference I can see is that every time this has happened recently the car has been parked in a parking garage at work on a minor incline for about 13 hours.
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My 2008 Camry sometimes when I am driving the brake and ABS panel lights comes on and the A/C starts blowing hot air, also all the panel starts behaving crazy. We put the scanner and it does not show any issues, otherwise the car runs smooth.
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I have owned this 01 LS with a V8 for about a year now and have had it to the dealer at least 6 times. After bringing the car in twice, the dealer finally found that there was a problem with the fuel injector. 3 months later the problem came back - basically the car takes 3-6 seconds of cranking before it starts (from a cold start of more than 2 hours). The last 3 times I have had it in the dealer has reprogrammed the computer and thought it was fixed - Wrong! After this last time, the dealer said they could not find a problem and felt they were doing all they could - in fact, they told me to switch to a lower octane gas and see if that works.
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I have trouble starting my GLI sometimes..its usually 1 out of 10 times. It will keep cranking and after a few tries it finally starts if i hit the gas a little bit too...
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My truck has a short in it. I've noticed this delay for the past few months. Takes a few seconds when I'm cranking it, then it finally starts. Could it be the alternator that I need replaced? It's not the battery, cause I'm getting plenty of juice.
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I have a 2002 Explorer 4 door with the flex fuel V6 engine with 157k miles. This has happened twice in a month. You got to start the truck and it starts to crank for a second and half and then it completely stops for a half second and then starts cranking again and fires up. The kicker is after it did this the instrument gauges, all of them, stayed at nothing when it started and then they all at the same time went to the highest level and then they all dropped back down to nothing and then rose to their perspective positions. My trip gauge reset it self to zero as well..
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My car is a 2005 V6 Touareg. It has 60.000 kilometers on it and had no major issues to this date. It was well maintained. Recently, it developed a problem with starting. Before I go into more details, I have to tell this: my car has two batteries, and they are in perfect condition, verified by the dealer. The spark plugs were changed at 45.000 kilometers. It has no rough running characteristics under heavy acceleration or any hesitation - from what I read, symptoms for bad ignition coils-.
When I turn the key for ignition, the engine turns over but instead of immediately starting, keeps cranking for 2-3 seconds, and finally starts with a slow idle. Sometimes the charging light remains on for several seconds due to the difficult starting and the slow idle, but this does not last and the cars start idling normally, as if nothing happened. This happens when the car sits overnight and the engine is cold. Once it starts, I cannot get the car to do this without waiting overnight. Summertime weather seems to contribute to this but I still get it in the cold winter weather.
Strangely, if I do not use the car for, say, 3 days, the car starts like the day I bought it, without the hesitation.
I took it to a dealer and told them to check it but they said it start normally. They checked to see if the car registers any error but it does not. I am sure of the quality of the fuel I am using. In any case, I tried several different brands from different stations just in case, but this did not make any difference.
Bad ignition coil, idling sensors or mechanism, something wrong with the intake manifold? Carbon build-up (although I have to say this is not likely since the catalytic converter seems to be fine which leads me to believe there is no excessive carbon buildup).
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High mileage santa fe 190K+ miles. Will only start while cranking. Dies when key is in "on" position. Fuel pump runs/cycles normally when turned to "on" position. No obvious vacuum leaks. No intake obstructions. Vehicle will cont to run using starting fluid. Vehicle starts, idles and runs (somewhat poorly) with MAF unplugged. Fuses appear ok (although the fuse cover/fuse index is lost). Stranded at rural property with limited tools and average abilities.
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My 06 f350 power stroke has a viper 2way remote starter.
When I try to start it when the truck is cold it doesn't crank long enough for it to start the truck. It will try 3 times when I hit the start button and normally won't go. It almost starts most times but stops cranking right before it starts. This is driving me nuts.
I just tried 3 times to start the truck and it in ally went on the 8th time trying to crank.
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I am a longtime 7.3 IDI guy with an 88 F350 crew so i know about diesels. But this is my first electronic diesel. I picked up a 2001 F450 2wd auto 260k miles. it used to be my work's truck but was stitting for a year and now i got it in "non running condition"
I towed it home and got it started by replacing the batteries and using the block heater.
As expected it took a few tries of long cranking to run the first time. runs pretty good and no smoke. what surprised me is it still takes about 5 sec of cranking to restart each time when warm too. any direction you would look with those symptoms? HPOP, IPR?
i am pretty sure the glow plugs all work because mechanics had replaced all that stuff. but i know back when the truck was last used it would still never start cold unless plugged in (even in summer).
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A friend of mine have a 94' Explorer with the 4.0 v6. Fuel pump starts for 2-3 sec when i turn the key, stops when cranking and starts again when i stop cranking. i checked the fuel shutoff switch and it was ok, and it have spark.
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I have a 2002 F-450 crew cab 2wd automatic 7.3 diesel with 298k on the body and about 120k on a Jasper engine. About a month ago I started it in the morning to let it warm up. Went to make coffee. Came back and it had died. It was low on fuel and I didn't pay attention. Played hell getting it primed back up. Now if I don't let it warm up for twenty minutes it won't run worth a flip and has been dying out. Changed fuel filter. Unplugged ICP. No change. When I crank it it will turn over for about thirty seconds then oil pressure gauge moves, then engine starts to run very roughly. It will die. I repeat a few times. It will eventually start and start and stay running. Blows whitish grey smoke until it warms up. No loss in power till CEL comes on. Still not too much loss. Sometimes it takes a long time to get it running. Sometimes it will die after I get out of the driveway if I don't let it warm up. Truck was serviced maybe 3000 miles ago. No water in fuel. New fuel filter. New air filter. It is a company truck. I work for a small company building cell towers.
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Have 2005 Phaeton with about 140,000 miles. Has run fine as long as I've had it at about 100,000. Last week it died in a parking lot after starting. It keep doing that all the way home.
Next day it started and ran a bit longer and then the serpentine belt broke. Replaced the belt and car ran fine for 10 minutes, parted it and the next day it quit after running 2 minutes.
Seems like it dies right after the computer systems cycle up.
I replaced the left side battery and keep the correct charger on it to make sure its fully charged. I start the car and it dies after a few minutes, then I notice the charger is charging the battery.
I checked the J367 battery control unit and its a D rates 2800 so should be the right one. I don't know if they can go bad. But think it could be the problem, not sure if they can be tested. Called my vw dealer and they say they need to whole vehicle.
The meter on the dash show 14 plus so I think the alternator should be fine. I did check to make sure all pulleys were turning smoothly when I changed the belt. Today I checked the Smoothing Capacitor and it tested fine.
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We got a new 2016 Tiguan recently and it's a good car but since mile 0 it's had an issue where if you run the AC cold for a few minutes, and then just turn off the AC (but keep the fan on) the car starts to smell pretty bad within 3-5 minutes. I'm talking the smelly feet, cheesy aroma stuff.
The hotter it is outside the more this accentuates. I used to have a 2012 GTI that would do that every now and then, especially at the start of the Spring but it would quickly go away after the first few days or some Lysol.
I assume this car was parked outside the dealership for many months so that may have caused it. I've taken it back to the dealer twice, first time they said they ran a full deodorization, whatever that means, and second time they said they couldn't find anything wrong.
I looked at the air cabin filter, looks brand new, only strange thing was the cover panel under the glovebox was missing, maybe from when they replaced the filter after my complaints. Car is sitting at 1400 miles now, if anything the smell is now worse and I'm taking it back to the dealership for a 3rd time tomorrow morning...
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So, I recently bought a 99.5 Jetta. (99 with a 00 body), fixes a few things. Alternator, oil pan, head gasket. I recently drove the car just up the road, drove it back. Went to pull in to my spot and it shut off! Wouldn't start but would crank over. Days go by, same problem. Runs for about 10 minutes then just dies. Fuel pump works, fuel filter isn't clogged. And the fuel relay works.
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Here is my question.. 94 Z28 38K 6spd. Starts right up and runs well, for about 15-20 minutes then will shut down( like the key was turned off) When this happens I have no signal to either the ignition module or to the injectors.
This car was damaged by an idiot that flooded the dist. with coolant doing a flush. They replaced it with a Advance auto remain. This is when the trouble started. I did replace the I/M with an AC OEM Module, no change, verified all wiring from the computer to the Dist. and I/M. All checked out. I am thinking that the cheap remain unit is my problem and am looking to get the MSD Opti spark system to hopefully fix and to prevent this problem from happening again.
I cannot retrieve codes (94 won't flash CEL codes). Is there any other method of diag I could use to verify my suspicions. Oh, there is not response from the Tech either once the engine dies.
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I have a 2008 Prius touring edition. The passenger headlight starts on but then turns off after about 10 minutes. How to fix this issue?
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My Prius waste gas by always starting the engine. Even with the battery indicator at full charge. Every time the Prius is shut down, like leaving the car to go into the store for 3 minutes or more or backing Prius out of garage, the engine starts up and runs for about 4 minutes, regardless of being fully charge or not.
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