Camry :: 2008 Engine Don't Idle / In Reverse, RPM Drops
Feb 16, 2016
I own Camry 2008, 4 cyl, 2AZFE engine, 2400cc.
I recently, started facing strange issues,
No matter whether engine is stone cold or oven hot, it does not idle where it used to be (2 weeks ago). The car idles at ~800 RPM and the rpm suddenly drops to ~700 and engine flushes in more fuel to rev it up to 1100 rpm. Will take another 10 - 12 sec to reach ~700 rpm and the same story continues.
This however, sometimes go away, in Neutral. Once I put it in Reverse the problem becomes worse with RPM dropping every other second, as if the current in the coils is failing.
All this fuss continues, even when car is at 30 mph. However beyond 30 mph I feel nothing.
Services done in last 2 weeks:
1. Throttle body clean-- complete removal of all the gunk.
2. PCV valve changed from toyota dealer.
3. Mass airflow sensor cleaned.
4. Spark Plugs changed with new Iridium plugs from toyota dealer.
5. New Ignition Coils.
Nothing solved the idle problem - missing in the car. The mechanic convinced me that Head gasket is blown. He was indeed right as the Head Gasket had crack b/w cyl 2 and cyl 3. It was changed and car was much better. But now I am again facing issues.
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I drive a 2006 Scion tC with 96000 mileage. The car has been getting a lot of problems lately.
1. P0741 torque converter engine light
2. Lost in power
3. Lost in MPG
4. Shakes a lot inside
5. Low Idle
6. engine shuts off on reverse and d mode
7. Noisy strange sounds
8. Gear slip around 2-3
9. RPM goes high at low speed.
I Replaced,Spark plugs, coil plugs, engine oil, coolant, steering fluid, brake fluid. I need to to replace the transmission fluid. I was told by a couple of shops to get a transmission rebuild....
I also read someones comment online: "It's your transmission. Your torque converter is bad. There is too much torque as a result. When your car is in neutral or park there is no torque being created. When you leave the in gear idle state, the torque is relieved. That is why the problem will go away when you hit the gas."
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Friend of mine drives a 2008 Camry with 2GR FE engine, with 65 000 miles. When the engine is cold it runs fine but when is fully warm it idles low, in D or R at around 560-600 rpm. When he shift from P to R or from N to D, the idle goes down, not up like it should. The spark plugs are new, air filter is new. No CEL.
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When I turn the A/C on in my 1994 celica gt 2.2 engine the idle drops and will die,
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I replaced my engine that had 155,000 miles with a newer used one with about 30,000 miles. since the swap my gas mileage is down by one third or more. Everything else seems fine except that my cold start idle is up to 2000rpm's until it drops to normal within 3 minutes.
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have a 98 rodeo, with a V6 & Auto trans. have an intermittent problem - as I am driving engine will occasionally drop to idle speed and then pick back up to driving speed. Engine keeps running smoothly, just at idle speed.
CEL does not come on / no codes
Replaced Throttle Position Sensor - and thought I had found the problem, but since it is so random, it just didn't happen again for 1 1/2 weeks.
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I have a 2.7L flex fuel Dodge Stratus with 120K+ miles on it and a problem local mechanics and the Dodge dealership cannot seem to locate. When the engine is hot, and only when it's hot, the car will jerk suddenly while driving for a split second, then resume normal operations. It feels almost like you hit something and is scaring the bejeesus out of my wife. It also sometimes stalls out when at a light after sitting at idle for a few seconds. It idles down from 600 RPM like the air conditioning compressor is cutting on and then dies completely.
The car shows no error codes and the check engine light does not come on when this happens. I have replaced the spark plugs, and the transmission solenoid, which is what the Dodge dealer said "fixed" the car for almost $900, and it did it again on the way home from the dealership. My next idea was to change the fuel filter, or maybe the cam position sensor or timing belt or chain. I wonder if I am just trowing money down a hole at this point though, since Kelly Blue Book on this car is under 2K anyway.
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When I start the engine it works fine while the motor is cold (idle normal all smooth). When the engine the temperature reach normal operating range the car loose power and idle drops to 350-500 rpm and if i am driving I can not go over 40mi/h. I drive a 2008 Sta Fe now with 96000 KM (~~60000 miles). A month ago the engine start shaking severely and knocking noise (like some spark plugs where not working), from this to now:
Changed all sparks plugs
Changed all ignition coils
Now this situation looks more related to temperature of the engine.
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I recently bought a used 2010 Toyota Corolla s with around 79000 miles on it. It's an automatic and everything drives good but just one thing that has been annoying me. The problem is that when I come to a complete stop and stop there for a a while, the idle slowly drops from 650 to 600.
When this happens the car engine starts to vibrate excessively and you could feel it on your feet and steering wheel. When I turn a load on, the rpm rises and the vibration goes away.
I have cleaned the throttle body, checked the mounts and it's good, no cracks, cleaned MAF sensor, reset the idle by unplugging battery, took it in to the dealership and they said it is normal. I believe it's not normal.
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A coworker has asked me to take a look at their 2013 Camry LE, 48,000 miles. It has a quite annoying vibration at idle and only when in reverse or drive. AC is not running this time of year, but does get worse if the compressor is turned on.
I'd like to think the trans and engine mounts are fine. It does not have any noticeable torque converter shudder. I have cleaned the throttle body, not that dirty, but not much improvement.
I suggested that he try different brands and grades of gas to see if matters improved at all - Shell 89 seems to be a slight improvement over what is normally used (just 87 from Costco, Sunoco, or Hess), but nothing substantial.
Spark plug change, decarbonizing top end?
Spark plugs look about like I'd expect an iridium plug to at these miles - no signs of oil burning, not tons of carbon, etc. I didn't get a real good look at the piston tops.
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Okay I have a 2006 F-150 5.4 60,000 miles , Never once had any problems. I have always done the oil changes myself using 5w-20 mobile super and an S2 STP oil filter. Today, I did a normal oil change and once i filled it up I checked the oil it one last time and I topped it off just right according to the dipstick. And I also checked it after letting engine idle for 5 minutes. I changed the fuel filter also ( first time doing) but no leaks. I drove about two miles down the road, turned around and when I put it into reverse it idled really rough. It almost sounded like a thrown rod.
The rpm's dropped to about 500. I put it into drive and gave it a little gas and then all was fine. Engine ran perfect. I reversed it at least 5 more times and it did it every time but always recovering when given a little gas. I also noticed that there is some oil splashed on the undercarriage like it was leaking going down the road. I checked the filter gasket and it was fine and intact. It idles great in park, drives great. Just reverse it dives down and vibrates like crazy.? After getting home I noticed that the oil level on the dipstick is a little less than a 1/4 inch over the correct level.
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I have a 2008 Camry 4 LE. My turn blinkers and reverse lights have stopped working and i'm 90% its a bad relay. I have checked all fuses and they are good. I just have a problem locating the relay. I think i saw it right above the fuse box under the dash in the driver side but i'm not 100% sure.
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Sometimes when my car as sitting at an idle in either drive or reverse the motor starts to make a knocking noise from the back of the motor towards the firewall side on the top of the motor. I have a video. The car has 114k I just changed the oil I thought maybe it's low but it's not and hasn't moved since it was changed.
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2005 f150 Lariat 4x4 5.4
Had phasers, tensioners, chains, guides, and sensors replaced. After driving the truck, it started to get a rough idle at low speeds, primarily in reverse. Changed both vct solenoids with no results. Started to get p0022 code. Changed the oil with motorcraft filter and 5w-20 twice after the work had been done, thinking it might need it. Vct's were a little varnished, but not too bad.
After a couple days of light driving, got a misfire on #3. Replaced the coil and it hasn't been back since. I am stumped at this point.
The computer show the timing to be at +13 when sitting stopped and in drive. It fluctuates a little, but not much. When the truck goes into a rough idle. The rpm's fluctuate wildly. It seems to be happening more frequently, the more I drive it.
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So I did a fairly hard 1st to 2nd gear pull on my way to lunch today. Got to a stop light and I had to slam the shifter to get my car in first. Same with 2nd and reverse. Third, fourth, and fifth seem fine. With the engine off all gears select fine. With the engine running at idle, when I engage first the engine jumps. I can definitely feel it engage. I have the ecs ra4 stage 1 kit with about 40,000 miles on it. The clutch doesn't slip when driving. This seems to be the only symptom. I'm going to bleed the slave cylinder when I get fluid. Fork? Synchros? Worn pressure plate spring thingys?
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I have a 2004 Trailblazer LS with the 4.2L I6 and this problem just recently started and I found this video on youtube of someone having the exact same problem. [URL] ....
This noise is only there in reverse and drive. If you put it in park or neutral it goes away. Also goes away if you give it some throttle while in gear.
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05 Honda Civic 5spd... 157k original miles, and I bought it new. 1-4th gear no issues. Reverse has always been hard to shift into and sometimes misses getting into gear, but the car has had that quirk since i bought it new in 05. Last month driving home I was cruising in 5th gear and the car just dropped out of gear into neutral. No gear grinding, no noticeable noises at all. just suddenly slowed down and when i went to grab the stick its was neutral.
Since then it did it a lot the following week, but now has stopped. I've talked to a few different mechanics and gotten a few different diagnosis. First the clutch. Another said the transmission, but "we might as well do the clutch since we have it in the shop". Now another mechanic says its just the clutch linkage bushing.Obviously I want the cheapest way to go, but at the same time I need to fix it right since its my only car.
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I have a 2008 Camry, 2.4L, and used the spark plugs change DIY sticky and it seemed to go painlessly. However, after the new spark plugs, the car seems to idle rough. It has 95k miles, and I did the following in the same tune-up:
1. Changed Oil
2. Replaced Air Filter
3. Changed Spark Plugs
4. Cleaned Battery Terminals
5. Cleaned MAF Sensor
6. Cleaned plugs connecting to ignition coils
I used OEM Toyota plugs, and even called the dealer to see if the gap needed to be set. And they affirmed me that the gap is preset on these plugs.
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I have an 2008 camry le i4 and every time I'm stopped at a red, the idle is so rough. would the dealer know anything about it to fix it? My car's about 2 months old and has 4000 miles on it
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I am experiencing significant RPM drops when the car is at idle and I start to steer. feels like the engine is almost going to stall. I looked online it says maybe the IAC valve. where is such thing on phaeton?
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I purchased a CPO 2013 Tiguan about 5 weeks ago with just under 29k miles. I now have about 30.5k miles. I have noticed this occur a couple of times. After the car is warmed up, and I am sitting idle for a little bit, I notice the RPMS bounce down to about 600, but then quickly correct itself and get back up to 750-800. When I purchased the car, they said they did the 30k mile maintenance. I have done 1 oil change withe the Pennzoil Platinum 5w40 euro blend. I do not feel like the oil change is the issue at all as I have changed oil plenty of times with numerous cars. Maybe I just need the ECU re-flashed?
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