Camry :: 2008 - Brake Pad Replacement For Rear Brakes
Jun 16, 2012
What size sockets do I need in order to complete a brake pad replacement for my rear brakes?
Also, what are the torque specs for each bolt I will be refastening?
And just in case a bolt breaks... what size bolts are used on the calipers?
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My car is a 1999 Honda Civic.
This morning I went in for a state inspection, oil change and rear brake replacement. Driving home while going downhill on the highway, I hit the brakes - and they failed completely. At first it felt like the car actually bucked forward. I tried flooring the brake, but felt no resistance and the car didn't stop. I kept my foot off the gas and coasted to a stop.
The tow truck driver told me he could feel a problem just getting the car onto the tow truck, and again when he took it off.
The Honda place checked it and did a test drive, found nothing.They said it couldn't be air in the brakes be took me for a short test drive and assured me I'd be fine. The
I headed home again and the brakes failed again at almost the same spot. This time it wasn't a complete failure. After no resistance at first, the brakes "caught" though somewhat mushily. I put on my flashers and kept going, at about 45 mph. Got off the highway and had to crawl because braking wasn't taking effect immediately. But as I drove on at 10 mph, they began working again. Not as well as they should, but enough to get me home.
It seems the brakes fail after 15 - 20 minutes of driving at 65 mph. They work better after a rest and at slower speeds.
If it makes a difference, my compressor is gone, so the car doesn't have a/c, and it is hot out so I'm wondering if the heat is affecting something. However, I haven't had these brake problems until today.
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I replaced the master cylinder 2 months ago and now every now and then the rear lock up for a second. its only happened a couple of times. Pulled the wheels and everything is in place with nominal wear with clean drums and rotors. Am at a loss as to why this is happening.
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2003 LE Camry i want to replace Rear brakes. Is there a DIY for it. I know it is challenging...
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Before I get started... My truck is a 2006 F-250 Super Duty XLT 6-speed 4x4 with a Limited Slip.
I just got finished with a big job on my truck. New pads all the way around, turned rotors, new emergency brake shoes, hardware, and backing plate as well as replaced the rear wheel bearings both inner and outer as well as the axle o-ring and inner seal. Also, took off the rear pumpkin cover painted it and put fresh fluid in, went with Mobil 1 75W140 LS.
Took it for a drive and the brakes work great. Followed the directions for breaking in the emergency brake which worked fine.
Now the problem is I'm getting rattling from possibly all of the wheels. Definitely from the front driver and at least one of the rear wheels. It was so dark I didn't get a chance to look at it I just pulled it back in driveway.
I'll start looking at things tomorrow but, any common mistakes or things I should check first?
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Looking for instructions on how to replace emergency brake pads on a 2003 F250 2-wheel drive Ford truck?
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My rear brakes are grinding so I am preparing to replace all pads and rotors. Any special tools or procedures from when they did theirs? Do the rotors have retention screws? Do you have to use a special tool to push in the pistons?
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Independent mechanic replaced brakes and rotors on my 2006 Camry LE with NAPA parts. All was fine for a week or two but now I'm getting a squeak when I apply the brakes. Mostly this is at low speed. the squeak varies in loudness and length and does not happen all the time. Also after repeated stops, the brakes will grind at the tail end of braking (right before the car comes to a complete stop).
Stopping distance is not affected nor is there any vibration. I plan to take it back to the mechanic later this week but what the issue could be?
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I'm trying to replace the front brake rotors on a 97 Ford Explorer (AWD, 5.0 L). I've removed the calipers and pads - but can not loosen the old rotors. It looks held on by rust - but do I need a special rotor pulling tool?
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I have a leak in one rear shock and the pads need replacing. Local NTW says they are certified mechanics and work on GX's. Dealer is so darn expensive I'm trying to find an alternative. I'm looking to see if others feel good with going outside the dealer when they can not do it themselves. 2004 GX470 ...
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I have a '79 F150 4wd and was wondering what would indicate a caliper needing replacement. I'm already going to replace everything on my rear brakes, they are completely trashed. However, the fronts seem OK, NO indications of leaks or seizing both sides of the rotors appear to be evenly "used" I guess. The inner pads do seem to be thicker than the outer pads is this normal? Anything I should be specifically looking for before I have the rotors turned and put a new set of pads on?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Camry that we purchased 14 months ago. When purchased it had bad brakes so the dealer replaced the rotors and calipers at their expense. A month ago I took the car in for a routine oil change and was notified that my rear calipers were stuck open and that my rear brakes were not working and rusted. The rotors look hardly worn, the one on the passenger side has some deep grooves in it and the driver side is pitted. We feel that we had poor work done when the brakes were replaced and that the back never worked. After the brake job was done we would get some "chinging" noise in the back brakes and I had them inspected twice and they said everything was fine. But now we find out they weren't fine.
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Looking to replace the steering stabilizer on my 2008 F-250. It has a 6" lift and 37" tires.
Also, does "dual" mean better?
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I changed the front brake rotors & pads on my wife's 2009 Toyota Camry & everything seems fine except when doing sudden or slightly hard stops it seems to do a clunk/knock type sound from the front brakes. It also only does it sometimes not every hard/sudden stop.
One thing that comes to mind is that when I went to tighten one of the guide pin bolts it was a real pain, the big bolt that the screw threads into kept spinning making it hard to tighten the bolt into & none of the others did this. I thought I tightened it down but possibly not?
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I just returned from the stealership for the 30K service on my 2006 Passat. The dealer says the back brakes will need replacement soon and there is a special tool for opening the caliper due to the electric parking brake. What tool do I need to do this myself? I have done brakes many times and normally it is a 30-45 minutes job for both axles. Also, with that few miles, will I need new rotors?
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So I need to put some new brakes on the rear of the B6 but as I remember hearing there is a hydraulic that holds the brakes in place. Apparently they have to be disabled via VAGCOM. Is there any way around this?
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A few years ago I (for him) replaced all 4 calipers, rotors, pads, etc....things were good. Just recently he replaced his Brake Booster and Master Cylinder (not sure what led to this), but long story short everything is back together and he doesn't have brakes.
My GUESS is that the system needs a good flush, new fluid, etc....
My problem is I'm unsure how to bleed the ABS system. A few google searched indicate I need a scan tool, but is there another way? Can I jump something.
So my question, how do I completely bleed the brake system on this truck?
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So my wife has 12 GTI with just under 30K on it. We purchased it brand new beginning of 2013. She was just in for oil change at the dealer in January. The told her she had 75% of the rear brake pads remaining. Today she heard a grinding noise and took to the dealer. They told her she has 25% remaining on the rear pads the rear rotors are completely rusted and need to be replaced. This just doesn't make sense to me.
They told her it is because of the way she drives. So in the last 4 months her driving habits suddenly changed? The front pads are completely fine. I just don't get how the rear pads and rotors needs to be replaced at 30,000 miles. Dealer tried to get it covered but VW said no. They told us to call customer service. This is ridiculous. I am certainly going to file a case with VW tomorrow. BTW they also told her the 2 front tires need to be replaced.
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This is my first time working on drum breaks, all the repair manuals and videos don't make it look too bad. I did have a question about the parts required to replace the rear breaks.
Assuming these breaks are very worn. What parts would need to be replaced in a typical break job.
The pics below are what I'm planning on buying:
Shoes
Rotors
Drum
Hardware Kit
Is there anything that I'm missing?
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Have to replace both rear brake lines, I can't find any information about doing the job. I need to know what size the lines are and what type of flair is on the ends?
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I have an electrical problem with the rear brake lights on my 03 Camry. The fuse keeps blowing the instant I step on the brake. I replace it and it blows immediately. So now i can't drive it because I have no brake lights. I'm thinking there is a short somewhere, where to start my troubleshooting?
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