Camry :: 2008 - AC Compressor Stuck Engaged
Nov 10, 2013
I think the ac compressor on my wife's 2008 Camry (2.4L) is stuck engaged. I've pulled the wire and it still didn't come loose. That being said, I've also read about a Mercedes that doesn't have an ac clutch, but rather the compressor vanes are varied to increase/decrease the compressor pressure. It's a shot in the dark, but perhaps it's the same with the Camry? It's been this way all summer (that I know of). The A/C seems to cycle on and off properly within the cabin. If it weren't for possible increased fuel consumption, extra drag on the motor, and possible premature component failure I wouldn't even be concerned with it. What to do with this?
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My 2001 Expedition 5.4L sat for 2+ years and due to a new child, I put it back on the road late last fall. Last week, we had our 1st "must use AC" day and it didn't work.
I listened to see if the compressor was cycling and it never engaged. I picked up a gauge and r134a kit.
Outside temp was about 60F, I think my therm was showing 57F to be exact. When I checked the low side pressure with the engine off, the gauge reading was below 15. It made sense that the compressor wouldn't start at the pressure. I put in about a 1/2 can with the motor running A/C on max and it was showing 40, but still no compressor cycling. I then shut the motor down, let it sit for about 3 mins and restarted. This time, the compressor started to cycle, it was cycling quickly though, I'd say about every 3 seconds.
With the compressor cycling, the pressure would jump from 17 to 40. With the motor off, it would read 50. Still no cold air. I put in about 14oz of R134a.
I guess what I need to know is if I should I keep adding R134a until it stabilizes around 40, even when the compressor is cycling? Also, where should the static pressure be? It's sitting at 50 now. I've been told it should be around 80, but I'm thinking that might be dependent on outside temp.
BTW, I'm now thinking that the reason that I'm not getting cold air and the compressor keeps cycling is because I need to add a lot more R-134a. I think when the compressor starts and draws coolant, the low side pressure drops to low, causing the compressor to turn off. When the compressor cycles off, it sees the low side pressure at 40 and starts it up again causing the coolant draw and low side pressure to drop to low again. Am I right on this thought? It looks like I'll need to add another can to get the pressure to stay above 22 when the compressor is running.
One other thing... How much R-134a the system takes? I need to know because I have access to a vacuum.
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I have a 2003 2.8 GLI and my compressor clutch will not engaged i provided the clutch with a direct power and ground from the battery and it engaged. i also went to the junk yard and got a couple of Fan Control Module ($4 each) and it still does not engaged.
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1999 grand prix. Controls are manual version, not automatic climate control. a/c works fine but compressor is engaged whether a/c button is pushed on or off. the only way i can disable a/c is too set fan speed to OFF. does not matter if control is set to vent, or feet. a/c runs with a/c switch set to on or off. This is not an issue of selector set to dash or defrost. I assume it is not a clutch gap issue since the compressor shuts off if i turn fan control to OFF.
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The A/c stopped blowing cold on my 06 Passat 2.0t. I checked the pressures on the low side of the system and it was 100 psi with a cold engine and 130 when hot. Obviously this is too much. It seems as if the compressor is always engaged even when the a/c is off (every part of the a/c pulley is always spinning the little nut sticking out of the center of the pulley spins as well not but im not sure if that's how it is when the compressor isn't engaged).
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99 Jetta, installed a new AC compressor a month ago, has been working great, not clutch will engage for a few moments, then turn off for a minute, then engage again. Seems, like there is Freon in there by the gauge on the low side.
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I need diagnosing why my A/C isn't working. I'm wondering if my clutch staying engaged has burned up my compressor before or after my clutch went bad. I don’t think it’s the air gap issue because I took my clutch off and checked and there were zero washers. I guess somehow I re-installed it with no washers maybe the last time I fooled with it.
I've only knew to check the air gap trick and when that didn't work, I wasn't sure what my next step could be. I tried looking at the high side pressure switch connector to see if it was burned up and it looked ok.
Can track down if my compressor is still good and replacing my clutch is the only thing I need to do or if I need to replace my compressor? Or if there's something else that's totally unrelated that I need to check?
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1997 F150... What part of the control system tells the compressor to turn on and off? After not having air conditioning for a year or more I replaced the broken blend door.
When the a/c is turned on and the temp control switch is turned to cold, I get cold air. When I turn the temp control switch to warm, the air coming out of the vents is very warm. However when I do this I noticed that the compressor is still engaged. I think that at this point the compressor should disengage.
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2 weeks ago my Camry 2008 failed the oil consumption test, so toyota fixed the engine. Few days after I got my car, I turned on the A/C but I was surprised that the compressor wont work. Totally dead.
I took the car to toyota and they check it out, they said they dont know whats wrong with compressor and I need to replace it for 1200$!!! IT WAS NOT A FREON PROBLEM, They claim that electricity is being delivered to the compressor but its just not working.
Is it possible that they messed up my compressor while fixing the engine? Also, I really don't want to fix it for that much, any thoughts where to fix it cheaper?
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My 02 elantra gls 5 speed clutch has gotten stuck engaged for about the third time now. First time was right after I bought the car i noticed the clutch would slip randomly for no reason. At first i thought the clutch must need replaced, but then other times I couldn't make it slip if i tried by going up steep hills with car full of people and shifting too soon on purpose and punching gas....no slip. So anyways i replaced the slave cylinder, and all was good till one day my wife calls me up stranded and says clutch pedal is rock hard and none of the gears will engage. so i tow the car home and fiddle around and realized the slave cylinder (brand new one) was stuck out. I opened the bleeder and it returned without me having to push on it or anything. i then bled the system thoroughly. So months have gone by and the slave cylinder got stuck out again, and again it was a simple turn of the bleeder valve and it went back and works fine. just curious as to how i can fix this problem permanently since its irritating and seems to be reoccurring. do i need to replace the master cylinder as well or did i buy a bad slave cylinder?
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Yesterday, at 8000 ft in the Arizona mtns, my 2010 Prius exhibited some strange behaviors. For several minutes the gas pedal was non responsive in the first half of it's travel, then it would lurch ahead in a jerky manner unlike it's normal behavior.
It seemed like the electric motor was not being engaged. It also seemed stuck in ECO mode. Pushing the economy mode button would not disengage economy mode. If I stepped hard on the pedal it would go, but not very well. After heading down the mountain to a lower elevation seemed to work.
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Can't drive the truck. Went through the how to fix 4x4 and no go. How to kick it out of four wheel dive?
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06 6.0 fan clutch stuck in engaged position. So I changed the fan clutch it doesn't stay engaged anymore. comes on during startup and gives the appearance that the batteries are dying. Stays on for about 10 minutes when first driving then goes off. If I run ac it comes on at every light and it doesn't matter what engine coolant temp or oil temp and they are all within 6 degrees of each other. I'm thinking maybe the AC is a issue or bad sensor somewhere. No codes everything seems to be functioning. When I say comes on it's on high speed roaring.
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if the fan doesn't work, could this make the AC compressor clutch not engage? I think the fan is burned out because it doesn't spin at all, and only moves with a lot of effort. If the fan circuit is open, will this cause the Compressor to not work as well? the car is a 1991 740 GL. 2.3L engine, non turbo.
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My son phone me from his University saying that whole car was shaking when engaged in R or D. I thought it was a failed GB mounting but turn out to be the RH engine mount. I replaced it but got #3 cylinder misfiring and high idling (1500 rpm) from OBD2 reader.
Fitted new spark plugs and ignition coils swap but still same DTCs. We can hear the misfiring from the exhaust noise. However engine power is normal. But the newly fitted engine mount may not last with the misfiring not resolved. I have cleaned the throttle body too.
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My problem is my right front axle (cv shaft) when in 2wd and engine running will not turn, everything else will as it should. in 4wd engine running nothing moves... if i jack up tire engine off right side makes a clicking noise kinda like the wheel of fortune wheel (from the tv show) <<<just in case. 4WD does not work when engaged, by that i mean they dont pull like there not locked in....
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I have a 2005 camry 4cyl my daughter was driving, she said it became difficult to get it into gear. The car does have 200,000 miles never had clutch problems. I can get it in gear when the engine is turned off. when it starts no gear can be engaged. I bleed the slave cylinder but no air . the slave master is not leaking. I turned the rod on slave master and when I started it the clutch was engaged. I am lost, I am used to working on old cars but I do not know if its a clutch that it needs to be replaced or what.
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My 2008 Prius has been sitting for about 25 days while I've been out of town. I just tried to drive it, but it feels like the parking brake is engaged even though I've pushed it off (and the lights are showing it is off).
A bit more detail: Car has been parked on a relatively steep incline (maybe 35 degrees) for about 25 days (this is its normal parking spot). Parking brake was engaged during this time. Weather is mild to warm (it's Hawaii). When I try to back up it feels like there is something behind the one of the rear tires, and the car almost starts to lift up a bit. (But there's nothing there that I can see.) I might have been able to push the gas a bit more, but was afraid of damaging something. When I put the car in drive and take my foot off the brake it rolls slightly (and very slowly forward), but not nearly what it should (I'm afraid to push the gas at all because there is a wall very close to the front of my car).
Seems like maybe the brake is stuck or something of the sort...
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Have an 08 f150 crew and love it. I have noticed though that when its in 4x4, it seems as thought the right front wheel is always engaged. Why it's not letting the 4x4 float back and forth from right to left??
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape. My wife complains that no one in the back seat can get out of the car unless she unlocks all the doors with the power switch first. The child safety locks are not engaged. The lock stem is easily visible, and can be pulled up by hand for each door.
Is unlocking the doors by hand a bad thing for the power locks? Will it cause undue damage to the system and make it fail any faster than using the switch would normally?
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Strange problem that just happened last evening. When I push the cruise button the horn toots and the panel cruise light comes on/off. However, the cruise control will not work.
If I toot the horn, again the cruise panel light comes on/off as well. The cruise control worked fine earlier that day.
What this may be and where to start looking? My first thought is to disconnect the battery for a few hours and hopefully reset the computer.
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