Camry :: 2007 Smokes At Startup When Change From Conventional To Synthetic Oil
Oct 30, 2014
I have a 07 camry I4 with 56,900+ miles and it was using 10w30 conventional oil, but recently (2 weeks ago) I change it to 5w30 Mobil1 synthetic and today notice at start up white smoke, it didn't do this before with the conventional oil.
Is this normal with this type of change from conventional to synthetic or should I worry and try to go back to conventional and see if it stop.
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New diesel owner looking for some info? Currently approaching 9k miles. My first oil change was done by the dealer. I was looking at my owners manual on what weight of oil to use. I am thinking of going to a 5w-40 oil but all seems to be synthetic. Do i need to do anything special if i am going to change from a conventional to synthetic?
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Let's change from conventional oil to synthetic nothing but the best for my old 65, c-10, 6 cylinder. Now she smokes all the time. Tell me it is not too late to switch her back to conventional oil. I have been told yes I can and no I cannot. What I may have done that can or cannot be undone?
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Lately my Ion has become increasingly harder to start, especially in the cold. I have found that if I depress the gas pedal all the way to the floor when I turn the key it starts easily but rumbles and smokes a little when it starts. If I do not press all the way down it won't start right away but will take 5 or 6 tries or not start at all. Otherwise the car runs fine once its started.
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My 2010 Fusion SE has 44,500 miles on it. It is the 4cyl. model with a 6 speed manual transmission. I have had the oil changed every 4-5,000 miles, never had any issues. Today when I went in to get the oil changed the guy told me a synthetic blend is required, and he wanted to charge me an extra 20 bucks for the oil change. I looked up in owners man. and it says SAE 5W20 and some Ford nomenclature for the minimum requirements for quality, etc. My question is this, why haven't any of my other oil changes required an up charge to a more expensive oil? I would have noticed. Does this car really need synthetic blend, and if so, is it really better than conventional oil? Have my previous oil changed damaged the car?
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Mechanic at work told me to run 10-15 k.
My truck is my daily driver for work and such. Occasional 300 mile round trips to see family.
Last time I changed my oil was in June. And I've put about 6500 miles on it.
I run royal purple 15-40
I just not sure what to believe. Maybe someone has a link to an article ?
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The trans fluid appears to need to be changed. I do not know if it has been changed in the past as this 2001 F150 with a V6 truck is new to me and has 88K miles. I am wanting to drain the torque converter as well as drop the pan and change the filter. I am willing to take the risk of having to rebuild the transmission if the flush junks it up.
Three Questions:
1. Is there any issue with mixing the synthetic with ATF fluid as there would still be ATF in the cooler and other places unless I take it someplace and have it mechanically flushed?
2. Is there a way to determine if my 4R70W trans has a drain plug in the torque converter with out getting under there, looking thru the inspection port while some one is clicking the starter?
3. Is there any reason not to put a drain plug in the pan while it is uninstalled?
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Looking for changing transmission fluid to synthetic with next change. '05 Camry LE V6 with 100,000 miles. The fluid was changed last year by the previous owner, but as with many other new owners, I like to change out most/all fluids so I have a fresh start. Any issues with changing to a synthetic or is the Toyota fluid already synthetic/semi ? Also, would you consider 100,000 miles too high to change the engine oil to full synthetic ? Oil was changed by the dealer when purchased 2 weeks ago and still looks like new, but prefer using a full syn as with the wife's car, my Highlander, and my Harley.
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It appears that after you unsnap the three clips you have to loosen the clamp between the air cleaner box and the intake manifold and separate the air box top from the rubber tube before you can access the air filter. However there appears to be hinges on the back of the air filter box that gave the impression that after you unsnap the three clips you can open the lid.
I have not found any step by step instructions to tell me the correct steps to perform to access the air filter
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I have an 07 SE (manual transmission). In cold climates has noticed a noise at startup on a cold engine when the temperature is below freezing (colder than -5C or so)?
The engine has to be cold (like sat overnight) and the outside temp has to be cold. Then at start when I turn the key, the engine starts fine, but as I release the key from the start to the run position I hear what sounds like the starter motor make a noise (short zipping sound).
At first I wondered if it might be slow to disengage, but if that shouldn't make a noise because the gears should be meshed ok? There is no noise with a warm engine, or with a cold engine on a mild day.
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Original owner of a 2007 Toyota Camry XLE with 96,000 miles. Here's my problem.
Right about a month after I bought the car, I noticed that the car would jump/speed up suddenly when the car changed from 2nd to 3rd gear. Here are some additional symptoms of the problem.
-This only appears to happen when the car is shifting these gears for the first time of the trip. All other times of the same trip, the gears change finely.
-During the first few years of owning the car, this problem only happened when the outside temperature was cold. It wouldn't happen in the summer time.
-Over the years, the problem appears to be independent of temperature
-This problem hasn't caused me to make any repairs to the car and the car runs without problems.
-I'd like to understand what the problem may be so that it doesn't get worse. It seems like it's getting worse and more noticeable.
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Steps or pictures to show how to change the headlight ballast on 2007 Toyota Solara....
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I have a 4-cyl 2007 Camry XLE. I changed out the plugs, simple enough. but now the car seems to be idling too low, just a tick below 500 RPM. Its causing some minor vibrations as also the AC is not working at a stop, it just blow warm air. As soon as i push on the gas the RPM jerk up pretty sudden, the air pressure from the vents increases and its cooler. So it seems the AC issues is related to the RPM being too low so once i get the RPM's back up it should be good to go.
These are the stock Denzo SK20R11 plugs that were in the car : [URL] ....
And these are the equivalent NGK IFR6T11 plugs i put in [URL] .....
So, I thought maybe because the ECU got reset maybe some re-calibration, but I have driven a good 100 miles on it and no change so i doubt that's it.
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I have a 07 Camry XLE. My previous battery started dying on me so I changed to an Optima Yellowtop battery. Next day the check engine light came on, and sometimes while idle the car starts stalling, it never turns off though just that the RPM goes really low and the acceleration is really slow and it feels like the car is having trouble accelerating. Today it happened again but I was over 60MPH and hitting the gas pedal and it seemed to stop accelerating a few times.
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I recently did an oil change on my wife's 4 cylinder 2007 Toyota Camry which has about 126.5k miles so i was suggested at Autozone to use synthetic 10w30 instead of the conventional 5w20 they put at the shop when my wife gets an oil change. So i did a oil flush and did the oil change with the new synthetic 10w30 and now the Camry feels really heavy and has difficulty accelerating at first. It also makes a really loud squealing noise (like when your breaks are bad) when it first accelerates. Should I go back to conventional 5w20 even tho it has so many miles? Is there anything else wrong that i should get checked?
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Any way to change the display settings so the screen does not come on at startup? I find it very distracting to drive with the NAV on when I don't need it, but it's a pain to always have to go through the menus to turn it off every time I drive. Can't find anything in the manual on this.
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I read that I can change the start up pics on my GS nav screen when starting the car. I like the default ones but would like to try something new. When I went to transfer my images in the directory, it asked if I really wanted to delete the existing ones. I was under the impression that what is default remains and that I can install new ones also. Does the default ones will be removed from car nav system?
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Its been getting quite cold here lately at night and in the morning when i go to the santa fe it makes a ticking noise for about 2-3 seconds and everything is fine again. I was thinking of dropping a quart of transmission fluid in the crankcase run it for a bit and change the oil?
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Today I decided to do some maintenance on the truck as it needed an oil change and some other unrelated misc stuff.
1. I seafoamed the engine thoroughly. I bought two cans of this stuff, half of a can went into the fuel, another half can in through the brake booster vacuum hose, and I dumped a full can of into the oil. Took it for a 30 minute drive, let the ol' gal smoke as it usually does on a seafoam, and then changed the oil. No noises, I noticed immediately improvement in acceleration.
2. Upon intial startup after the oil change, I thought the motor was coming apart. It was only for about two seconds, (i was counting to make sure) if it didn't have oil pressure and no noise by 3, I was shutting it off. It hasn't done it since.
Is it possible I just knocked some crap loose in the heads causing the oil drain a lot faster into the pan than I expected? I'll try it again in a few hours after everything has cooled off and oil has drained back into the pan, but I wanna make sure I didn't damage anything. Still drives good, no problems, no noises since.
The last oil change I did, I didn't do a Seafoam, but I figured with winter coming it's a good idea to get her running in top form. I used Pennzoil Platinum 5w20, with a Motorcraft oil filter for those wondering.
Truck has 133K on the clock, and it's had the slight cam phaser tick since I've purchased it, no other problems. I bought it almost a year ago.
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How much would it harm a car to put "regular" engine oil in it instead of the recommended synthetic oil...
...if I did it just once?
...if I did it regularly?
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My car is less than a week old. My salesman told me that my 2010 Prius III has conventional oil in it. However, one of the sales managers said all 2010's come with synthetic from the factory. The pamphlet with the owner's manual says it has synthetic oil as well. I don't know the advantages of going to synthetic, but I know you can't switch over later.
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