Camry :: 2007 XLE Stalls And Check Engine Light On After Battery Change
Mar 27, 2014
I have a 07 Camry XLE. My previous battery started dying on me so I changed to an Optima Yellowtop battery. Next day the check engine light came on, and sometimes while idle the car starts stalling, it never turns off though just that the RPM goes really low and the acceleration is really slow and it feels like the car is having trouble accelerating. Today it happened again but I was over 60MPH and hitting the gas pedal and it seemed to stop accelerating a few times.
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I have a small problem with my 2011 Camry base model manual transmission. I replaced my rear view mirror and installed the EC homelink with compass rear view mirror as the replacement. I followed the instructions and it works fine but after connecting the battery again and turning the car on my check engine light stays on. I had the same problem when I installed my HID head light kit and I disconnected the battery and apparently it reseted the computer because the check engine light turned off, but I tried to disconnect and reconnect the battery twice now after installing the mirror and my check engine light is still on. How to reset it?
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A few days ago I noticed a whining noise coming from the engine and thought it was the power steering unit or the alternator. I was going to bring it in to the dealer this week but last night while driving, the check vsc light and the ABS light came on momentarily and then went off. Then it happened again and again until the lights began to dim and the engine started to shudder. So I quickly started driving home and saw the speedometer going from 0 to 60 mph, the headlights were practically off, the power window would not close, the console lights alternated from dark to lit repeatedly and the car was bucking as I sped home.
I knew the car was running on the battery alone and it was now very low.When I finally had to stop at a traffic light it stalled and would not start. After waiting 20 minutes for a tow truck, I tried to start it and it started. So I immediately drove approximately 3 minutes to a Service Station near my home and parked it there and then canceled the tow truck. Does this sound like the alternator went bad? I should also mention that yesterday before this whole incident took place, while I was stopped at a light with my food on the brake I noticed the brake pedal depress ever so slightly. I didn't think much of it because I knew I had an issue with that whining noise and was going to bring the car into the dealer Monday.
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My wife's car has 83000 miles on it. We bought it as a factory certified pre-owned vehicle with about 1800 miles on it and it came with the warranty. For the last two years the check engine light comes on with code 441 I don't worry about it till time to get inspection sticker here in Texas. I have been about to reset the computer and drive it till the computer is ready to be inspected and it has passed for two years. Now it won't reset and I have tried to test the vacuum switch and it seems to click when I apply voltage but light won't go off. This code can cost up to about 2000.00 to try and detect. I am not interested in having the dealership keep guessing on my dime.
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Im a newbie to the Camry's. Picked up from a relative a 07 Camry for $5k. It has 103K on it.
It has an issue to where it has some codes and the check engine light on with P0018, P0019, P0300, P0302, P0306 codes. They just all cam eup al lof a sudden while driving. Slight miss at idle which is the misfire codes but I can't pinpoint the issue for the P0018 and P0019 codes.
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Today my check engine light came on and the code is P0712. When I drove off from the parts store, the check engine light suddenly went off. What should I do at this point? What are the most likely problems/solutions.
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I have a Camry 2007, V6 and 3 weeks ago speedometer stop working and brake light, ABS light and check engine light came ON.
I had the car checked and P0500 code saying speedometer malfunction. All 4 speed sensors has been checked OK, computer engine replaced nothing change, all 3 lights are on and speedometer is not working.
I also noticed if I pull the connector from SKID control ECU I do have the same lights ON so with or without the connector plugged the same lights are on. Looks like no communication between SKID control ECU and....
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I recently bought a 2007 toyota Camry le v6 with less than 38,000 miles it currently has 39,300 miles and my check engine light is on along with the VSC and a skid control light (car with squiggle lines behind it) we have a had lots of rain here where I live and I had to drive through a couple deep water puddles. I looked up online and it said The engine light may turn on if the VSC and skid control lights are on. Could this be that the sensors maybe got wet? I don't think anything should be wrong with this car considering it's a toyota with less than 40k miles
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The wife and I took her Santa Fe to our local dealer yesterday afternoon for an oil service. I take them a Mobil 1 5 quart jug of 5w20, and they supply the factory filter.
At any rate, today while she was running errands today the battery light comes on. As I suspected, the alternator is not charging. The battery is good and strong, but I do not know if it will run the car for the 25 mile drive back to the dealer.
I also see that the alternator is directly below the oil snout where the tech would have put the new oil back in yesterday. I am wondering if he drenched it in oil, and thus the reason for the light.
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My wife started her 2010 Camry (4 cylinder) this morning and the Oil Pressure, Check Engine, and Check Battery lights were all on.
She turned the car off, waited and started it back on and the same thing.
I rushed our kid to day care and her to work before coming to work myself, I haven't had a chance to check anything.
I replaced the air filter and cabin air filter over the weekend and the oil was changed at the dealer 2 weeks ago.
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2006, 2G, 43000K. This has happened twice now. Both times on an extended trip of 3+ hours in hot weather: Cruising along at about 70 MPH, the engine just quits. RED Triangle; check engine light; and vcs light. Turned everything off. Car would not restart right away, but after waiting 15 minutes or so, the car restarts and runs fine. All warning lights off except check engine light.
Immediately drove to a Toyota dealership where the following codes were found: P0AOF info 204 (Engine failed to start); and P3190 (poor engine power). The Tech checked the EFI relay; checked for oil puddled in intake; and checked for a contaminated MAF sensor. "No problems found"!
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My MIL light came on today for some reason. The owner's manual mentions it may be tied to an emissions problem. I just purchased this car a few months ago and had the oil changed two days ago for the first time. Could there be any connection? What are the most common reasons for the light coming on? I know with other types of cars, that light could mean one of many different things.
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My 2001 accent 4dr will start up no problem when everything is cold, but once I let it idle for about ten to fifteen minutes and if i shut it off, it will start back up but then it stalls and wont start back up, or if i just let it run a little bit longer it also stalls, no problems with fuel pump or relay when it is cold it starts right up, but once it stalls it wont turn back on....the pump is getting power even when its hot so could it be a bad wire or should i test the coils when it gets hot or am i completely looking at the wrong thing?
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So, I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent. It drives great. Until recently.
My wife noticed that it was cranking a little longer than usual before starting. Then, one day, I noticed it. So, I stopped the car and restarted it to see if it would happen again, and listen more closely. But, all ti did was crank.
I became upset and went in to do some research and make some phone calls. I came back out and voila, it magically worked fine again. Weird, I thought.
A few days later, no incidents. We go to the grocery store. On our way out, it cranks longer. This time I'm not going to restart it, I think. So, I start driving and everything is great. Except...it suddenly wasn't accelerating. It felt like it was in neutral for like 100 feet or so, then back to normal. We're making plans to take it into the shop at this point.
The next day, we go out to get coffee. Car drives great. On our way out, no problems. We stop at the red light, and it stalls. I have to push it into a parking lot and call the tow. Strangely enough, it starts again ten minutes later, and runs fine.
The stalling and being unable to start for tenish minutes phenomenon has happened three times.
We took it to the shop, it actually did this as I was filling up gas--stalled. I pushed it into a space and waited a few minutes, bam, it started up fine. The mechanic told me that the engine light had been reset. He couldn't figure it out. Said everything looked great.
So, the run down is this:
-My car stalls when idling, but only after it has been driven some, stopped, and restarted without a lot of time passing--like when you're coming home from the store or something, after it sits for 30 or 40 minutes.
-Once stalled, it will not restart again until a few minutes have passed --something like five to ten minutes.
-There is no check engine light. Fluid levels are good. Connections and whatnot, according to the mechanic, looked good.
-When it stalls, all the electronics stay on and work. The oil light and engine light pop up (like this key is in and turned part way), then it all goes away when the car restarts.
-the computer says that it was reset after it does this.
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I have a 93 Town car that runs good until it warms up to normal running temperature, then the check engine light comes on and the car falls all over itself and sometimes stalls. I have changed everything but the kitchen sink Re; fuel filter, fuel pump, gas tank, IAC motor, TPS, cleaned out cats and when you scan it no codes show.
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Had the oil changed today; before doing so, I saw that the check engine light had come on. Have been told by 3 professional car maintenance people that there is no connection between needing oil / oil change and check engine, that it would have been the check maintenance light.
Will take it in for diagnostic test by dealer. Also, was told by the oil change guy that he heard pinging which could mean that the car needs to have the valves adjusted, and that the check engine light is due to needing something or other with the gas tank filter which could have a leak/crack, etc.
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I have a 2002 Toyota camry and for the last few or so, the check battery light has been coming on and off. it stays on for a day and then goes off for a day or so. I have had my mechanic check the battery, the alternator and he couldn't find anything wrong with either of them. the alternator is working good, the battery tested at 730cca and 13.5volts. what is wrong and is it safe to keep driving this car?
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So I go and get my oil change on Sunday at a local place. Oil change is done and later that evening my engine light comes on (solid orange). I call the local VW service and they say its nothing to worry about. "Maybe a little moisture got inside my gas tank." The service manager said to continue to drive it like nothing is wrong and it should go off. Here I am two days later and its still on. So should I be worried?
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After taking my 2009 Corolla S to the dealer on 4/07 for an oil change, about 4 or 5 days later the check engine light, the traction control light, and the VSC light come on (VSC off blinks). The first day it came on, I took it to autozone to look the code up and they said it was P0353 (issue with ignition coil c I think). I immediately afterwards drove to the dealer to see what they would say. But after parking in their garage speaking with the greeters, they said the light wasnt on, and asked if I wanted to wait the 2 hours to see a tech. So I took it home.
The code came back about 3 days later, and this time there was a slight stall/jolt for about 4 or 5 seconds. This occured on startup and not during driving. After the 4 or 5 seconds of the mild jolting it felt like it was running smooth. I took it home and after leaving it off for about 20 minutes, the light went out again. A couple days later it came back and stayed on over night and was still present when I started it the next day. It went off again later that day.
My question is what could be causing this that might be a simple fix. Do toyota techs check anything with the spark plugs during normal Oil Changes? I know they checked my brakes but Im not a car guy and am not really sure all that they do. Could it be a loose spark plug? Code P0353 coming up sporadically after dealer Oil change. Is there any steps they normally do during the oil change that could be causing this, like leaving a spark plug loose after checking them or something? Would the coil / wiring harness fall under an engine warranty?
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I have a 2001 F350 with the 7.3 standard trans. The previous owner put a toggle switch to control the EBPV as an engine brake, I've never used it. It blows white/blue smoke when cold but has for the last 4 years and doesn't seem any worse now.
Last fall I ran the truck the lowest on fuel that I ever have, the light was on for a long time and I thought I would run out. I made it to the gas station and filled it up then drove home. The next time I drove it I went about 25 miles and it started to buck while going up hill. This got worse and eventually the check engine light came on and it stalled.
It wouldn't start again so I had it towed home. I got it started a couple hours later but it would run really rough and only for a minute or so then stall. It will usually start again once or twice and stall, then it wont start again until it has sat for an hour or so.
I didn't have a code reader at the time so I started reading threads. Here's what I've done to date.
Changed the oil and filter, it was way over do. New fuel filter.
The oil level in the HPOP stays about an inch from the top, I've checked it a few times after its stalled.
Dropped the tank and cleaned the screens in the pick up, no change.
The ICP had oil on it so I replaced it and a new connector, no change.
Changed the CSP with a grey one, no change.
Changed the IPR valve with one from a buddy that was on an engine that was running. The truck ran rough for a min then settled down and ran smooth. I let it idle for 20-25 minutes with no problem so I thought the problem was solved. After sitting for a month or so I fired it up and its back to running rough then stalling.
I bought a Vgate ELM327 connector and downloaded FORScan on my laptop. (I'm still not sure what I'm doing). These are the stored codes P1281, P0475, P1316, P0478, P0470, P1211. I cleared all the codes. I did a buzz test cold and the Injectors all sounded the same.
I monitored the truck while running (rough) the IPR is staying around19.92%, ICP is 701.4psi. After 5 seconds the ICP starts to climb and so does the IPR, at 12 seconds the IPR is 37.11 and ICP is 1835.1 psi the it stalls. The fuel pw,ms is around 2.50-3.0 until before it stalls, then its 1.66. The only codes that come up are P0475, P0470, B1473.
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My Lexus was working fine till yesterday, but today when I started (button press) it, it started giving me a Check VSC error and Check engine light along with Slip Indicator started showing up
Took it to Autozone for the codes and got
P0015
P0304
C1201
B2799
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