Camry :: 2007 XLE - Radio Don't Use Aux Any Longer
Jul 27, 2009
My Camry is 2007 XLE model with JBL sound system (radio + separate amplifier). As the previous owner installed shitty aftermarket radio and nav, I've decided to remove it.
I've installed new JBL radio bought on Ebay ( I presume this is 2009 or 2010 radio). Everything ( radio, cd changer and bluetooth) work fine except the AUX jack.
Why the AUX does not work. I've tried the radio test menu, and it shows all the time, that AUX is not connected. However I've checked the harness and it is fine ( from AUX adapter to radio, according to camrystuff.com).
Maybe my new radio does not use AUX any longer, but something has changed, like USB has been introduced, instead of AUX, etc.
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Radio controls no longer function. Only the volume and the seek buttons work. Have to use controls on the steering wheel to make any changes.
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My car had some minor front end damage repaired by a body shop. Since I got it back the a/c takes longer to start blowing cold air. If I drive it daily the a/c starts up normally. But if the car sits for a few days, it may take anywhere from 3-5 minutes before it blows cold. I've taken it back to the body shop who has in turn taken it to a dealer and nothing was found.
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As I understand the radio is on the rear window of the car and every time i listen to the radio and turn on the rear defroster I get static and I can barely hear the radio. Is it possible to buy a different antenna and mount it somewhere else instead of using the one on the window?
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I just purchased an 07 Camry LE. The dealer was sloppy in detailing it, and while spraying the dash, got fluid behind the radio lens, which now has run marks on the back. I need to remove the radio lens safely, The lens moves around a bit, so I think it should be able to be removed.
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I have searched online for a week a now and I can't find a simple description of wiring scheme for the factory radio. I have remove it and I am try to install an aftermarket unit. I count 22 wires coming into the factory unit and I cannot assign a function to all of them.
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I'm having problem on my camry 07 lights I checked the fuses under the good and under the steering wheel but everything seem fine...
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I have a 2007 Camry XLE with a four cylinder engine. Noticed radio and clock quit working. The radio screen is blank. None of the buttons work. Popped hood open to check fuses and noticed corrosion on positive battery terminal. Cleaned battery terminals up and still nothing on radio and clock. Everything else seems to be working correctly. Checked smaller fuses for radio1 and radio 2. Checked all other small fuses in engine compartment and under dash. Still not working. I also pulled battery out and had Oreillys check it. It was good. Not sure what it could be.
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IHeart Radio has stopped working. Getting a connectivity error. Pandora works great.
Verizon Samsung S5 and a 2014 ES 300h. Phone has Android 4.4.4 with the latest Lexus Enform app. I've deleted and repaired the bluetooth connection and reloaded the Lexus app on my phone.
Also, bluetooth will randomly disconnect when making calls occasionally.
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A friend recently replaced the alternator on my 1991 740 Volvo GL. I got a used one that was a B230FT system, although not sure what that means. I think my 740 GL model is actually a B230F? Anyways, the alternators looked different, the old one was a Denso and didn't have blades. The new one is a Bosch with blades and slightly larger than the original. My friend had to make some modifications to the connections, basically clipping off the end of one of the wires, and exposing the wire so he could connect it to the new alternatlow beam headlights are too dimor.
My car is running, but my to see anything at night so I have to use the brights. And the dash lights, clock, and radio no longer work. The radio does not have "code" on it. It doesn't turn on at all. My mechanic says we have the wrong alternator on there, that the electrical system is different. But other sources said it would work fine. Is this true? Could the wire that he stripped and connected not be fully grounded resulting in these weird electrical failures? I'm still driving the car to work, but it makes me nervous.
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I have a 10' F150 and the radio has frozen. It will turn on but only displays the compass, Ext Temp, and time. All three of those items flash every two to three seconds. The controls in the steering wheel and dashboard no longer work (volume, seek, media, voice control...).
Things I've tried that haven't worked:
1. Turning the radio off and on
2. Restarting the truck
3. Pulling any fuses associated with the radio in the sub fuse box not sure of the technical name).
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Lent the wife my 02 camry le, and i just went to go out and the keyless is no longer working!
I thought the battery was dying cuz she says she didn't do anything. But she also insists she used the key to open it, not the factory fob/keyless.
So i was playing around with a second fob and it also isn't working.
After playing with the buttons, every now and then the lock function will work, and I think it unlocked. But not like yesterday (1 press).
I have a hard time believing the fobs are both on the way out, but is there something that she could've done that disabled the keyfobs?
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Toyota Camry 2000 , 195,000 miles
Last couple of months or so, my vehicle would intermittently stop accelerating, especially when climbing hills. A couple of days ago, the vehicle is completely unresponsive when pressing down on the gas. The vehicle revs, but won't go forward. It will only go in reverse. Everything else is working in the vehicle.
I went ahead and put about a half quart of transmission fluid. Still nothing.
Other information: the vehicle has been leaking engine oil and transmission fluid for the last several months.
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I had my car serviced a few weeks ago and realized that one of my Smart Keys (the one I was using when I drove to the dealership) no longer works with the car. It won't unlock the doors or start the car (neither wirelessly nor when plugged in to the dash). The other fob works fine. Are there any scenarios where a Smart Key fob gets rejected from the system?
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I had a remote start installed on my santa fe and initially it worked great. Recently it stopped working correctly. The car still starts but my heat/defrost will no longer turn on. I have tried every combination possible but when I get in the car the heat is turned completely off and will only turn on when I put the key in the ignition and manually start the car.
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I had four tires replaced and my oil changed on my 2007 Prius. When I picked up my car, it no longer recognized the signal from my key. I could enter the car by pushing the unlock button and drive it by putting the key in the slot, but it won't work remotely. My second key also doesn't work. The tire shop insists this has nothing to do with the service they provided. I disagree and expect them to pay for the dealer to reset the signal. How this could happen? The key has been working fine before the tire replacement and oil change.
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Car details: 2002 Toyota Camry V6 3L LXE - 151k miles.
My car took a little longer than normal to start up one morning, but I attributed it to the especially cold weather. I didn't have any problems the following two or three mornings, but my car suddenly died in traffic as I came to a stop, as it had many times before. What made this incidence different in particular was that I didn't feel my car shake or shudder before it shut down. I simply looked down and the Check Engine, oil, and battery lights had all come on, and my power steering was gone.
I attempted, as usual, to restart my car, but the starter only sat and tried to turn over and nothing more. Once I gave it a little gas, it caught, but as soon as I let the engine idle, the RPM dropped to 0 and the engine died. I sat and kept my foot on the gas for a minute or so after I got the car started in hopes that the car would stay on - when I let up, it idled roughly close at a very low RPM for several seconds, shuddered, and then died.
I was unable to get out and under the hood to try the typical trick of unplugging the MAFS and plugging it back in again, so I'm not sure if this would have worked as it has before despite having been replaced. Actually, before I was able to do this again, wouldn't you know it? My starter died. My car started giving a grinding, choking noise when I tried to start it up again, so I simply had it towed to the mechanic.
The mechanic declared the starter dead, which is unusual given I just had it replaced several months ago (could just be a lemon, I guess), so I had it replaced and they said the car started and ran great afterwards. They could not replicate the problem (like previous times), the computer gave no codes.
I noticed after the starter choked, my odometer lost power and my clock reset.
Is it possible that it's some problem with the battery?
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So the story begins last year when my inside front passenger handle no longer would open the door. I replaced the actuator with one from Ebay which worked great for a few months. Then suddenly everytime that I would press the fob twice to unlock the pass. doors the locks would unlock and then continue trying to unlock for about ten seconds. After pulling every door panel and unhooking each actuator individually, only after unhooking the one that was already replaced did the issue stop. It had a warranty so it was replaced and worked fine for about a month. Now I'm having an issue with my doors not staying locked. No matter how I try and lock them (with the exception of manually flipping each lock) they lock and automatically unlock like a door is open or key is in the ignition.
I tried reprogramming the locks to shut off the autolock thinking that may possibly fix the issue however even holding down on the lock button doesn't keep them locked so.....no reprogram mode.
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02 Ranger 2.3 4cyl 5 spd 115K.... My A/C seems to take longer and longer to start cooling/ When it does start cooling it seems that is is actually colder than it has ever been (original owner) and the control is more sensitive to the touch when moved. Being a 4 cyl it's easy to detect when the compressor kicks in and it seems each time it is taking longer to do so. If I stop the motor, it goes thru the same cycle of time or longer before cooling (compressor kicking in) again. No codes, No unusual noises.
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My wife left the lights on in the 2001 Camry and completely draining the battery. I tried to jump her but the car would not start (turns over great). Also the electrical system was strange in that the lights would not go off and other electrical items did not function. I disconnected the battery and fully recharged it and put it back on. I noticed that the "ALT" (100A) fusible link was blown and replaced it. Car still will not start (turns over great). The electrical problems appear fixed however the radio does not work. I tried to read the codes on the ODB and got "ERR". I checked all other fuses and they are good. I checked the pin-out voltage on the ODB port and was reading ~11.5V. I am wondering if I missed something like is the ECM bad? I can replace this myself for $150, but if I have it towed to a dealer it will cost me $800. Is there a way I can be sure that the ECM is bad, also are there other things to check that I may have missed. Also, when I turn the key to the "on" position, but do not start the car, the "Check engine" light does not illuminate.
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2007 Ranger 4.0.... Initial start of the day it cranks a bit longer than it should. After warm, it starts fine.
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