Camry :: 2007 XLE - Idling Too Low After Plug Change / AC Is Not Working At A Stop
Sep 30, 2013
I have a 4-cyl 2007 Camry XLE. I changed out the plugs, simple enough. but now the car seems to be idling too low, just a tick below 500 RPM. Its causing some minor vibrations as also the AC is not working at a stop, it just blow warm air. As soon as i push on the gas the RPM jerk up pretty sudden, the air pressure from the vents increases and its cooler. So it seems the AC issues is related to the RPM being too low so once i get the RPM's back up it should be good to go.
These are the stock Denzo SK20R11 plugs that were in the car : [URL] ....
And these are the equivalent NGK IFR6T11 plugs i put in [URL] .....
So, I thought maybe because the ECU got reset maybe some re-calibration, but I have driven a good 100 miles on it and no change so i doubt that's it.
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I have a Camry 2007, V6 and 3 weeks ago speedometer stop working and brake light, ABS light and check engine light came ON.
I had the car checked and P0500 code saying speedometer malfunction. All 4 speed sensors has been checked OK, computer engine replaced nothing change, all 3 lights are on and speedometer is not working.
I also noticed if I pull the connector from SKID control ECU I do have the same lights ON so with or without the connector plugged the same lights are on. Looks like no communication between SKID control ECU and....
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my wife drives a 2008 toyota camry 4cyl. she has about 86000 miles so i figured i would do a little tune up. change plugs, filters, injector clean, etc. while changing the plugs i seem to have broken 3 of the 4 pressure tabs on the plugs that plug into the coil. for the time being i have the pressure tap electrical taped very tightly onto the plug. What I should do? or is that common to for those to break off. I didn't even really use a lot of pressure either.
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Back to my 2007 FWD 2.7L Santa Fe. It has no Visors because a prior owner had them break and fall while driving, hitting them in the face. They dangled by the vanity light wires. They tore them out to get the visor out of their face before an accident happened. I priced new visors at $230 a pair plus shipping online. Ouch, a lot for another set of junk visors!
Recently the car stumbles and the ESC and engine light comes on. Had the codes checked then I and surfed the web and found it to likely be the TPS but the only one to fix it would be of course be the dealer. Diagnosis is $125. plus $70 part plus installation and then $105 to reprogram the TPS. I found the part online for $35. I will install it and then take it to the dealer to program it. So $140 instead of $500! I have yet to do that because I took the TB off and cleaned it. It stumbled a few more times and then ran fine for weeks. Its doing it again though once in a while, some days nothing happens others it happens 4 or 5 times. So I will have to get it done sooner than later. I have however found that it wont stumble and die if I put the car in neutral before I come to a stop. It just happens when its in gear, otherwise it runs fine. So until I take it in to replace the TPS I will use that technique.
I will follow up once I have installed the new TPS and had it programmed so you all will know if that took care of it. I have read some installed the TPS and in short time the computer adjusted to where it worked fine but fuel mileage was poor. Being I know how to drive it to keep it from dying at a stop now, I will wait until I get time and $100 to take it to the dealer for programming.
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I just got my oil changed and the company replaced my air filter. After about I week I cannot get my car to run for very long. I notice my car shutter at a stoplight. After I arrived home I turned it off thinking no problem. When I went to go start it up again. The vehicles rpms jump up in down usually between one and zero. When the rpms hit zero the car dies and you can do the start it up again and the same thing happens. While it does this routine the car shutters or feels jumpy.
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I had a previous post regarding this when it started, but it seems to have now changed. Twice this morning, both while idling still in traffic, my engine stalled. Turning the key it starts right back up and runs fine. I'm hoping that it doesn't morf into stalling at speed.
Originally this happened 2-3 times a couple of months ago. It would die and then catch itself and keep running. Again, each time while idling in traffic. Once or twice it also seemed as though it was ignoring the throttle request for just a second, then took right off.
Two things come to mind, and OBTW, no codes thrown ever. What do you think about throttle position sensor or gas pedal issues! I'm wondering if it's losing track of throttle position and taking it to a low level and a stall?
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It appears that after you unsnap the three clips you have to loosen the clamp between the air cleaner box and the intake manifold and separate the air box top from the rubber tube before you can access the air filter. However there appears to be hinges on the back of the air filter box that gave the impression that after you unsnap the three clips you can open the lid.
I have not found any step by step instructions to tell me the correct steps to perform to access the air filter
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I am the original owner of a 2007 Camry SE V6 with 95K miles.The car has been meticulously maintained. About 2 weeks ago I started to notice a mysterious sound coming from the passenger side of the engine ONLY when the engine is idling. It has a higher, light pitch but when revving the engine slightly it goes away. Obviously when driving it can not be heard with all the other road noise etc. Also it makes this sound at different times, sometimes days with no noise, very irregularly. I checked that section of the engine bay and see no moisture, leakage or discoloration anywhere. Also serpentine belt shows no wear or wobble. Could it come from the water pump? I am very concerned that something will soon snap off, break and leave me stranded.
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Original owner of a 2007 Toyota Camry XLE with 96,000 miles. Here's my problem.
Right about a month after I bought the car, I noticed that the car would jump/speed up suddenly when the car changed from 2nd to 3rd gear. Here are some additional symptoms of the problem.
-This only appears to happen when the car is shifting these gears for the first time of the trip. All other times of the same trip, the gears change finely.
-During the first few years of owning the car, this problem only happened when the outside temperature was cold. It wouldn't happen in the summer time.
-Over the years, the problem appears to be independent of temperature
-This problem hasn't caused me to make any repairs to the car and the car runs without problems.
-I'd like to understand what the problem may be so that it doesn't get worse. It seems like it's getting worse and more noticeable.
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Steps or pictures to show how to change the headlight ballast on 2007 Toyota Solara....
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2010 UK Santa Fe manual box, suddenly will not set Cruise Control. At same time gear change advisory indicator also stopped working. OBDII tester will not initiate to check things out but first time I have tried this. Fuses checked all OK (I think).
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I have a 07 camry I4 with 56,900+ miles and it was using 10w30 conventional oil, but recently (2 weeks ago) I change it to 5w30 Mobil1 synthetic and today notice at start up white smoke, it didn't do this before with the conventional oil.
Is this normal with this type of change from conventional to synthetic or should I worry and try to go back to conventional and see if it stop.
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I have a 07 Camry XLE. My previous battery started dying on me so I changed to an Optima Yellowtop battery. Next day the check engine light came on, and sometimes while idle the car starts stalling, it never turns off though just that the RPM goes really low and the acceleration is really slow and it feels like the car is having trouble accelerating. Today it happened again but I was over 60MPH and hitting the gas pedal and it seemed to stop accelerating a few times.
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I recently did an oil change on my wife's 4 cylinder 2007 Toyota Camry which has about 126.5k miles so i was suggested at Autozone to use synthetic 10w30 instead of the conventional 5w20 they put at the shop when my wife gets an oil change. So i did a oil flush and did the oil change with the new synthetic 10w30 and now the Camry feels really heavy and has difficulty accelerating at first. It also makes a really loud squealing noise (like when your breaks are bad) when it first accelerates. Should I go back to conventional 5w20 even tho it has so many miles? Is there anything else wrong that i should get checked?
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My Mom has a 07 Camry with only 40k miles. Today she's coming from the store & said the Brake, ABS lights came on and Speed, RPM & Temp gauge stop working?
The car still drove fine but it freaked her out! After 1/2hr everything worked again?
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So I have a 2011 Camry XLE with the touchscreen navigation. For a few months now, I've had problems where all of a sudden the audio would just stop working. The screen would gray out and I can't change any of the settings even if I am parked. I tried turning off my car and turning it back on, because that sometimes fixed the problem, but now it just doesn't work at all. I took it to a friend, who is a mechanic, and he said he can't really find anything wrong with it. When I get this problem, I can't adjust the volume from the steering wheel or the main volume dial and nothing beeps when I press it, like it usually should.
A few other things to note. When it does work, I will drive normally, but if I accelerate too fast or turn too hard, it cuts off again. Is this a problem I can troubleshoot myself or should I go for an aftermarket radio? Although, I prefer to have navigation.
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It blows luke warm air, no hot or no AC just luke warm... what could it be?
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Radio controls stop working can only make changes from steering wheel. Is there a way to reset the radio so the buttons will work?
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Me and my fiancee have a 2013 Camry SE and we've been having issues with our fuel gauge... It randomly will just stop working... First time it happened she just got in the car from work and it was at empty. When she got to work it was at half a tank... It took about 20-25 minutes of driving for it to slowly reach back to half a tank.... What could/would cause this malfunction?? And then today on her way to work it did the same thing..
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Bought the car used a few months ago with a little less than 72k miles. At 72k miles, I replaced all brake pads. Car now has 75k miles on it. Wife just got back from a 1k mile road trip with it.
I took it for a little ride, and noticed this problem about 3 times, it doesn't happen every time. There is no vibration or anything when slowing down and stopping. But, a few times, when the car was at, or almost at a complete stop, the brake pedal would feel like it was buzzing a little bit, and I could hear a springy sound. I tried to reproduce it with hard braking, but couldn't. Seemed to only happen with slow, gradual breaking, and when the car was just about at a complete stop. Brake fluid is full. No lights on dash. Asked my wife if she slammed breaks at all, or had any problems, she said no. Then she said she experienced what I did once, when she was at a rest area, stopped
The only thing I can think to compare it to is how the brake pedal feels and sounds if you lock up your brakes, and the ABS is doing its thing....which I haven't ever done with this car...
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I want to change spark plug, took connector of spark unit and took bolt M6 out, lifted spark unit but not enough clearance to remove the unit in order to use wrench for unscrewing spark plug. How it works?
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