Camry :: 2007 - With Rear Defroster On, Can't Hear Radio
Mar 13, 2016
As I understand the radio is on the rear window of the car and every time i listen to the radio and turn on the rear defroster I get static and I can barely hear the radio. Is it possible to buy a different antenna and mount it somewhere else instead of using the one on the window?
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Why can't hear the radio with the rear defroster on ??
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At some point in time I noticed that when I turn on the rear defroster a hiss develops in my (factory-installed) radio, operating on the FM band. Most of the time this hiss is strong enough to mask the audio entirely. I noticed, too, that one or possibly two "printed wires" in the rear window may no longer be operating; however, I don't know whether this is connected to the hiss problem.
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I own a 2008 Elantra
So for a while now I have noticed that I often have a great deal of static on my radio during my ride to work. I was stumped because it only happened occasionally and affected every channel, AM and FM. Today I discovered what was changing to cause the static. Whenever I have the rear window defroster on, there is static on the radio. Turning the rear defroster off, stops the static immediately. I have checked all other electric devices in conjunction with the radio, and it is only caused by the defroster. My understanding is that the antenna is built into the rear window, so the cause and effect seems obvious.
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My radio has great FM reception except when I turn on the rear wndow defroster. When I do, the radio sounds faint and crackly as though I were listening to a very distant station. As soon as I turn off the defroster, the reception comes back to normal. This is on a '09 Sonata limited - this did not happen on my previous '08 Azera and '06 Sonata LX...
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I recently bought a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe from a rental company. So far the only problem is that the radio and front defroster sometimes turn themselves on. Just today we were driving and the radio came on. Then later when accelerating it seemed sluggish, and I noticed the front defroster was on. I turned it off, and a few minutes later it came on again. It happened about 5 times while on the same 5 mile trip. Will be taking it to the local dealer/service center after holiday weekend.
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So I have the dreaded "rear defroster/radio static interference" issue on my 2011 Corolla LE. I turn on my radio and all is good. I turn on my rear window defroster and my FM reception goes away.I am pretty sure I did it to myself because it only started happening after I cleaned the rear window with some windshield washing fluid and a paper towel. I do have a knack for being a bit gruff on things and people unintentionally so I guess I am not surprised. I must have damaged the elements of the rear defroster in the process of cleaning the window. I should have left it dirty.
Anyway, I've read many posts detailing how breaks in the rear defroster grid can introduce EMI that effects the factory radio antennae in the rear window. Some of the answers I have seen suggested are:
1) replace the rear window (really?)
2) use a repair kit. URL...
3) completely replace the the rear defroster grid with an after market kit. URL...
4) replace the factory antennae with an after market unit that is not internally mounted
5) live with it
Are there any other options that I haven't found? If the root cause is the rear defroster, the repair kit seems like the way to go (even if it looks like an annoying task to perform upside down in such tight and cramped spaces). Might fix the defroster if its broken but will it resolve the EMI problem ...
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I have a 2007 Honda Civic 2 dr. A couple years ago the manufacturer cell phone charger was blown in a few days of use with the cigarette lighter. The manufacturer replacement was next blown, and then a cheap off-brand was blown. Last fall, turning on the rear defroster began causing static interference on the FM stations. Several months later, I noticed that use of the cigarette lighter as a cell phone charger also caused radio static.
Next week, the rear windshield will be removed and replaced during a body repair. Should I ask for a replacement windshield, or just for attention to the connection with the electric? What else can be done about either of these causes of FM static?
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so I have a 2010 Camry and I'm 99% certain the rear defroster doesn't work. I came from a 2000 Camry where, upon pressing the rear defrost button, the rear window would clear up within like 5 minutes (literally-- that thing was fast), but my 2010 Camry doesn't do that.
I drove for about 15 minutes last night and saw no change whatsoever. The orange LED lights up when I press the button (and stays lit) for the rear defroster, but I'm not seeing any results.
Is there a fuse I should check? the orange LED comes on and stays on when I press that button, but I'm pretty sure nothing's happening. This is the only problem thing I've ever noticed that's wrong with my car.
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I have a couple of things going on with my 2014 Toyota Camry. My car was in a recent rear end collision and I noticed the other day that my rear window defroster is no longer working. I waited 15 to 20 minutes and still nothing. The side mirror defrosters work fine. One button turns on both my rear and side mirror defrosters. The extent of the rear damage did not go past the trunk lid. They did replace the lid, but I'm not sure why that would make a difference. The rear window was not replaced. There was also some quarter panel damage underneath that required welding. It was working fine before the body work and now it's not working. Would could be the likely cause? I'd rather fix it myself if it's quick, rather than spending time taking it back tot he body shop.
The other problem...I was on a road that had a drop off on my passenger side. The lane slightly narrowed for some odd reason for just for a few feet. The front right side tire went off road and the front of my car hit the pavement pretty hard. I couldn't see any damage underneath, but of course that doesn't mean there isn't any. When I was driving to work this morning I could hear a humming noise that only got louder as I drove faster. It wasn't a continuous hum. You could hear a break in between hums but the breaks were more frequent the faster I drove. I'm not too sure what that is either? A wheel bearing?
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First time I'm having an issue with my Toyota Camry 2009 model.
See video: [URL] .....
I'm wondering if this is a starter issue because the battery seems to be fine (can turn on radio, lights are working). The strange thing i noticed was that the light on the rear windshield defroster was blinking. I haven't turned that on in months.
Also, is this covered under warranty ? I bought the extended warranty when i purchased the vehicle in 2008. If i'm not mistaken I'm still covered under it. Is there a place (online) where i could check my extended warranty period ?
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This my first toyota camry and noticed rear window defroster to take a long time to defrost morning mist from rear window. At 5 mins idle i start to see the defrost lines is this normal?? In my 14 accord rear window would be completely defrosted in 5 mins.
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My Mazda 626 makes alot of noise. I can hardly hear the radio without blasting it. My mechanic (Firestone) says it's normal for that car. I have had a wheel bearing replace 2 years ago and the tires (Firestone FR) are relatively new and the alignment is good. Do I simply have to live with it. I also have a 1995 Ford Taurus (for sale) and a 2005 Hyundai Sonata and neither make anywhere near the noise that the Mazda does.
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Tonight I was driving while I had my radio and navigation turned on and I made a phone call to a friend and the screen said the call connected and my friend could hear me but I couldn't hear him. I called 3 times and got the same result.
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Just purchased my 1st SUV - 2012 Nissan Murano. Rides good, handles great. Seats a little firm. Problem: when the radio is on (not really very loud), can't hear the click of the turn signal -- it's set at a very low volume. As it doesn't stop clicking after changing lanes, how can I increase the sound of the click so I'm not one of those goofballs driving down the freeway making a perpetual left turn?
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My Camry is 2007 XLE model with JBL sound system (radio + separate amplifier). As the previous owner installed shitty aftermarket radio and nav, I've decided to remove it.
I've installed new JBL radio bought on Ebay ( I presume this is 2009 or 2010 radio). Everything ( radio, cd changer and bluetooth) work fine except the AUX jack.
Why the AUX does not work. I've tried the radio test menu, and it shows all the time, that AUX is not connected. However I've checked the harness and it is fine ( from AUX adapter to radio, according to camrystuff.com).
Maybe my new radio does not use AUX any longer, but something has changed, like USB has been introduced, instead of AUX, etc.
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I just purchased an 07 Camry LE. The dealer was sloppy in detailing it, and while spraying the dash, got fluid behind the radio lens, which now has run marks on the back. I need to remove the radio lens safely, The lens moves around a bit, so I think it should be able to be removed.
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I have searched online for a week a now and I can't find a simple description of wiring scheme for the factory radio. I have remove it and I am try to install an aftermarket unit. I count 22 wires coming into the factory unit and I cannot assign a function to all of them.
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I'm having problem on my camry 07 lights I checked the fuses under the good and under the steering wheel but everything seem fine...
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I have a 2007 Camry XLE with a four cylinder engine. Noticed radio and clock quit working. The radio screen is blank. None of the buttons work. Popped hood open to check fuses and noticed corrosion on positive battery terminal. Cleaned battery terminals up and still nothing on radio and clock. Everything else seems to be working correctly. Checked smaller fuses for radio1 and radio 2. Checked all other small fuses in engine compartment and under dash. Still not working. I also pulled battery out and had Oreillys check it. It was good. Not sure what it could be.
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Just bought for around town. Problem with starting. Turn ignition and sometimes hear grind. Second try in neutral and she starts right up. I don't know if it's problem with key ignition/coil, or the starter.
Also need to convert a/c, fan ok but no cooling. Is this major cost to convert?
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