Camry :: 2007 - When Step On Gas From Steady Cruise, RPM Will Rise Up To 4K
Jul 24, 2014
Model 2007 Toyota Camry 4cyl
Milage 121K
Service preformed by me @ 119K:
- changed sparkplugs (toyota part)
- changed drivebelt (toyota part)
- changed new battery (Costco battery)
- changed engine air filter(toyota part)
- Oil change every 5K
- Trans flush (toyota part: Type WS fluid: 16 Qts)
- Transflush also preformed at 60K
Problem: So beginning of this week I was driving on the HWY and as most of us like to overtake while driving, so I stepped on the gas pedal hard. The vehicle downshifted to lower gear and RPM got up to 5 to 6K for 3 seconds then suddenly vehicle slowed down. When this happened it was like hitting a brick wall. I don't know if the engine braked so hard or transmission did. I never had this happen to me.
No transmission noise or engine noise. Car at the moment runs fine. The problem is that now every time I step on the gas from steady cruise, RPM will rise up to 4K or so and I do feel that vehicle down shifts but RPM will drop down to 2K and slow climb as vehicle picks up speed. So during this time I can floor the gas pedal but very very little response of the engine. Its like something is holding the vehicle back.
So I went to autostore to see if I have any pending codes as no check engine light or abs...
One pending code came up: C1241 (Low Battery Positive Voltage)
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It started snowing going down to 10-15 degrees during school hours. and whenever i go to turn my car on it starts but immediately the RPMs rise to about 1300 and then immediately drops to about 300 then immediately back up to 1200 but stays steady until it warms up then drops to normal about 700. i understand the cold start when it idles high until it warms up but why does it drop then come back up?
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I have had my 07 now for a few months. The other day during a trip, I noticed my TPMS light began to blink, and then stayed constantly on. I checked my pressures at the end of the day and they were all right where they should be, including the spare. When I start the car, the TPMS light will blink for some time, and then it will go steady and stay illuminated.
Took the car to a tire shop and they hooked the tpms scan tool up to the car and told me I had a bad sensor. I did some reading online today and it seems like a lot of people say the sensors that come from the factory for these cars only last for about 5 years until the internal battery dies.
For what it costs to get one sensor replaced, knowing that the car is 5 years old and the other 3 sensors are prone to fail, I see some people are making little PVC canisters and putting all 4 sensors in the canister and pressurizing it to make the light go away. But my sensors are broke, and if I bought new ones I do not have a tool to program them.
Is there anything that can be unplugged, or a wire that can be cut or grounded to make this stupid, pointless light go away or am I pretty much at the mercy of the tire shop/dealer to replace the sensor and make the light go away?
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I had a motor go bad, overheated, replaced it with another motor. Got it all back together and upon test drive I am having a low rpm (below 3k) bad hesitation/misfire. The engine runs just fine at wide open throttle.
First thing i checked for were plug wires and vacuum leaks. The only difference between the old block and the new block is the fact that i replaced the MAF with a new one, as i was getting a maf code on the old engine. I can't get it to throw a code...
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What all is involved in replacing this switch? I was assuming it was as simple as removing the bottom rear cover on the steering wheel and swapping it out, but I wanted to check beforehand.
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07/ES350. Feel vibrations when the lever is on D or R? It started to vibrate a little bit on D, when the engine is hot. No lights. I noticed that when I shift in D there's no rpm rise.
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I have recently purchased a 1998 Toyota Camry 4 cyl. I had to replace the water pump as it was leaking coolant, I also changed the front and rear brakes and also the front rotors. As I was driving it after the brake change I noticed that I would seem to lose power, kind of like it wasn't getting any fuel or something. My rpms would go down, but most of the time would quickly rise again when I pushed on the gas.
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The MIL came on (steady on, not blinking) about a month ago on a very rainy day. The car felt sluggish going from stop to start and at low speed, but then it was OK at higher speed (>40 mph). I checked the fuel cap, which was tightened appropriately. I went to my mechanic. His computer diagnosed the problem to be malfunctioning of the "throttle position sensor". I had the throttle position sensor replaced. About two weeks after the new sensor was put in, the MIL came on again and went off in two days. Two days later it came on again (steady, not blinking) after I drove to work in a downpour. This time the car had no problem getting from stop to start and at low speed, but could not go over 45 mph. I went to my mechanic again. The computer diagnosis this time was "system too lean". After three dry days when I drove only very short distances, the MIL went off. What is going on? are computerized diagnoses always accurate? why did the MIL seem to be related to wet weather? I bought a Honda Accord because of its reported reliability.
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I recently installed an aftermarket rear spoiler with third light. While searching and testing for a hot brake wire to hook up to, I somehow accidentally shorted out the brake lights. They will not come on when i step on the brake pedal.
I checked the corresponding fuse and it is still intact. The brake light symbol on the dash is "on" so I know the "brake light out" sensor is still working....is there something im missing in getting the brake lights to work again ?
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I have a 1999 Toyota Camry (4-cylinder). When I step on the accelerator, it hesitates for a moment before accelerating. Once it finally does kick in, it isn't jerky but fairly smooth, just takes a while before it will go. Other times, when I accelerate, and the car is actually moving, I feel as though the RPMs are higher than they should be considering the (slow) speed that I'm going. These problems have increased quite a bit over the past few weeks.
Prior to this, my check engine light came on. An autozone employee checked the code related to the light and said I have a faulty EGR. He didn't seem to know whether or not this would be at all related to my acceleration problem. Someone else suggested that an EGR's importance is more environmental than functional. While I'm all for "being green"...can only afford one problem at a time, and the acceleration problem comes first.
If the two are connected, and if not, what my acceleration problem might be? How critical is a properly working EGR anyhow? The actual code according to autozone was EGR P0401...
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Just purchased my 2007 Passat 3.6 FWD and we just love it but having hesitation problem? This only happens from a stop, when you step on the accelerator it seems to have a delay of a second or two before the engine response.
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So I put the car up and in gear and around 25/30 mph, the sound shows up and gets worse as the speed increases. It does not get worse in turns. And it is very consistent- not clunking or clicking, just a steady sounds almost like strong wind over an object. I replaced the wheel bearings in both front wheel assemblies about a year and a half ago.
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I want to install it in my 2013 camry se. [URL].....
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This is an annoying thing. for example when i just have to step out for 3 seconds and grab my mail I don't want to shut off the entire car and restart it.
1) Is there a way to leave the ignition running and get out of the vehicle and lock it?
2) I heard we can go to the dealer to enable the remote start feature, is this true? or would we need to do a 3rd party addon?
2008 lexus es350 i have
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I know there is a reset switch in the glovebox but would that fix it? I went from 16" steel wheels w/ hubcaps to 17" oem SE wheels.
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I'm trying to figure out what has failed on my 2008 Santa Fe.
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The left turn signal works normally.
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I just had my front brake pads replaced by a local shop. I am now hearing a clunking noise every time I step on the brakes. I got the brake pads from the local Lexus Dealership but had them installed by a local shop. Is it normal to have this clunking for the first couple hundred miles until the brakes "wear" in or do I need to have someone else look at the brakes?
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I have an 07 King Ranch. I need to remove the rubber step off the rear bumper to paint it. Due to a typical Ford paint job it is rusting already. Can I just pull up on it ? If so should I wait for a warm day to prevent breaking the clips?
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