Camry :: 2007 Warming Up Whenever Struck In Traffic And Putting Brake Too Many Times
Mar 7, 2016
My Camry 2007 showing strange issue , whenever I struck in traffic & putting brake too many times heat indicator show car is warming up & dial reaching to mid level same is the case whenever I stop on a signal
To counter this I have to run ac so that radiator fans will turn , after turning on ac it start reaching to normal.
This issue starts happening few weeks back ,before it never shows such issue, is it the coolant that I need to replace or what ??
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A couple weeks ago, I noticed the a/c air warming up while I was in traffic. Later the car started overheating while the a/c was on in traffic, but cooled back to normal as the a/c was switched to econ. As of a few days ago my a/c air is not cold at all anymore, in traffic or moving. And now today, my car overheated in traffic without the a/c on, but returned to normal after I waited out the freeway blockage and drove home when the traffic speed was higher.
I've been reading threads on here for about three hours now and going out to run tests. It appears that neither fan runs on low or high speed. I want to check the fuses, but the fusecard is like reading hieroglyphics. It appears that slot 25 (with a picture of a fan) might be the right one, and after checking it appears intact. Questions:
- Is there a fan fuse? Is it #25? Are there more than one?
- If the fuses aren't the issue, is there something else to rule out before removing the fans for inspection and cleaning or replacement? (controller module, thermostat, relays, etc.?)
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I had a previous post regarding this when it started, but it seems to have now changed. Twice this morning, both while idling still in traffic, my engine stalled. Turning the key it starts right back up and runs fine. I'm hoping that it doesn't morf into stalling at speed.
Originally this happened 2-3 times a couple of months ago. It would die and then catch itself and keep running. Again, each time while idling in traffic. Once or twice it also seemed as though it was ignoring the throttle request for just a second, then took right off.
Two things come to mind, and OBTW, no codes thrown ever. What do you think about throttle position sensor or gas pedal issues! I'm wondering if it's losing track of throttle position and taking it to a low level and a stall?
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My grandma has a '07 XLE 4cyl with around 65K on it.
Every once and awhile, completely intermittent, no consistency whatsoever it takes 4 seconds or so to get the car to actually start. Normally 1-2 seconds.
Was going to change plugs. See that you have to replace the whole pump/strainer assy. in the tank, no stand-alone filter.
No DTC's or any other lights on. Wondering about replacing the whole pump/strainer assy. will fix it or what the deal is. Can't order it online at Advance Auto parts, and called their store and the Denso one they show isn't even listed as available at the factory. Hope you don't need an OEM one, sure that's not cheap.
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i just picked up an '07 Camry XLE and every time I start the car (push start button) the horn gives me 3 quick honks. Same happens with the remote start. How to turn that off? Besides just not starting the car
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My 07 Camry SE just started doing this. I turn off the vehicle. Lock the car with the remote. After a few minutes, the car beeps 3 times. I've checked all the doors, windows, lights. Everything is closed or off. It keeps beeping 3 times after every few minutes. This Camry does not use a smart key.
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Bought a 2011 Santa Fe in May. When I'm warming up the car, there is a banging or knocking sound coming from the passenger side wheel area (I think). The colder the outside temp, the louder the sound.
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With thunderstorms in my area and roads partially flooded. Something struck the bottom of my b5.5 puncturing the oil pan. The car stopped on me and wouldnt start. All electrics died as well. No oil in the car will do this right? Anyway, with Geico, I had my car towed to a shop in the area. They want 650 for a new pan and labor.
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I am a new driver and I made the following mistake twice.
Twice over the last month, after street parallel parking, engaging the foot parking brake, turning off and exiting the car, I noticed the spacing from the front and back car is a bit off so I went back inside the car to move the car slightly.
However, I forgot to disengage the parking brake first, so I put the car into R, and when the car did not move, I tapped on the accelerator. Only then did I remember to disengage the parking brake.
If I just tapped on the accelerator slightly, does it damage my car? I haven't noticed any problems yet, but I feel terrible about the screw ups.
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...Is there anything special that needs to be done for brake bleeding after putting in a new master cylinder? I decided today to flush my system with my vacuum bleeder and now my pedal slowly falls to the floor at a light...No problems in a panic stop or otherwise, just falls to the floor slowly when braking...no leaks, so I'm assuming a master cylinder is an order....
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In the past I have had my fuel Gauge go down 1 bar after about 60 miles traveled. Since my last fill up my fuel Gauge has only gone down 1 bar (9 still ON) after 185 miles travel. The gauge appears to be struck with 9 bars ON after 185 miles traveled!, Any fix to a stuck fuel Gauge indication?
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I'm putting new brake pas on my front and I want to know what is the best type to put on there. I ave a 2006 F-350 Dually.
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My husband and I have a 2007 Yaris (purchased new in May '07) with 23,300 miles on it. He's super-religious about taking the car in and getting it serviced and maintained regularly. But we noticed a few days ago that the A/C wasn't putting out cold air. My first thought is that it's simply out of freon and needs to be serviced.
But it just seems odd (or at least to this know-nothing!) that it could be out of freon already. My husband mainly drives it and says he doesn't run the air "any more than anyone else." Is it possible that even at 14 months it's just simply out of freon? I've never heard of a car's A/C system running out of freon so quickly.
Also, we were out of town for a week; the car wasn't driven during that time. We noticed the problem the first time we drove it upon returning home. That couldn't have anything to do with it, could it?
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My Accent is a 2007. It regularly has the check engine light come on. They continually claim it's the fuel cap. When it's colder, even when it's been running it continually stalls when your putting it in reverse. They also claim that's not a problem. It's only got 25K on it. So the fact that it's already have problems is rather annoying.
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My mechanic noticed an engine vibration when he was installing my new brake pads and rotors. He noticed the vibration when putting it in reverse. He then checked the engine and mounts. He then asked about the timing belt. I told him the belt was changed at 62,000 miles. The Accent currently has 76,000. He thinks that the belt may have jumped or a counter balancer is not working right. I do not know if the 2007 has a counter balancer. Any diagram of the timing belt, pulleys and counter balance (if it has one). It is a 2007 GLS with auto trans.
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Heading out on 4 week 3k mile road trip. Have 12v adaptors for a very efficient laptop and smartphone.
It seems that in "Accessory" mode the PIP is using only the dinky 12V battery so this is not a healthy solution. Is there a recommended strategy to put the car in semi-ready mode and reduce all possible drain so that utilizing the 12V will not be draining the traction battery reserves much at all?
I'm thinking that perhaps trying to put the car in "ready" mode with the FOOT OFF the brake indeed fires up access to the traction battery without firing up other things that require the full power monty that Ready mode with the FOOT ON the brake requires. Seems to me the PIP is a great mobile office solution if we could gain access to traction battery reserves without running much else.
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Current Situation: I got my winter tires put on last week. I use the same rims for both sets of tires.
Problem: Driving out of the repair shop I noticed a sound coming from the front right of my vehicle which wasn't there before. I kept it off the road and made an appointment. They saw it today and said the right front wheel bearing is shot.
History: I got both axles replaced last year due to super worn out CV boots.
Possible complications: The first shop I went to (Auto Express in Amherst MA) did a crap job, and the clip holding the axles in place came off while driving. I didn't trust them at this point, so I had it towed to XYZ to get it put back on. No problems since.
Question: How likely is it that the mechanic at XYZ did something to cause the bearing to wear out suddenly? The noise started immediately after the tire change and was clear and noticeable. It was not there before.
Car: Toyota Camry with 147k miles on it.
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Just noticed that when I lock the doors with the remote or when the doors auto lock when putting the car in gear, the right rear door does not lock. upon watching the process, it appears the the actual lock itself does not move all the way to the locked position. However, if you lock it twice in a row, it locks. it would appear that something is blocking it to close all the way, like say gum or some other type of sticky substance but I could not find any.
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I have an 07 v6 SE with 220k on the clock. Recently switched out my rear pads with no problem, but still had a small shake under braking - so tonight we pulled the front wheels off and switched the front pads and rotors out - did an oil change while it was there.
On it's first test drive - there's something wrong. The brake pedal travels all the way to the floor and is SUPER soft. It still stops. If I mash the pedal, the car will come to a sharp stop - testing on some sandy roads, the front brakes are definitely working - but the front pedal travel is WAY more than it was prior to the pad/rotor maintenance.
We ran out of light, so tomorrow we're going to get some new fluids and flush the system in case we got air in it.
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The 3rd central brake light is not working. I looked at the manual to find where the fuse is but could not find it.
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I drive a 2007 toyota camry. This winter the brake light has come on twice - each time after driving for at least 30 minutes on very slushy, cold conditions. The first time, the brakes were still working fine - I pulled into work, topped off the fluid and the light went off. Flash forward two months later. Same conditions, the light came on and as I was looking for parking, the brakes went out. Pedal was soft, emergency lights went on the car said to "CHECK VSC". I pulled into a parking lot and the brakes were once again working, but the lights were still on.
I had the car towed to a Firestone where they were unable to determine a problem. The next day, all the lights were out on the dash. I had the car towed to the Toyota dealership and not only can they not recreate the issue, but when they pull the numbers from the car, there is no indication that anything has ever been wrong with any system in the vehicle. They told me they've called Toyota Tech and there has never been a report of this issue. They want to release the car back to me, but I do not feel safe driving this car.
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