I just recently purchased an 07 Camry V6 with the 2GR-FE engine. I looked at the dipstick over the weekend and was surprised to see it was a quart low. I asked a friend about this and he informed me that Toyota engines are notorious for burning oil. Is this true? I previously owned a 94 Camry V6 that did not have this problem. Also, is there anything I can do to prevent this from happening, or slow down the burning.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2007 Toyota Camry with 110,000 miles that is burning oil too fast. A farm mechanic told me I should put thicker oil in it- straight SAE 30. It is a 4 cyl, 2.4 L Automatic. I had a oil and filter change less than 2 months ago, have driven maybe 2,000 miles. The oil is below the first dot. The manufacturer says to put 5W 20 oil in. I live in central North Carolina, so below freezing temperatures aren’t an issue. Last oil and filter change, they checked for leaks and they said it was clean underneath with none. Also, is it possible the car is burning the oil fast because I live in a warmer climate and I’m using the thinner oil? Is it ok to put the thicker straight SAE 30 oil in it? If yes, can I add it to what’s already there (5w 20)?
View 19 RepliesI have a 96 camry that has a minor oil leak. I have taken it in to get checked, and the mechanic told us that as long as I'm willing to keep putting oil in it every month, I don't have to fix anything. However, lately the car has been making a burning smell, especially when I turn on the heater, and when the car is low on oil. Also, my oil cap has some yellow gunk on it. I'm concerned that this means water is mixing with my oil.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius with regular (non HID) headlights. I have probably replaced them 10 times since I bought the car new. Has it been determine what the fix is so they don't keep burning out?
View 8 RepliesNo noticeable oil on the ground and there's no noticeable exhaust smoke. I have 207,000 miles on it and don't have any intention of making any major repairs. Usually using Castrol or Quaker State regular 0w-30. I'm the original car owner that keeps a 5 quart oil jug handy.
However, where the oil "might be" going and is there an additive that I may could use to slow the oil usage down?
I drive about 225 interstate miles and about 175 surface street miles weekly.
My mom's 02 Camry is burning oil and I can hear something rattling. The car has 177k miles and my mom bough it new and always cheap out on it. I have looked under the car and do not see any obvious oil leaks. When the car starts after siting overnight you can see a small blue puff come the tail pipe but I have not seen any blue smoke after start up. I have uploaded a video of the rattling here. I had my bother start the car with the hood open but I could not hear any rattle. So I started the car and move it little to start the rattle.
View 8 Replies2004 V6 XLE Power Steering Leak *pics* ... The problem now? Car doesn't start. I've done all the 'usual' checks and I am totally baffled.
So I was dropping my friends off at night. When I had the car in reverse to get out of the parking spot, turned off my AC and drove to park my car on the road. My ears heard something 'different' from my engine, like a 'wurrrrr' noise. I first thought it was my power steering pump was making noise (see my previous thread why). I pulled on the side of the road this is what happened.
I open my hood to determined my fluid for PS was OK. I noticed a 'burning' smell like something rubber was burning or metal getting super hot. I turned my car off and restarted the engine. The car cranked but it crank very slowly, lights dim and it started almost like a weak battery. Maybe battery? The 'wurrr'/buzz noise was coming from the belts area and was RPM related. Car did rev fine without any hesitation. [URL] ....
As I had the car on for a minute to take a video (below), I was in my car when I noticed light smoke coming from the right side (drive belt) area. I immediately turned off my car and attempted to see where the smoke was coming from.
After 10 minutes, I wanted to see if it would still start. Nope. Just rapid clicking of starter (See : [URL] ....)
It was dark so I couldn't do much (iPhone w/ flash light app), but I did check all what I could above and below the engine. I didn't see any burn wires or grounding either. So I was thinking...
-If AC or Alternator seized up/locked up, the car would still start but belts would burn, right? Same with power steering?
-Timing belt torn or tensioner sized? If belt torn, engine would crank freely though? Tensioner would usually just make a bad noise, right? Wouldn't really account for the 'weak' starting prior I think?
-Electrical problem such as a short within alternator/ac compressor....
Lately my 2002 v6 has been smelling like it's burning oil from under the hood. Around the front exhaust manifold, there's a wet black "powder" type substance. Oil levels are fine and the car has also been driving without any issues. The car hasn't overheated but then again, I live in NJ where the temperatures don't go above 35F.
I'll be posting a picture tomorrow.
The car has 144k and the timing belt, water pump, spark plugs were done at 120k.
I have a used Toyota Corolla 2007 that has engine problems
I bought this for $8000 in Dec 2012 and did not realize the previous owner was using synthetic oil. I used the regular oil and changed every 3 mins. At one point I started seeing a lot of smoke and the oil was burning quickly (like in a month for 300 miles). The oil change guy recommended to use synthetic oil and that should remove all the sludge. It's been a year I am using the synthetic oil and I still have the sludge issues.
I took the car to the mechanic today and he is saying the piston rings could have worn out and asking to rebuild the engine and that would cost $2800 including the taxes. My wife will be using this car to drop and pick up the kids from school. So I don't want to take any risks. Should I go ahead and rebuild the engine?
I have a 2007 passat when I drive it constantly to turn the engine off immediately because the oil is low, it even did this right after having the oil changed. I had the oil pumped changed at the dealer per their recommendation and even after that the car still gave me warnings about low oil every time I drive it. it's to the point now that I am afraid to drive the car. I had the car chipped at 1500 miles there is now 77,000 on it so I've basically had it chipped since new.
View 4 RepliesI had an incident in December where we left the house and drove less than a mile when the oil warning came onto the MFD. I pulled into the local gas station and had to pour two full quarts of Mobile 1 in order to bring the level up onto the dipstick.
As the car is still covered by the VW Assured warranty, I had the dealer check it out but was told that this is "normal" though we never had it happen before (owned for two years). Really, two full quarts is normal?
Now, we have had two incidents since then when the car starts rough and the check engine light flashes. With the first incident, the dealer found that one of the coil wires had "come loose." It is back at the dealer now for the second incident, but i don't see a cable coming loose twice in just a few weeks.
Could these be related to the oil incident? Car is a 2007 early build (2006) wagon with the 2.0T ....
Our 2002 Camry SE V6 incurs a burning odor through the HVAC system after braking from moderate or higher speeds (at low speeds, this does not happen). It can last for a few seconds or a few minutes and then goes away (it does not happen while in motion). I cannot smell anything outside the car.
The car was inspected & serviced two months ago with no issues found. The front valve cover was replaced about a year ago but the back valve cover was OK to leave as is.
I would want to say it is the brakes or the snow tires causing the odor but it is strange it only smells inside the car.
I have a 2007 Camry XLE with 30,000 miles on it purchased new.I stated it up the other day after setting all night it had a very loud knock in the engine I shut it off and had it towed to the dealership. They started it up and wanted to know what happened they said it sounded like a rod out. They keep it several days and ended up doing a top engine flush and then replaced the spark plugs. They said it was a carbon build up.I asked if they suggest any thing to keep this from happening and they said they do not recommend using any thing. I thought carbon deposits were supposed to be a thing of the past. Does this still happen.
View 4 RepliesI changed the battery in my wife's 2007 Camry couple of days ago and the engine shakes at idle. It seems to be getting better so I am thinking the computer is relearning how to idol. Another problem it has now is the gas display. My wife says it does not seem to be showing the correct cruising range for the amount of gas that was pumped. Could this be from the computer having to relearn everything?
View 14 RepliesJust today AC started blowing air rapidly from the vents when I didn't have the AC on. The AC continued to run even after I had turned off the engine and took out the key. In fear of my battery dying I unplugged it but as soon as I plugged it back in to drive home from work it was the same thing. Where should I start?!
View 4 RepliesI'm trying to pin point the cause of this vibration on a recently replaced engine. 2007 camry 2azfe 2.4L manual
The engine runs fine at idle and drives as it should. However.. there is now a noticeable vibration and sound coming from the replacement engine that wasn't there before on the original engine
The sound seems to be coming from the intake side of the cylinder head. the sound and vibration/rumble seem to increase as rpms increase. All the engine mounts are good. it's not a rattling sound.. double checked to make sure nothing was loose.
When I received the replacement engine I didn't check the internals. the engine supposedly has around 40k miles. came in as a complete longblock. I did note that the cylinder did have some blue colored dye inside the intake and exhaust ports. I dont know what this engine went through before i got it.
It almost sounds like a loud aftermarket intake when you step on the gas. Its extremely annoying driving down the road.. because of this constant vibration/hum/rumble.
I am experiencing a strange rubber burning smell coming through their vents.
View 5 RepliesI have a 4 cyl 2000 camry. I notice the smell of burning oil when I shut off the car and while I'm driving. There is no black smoke coming from the tail pipe and it uses minimal oil. I removed the spark plugs and found oil on the threads of spark plug # 2, but not on the electrode. What's up?
View 1 RepliesYesterday I made a 3 hour round trip with my car, and on the last leg coming back into town, I noticed my check engine light came on, and I saw white smoke coming from underneath the hood of my car, along with a burning smell. Luckily I was able to make it home just fine. I've googled this issue, some people have suggested coolant leak.
Also, I checked the oil levels today and they appeared to be slightly below the lowest level tick, which could be why it was having issues yesterday. Last time I got an oil change was November of 2015. I'm surprised it's this low considering I normally don't commute farther than a couple miles each day.
I've got a 2007 2.4L Camry engine that I am rebuilding, and my son messed up the order that I took off that valve lifters. (the spacing thing that goes between the cam lob and the valve spring) I have my intake separate from my exhaust but I don't know where the individual one's go on the intake and on exhaust side. The book I have for the car does not tell me where they go.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Camry LE with 86K miles. The car was burning oil like crazy and failed the oil consumption test so Toyota put a new motor in the car. I picked it up from the dealer 2 weeks ago and after driving it 40 miles, the transmission went out. The dealership had it towed that day and now after 2 weeks of them not returning my calls or providing any update, they tell me that it was coincidence that my transmission failed 1 hour after I picked it up from them. What are the chances that it had nothing to do with the work they've done?
When I brought it in it was driving fine - the only problem was the oil consumption, no slipping or knocking. Now you can drive it for 20 minutes just fine, but as soon as it warms up, the transmission quits.