Any easy solution to reseating this wire in the connector? It got yanked out by accident when i was removing an ignition coil under the wiring harness. 2007 camry v6
View 3 RepliesI replaced my valve cover gasket yesterday on my 2004 Camry. While putting back together, three of the tabs on the connectors for the ignition coil harness snapped off and would not stay together because of tension on the harness. I tried to zip tie them because I read that in another forum post but the clips (alligator clips?) inside the connector did not seem to be making contact with connector on top of ignition coil. The car was mis-firing and running very rough.
After much frustration, I finally removed the wires with the alligator clips from inside the connector and plugged them directly into the top of the ignition coil. Well, the car started and seems to be running/idling fine although now the Check Engine Light is on. Also, I have not driven car yet.
My question: Can I drive the car like this or will the vibration from the engine eventually loosen the connections. I am planning on ordering the connectors but they will not be in for a few days and I need to drive the car.
I had squirrels eat wires to the front 3 Ignition coil connector on my a 2005 ford escape XLT,my question is the new connectors have a white and black wire and the old ones had a red and a colored wire, but comparing both old and new connectors I notice the new connector has the black wire where the old connector has a red, so do I use the black wire to replace the old Red? , it's rather confusing to me when you plug in the new connector you can see the black wire is where the red wire was on the old one, or does it matter which wire goes where?
View 2 RepliesWe bought it in 2010, since then we have replaced 5 ignition coils and 2-3 batteries. Everytime the car acts up, the VSC and traction lights come on and the car starts stumbling and hesitating. The car eventually dies within a few minutes. Pull up codes and its always been an ignition coil.
Well we had all of these covered under warranty until the warranty expired in Aug. A month ago this happened again, and thought the battery was dead. It ended up being #4 coil, so I replaced.
My wife drove last week and lights came on and lights started going on/off and dinging at her and the car died. I jumped it to get it home, turned off the car and was dead. Voltage at battery was 9 volts.
I charged overnight and started the next day. I pulled negative battery cable w car running to check alternator and it stayed running, so that's good. The car is now starting just fine again.....until this happens again.....which it will.
My question is what in the heck can be making all of the coils go bad and why is the car intermittently throwing warning lights and just dying? This last time the codes pulled we P0345, PO365, PO390. All of which I don't see an explanation for.
My 89 Mazda B2600i conked out on me suddenly about 10 days ago. My local mechanic replaced the distributor, cap, and rotor and the ignition coil and now it's running again. But starting it up at the mechanic's, I noticed a new faint sound like a clock ticking rapidly. From under the hood it sounds more like an exposed spark plug firing, but fainter.
After driving around to make sure I wasn't imagining it, I had the mechanic take a quick listen and look. He couldn't say for sure what it was, but said it was probably nothing to worry about.Taking a look under the hood at night, I saw lights running along the spark plug wires (continuous) and flashes of light where the spark plugs insert (frequent).
If one terminal of a volt meter is placed on the outside of the wire running from the ignition coil to the distributor and the other held in the air, the voltage rapidly builds up to 4 volts (a few seconds) and then immediately drops back to zero. This happens in roughly the same time frame as the flashes of light where the spark plugs insert, but I can't tell if it's the exact same frequency. What's going on?
I'm getting Codes: P0300-306 (Misfires) and P0356.
I have researched the definitions of these codes and see that P0356 indicates an ignition coil failure on coil "F" (which would be Cylinder 6?)... but how is it possible only one coil is failing but I'm getting multiple/random misfires on all cylinders?
I've looked at the wiring diagrams and the only place that I can see a "single point failure" that can cause such a thing, would be the ECM itself...
Scheduled maintenance for changing spark plugs for my Camry 2004 2.4L is either 120k miles, or 144 months (12 years). My Camry reached 12 years first. In removing the coil connectors, 3 of 4 holdowns cracked off. I guess not so surprising after 12 years subject to engine heat. I'm NOT going to replace the connectors. Looking for a patch for this problem? Duct tape will just result in adhesive getting everywhere it shouldn't. Maybe there's a high temperature "crazy glue" I could apply at the connector interface that will last another 12 years, or 120k miles?
Otherwise, I'll use the "hope adhesive". That means I'll just hope the connectors don't work loose at a bad time.
Changed the spark plugs on my 2006 Camry today. Everything went smoothly and quickly except for the fact that I broke all the little keeper clips on the connector plugs that connect to the coil packs. I called my Toyota dealers and one said I had to replace the entire wire harness. The other found the connector plugs for around $8 each. Will the broken clips be a problem with the connectors eventually coming off from vibration if I don't replace them? I'm not sure how to replace the connectors if I go that route. How to go about replacing the connector plugs?
View 7 RepliesMy 93 camry v6 has spark jumping all over the place from the coil wire.I bought some new plug wires but only used the coil so far to see a minor improvement.I'll wait till it's dark to see where and if there is any more leakage.Plug wires are only 5mm thick.Is there something better than this(duralast) out there?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Camry 2.4L, ECM 89666-06220, ignition coil 90919-02243. One of the coils has gone out. I got a misfire code on P303. I then moved the cylinder 3 coil to cylinder 4, cleared the code and restarted the car. The new code was P304, bad coil. I found a set of low mileage used coils, 90080-19023. The dealer says this number was one of the three options for 2002. But the pin-to-pin ohm values don't match.
The 90080-19023 pin ohms, 1-2= 348, 1-3=667, 1-4= 490, 2-3= 1100, 2-4= 912, 3-4= open. The 90919-02243 pin ohms, 1-2= 390, 1-3= 673, 1-4=940, 2-3= 1154, 2-4=1403, 3-4= open. How to successfully do this substitution and not burned up ECM ?
Understanding all the needed parts when replacing ignition coils on a honda fit 2007. My understanding is it is best to replace all 4 (are there 4 total?) as well as the spark plugs - also 4?What other parts are needed, does this car require spark plug wires?
Basically, Would this be a good time to replace air filters as well? Car has 116K miles.
I have a 2007 RX 350 2WD. Recently, the check engine light is on, as well we two other lights are on as well: VSC, TRAC OFF.
I went to Lexus and was told that the error code is P0356. I was told that the ignition coil F is problematic and need replaced. I was quoted 1 and 1/2 hours two 2 hours work and need $412 for the repair. Well, I went to auto zone and was told that No 2, 4, 6 ignition coils were on outside so that it would only take about 5 minutes to replace the problematic one with a new one.
I did the replacement indeed by myself after buying a new ignition coil. Initially it was fine and the light went off after a little while. However, after about 10 days, those three lights went back again. I check the ignition coil, it seems fine and I was told that it is very unlikely for a new ignition coil to go bad this quickly.
I was told that I may need to check my spark plug as well. BTW, when I start the car, the car is a little bit shaky.
Just a few weeks ago I replaced a bad ignition coil because I got the engine code P0302. I replaced the spark plugs with NGK Laser Iridium and the second Ignition coil. Now a few weeks later the Ignition coil 1 has died on me.
View 1 RepliesStarted up my car the other night and my engine light came on, trac light came on... VSC msg came on the dash, engine was rough idling. I drove it home after checking my fluids... i took the OBD scanner to see whats going on, hoping i just need a battery change. Codes popped up P0354, P0300-0306. basically ignition coil malfunction, and my cylinders were misfiring.
I am at 62k miles and warranty crapped out at 50k. the problem was obviously electric, since all 6 were misfiring, otherwise it would only be a few. I haven't had any engine work, I just recently did a proper oil change at home(royal purple 5W30), which I've done since I've had the car in 07.. I took the car to the dealership for the CPU reprogramming for the recall in April.
About to take the car back to get it checked up on and fixed.. I am lowered on coilovers and 20" rims, which gives it a rough ride, but i dont think it would cause this problem. i dont track/race the car and i drive it relatively civilized. Lowered since 30k miles and 20"rims since 50k miles.
What could've gone wrong? timing off etc... i pulled my engine cover to check the connection points for the coils, all seems fine, no corrosion on the grounding points. i was only able to check the front 3 coils, the other 3 were hidden in the back and i wasnt able to look at them. i assume they should be fine as well..
I just completed the spark plug change on my wife's '07 RX350. As the numerous threads on this topic point out, this is one serious undertaking. I'm not claiming to be a mechanic but have done my share of DIY's including changing the usual oil/filter, brake discs/pads, serpentine belt, rear hatch switch and now the spark plugs on my wife's car and the same or similar on all of my other cars. This has got to be the single most difficult project that I've tackled recently. I did fail to do the front Mac struts but this was because I didn't appear to have the right spring compressor. Go figure.
Anyhow, I found that I needed to remove the front windshield cowl to get access to that infamous third stay bolt.
To my question ... I managed to break off the tabs that lock the connector to the ignition coil on about three spark plugs. I'm concerned about these eventually vibrating off. Should I be concerned about this? Do I need to now go in and change these? Or, tie-wrap then in place?
I need to get the part number of the wire harness connector that clicks into the right abs sensor connector. The code for the connector is A4 but I wasn't able to find any info about it online. This is for a 2009 Toyota Prius. car got into an accident and the wire harness connector was cut.
See the attached pics.....
How do I get to the screws behind the ignition cylinder (where the key goes) to remove it and replace with a new one? Do i use a short screwdriver?
View 1 RepliesI replaced the 12v battery this morning with an Optima, as some here suggest. No problem, but the strap on the Optima is touching the negative connector wire. I tried squishing the battery strap under the metal hold-down bar but that doesn't work.
View 10 RepliesI changed out my plugs. The plug connector on the #3 coil no longer snaps on. My only option is to use a small ziptie to hold it in place. Can cut it off and wired a new plug end on..
View 3 RepliesAs part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.
I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)
Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?
I tried to remove the MAF in 2007 Sonata Limited, and could not figure out how. I removed a cap by lifting the tabs on the sides, but the connector with the wires was still attached. I flipped over and saw another kind of tab on the bottom and seemed to be tricky to be disengaged. I did not want to go further because I broke Toyota ignitor connector not too long ago so I know some of the connectors with plastic tabs can be delicate. I want to make sure it is more clear to me before I proceed further.
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