Camry :: 2007 V6 Tensioner Replacement - Cricket Noise With One Of The Pulleys
Aug 14, 2012
2007 camry V6 ... I have a few questions regarding tensioner replacement. i wanted to know whats normal cost for that job? I am experiencing a "cricket" noise with one of the pulleys. I had the belt replaced but problem is still there. toyota is recommending to replace the tensioner assembly quoted for 1200. is that a bit high? low?
I have reviewed pervious post with related problems but my "cricket" is on when it has a load on or not... with a/c on or off.. Any online for 2007 manuals? the online link under the stickys does not work, it dispalys a message "site has been hacked".
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2002 Camry 4 cyl. Can the idler pulley alone be replaced on the serpentine belt tensioner? I noticed a very slight side to side play when I had the belt off. No noise from it. When I looked at rock auto, they sell the whole bracket with the pulley.
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My 07 Camry V6 (2GR-FE) tensioner pulley is vibrating under load (in D or R). It gets worse with AC on. I checked all 3 pulleys, all have good bearings, and no play. The belt is in good condition, no cracks at all, still looks new. It's got 75,000 miles
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I own a 2008 santa fe SE, the belt tensioner start to making noise recently, just wonder if it's covered under the warranty so I don't have to pay out-of-pocket to get it fixed. This car have 68000 miles so far.
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After finally identifying a bad serpentine belt tensioner for being the the culprit for my engine noises, my mechanic said that the 'thru-bolt' is siezed. Since the replacement job was at my budget limit he said he doesnt want to get into it in fear that he has to brake the bolt and drill it out (requiring 2-3x more labor cost according to him).
If this is the case, and the 'thru-bolt' is seized, is this in any way something I can make a an effort to tackle? I have a jack and jack stands, and plenty of time.
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I want to say that I love my prius but I am having an odd (although minor issue).
When I accelerate a I hear a noise (it sort of sounds like a cricket rapidly chirping, only a lower pitch or maybe a phone on vibrate).
What this could be?
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I have a 2012 Camry LE 4 cylinder non-hybrid at 31,000 miles. I was changing the oil yesterday and noticed a repetitive squeaking noise from the front passenger side of the engine. Upon looking closer, the belt tensioner has a constant wobble. Maybe around 1 cm of deflection with the belt. The AC condenser was running. Is this normal? Do I need to replace the tensioner? If so, what the torque spec is for the main tensioner bolt (pivot bolt)?
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Awful noise coming from one of my pulleys. I've sadly already been to Firestone three times about this same issue... twice replacing the belt. So yeah my belt has completely torn to shreds or just fallen off while driving. They replaced my tension pulley and idler pulleys, yet after three times of them fixing crap I still have a intact belt BUT the original noise I took my car in for is still there. It sounds like a thin piece of metal is hitting something as the pulleys spin....
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My 2004 mercury sable is making a noise it sounds like its one of the pulleys on the belt area, What it might be it a grinding almost....
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I have 2005 F150 XLT 5.4 litre engine and my battery light comes on after letting the truck run on idle or sometimes driving.
Last Saturday went out drove it heater on and radio on I smelled something coming from the heater kinda like burning wire smell didn't think anything of it no smoke from heater (indicating the core was bad) no lights on the cluster nothing; went into the bank let it run came back out my battery light on. Drove it home and while driving the light goes off.
Opened the hood and the smell was coming from the alternator. So I turned the truck off. Let it sit for an hour or so then I took my voltmeter to see if the battery was good. The battery was 12.4v with engine off. Checked my battery connection for corrosion or loose connections everything was tight there was some dust on the battery terminals so I brushed them off. I checked the battery cable that goes from positive to the alternator where it connects to the alternator with that nut it was good, clean and tight.
So I started the engine up and I can hear a whining noise from one of the pulleys. Let it idle for 2 minutes no battery light so I put my voltmeter on the battery it read 13.8v, so I turned on the A/C, head lights, radio and the heater tried again the voltage dropped down to 11.9v then the battery light came back on. Also through all this my battery gauge in the cluster always stays a half way mark doesn't drop or go high. Next with the engine turned off I took the belt off checked the pulleys the idler pulleys seem fine and the belt doesn't show any glazing but the alternator was hot almost like touching a hot exhaust manifold.
So for the last 3 days I have been trying to come up with how to resolve this issue obviously it could be the alternator going bad but the battery has never lost a charge yet I let the truck sit for these past 3 days and today I started the truck and it started right up I don't see any dimming lights except it has a whining noise and the battery light didn't come on immediately I let it run for 5-10 minutes before it came on; I even drove it around the block and the whining noise gets louder every time I step on the gas. To me it's either I need new alternator, tension pulley is bad or the idler pulleys are bad but they turn fine.
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Changing timing chain tensioner? Mine is making the rattling noise on startup. Tried searching one internet for any DIY's out there. Haven't really found any good ones.
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What to do if your timing chain tensioner fails and wipes out the valvetrain. Go to www.vwusa.com and click the contact us page. Find the link for "online chat" and open a dialog with a vw rep. Have the vin, milage, purchase date info handy and tell them what happend.
Maybe I just got lucky, but I thought my (second owner) 2012 GTI with 46000 mi was toast, the rep (Bill H) told me not to worry and set me up with a case number and the location of a dearship that will confirm the damage and replace my engine.
My experience is in direct opposition of what I have read on forums when people take their GTI's to the dealership first, then after hagling with the stealership managers for weeks on end finally end up emailing vw corporate (which takes weeks to respond) and finally having the issue resolved.
Of couse, this is only if your car has not had the warranty run out. I thought that being the second owner voided the powertrain warranty...again that was false.
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I noticed the oil smell that can be associated with a leaking Cam Tensioner Adjustor Seal from my 2003 1.8T Passat a few months ago. The dealer confirmed that it was leaking and that it was covered by my extended warranty since my car was 5 years old and at 70K miles. I had the work done and after I picked up the car I noticed that the oil level was at the top of the hashes not at the top bend like it was when I took it in.
I don't know what caused it to drop to the hashes but I do know that the level has dropped to 3 visible hashes in the little over 1K that has been put on the car since then. I am concerned because in it's first 70K miles the car did not visibly lose a drop of oil.
Any logical cause for this annoying trend, the only thing that changed was that the Cam Tensioner and Valve Cover Gaskets were replaced. Is it possible something else was messed up during the repair?
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I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla with a leaking timing chain tensioner. I was able to locate a procedure for replacing the tensioner but it didn't say whether the no. 1 cylinder had to be @ TDC or not. What is the proper procedure for this repair?
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Can you change the tensioners and guides without removing the chains or getting the cam lock tools ? Doing a in truck repair to fix a squeal sorta noise at start up without the belt on coming from passenger side valve cover that lasts for about 5 sec. oh fyi CRC new freeze off works wonders compared to jb blaster for my tear down so far!
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I'm trying to replace my dads 2007 Camry XLE japan built headlight assembly because his are insanely oxidized. Besides OEM's and CAPA's, what else are there? Any good aftermarket headlight assembly and achieve great results?
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I'm trying to pin point the cause of this vibration on a recently replaced engine. 2007 camry 2azfe 2.4L manual
The engine runs fine at idle and drives as it should. However.. there is now a noticeable vibration and sound coming from the replacement engine that wasn't there before on the original engine
The sound seems to be coming from the intake side of the cylinder head. the sound and vibration/rumble seem to increase as rpms increase. All the engine mounts are good. it's not a rattling sound.. double checked to make sure nothing was loose.
When I received the replacement engine I didn't check the internals. the engine supposedly has around 40k miles. came in as a complete longblock. I did note that the cylinder did have some blue colored dye inside the intake and exhaust ports. I dont know what this engine went through before i got it.
It almost sounds like a loud aftermarket intake when you step on the gas. Its extremely annoying driving down the road.. because of this constant vibration/hum/rumble.
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My girlfriend and I were riding in her 2007 Camry SE about a week ago on the highway. She pushed the button on the cruise control switch to turn it on, and the button popped out of the end of the stalk (it did not completely come out, but popped out about an inch). She pushed it back in, but it won't turn the cruise on now.
What all is involved in replacing this switch? I was assuming it was as simple as removing the bottom rear cover on the steering wheel and swapping it out, but I wanted to check beforehand.
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Just had an oil change and during inspection they noticed that the drivers side wheel bearing is starting to go. They brought me back in the shop and I was able to feel the play in the bearing myself. Only a matter of time before it needs to be replaced.
How to replace the front wheel bearing/hub assembly? I don't have a press for the bearing itself so I'm assuming I can just replace the entire hub assembly. I have already replaced the drivers side rear hub assembly about 1.5 years back due to a bad bearing
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Looking to replace my strut and spring assembly on my 2007 Camry LE with 130,000 miles. What is the best China units out there. The list is many Prime Choice, Detriot Axle, Unity, FCS, AST, Sensen, ect.... Maybe they all are made at the same factory. FYI Monroe and Gabriel could be made in China. KYB complete units are assembled in USA, I called them up.
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How to replace the glove box lock in a 2007 Toyota Camry. I'm referring to part # 7 or 8 in the diagram below.
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