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My 07 Camry V6 (2GR-FE) tensioner pulley is vibrating under load (in D or R). It gets worse with AC on. I checked all 3 pulleys, all have good bearings, and no play. The belt is in good condition, no cracks at all, still looks new. It's got 75,000 miles
2002 Camry 4 cyl. Can the idler pulley alone be replaced on the serpentine belt tensioner? I noticed a very slight side to side play when I had the belt off. No noise from it. When I looked at rock auto, they sell the whole bracket with the pulley.
View 2 RepliesWhich way do you turn to loosen the bolt that holds the tensioner pulley to the tensioner arm?
View 1 RepliesMy tensioner pulley broke yesterday and I replaced it. But it had broken 3-4 months ago also.
View 2 RepliesI took my A/C tensioner pulley (the pulley that is on the upper left of my crankshaft/harmonic balancer) off and when I took it off, the plates and washer fell off and I wasn't 100% positive how they went back on. I mean I thought I was 100% positive until I tried putting it back on. There are two plates, one on the front of pulley and one on the back. I'm guessing the smaller 1 has to be on the front because it has marks from the nut that goes on the front. The other one in my mind obviously has to be the back 1. The thick washer "seems" to go behind the back plate. It has stain marks on it that line up with the mounted bracket behind it, that is why I say seems. The actual bolt goes in from behind the bracket. The problem is when putting the pulley back on, I tighten the nut (I can't find the torque specs anywhere) in the front and the pulley won't spin freely at all. When I loosen the nut to the point where the pulley can slide side to side it will spin no problem. Something just ain't right but what it is. Are there more parts to this thing that might have rolled off into the abyss? Did I put the parts on wrong?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Santa Fe 2.4. Couple days ago my idler tensioner pulley or whatever its called seized up and took the belt out with it. I got a pulley that resembles it from Autozone mind you that it was the only parts store that had one in stock even Hyundai didnt have the part. The only difference is the hole size for the bolt is about 1/4 inch bigger then the stock pulley. Is there any chance I can get a spacer and make up for the difference?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2008 F-150 with a 4.6. I have a sequel and I believe it is the belt tensioner pulley and / or the idler pulley above it. Looking for proper procedure to change one or both. It is pretty tight in there. How much stuff do I have to remove to get in there. Should I replace both pulleys at the same time.
View 2 RepliesMy tensioner pulley is making noise.I replaced the rear idler pulley (can't get to the front one), but still have the noise. Mention a DIY for replacing the tensioner pulley bearing. A part number for the bearing?
View 2 Repliesi just recently went to a mechanic check out my wife's car cause it was vibrating really bad, and a pulley was making a lot of noise... they told me that the alternator bearings were shot, and i needed 4 motor mounts, long story short i changed the alternator.... it wasn't the problem... had them check it again, they said power steering.... i didn't want to waist a couple hours of work again, i checked it myself like i should have done in the first place... and found out it was the tensioner pulley.... so can i get any pointers on how to change the tensioner pulley, cause i tried and i lacked about 1/4" of space to get the bolt out... do i need to drop the engine or raise it? if so how.. 2005 suzuki aerio 2.3L .....
View 6 RepliesSo from reading around a lot, it seems like the chirping is from the belt tensioner or idler pulley. That said, I've not been able to find anything definitive. I tried to do the water bottle squirt test (from Gates' youtube video) and either I did it wrong or the chirp did not go away implying the issue is not the belt. While I was looking in, I could see the tensioner shaking some.
If my tensioner should not be moving, do I just need the pulley or the pulley and the mount?
- Pulley [URL] ....
- Pulley and mount [URL] ....
Also, if the above items will fix the chirp, which brand would be best?
2007 RX 350, 113K.
Chirping gets worse as it heats up. Seems to happen independent of ambient temperature. Purchased a year ago so unsure of the history of part changes.
Looking for how to's out there on how to get all of the fan shrouding removed? I am trying to do my idler and tensioner pulley bearings and those shrouds really make it tough.
View 6 Replies2007 camry V6 ... I have a few questions regarding tensioner replacement. i wanted to know whats normal cost for that job? I am experiencing a "cricket" noise with one of the pulleys. I had the belt replaced but problem is still there. toyota is recommending to replace the tensioner assembly quoted for 1200. is that a bit high? low?
I have reviewed pervious post with related problems but my "cricket" is on when it has a load on or not... with a/c on or off.. Any online for 2007 manuals? the online link under the stickys does not work, it dispalys a message "site has been hacked".
So, yesterday I had my GLI in the shop to put a new timing belt on as well as some ECS Lightweight Pulleys. When I went to pick up the car, they did not install the pulleys. The reason they said was because the stock crank pulley has a dampener which keep vibration and balanced weight on the crank assembly and that the lightweight crank does not have these benefits.
So, now I have a set red anodized pulleys.. [URL].............
2006 6.0l ... I've read all over for tips on routing this belt and everyone plays it off as being some simple '20-minute' task. I'm on my 4th hour on this now.
I can't figure out how to route the belt around the tensioner pulley, circled in the picture (from another thread). Everyone glosses over how to do this and I can't figure it out.
It seems like the only way to get it on is to bend the belt and slide it between the pulley and the block, but that I just can't reach the blasted thing.
I've got a 2007 Camry V6. My front rotors were doing great until about 42k miles, when they started vibrating. I knew that it was relatively common, and I replaced them with NAPA OEM parts.
That lasted about 15k, when they started vibrating again.I halfway expected this, and replaced them with high end NAPA parts - ceramic pads, the high end rotor thinking that better parts would equal longer life.
So here I am about 10k or 12k later, and I've got wavy rotors again. I've let it ride for a while, but now I'm tired of it.
Is there a permanent solution for this? A particular brand of pads and rotors? Do I need to replace the whole brake system on both of the front wheels?
I own a 2008 santa fe SE, the belt tensioner start to making noise recently, just wonder if it's covered under the warranty so I don't have to pay out-of-pocket to get it fixed. This car have 68000 miles so far.
View 19 RepliesAfter finally identifying a bad serpentine belt tensioner for being the the culprit for my engine noises, my mechanic said that the 'thru-bolt' is siezed. Since the replacement job was at my budget limit he said he doesnt want to get into it in fear that he has to brake the bolt and drill it out (requiring 2-3x more labor cost according to him).
If this is the case, and the 'thru-bolt' is seized, is this in any way something I can make a an effort to tackle? I have a jack and jack stands, and plenty of time.
My son's 2007 Hyundai Sonata had an engine noise that was eventually diagnosed as bad timing chain tensioners. However, one Hyundai dealer repeatedly denied the problem, so it was 8 months before another Hyundai dealer admitted it and changed the tensioners. A couple of months later, the engine light and oil light were on and he was told he needed a new oil pump. By this time, the warranty had expired and he had to pay for the new oil pump and eventually a new engine. My question is this: Could the failure of the oil pump have had anything to do with the timing chain tensioner problem?
View 19 RepliesI was hearing some sounds from my engine and opened up the timing covers to determine where the sound was coming from. It sounds exactly like the Sienna with the same 3MZ engine in this video: YouTube ....
While I didn't find the source of the noise, I did find that my water-pump is leaking. My question is, is this water-pump leaking bad enough to be replaced? I do not notice any coolant loss and never had the need to top up.
It appears from this last photo that the pump is leaking through its pulley shaft and not at the interface with the engine:
The timing belt and water-pump were changed 3 years ago with the Gates timing belt kit from RockAuto. The pump at the time didn't look that great quality in its casting compared to an Aisin pump.
I could not feel any play or hear any abnormal sounds from the pump while it was running with the timing covers off.
This is on my 2005 Lexus ES330 with the 3MZ-FE 3.3L V6 engine, same motor as the Gen 5 Camry SE V6.
How to remove a crankshaft pulley like this one? It doesn't have any holes for bolts, to hold some soft of breaker bar in place.
Pulley.JPG ....
The crankshaft pulley on my 2001 Camry in no longer aligned with the other pulleys, so my alternator belt does not stay on...
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