Camry :: 2007 V6 - Ignition Coil Failure / Multiple Misfires On All Cylinders?
Aug 6, 2009
I'm getting Codes: P0300-306 (Misfires) and P0356.
I have researched the definitions of these codes and see that P0356 indicates an ignition coil failure on coil "F" (which would be Cylinder 6?)... but how is it possible only one coil is failing but I'm getting multiple/random misfires on all cylinders?
I've looked at the wiring diagrams and the only place that I can see a "single point failure" that can cause such a thing, would be the ECM itself...
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Started up my car the other night and my engine light came on, trac light came on... VSC msg came on the dash, engine was rough idling. I drove it home after checking my fluids... i took the OBD scanner to see whats going on, hoping i just need a battery change. Codes popped up P0354, P0300-0306. basically ignition coil malfunction, and my cylinders were misfiring.
I am at 62k miles and warranty crapped out at 50k. the problem was obviously electric, since all 6 were misfiring, otherwise it would only be a few. I haven't had any engine work, I just recently did a proper oil change at home(royal purple 5W30), which I've done since I've had the car in 07.. I took the car to the dealership for the CPU reprogramming for the recall in April.
About to take the car back to get it checked up on and fixed.. I am lowered on coilovers and 20" rims, which gives it a rough ride, but i dont think it would cause this problem. i dont track/race the car and i drive it relatively civilized. Lowered since 30k miles and 20"rims since 50k miles.
What could've gone wrong? timing off etc... i pulled my engine cover to check the connection points for the coils, all seems fine, no corrosion on the grounding points. i was only able to check the front 3 coils, the other 3 were hidden in the back and i wasnt able to look at them. i assume they should be fine as well..
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I have a 2002 Camry 2.4L, ECM 89666-06220, ignition coil 90919-02243. One of the coils has gone out. I got a misfire code on P303. I then moved the cylinder 3 coil to cylinder 4, cleared the code and restarted the car. The new code was P304, bad coil. I found a set of low mileage used coils, 90080-19023. The dealer says this number was one of the three options for 2002. But the pin-to-pin ohm values don't match.
The 90080-19023 pin ohms, 1-2= 348, 1-3=667, 1-4= 490, 2-3= 1100, 2-4= 912, 3-4= open. The 90919-02243 pin ohms, 1-2= 390, 1-3= 673, 1-4=940, 2-3= 1154, 2-4=1403, 3-4= open. How to successfully do this substitution and not burned up ECM ?
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Just a few weeks ago I replaced a bad ignition coil because I got the engine code P0302. I replaced the spark plugs with NGK Laser Iridium and the second Ignition coil. Now a few weeks later the Ignition coil 1 has died on me.
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I have a 2001 1.8T Passat. I bought it used recently and have had tons of problems. I have been getting a lean air code for some time now and I think I recently resolved that. I had to replace a few vacuum lines, MAF, exhaust flex pipe (it was broken), fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. The car was still running bad and throwing a lean air code (Bank 1) so I finally changed the O2 sensor and I think that did the trick. Now every time I start the car I get misfires until is warms up. I get misfires on all cylinders along with the multiple misfire code.
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I have a mk4 1.8t Gti. Recently I have been having issues with idle and boost. I read the codes and multiple random misfires in all 4 cylinders came up, idle control and the crank, knock, and o2 sensor came up. Shows that system is running to lean as well. I changed the spark plugs and wires, check the coil packs they where done about 1k miles so I expect them to be perfectly fine. When I clear the codes it idles below 9-8k rpms. I also noticed the breather hose coming out of the valve cover into the EGT has a hole melted into it, could this cause any of my issues?
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A few months ago I had multiple misfires due to a failed coil. When it happened I drove it enough to get to an Advance auto to have the code checked that came up. After I replaced the coil the car ran fine, but then the engine light came on with the P0422 bank 1 code. Does this mean the manifold cat converter is shot? The car runs fine except for what feels like the transmission trying to decide where it wants to be around 40mph (like it's shifting back and forth, don't know if it's related). I have a flex pipe that is leaking and needs replaced. I haven't noticed any loss in MPGs (consistently 26mpg city since I started checking). I have 133k miles.
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We bought it in 2010, since then we have replaced 5 ignition coils and 2-3 batteries. Everytime the car acts up, the VSC and traction lights come on and the car starts stumbling and hesitating. The car eventually dies within a few minutes. Pull up codes and its always been an ignition coil.
Well we had all of these covered under warranty until the warranty expired in Aug. A month ago this happened again, and thought the battery was dead. It ended up being #4 coil, so I replaced.
My wife drove last week and lights came on and lights started going on/off and dinging at her and the car died. I jumped it to get it home, turned off the car and was dead. Voltage at battery was 9 volts.
I charged overnight and started the next day. I pulled negative battery cable w car running to check alternator and it stayed running, so that's good. The car is now starting just fine again.....until this happens again.....which it will.
My question is what in the heck can be making all of the coils go bad and why is the car intermittently throwing warning lights and just dying? This last time the codes pulled we P0345, PO365, PO390. All of which I don't see an explanation for.
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Any easy solution to reseating this wire in the connector? It got yanked out by accident when i was removing an ignition coil under the wiring harness. 2007 camry v6
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Engine runs very erratically and I got ignition failure codes on all cylinders plus mixture too lean code. 2 years ago I changed the gadget that sticks right into the middle of the engine and regulates the mixture and the issue disappeared. bought the part from rockauto. should I change sparks and ignition cables or order the same part again? Never changed the ignition cables and sparks.
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Just replaced all 6 plugs after getting p0300-p0306 codes. Still getting all codes, always starting with p0305. Was told coil was bad cause the shop only was getting p0305, but I have all misfire codes. We have over 95k on it, have owned since 2008. Its the 2.7 in it.
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2007 Passat 2.0T ... I just purchased this vehicle and after about two weeks of driving it has gone bananas. I found a ton of oil in the spark plug holes, and installed a new valve cover gasket...It no longer leaks. I am getting P0171, P0507 codes and multiple misfire codes from all cylinders...
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Understanding all the needed parts when replacing ignition coils on a honda fit 2007. My understanding is it is best to replace all 4 (are there 4 total?) as well as the spark plugs - also 4?What other parts are needed, does this car require spark plug wires?
Basically, Would this be a good time to replace air filters as well? Car has 116K miles.
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I have a 2007 RX 350 2WD. Recently, the check engine light is on, as well we two other lights are on as well: VSC, TRAC OFF.
I went to Lexus and was told that the error code is P0356. I was told that the ignition coil F is problematic and need replaced. I was quoted 1 and 1/2 hours two 2 hours work and need $412 for the repair. Well, I went to auto zone and was told that No 2, 4, 6 ignition coils were on outside so that it would only take about 5 minutes to replace the problematic one with a new one.
I did the replacement indeed by myself after buying a new ignition coil. Initially it was fine and the light went off after a little while. However, after about 10 days, those three lights went back again. I check the ignition coil, it seems fine and I was told that it is very unlikely for a new ignition coil to go bad this quickly.
I was told that I may need to check my spark plug as well. BTW, when I start the car, the car is a little bit shaky.
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I replaced my valve cover gasket yesterday on my 2004 Camry. While putting back together, three of the tabs on the connectors for the ignition coil harness snapped off and would not stay together because of tension on the harness. I tried to zip tie them because I read that in another forum post but the clips (alligator clips?) inside the connector did not seem to be making contact with connector on top of ignition coil. The car was mis-firing and running very rough.
After much frustration, I finally removed the wires with the alligator clips from inside the connector and plugged them directly into the top of the ignition coil. Well, the car started and seems to be running/idling fine although now the Check Engine Light is on. Also, I have not driven car yet.
My question: Can I drive the car like this or will the vibration from the engine eventually loosen the connections. I am planning on ordering the connectors but they will not be in for a few days and I need to drive the car.
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I just completed the spark plug change on my wife's '07 RX350. As the numerous threads on this topic point out, this is one serious undertaking. I'm not claiming to be a mechanic but have done my share of DIY's including changing the usual oil/filter, brake discs/pads, serpentine belt, rear hatch switch and now the spark plugs on my wife's car and the same or similar on all of my other cars. This has got to be the single most difficult project that I've tackled recently. I did fail to do the front Mac struts but this was because I didn't appear to have the right spring compressor. Go figure.
Anyhow, I found that I needed to remove the front windshield cowl to get access to that infamous third stay bolt.
To my question ... I managed to break off the tabs that lock the connector to the ignition coil on about three spark plugs. I'm concerned about these eventually vibrating off. Should I be concerned about this? Do I need to now go in and change these? Or, tie-wrap then in place?
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So I have never worked on the 2.5 before, I have an 01 A4 1.8T so I am used to VAG products though. The other day my neighbor had a CEL light, when I read the code it was a misfire in cylinder 2. Since it was a single cylinder I told him it was most likely a coil pack but asked if he had ever done plugs. He bought the car with around 60k and it now has 90k but he didn't think they were ever done. So I suggested swapping them out with the new coil pack. So he bought a (5) plugs and (3) coils since that is all they had local. Initially he just replaced the one coil and said the car was running great. Then when he had time he threw the new plugs in (Autolite Iridium don't recall #) and put the other coils in. After doing this the car went into limp mode and is showing random misfires in all cylinders. He pulled one of the new plugs and noticed that the dimensions of the plug appear different than the OEM plug.
The OEM plug has a longer threaded section so it would project into the cylinder further and the insulator on the new plug appears to have several rubber seals on it. Since he is getting misfires on all cylinders I would think it is plug related especially since the plugs are dimensionaly different, but he even checked the manufacturers website and they say these are a direct replacement. Did they change the plug design or is this a known issue with some cross references?
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2005 prius. the car is pulling three codes misfire cyl1, misfire cyl2, and multiple misfires. The car has over 450000 miles on it and runs like a dream. I just replaced they spark plugs and the coil packs in each cylinder. The cel codes are still there after clearing them. I am willing to replace the fuel injectors but just seems weird that two of them would go out like that together.
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OK. I have a 2005 Passat 1.8t fwd. Tiptronic. 105k
The symptoms i am having is random cylinder misfires on all 4 cylinders. I have scanned with vagcom multiple times and get the same codes. However, I have cleared the codes, and wen fpd a 60 mile drive on the turnpike. Not a single code. So everything is perfect as long as the car dissent have a chance to idle.
I have also driven the car while logging misfires and only get misfires at idle. Never while driving.
So much has been done to the car that is so hard to decide where to start. Ill try to go in order of events.
All this in the past 4 weeks by the way.
Took car to very experienced VW tech. Found out.timing was off by 3 degrees. So new timing belt, water pump and all. Started car, still had misfires. Noticed wetness on head gasket. And did a compression test. Very bad results. (I can't remember the numbers but they were way off from each other) So he removed the head. He said there was a crazy amount of carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. Everything was cleaned, head inspected for bent valves and everything looked perfect after cleaning. (this car has NEVER overheated by the way) He said it is very rare for a head gasket to fail on 1.8t's . So he did a leakdown test and turned out the piston rings were shot. So engine was rebuilt. All components cleaned of carbon, replaced all parts, bearings with new OEM parts. Pickup tube cleaned along with other oil lines. Turbo was inspected, and I was told it is on its way out but still has life. So that was let go for now. All reassembled and all hoses checked, combi valve cleaned, new k&n filter in stock airbox. So he told me the car is finished after all that. I was excited! Drove the car home 15 min drive, ran great. Parked in my driveway, put it in park and misfires came right back. Called him the next day and brought the car back. He looked over it and replaced the fuel pressure regulator with new. He said it seemed like a fuel starvation issue. Tested fuel pump and it was towards the low end of the proper operation value. So I had a high flow pump sitting at home brand new and I brought it down and put it in. Still misfires but a lot less than before. Also fuel filter was replaced. So next he disconnected the cat And found it was clogged. Replaced with my old Audi one, and it ran fine. And this is the first time the car idled good enough to get all the monitors set for emissions testing. So he was convinced it was fixed. Room it for a test drive and came back, parked And began misfiring again. So I was so sick of this thing at this point, I told him to replace the Turbo with brand new OEM unit. And it still misfires.
He swapped a known good throttle body into it and no difference. He also said that he started going around and unplugging sensors and the more sensors he unplugged, the better the car ran. He was curious whether the ECU was faulty. So he put an ECU from his Audi in it which had a ko4 file in it. He said it ran amazing!! So he modified an ECU from a stock Audi and that's what I am driving with now. Still same symptoms. But not as often. Also brand new bosch mass air sensor was installed as well. So this is as far as we have gotten with it and I am so sick of this car right now. But we are both determined to get this thing fixed! And after all the money I have just spent, I can't even get rid of it or I will lose a lot of money. It really sucks because I love the car and so does my wife. And out of the three 1.8t's that I own, I have never had any major issues like this.
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I am getting random misfires on cylinders 4, 5, and 6. Mostly on 6, less on 5, and even less on 4. Cylinders 1-2-3 show ZERO misfires. I am using vag-com to monitor these. Mostly doing it on idle, cruise seems fine but occasionally when shifting I feel it when engaging the next gear. It doesn't buck but I feel a little hesitation. Cruising and accelerating I do not feel it. Its very strange. A couple times during extended idling I have even gotten a flashing CEL. Fuel mileage has been pretty bad ever since I got the car in December. Average tank gets me 250-270.
I tried swapping coils with 123, and the problem stayed on 456. Coils are all new since I got the car. Plugs are fairly new (under 5K) and I pulled a couple to check, they looked fine and gap was about .028. I might try a new set but my gut is telling me the problem is some where else. I would like to verify/test grounds but I don't know where the harness grounds out.
I also want to get a vacuum gauge on the FPR, or check fuel pressure at idle. I replaced one cracked vacuum line, i am thinning there might be others since there seems to be miles of vacuum line on MK4's. Also have a new fuel filter to install, mine appears to be OEM and the car has 97K.
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My girlfriend's MkV Jetta 2.0T is throwing a code for misfires in Cylinders 1 and 2. I've already switched out the plugs and coilpacks with no change. I'm going to try re-positioning the coilpacks to see if the code follows. In doing some research, someone mentioned that it could be fouling on the injectors, which led me to BG44K. She has >215K miles. I figure she's gotta have some fouling that could be cleaned up. I have ~110K miles on my R32 - I figure it wouldn't hurt to do some cleaning in my own car.
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