Camry :: 2007 V6 Front Routers Started Vibrating?
Jan 11, 2012
I've got a 2007 Camry V6. My front rotors were doing great until about 42k miles, when they started vibrating. I knew that it was relatively common, and I replaced them with NAPA OEM parts.
That lasted about 15k, when they started vibrating again.I halfway expected this, and replaced them with high end NAPA parts - ceramic pads, the high end rotor thinking that better parts would equal longer life.
So here I am about 10k or 12k later, and I've got wavy rotors again. I've let it ride for a while, but now I'm tired of it.
Is there a permanent solution for this? A particular brand of pads and rotors? Do I need to replace the whole brake system on both of the front wheels?
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Have a vibrating noise at 70 mph front right of car? Also a squeak when you hit a bump sounds like back inside of car? I know not much to go on....
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My 07 Camry V6 (2GR-FE) tensioner pulley is vibrating under load (in D or R). It gets worse with AC on. I checked all 3 pulleys, all have good bearings, and no play. The belt is in good condition, no cracks at all, still looks new. It's got 75,000 miles
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I have a 2012 SE 4 Cylinder Special Edition and just hit 60,000. Lately, I have been noticing this vibrating/shaking in the front of the car when I'm coasting or accelerating at a slow speed. What it could be? I got my front end alignment done thinking it could be that but it still continued.
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I was jacking up front end the car started to roll back!, I had the parking brake on, so do I like bricks behind the back tires? or do i have to jack the back end up put the jacks under the car, then the front?
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I have 2007 Camry V6 XLE. Over the past year we have had at least 5 incidents of the car not going into gear when first started. This includes reverse when leaving garage and drive when out in parkig areas. Toyota claims they have no records of any other claims for this issue. It even happened at the Toyota lot when we were waiting for service to be done during oil change. All fluid levels have been checked and they were good. They suggested we leave car with them so they could try to get it to do this. This has all happened over the last year. We have about 47K miles on vehicle and purchased new.
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I have a 2007 the front wheel bearing started humming real bad, changed it out. Can't seem to get the right front brake bled good. Did it three times. No air. Today locked up the left wheel upon putting on the brake, the right one ain't working. Is there any thing I can do other than bleed the left front again, check fluid?
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I got a 2007 Camry 2.4 l4 engine under the hood and its didn't start this until we had a garage change the oil never did this when toyota changed it. Mostly when the engine is cold started there is a little bit of a rattling noise it will make until engine is warmed up and once its warmed up at times it will still sound kinda bad when it runs at normal engine temperature but this mostly occurs on cold starts and didn't start doing it until a regular garage changed the oil this never occurred when toyota dealership changed it
I don't know what kind of oil that was used in it last at that oil change but it started that about a week or so after that. Car currently has about 133,000 something miles on it ... Its not that loud of a noise but its noticeable when all doors are closed.
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A week ago my brakes started squealing badly. This past weekend I pulled off the offending tire to take a look and sure enough the squeeler is riding on the rotor so it looks like I need to replace the brakes at 53,000km.
The rotors look good so I plan to only replace the front pads. While I am working on it, I am going to disassemble and preform the TSB on the rears as they have been neglected lately.
What pad material should I go for, metallic or ceramic? Ideally I would like something that has good performance, yet had a good life span. I occasionally pull a 2500lbs (dry weight) braked tent trailer, but that is not very often.
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05 Camry, 2.4L, 47K. Replaced the front brake pads two months ago. I put in Akebono pads and did nothing with the rotors as the original pads were not completely worn out and there is no vibration whatsoever in the pedal.
The pads have recently started making noise on brake application. I'm getting ready to take them back apart and re-lube everything. Should I take some sandpaper to the pads & rotors to knock off any glazing? Do I hit it with a course or fine grit? I have not had this problem happen in the past and was thinking that maybe it is the quality of the pads but I believe these are oem...
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I've been back from a year overseas for a little over a month and have been driving my 2 door R daily since coming back. All of a sudden today, the passenger side window started vibrating like crazy under normal driving. It is very loud and noticeable, but goes away once I crack the window. If I roll it up and crack the driver's side, I get the "helicopter vibration noise" some have noticed when the sunroof is open (I don't have a sunroof, but have noticed this on all my other VWs).
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So, on my way home from checking out a house all of a sudden the truck started vibrating when getting on the highway. Then it got worse quickly. So I pulled off at the next exit and pulled into a parking lot, the truck shuddering badly any time I pressed the fuel pedal. Had it towed to my local Ford dealer. I'm thinking torque converter/transmission, but I freely admit I don't know. Here's what I think is pertinent info-
1. I bought it at 84k miles, now 122k. Oil changed every 5k, fuel filters every 10k, coolant every 20k, trans fluid every 20k. Don't kmow what was done first 84k miles before I bought it.
2. Driveshaft rebuilt one year ago. Both fr and rr diff fluids changed a few months ago, along with transfer case fluid.
3. When in park or neutral engine revs perfectly smooth. When placed in gear and fuel is added it starts to shudder, getting worse as revs go up. Does not vary with road speed, only with engine speed and load into transmission.
4. There are no codes at all. All temps were normal. Engine oil and trans fluid level normal.
5. A few months ago when coming home from a trip I suddenly had the same symptoms about 3 miles from home, but not as bad as today. Made it home taking it easy and went to bed. I was exhausted from a long day of driving and when I test drove the truck the next morning to check it out it was smooth as could be, so I thought maybe I imagined it. Symptoms did not reappear until today, a few months and several thousand miles later.
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I got a braking issue today and I'm not able to drive my car anymore. I have a 2010 Prius with a continuous beeping sound, ABS and warning lights ON. I can hear a small sound (pulsing, cranking, vibrating) in the engine compartment after the hybrid system is started. I guess this is the actuator.
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I've got an issue with my truck, I was towing home my camper this weekend and my engine started missing out and vibrating very bad, then it overheated... pulled over and check codes, p0263, p0299, p0300, p0301. Oil all over engine, tons of blow by, definitely a dead miss on cylinder 1. Smokes bad out of exhaust, zero power, and blows cap off of oil filler when loose, tons of smoke and oil from ccv.
My question is, could it be in the valve train? Or is it going to lie in the piston/rings? Blown head gasket? It did overheat, but didn't puke out of bottle, turbo timer kept it running for a bit after I shut it down roadside, egts were definitely high. Also the egr is deleted, have a predator programmer with custom tune for she delete.
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So 2 weeks ago I noticed that after 30 minutes of driving on the highway my steering wheel started making a loud growling noise and vibrating really hard! When I hit the brakes it got worse but got better as I slowed to 30 mph. It doesn't happen all the time and not right away, only after a while of driving and the dealership says without codes they can do nothing...
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Well, I last summer my fuel filter/ pump started squealing, and making vibrating noise, replaced the fuel filter changed the noise slightly, some times it would go away, sometimes the line going to the filter under the hood would vibrate, couple weeks ago truck warning light came on- "low fuel pressure warning" came on, hum... went out, came on a couple days later, then finally put me into limp mode, luckly only 1/2 mile from home... checked filter on frame/ tightness, it was tight, the pump on the filter housing was very noisey still, well, I figured 200 dollars cheaper than taking to ford....
I waited and pump arrived 3 days later, replaced it and low pressure warning still on, but pump was very quiet, and when I restarted low pressure warning and reduced power came on in driveway, hum.... I thought code was still in computer, I disconnected battery and turned headlights on to try and kill the code, started it and now the engine light came on, nothing else, and truck ran fine....hum.... went to autozone, and they pulled the code, low fuel rail pressure, p0087, guy said to drive and code should go off, truck runs fine. Drove truck a couple days and engine light went off, Truck runs great.......All is good.
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I have a 2007 F150 STX 2 wheel drive that vibrates between 43 and 54 MPH only. Very consistent and it doesn't happen every time, but I'd say above 90 percent of the time. Now I'm getting the run around with mechanics about what the problem is. I can see the bed of my truck vibrating and I can hear it, sounds like I'm driving over rumble strips.
I had the transmission, transmission cooler, a coil pack, intake manifold, and throttle body replaced by the Ford house in January of last year. The shaking began a few months after the replacement. I had the tires rotated. No change. I had the tires replaced, no change. A few months ago the front left wheel bearings and both lower ball joints were replaced. No change. It has not gotten any worse or better, and every mechanic I have talked to has claimed something different but it's all theory because they can't figure out what it is, they just want to start replacing things without being sure.
I've heard:
-Center driveshaft carrier bearing
-Torque converter shudder
-Bad suspension
Turning off overdrive makes no difference.
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I have a 2012 camry se i4 (29k miles). So, when i shift to R the car start vibrates, i can feel it when i hold the steering wheel. Also, something at the stop sign or red light, i can feel the car vibrates. I live in MN, the weather is really cold and a lot of snow now. Is that why?
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I'm trying to find why my car's steering wheel vibrates. This happens at all speeds regardless or acceleration or breaking.
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When sitting around in Drive at idle, my 2013 Camry is vibrating VERY noticeably at idle when the A/C is running. Turn the A/C off and idle goes back to normal.
I don't seem to remember this last summer - is this pretty normal for the I4 models? It seems to happen when the engine is at low RPM in gear and goes away if I blip the throttle or put the car into Neutral or Park. Even more shaky in reverse.
I usually run 87 octane, but have tried a tank of 89 and 93 with much the same result, but a little more power from a stop in hot weather. This feels very unusual for a 2013 car - my old 2002 Nissan didn't seem to even notice that the A/C was on.
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130k miles, 4 cyl camry LE 2006, im very good about my oil changes
The car gets a good amount of vibration while it idles, you can sort of notice it with the dashboard vibrating, I've known it was happening but didn't seem terrible so I hadn't put much thought into it. It also goes away when i get moving, but will sometimes get worse again at stop lights.
Today I was jumping a friends car (2009 mercury mariner), having both hoods open at the same time made the amount my engine was vibrating pretty noticeable compared to hers. Totally different cars, i know, but still seemed like it was a bit much.
My question is what areas should i be looking into as the possible culprit? What could possibly cause an engine to have more vibration as it ages? Just to clarify, it doesn't seem super intense, like about to tear itself off the frame, but just enough so that you would notice it.
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