Camry :: 2007 - Transmission Not Engaging To D
Nov 17, 2013
I have aproblem with my 2007 Camry 2.4 SE automatic tranny at 88000 miles. I parked my car as usual,got back after 2 hours started the car normally pressed the brake pedal to engage D and....nothing happens. The lever moves freely from R to L but the light on the instrument cluster stays at P and the car won't budge!!!!! What could be the cause.
The tranny showed no signs of failure before,excpt a slight vibration while in Drive. What I should go checking before towing the car to dealer.Any fuses relays etc.?I mounted a back up camera lately and had to slice back-up wires in the trunk to do that ,could this be related?
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2009 Camry SE 2.4L. I have been noting an unfamiliar vibration of sorts in my gas pedal for some time, but did not notice smells, overheats, noises, fluid loss, DTCs or anything. Today on my way to work I started to notice hard shifting. The RPMs would rev up, fall down and shift hard. At time the RPMs would climb to 5k before dropping back down then shifting. Got worse, then finally when I was trying to U turn across the road (was stopped in gear) I lost all gears. I could shift to any gear, engine RPMS would remain stable, but no movement. Pressing on the gas just hiked the revs.
I pushed it off the road, and killed the engine and could get it to engage for short periods then no gears again. Seems like if I let it sit for a bit it will work for a short while, then no gears again. Had it towed home. Trans fluid indicates full, no burnt coloring or smell to it. No indications of leaks. After the tow I was able to drive it up into my driveway.
For clarity, I can move the selector to any gear and that feels normal. The engine does not bog down. I simply am not engaging any gear. Thinking sensor? Maybe heat related?
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I recently bought 2007 ES 350 drove @700+ miles, 2 times I had this incident in this week, the latest is today. In cold morning when I try to drive the vehicle when it is cold when I pull the lever to drive mode the accelerator increases the RPM but the car is not rolling or I should say very very snail pace, so I tried pushing the lever back to park, then reverse drive the vehicle and then engage to drive mode it works fine but I hear lot of fan sound. For initial few min I feel that it is not picking up much speed but then it becomes normal. It really tensed me. What action can be taken to resolve this?
As per the Autocheck report this was manufactured in Jun 2006 and the vehicle service records from Lexus web there is no sign of any transmission problem or fix to transmission. The car has 100K+ miles on it.
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So, we bought this camry about a year and a half ago and it has slowly developed what I believe to be a transmission slip. It seems to happen more often when the car is cold (prior to warming up to operating temperature). The transmission only shifts between (i think) 1-2 gear. Could be 3-4 but, it's kinda hard to tell.
Anyhow, it doesn't keep us from driving the car but I fear it will eventually make the car un-driveable.
We have a used car warranty but under the automatic trans. section it appears to only cover hard parts and not things like bands or other friction materials.
is this a known issue for this transmission? and if so, what typically causes this kind of slipping?
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I need identifying parts or the problem to fix this leak! I see oil underneath my car coming from the transmission. Someone told me I need to replace the seal but don't know where to start. Transmission slips when it was low on oil but once I topped it off again it ran way smoother. Bought the oil from the dealership but can't afford to get it replaced there.
I want to repair this problem before it get worst. I have 200k mileages and never any tranny problem until now.
[URL] .....
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In today's show, a caller with a Ferrari noted that sometimes the transmission would crunch when engaging reverse. I've never had the pleasure of driving a Ferrari, but two Porsches I owned (in my single days) had similar issues. There is no synchro for reverse gear.(Ferarri may be the same) So if I idled in neutral to get the gears moving and then shifted to reverse quickly, the gears would crunch as they meshed. A little drag from the clutch not disengaging completely or the pilot bearing dragging would make it worse. Two solutions are
1)let the transmission coast down by holding the clutch in for a few seconds before engaging reverse, or
2) shift to second, then straight to reverse.
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I have a 2007 Camry LE with 86K miles. The car was burning oil like crazy and failed the oil consumption test so Toyota put a new motor in the car. I picked it up from the dealer 2 weeks ago and after driving it 40 miles, the transmission went out. The dealership had it towed that day and now after 2 weeks of them not returning my calls or providing any update, they tell me that it was coincidence that my transmission failed 1 hour after I picked it up from them. What are the chances that it had nothing to do with the work they've done?
When I brought it in it was driving fine - the only problem was the oil consumption, no slipping or knocking. Now you can drive it for 20 minutes just fine, but as soon as it warms up, the transmission quits.
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My 2007 V6 failed me several times on very cold mornings. I start the car, wait about 1 minute and then drove it to a stop sign or red light (still cold). When the light turned green, I tried to proceed, but it was as if the car was in neutral. The car would not move. It was only after about 2-3 minutes, when the car started to warm up that I was able to get a gear. After 5-7 minutes, it was as if nothing happened. I have 97K on the car.
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My wife drives an 07 camry; 4 cyl/auto. the transmission has a dipstick so I can check it, and I can see it is discolored. the car has 76kmi on it. she just drives it back and forth to work; no abuse, no start/stop, just highway and 45mph roads.
I am going to change the trans oil. I see on the dipstick it take Toyota WS fluid. I'll buy it at the dealer to be safe.
do I *really* need to drop the pan and change the filter? I have a fluid evacuater, and could suck it right out the dipstick, or I can pull the pan plug.
Is the dealer going to sell me a filter and pan gasket? I have read that many dealers wont even sell me the parts.
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I have a 2007 Camry V6 XLE with a rebuilt transmission. Since the rebuild I have had an intermittent problem with the transmission not shifting into gear properly from park. When shifting from park into drive, sometimes the transmission will pause, leaving the vehicle in neutral, then slamming into drive.
The transmission was replaced in April of 09 with a leaking transmission seal. Since this time I have has this problem but have not been able to get it to be reproduced for Toyota to observe.
Purchased: February '08 (ish)- New
First Transmission Replacement- April '09- 35980 Miles
Transmission Repair- Internal Temp Sensor/leaking o-ring/Transmission Flush- 9/13/11- 101k miles
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I own a 2007 Toyota Camry XLE with about 95,000 miles and I was wondering if changing the transmission fluid is ever necessary. The maintenance guide, which shows required maintenance for every 5,000 miles through 120,000 miles, never mentions the need to change it (unless I'm doing towing, which I'm not). However, I found some articles on the web which suggest that it should be changed every 50,000 miles.
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I currently have a 07 camry v6 with u660e transmission. Going to drain and refill of transmission fluid? How many quarts do i need for drain and refill? It seems it doesn't have a transmission dipstick.
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My transmission had no slipping was running fine . Oil level was ok , recently added 1/2 quart , cause it has some small leaks. I go to drive away other day and none of the drive gears or reverse would engage. Mechanic thinks transmission locked up . Kind of hard to condemn my old baby considering it was running fine .
Would the TCC solenoid do this or the ECU ? I recently reinstalled the bar going to starter that was disconnected for 5+ years because i was having slow crank issues. This transmission problem occurred 2 days later. I am thinking it might have made the ECU unit go bad , since the starter had not a good ground for so long ?
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2004 Dodge Stratus 80K... What happened is my check engine light came on maybe 6 months ago and I took it to have it looked at and they were closing but the guy told me don't worry about it and I be ok until I come back and it probably wasn't a big deal. The light went off a day or two so I didn't worry about it. It came on about a week ago and I haven't had time to take it in yet. So here is the chain of events-
Check engine light (6 months ago approx)Check engine light off (couple days later)
Check engine light (1-2 weeks ago)
Put my car in drive, transmission didn't engage right away. I thought I had it in neutral by mistake. then it engaged.(about a week ago)
Same thing happened last night except it took longer for it to kick in and when I ran into the store and came out, it backed up ok but wouldn't go in drive right away. I thought it was because it was freezing) out and maybe needed to warm up better. (we had a terrible ice storm here in Washington).
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I need to decide what to do with my transmission. I just acquired a 2007 F150 Supercrew 2WD 4.6L truck with 184k miles. While in Drive the automatic transmission (4R75E) runs ok thru 2nd gear and then; if O/D is on it will rev without engaging and if O/D is off it will just stay in 2nd gear.
I was hoping the problem was a broken retainer clip, as are so many others. So I removed the pan, and the valve body. All of the retainer clips seem to be fine, but, there is a lot of metal sludge on the magnet of the pan. See pic.
Should I buy a complete rebuild kit and take the tranny out of the truck? Is it just a problem with the valve body? I need to get the truck going so I can get to work. I am uneducated in the transmission department.
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I just installed a rebuild 4R100 transmission in my 2001 4x4 Excursion with the 7.3. I'm having trouble getting it to engage into gear. As I shift it into gear it sounds as if it wants to engage but doesn't. I have checked the fluid level and it at a normal range. I'm wondering if I didn't put enough fluid in the converter would that cause the problem.
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I've got a 1982 Courier 2.0 2wd 5speed pickup and it's been passed down through my family and has sat for quite a while so I started tinkering with it in my spare time.
I began with the motor and got it to run after 15 years of sitting around but am having issues with the transmission. When I first got it running a while back i had it in gear and when I let out on the clutch it lunged forward a little and stalled. I have since then towed it a short distance across my yard (in neutral of course), but now it seems like it isn't doing anything while it's in gear.
While its running I can put it in gear (even without the clutch) it doesn't grind jump or anything. Everything feels like it's okay as in going into all the gears. I was wondering if this is possibly clutch related or if it's the trans itself. Or maybe some electrical thing related. I haven't taken anything apart yet in hopes that it's something simple. I was curious if it might be low on fluid and maybe that would cause it not to engage properly?
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My '05 F150 (92,000 mi) 4 wheel seems like it is engaging and disengaging when activated. Makes a clunking sound on light acceleration then quits when I back off the gas. Not sure if it is engaged then or not. I noticed this on a gravel road when I had turned 4x4 on to distribute oil around the system since I had not used it in a while. What it might be and if it is any easy fix or a trip to the shop.
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I notice on cold days my transmission hesitates to shift and holds 2nd - 3rd for a long time before finally shifting. Once the car warms , all is fine. Will and what could the dealer do for this? I would like it looked after before my warranty runs out.
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Going to replace motor mounts. Foot on brake and placed in gear engine flexes back about 2". Doesn't seem to flex side to side or forward. Replaced dog bone the metal in the middle of the bushing had a visible crack. Still flexes. I am confused about replacing them. Should I replace all including the 2 rear mounts? This is what I have read in many posts and been told by a trans shop. Can I just replace the front and dog bone? Parts guy told me that was all that I needed to do if it wasn't flexing side to side. These things are expensive 170- ea for oems so if I don't have to replace the rear I won't. However I don't want to trash the new ones cause I didn't replace them all.
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I have a 2002 camry xle 115 k miles, lately I started to feel the abs engaging at low speeds dry street, tires are good and new front rotors and pads, no dash warning lights. I looked at the front speed sensors and cleaned it still doing that...
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