Camry :: 2007 - TPMS Light Began To Blink Then It Will Go Steady And Stay Illuminated
Dec 22, 2013
I have had my 07 now for a few months. The other day during a trip, I noticed my TPMS light began to blink, and then stayed constantly on. I checked my pressures at the end of the day and they were all right where they should be, including the spare. When I start the car, the TPMS light will blink for some time, and then it will go steady and stay illuminated.
Took the car to a tire shop and they hooked the tpms scan tool up to the car and told me I had a bad sensor. I did some reading online today and it seems like a lot of people say the sensors that come from the factory for these cars only last for about 5 years until the internal battery dies.
For what it costs to get one sensor replaced, knowing that the car is 5 years old and the other 3 sensors are prone to fail, I see some people are making little PVC canisters and putting all 4 sensors in the canister and pressurizing it to make the light go away. But my sensors are broke, and if I bought new ones I do not have a tool to program them.
Is there anything that can be unplugged, or a wire that can be cut or grounded to make this stupid, pointless light go away or am I pretty much at the mercy of the tire shop/dealer to replace the sensor and make the light go away?
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I have a 2009 Camry LE and I just got oem 2010 SE wheels for it. Upon start up, the TPMS light flashes for a minute then goes steady and stays on.
I know there is a reset switch in the glovebox but would that fix it? I went from 16" steel wheels w/ hubcaps to 17" oem SE wheels.
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My wife has a 2003 Pontiac Grand am GT 3.4L V6. A few days ago my wife was out and tried to start the car and the service engine light came on and began to blink. (Prior to this the car was running well with no service engine light) The car was running very rough at this point so we shut the car off and I pulled the codes at witch four codes came up witch were: P0205, p0206, p0300, p0443. So I had the car towed to the shop and they said that they thought that it was the oxygen sensor but after that had been replaced they had concluded that the oxygen sensor was not the problem so they had placed the old one back in. Then they said that they restarted the car and it was running fine but then pulled it out of the shop and began to run rough again.
At this point they were thinking that there was a short so they checked the wiring from the ecm (?) back to the oxygen sensor and could not find any problems. And needless to say they started the car and it began to run fine again so they told me to come and pick it up and drive it for the weekend just to see if it was a lose connection that was possibly there. So needless to say once I picked it up the service engine light was still on but the engine sounded good so I figured I would drive the car home and maybe the light would shut off. Well upon taking off and getting a few miles down the road the engine started to idol at 2000 rmp when in park or neutral.
So I stopped and pulled the code and got P0443 again so while I had the scan tool connected I cleared the codes to see if the light would come back on with the same code or with multiple again. The service engine light stayed off. So the high idol continued for a few miles I also did try to restart the car and the problem did persist. About 5 more miles down the road the car started to overheat and the reservoir had overheated. So at this point the engine sounds good it is not running rough but is really high idol. The check engine light did not come on since I cleared the codes in that short drive but I do not want to drive it because of the overheating. I do know that the coolant level was good when we started the car.
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Wifes car began to idle very rough and check engine light began to blink and beep, I took it to the mechanic today and he informed me that my control module was no good and it was a $400 dollar piece. I said go ahead get it done, cuz she needs the car and i couldn't afford to not have it done immediately. Question I have is does this small-ass piece really go for that much on average and what control module is it?
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Today I got the engine light blink a couple of times and then steady on. Parked the car, waited a few minutes, start again just the engine light on (not blinking anymore).
I scanned the car and got this
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Tuesday, 06 August 2013, 13:48:09:11637
Chassis Type: 3D - B5 VW Phaeton
Scan: 01,02,03,05,06,07,08,09,11,15,16,17,18,19,23,27,34 ,35,36,37,38,42,46,48,49,52,55,56,57,61,62,65,68,6 9,72,76,77
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Controller: 07C 906 018 C
[Code] .....
I have a hard time believing that all coil packs went bad. My wife told me that when she was driving the car she could hear a clicking noise coming from the trunk so I think this could the fuel pump not giving enough fuel but I was hoping to get an error for it.
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I had a Check Engine Light a couple months ago, and I took the car to the garage to have it checked out. They told me they got a Fuel Pressure Sensor malfunction code, and that the sensor had to be replaced. I did so myself, an it is ridiculously easy, and the car worked fine. I noticed the Check Engine Light blinked a couple of times while I was driving, but never got steady. A couple of days ago, it did. Out of a bad gut-feeling, I purchased a ODBII scanner, and I scanned the car myself. I got the same error code as the garage did, but the sensor should be fine.
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I had new tires put on last week. Two days after the TPMS light came on steady. All tires including the spare had 32 psi in them. That's what is listed on the door sill. I added a little more to 35 psi. Same result. I finally bumped it up to 40 psi. 4 shy of the max. It's been 2 days and no change. Since it's was a couple of days after the change is this a coincidence or is there some reset. I hate to disable it since its my wife's car. Also checked the switch under the dash.
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I did the blue wire cut-mod 20 minutes ago. I had a consistent blinking TPMS light. I cut the correct, blue, wire and grounded to a stud behind the kick panel. The light is now steadily lit. Was I supposed to disconnect the battery first?
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The issue is: when I start the Prius, the TPMS light blinks for about a minute before remaining steady. I have tried to reset the TPMS via the button below the steering wheel (knee-or-so height), but have not been successful (tried with the ignition in "ON" status, tried with "ACC", and as last resort tried in "READY")
My question is the following: Since I do not know all the history of the vehicle, how can i tell if its a sensor, the button, or something in the TPMS or ECU that's at fault? When I picked it up, all of the tires were a little flat (about 25 PSI).
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So I took my Elantra through the car wash tonight - came out fine. Went to the grocery store - no problem. Came out of the grocery store are the TMPS light blinked for a minute, and stayed illuminated. I carry a tire pressure gauge so I checked manually- all tested fine. How do I reset?
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Today I drove about 250 miles, round trip. About 75 miles from home, my TPMS warning light started flashing, then came on steady. I also received the Blue Link message about problems with the TPMS system. We pulled off the interstate at the next service station (about 3 miles) and checked all of the tires. All 4 read exactly 33 psi.
Restarted the car and continued on. After about a mile, the light turned off. About 10 miles later, the light started flashing again. It flashed for about 2 minutes then shut off again. We continued home without seeing anything more from the light.
The only thing at all out of the ordinary, is that the temperature has changed from a high of 35F earlier in the week to 70F today. There is a lot of moisture on the ground. Is it possible condensation may have affected a sensor? I have a 2013 GLS with 2800 miles on it.
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2012 Elantra GLS. Wife comes home and says the TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) light on the dash is lit. I check the tire pressure. None abnormally low but I decide to top them off. Notice that two of the valve stem caps are broken. The tips are broken off so I can see the little red gasket. On opposite sides of the car. No damage to the wheel covers. The valve stems don't stick out past the wheel covers so I wonder how the caps could have gotten broken. Could that be why the TPS system is giving me a warning? If by chance there was a pressure issue does the light reset itself or does the dealer have to do it?
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A customer brought in their 07 Camry XLE with a flashing low tire light. I retrieved two codes, one for sensor 1 and one for sensor 2. Tire pressures normal.
Codes are
DTC C2121/21 No Signal from Transmitter ID1 in Main Mode
DTC C2122/22 No Signal from Transmitter ID2 in Main Mode
The other things I noticed were that the two bad sensors were showing a temp of -40F while the two good sensors were within 5 degrees of actual ambient temp. Another fault was that the battery in #4 was low. I ordered 2 new sensors from Toyota and after writing down their code, I swapped them out. I had already written down the codes for the other 2 sensors. Going into the data, now sensor #4 is reading -40F too and the battery says OVER.
The only good one is on the left front. I cannot believe that I had two bad sensors this morning and another failed this afternoon. I've been wrenching long enough to know that these things are rare. The customer made the appointment yesterday and dropped off the car last night. She called right when the light came on and only drove it about 30 miles from then to when she dropped it off. Before I left, I ordered two more sensors. BTW, the tires look relatively new, but we did not put them on. The two sensors I removed looked fine.
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What are the common misfire problems with the mk4 R32? My R is acting funny every once in a while it runs perfect then some other times it seems to big and the check engine light starts to blink but doesn't stay on I ran for codes and it said I had a miss fire but after that the code never came up again but it still blinks.
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So I was driving my 2001 1.8t last night and put the pedal to the floor to make a yellow light and the check engine light began to blink and the engine started running very rough ever since. It idles very rough and it seems like I have lost a lot of the power.
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Engine stops lights stay on will not start back up for close to 10 min.then runs fine for 2 or 3 miles then repeats...
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I have a 2007 Camry with the 4 cylinder engine and about 90,000 miles. I just changed the oil and took it for a test drive only to notice about 1/4 mile down the road it was running very hot. My a/c began to get warmer and my temperature gauge was at the "H". I pulled over and it immediately cooled back to normal operating temperature (in the middle of the gauge). The car was left running this entire time and I began my way back to my destination. It never ran that hot again but when I would slow down to an idle I noticed at times it would go up in temperature, but not as hot as before, and go back to normal temperatures. Sometimes during a drive it would fluctuate a little bit, but nothing as much as it would on the very start of running this car cold.
So I opened my hood and looked at the reservoir and noticed I do not see any fluid in there. I guess I should add that I have never flushed or changed the antifreeze b/c I did not know I would need to change it until recently at the 5 year mark. I also notice a little but a pink crystals (about the size of a pencil head) on a bolt at the top left of the engine, right under were the oil cap is. But that is all I noticed. No leak in my driveway or other areas of the engine. I must note that I did the oil change myself and it was nice and black, so from my experience it does not appear to be a head gasket, b/c I would assume it would be milky in color if that was the case.
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Model 2007 Toyota Camry 4cyl
Milage 121K
Service preformed by me @ 119K:
- changed sparkplugs (toyota part)
- changed drivebelt (toyota part)
- changed new battery (Costco battery)
- changed engine air filter(toyota part)
- Oil change every 5K
- Trans flush (toyota part: Type WS fluid: 16 Qts)
- Transflush also preformed at 60K
Problem: So beginning of this week I was driving on the HWY and as most of us like to overtake while driving, so I stepped on the gas pedal hard. The vehicle downshifted to lower gear and RPM got up to 5 to 6K for 3 seconds then suddenly vehicle slowed down. When this happened it was like hitting a brick wall. I don't know if the engine braked so hard or transmission did. I never had this happen to me.
No transmission noise or engine noise. Car at the moment runs fine. The problem is that now every time I step on the gas from steady cruise, RPM will rise up to 4K or so and I do feel that vehicle down shifts but RPM will drop down to 2K and slow climb as vehicle picks up speed. So during this time I can floor the gas pedal but very very little response of the engine. Its like something is holding the vehicle back.
So I went to autostore to see if I have any pending codes as no check engine light or abs...
One pending code came up: C1241 (Low Battery Positive Voltage)
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Flashing TPMS for 1 minute, then steady = TPMS malfunction. The problem seems to be that the TPMS controller somehow resets itself wrong at some random point and begins looking for 5.5 bar (~88psi) instead of 2.6 bar (~37psi).
Here's the instructions for the fix:
I went into the adaptation I found in the Ross Tech wiki here : [URL] ....
All I did was enter the security access code (01503) then changed the values for each channel to 2.6 which equates to about 38psi. Once all of them were set to 2.6 bar, I saved and exited. Started the car and now I no longer have the TPMS error.
YES, the security code works for the 2010 GTI.
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2012 Camry SE I4, non-entune, no roof, Kentucky built in spring '12.
Tonight on the way home, driving in light traffic, roughly 45-50mph seatbelt light came on and began to chime. I was wearing my seatbelt at the time, and had nothing in the passenger seat. When approaching a stoplight, the light went out and the chime stopped upon braking. I am going to take it in tomorrow to have it checked, but am assuming the dealer will find nothing. I looked under the dr. seat and there wasn't anything that could have pulled on the wiring.
So again, briefly:
During light traffic with seat belt buckled properly, seat belt light illuminates and chime starts. Upon braking for stop light the seatbelt light went out and chime stopped.
This is kind of a big deal to me because this is my wife's primary vehicle and the airbag will not work with the seatbelt light illuminated.
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I just recent bought a 2012 Toyota Camry LE and it seems to have had fog lights installed (not stock ,as far as my research has proven) and the LED on the switch is green and never shuts itself off. I'm not sure if this is normal. I have a decent mechanical background and never see anything other than security lights on when the key if off and out of the ignition. Seems like it may be a little wrong wiring. I checked the DIY OEM install of the fog lamps, but nothing there stood out to me as a cause for the light to remain on.
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