Camry :: 2007 TCH Smart Key Is Not Detected
Jun 30, 2012
Today I locked my Camry by pressing the button on the outside door handle and it worked perfectly. About an hour later, I tried opening the door and it wouldn't unlock. I took my door key out of the smart key fob and unlocked the doors manually. I then tried to start the car and got the message "Key Is Not Detected". I held the smart key infront of the push button start and waited for it to beep, then started the car. The message center displayed "Key Is Not Detected" the entire time I was driving.
I figured that the battery was dead in the smart key, so I stopped by Radio Shack and bought a new battery, replaced it, and tried to use it to unlock and start the car. Same thing happened again. I drove home, once again, with the message "Key Is Not Detected" the whole way home. When I got home, I went inside and got my second smart key. I tried to use it on the car, and the exact same thing happened. I have done research, and I haven't been able to find any answers as to what could be causing this issue. I can't even lock or unlock the car by pressing the buttons on either of the smart key remotes. It's a 2007 Camry Hybrid with every option available and 114,000 miles on it.
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Took my Camry into the dealership for some preemptive work. Mechanic located a small oil leak under the car. Went through several iterations of cleaning/driving it for a few days to see if the issue would reoccur, unfortunately it seems to been a consistent leak (small).
The mechanic was unable to fully pinpoint where the leak is coming from (something about the oil riding down the power steering line down). We started off with two potential locations:
washers around/near the VVTI line, the housing on the engine. I've been wanting the metal VVTI line for a while, so I went ahead and replaced it. Unfortunately, the leak continued.
I was advised that in order to work on the housing on the engine (describe as possible bad seal) they would have to remove the power steering and the engine. Estimate to be 15-20 hours. They would remove the housing and reapply the seal.
Would like to reach out to the members of TN for advice. As of right now, the leak is very small and there has been no noticeable oil accumulation on the drive way. Still, this issue is somewhat annoying.
I've attached a pic, there's a very small drip of oil. It's located on mid/passenger side of the bottom bay.
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I have a 2007 Camry V6 with 49K miles. Yesterday the Check VSC System lite came on along with the check engine light and picture of a car with tracks behind it. The car runs perfect. The engine is smooth, no misses, and no other signs of any kind of problems. My wife drives this car about 6K miles a year. Took it to AutoZone this morning to check the codes. The first thing that came up was Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator. Then codes P0301,02,03,04,05,06 each saying Misfire Detected. Also code P0352 Ignition Coil B Primary / Secondary Circuit.
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My 2012 Camry SE V6 has the smart key system and push button start. When I start the car, how can I lock it from the outside with the smart key on my person, to let it warm up? Or is the only option to use the manual lock/unlock buttons on the armrest to lock it and then close the door?
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I have a 2007 Prius 2, the key will not open the doors, so I went to the store replaced the remote battery but it is still not working. The light on the remote lights up as usual. I can get in using the small metal key, the car starts and everything seem to be working fine with the smart key plugged in. The 12v battery seems to be fine as all the lights work when the car is off. What this might be?
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I contacted the factory and also a couple dealers. Officially, Toyota only offers the FOB and a valet key for the 2015 Camry LE w/o Smart Key. But I want a small, relatively inexpensive, water resistant, transponder key that looks like the valet key, but also opens the glove box.
My understanding is that the 2015 Camry and the 2013-2014 Rav4 both use the new "H" transponder keys.
are all Toyota "H" key blanks (ones w/o buttons at least) interchangeable?
Specifically, would the OEM "89785-0D170" "H" transponder key which I found online for the 2014 Rav4 work for the 2015 Camry too?
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I just bought a 2012 toyota camry se with smart key. The trunk button on the remote opens the trunk, but the smart key button on the trunk lid does not open the trunk. I found a brown module unplugged the the left of the seat release handles in the trunk, I checked the wiring to the switch on the trunk lid.
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My "Smart Master Key (type C)" falls apart too easily. I had the smart key together with my house keys, and so far I had to put it together twice. The last time all the little keys and one of the plastic cover fell down as I pulled it the key from its place on the steering wheel.
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I had my car serviced a few weeks ago and realized that one of my Smart Keys (the one I was using when I drove to the dealership) no longer works with the car. It won't unlock the doors or start the car (neither wirelessly nor when plugged in to the dash). The other fob works fine. Are there any scenarios where a Smart Key fob gets rejected from the system?
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How do I turn off the maintenance required light on my 2011 XLE with a smart key? It does not use a regular key.
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How do you unlock a 2007 avalon limited with both smart keys in locked in the car? My wife put both of our keys in her purse in the car then one of our grandkids hit the lock button on the outside of the handle.
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Smart key not smart anymore, it won't start the car unless I inserted the remote unit to the key slot underneath the steering column.
Smart key works with doors, trunk.
1. checked the Smart Function is On (KEY button not depressed)
2. Change new 3V battery inside the remote
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I have been having a problem where my 2012 XLE will not start. I can get into the car. I can press the start button and all the dash lights will turn on but yet it will not let me press on brake to start the car. It is almost like the theft deterrent system will not turn off. It is not happening all the time but has happened quite a few times.
This last time it happened, it was far from home on vacation late at night. In the end I am still not sure how I was finally able to get the car to start. Also, another thing that has happened is that I will be DRIVING down the road and it will say the key is not detected.
I have taken it to Toyota service center and they cannot find the issue. They say the only way they would be able to find the issue is if they can duplicate it.
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We just got our 2012 Camry XLE about 1 month ago. Today, the smart key push start didn't work; the brake pedal seemed like it was seized, but the green (key) light did manage to come on, indicating it knew the key was there. When I pressed the start, all of the dash lights were flickering, but the car wouldn't start. Was towed to the dealer, who ran a diagnostic that indicated the battery had failed (the options for the diagnostic are pass, charge, and fail). They installed a new battery and it seems fine.
One of the doors wasn't completely closed overnight - would this have caused the battery to be done? I could see if it caused the battery to drain, requiring a boost / charge.
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My wife's 08 Camry the other day the gauges all went crazy and the a/c stopped working. But then the problem goes away its intermittent issue.
I took it to the shop they said the ABS control module is bad.
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I heard a humming (motor) sound coming from my trunk area today. Car was off since previous evening. Sounded like maybe electric fuel pump? It stopped when I pressed smart key button and is not doing it now, but......
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I tested my new VCDS today a HEX-USB+CAN. I got CAN: Not Ready. But that's impossible.
My guess is that the OBD2 interface I got is faulty.
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My fob works fine to start the car, but then randomly while driving the car loses "sight" of the fob and an annoying flashing warning triangle appears along with "Key not detected". It did this right after I took CPO delivery (new fob batteries), but I replaced the fob batteries twice more (using 2 different sources and brands) and it still does the same thing. I think it is the smart key module in the car that is flaking out, because it does the same thing with both fobs and 3 different new fob batteries. On occasion it will tell me to touch the fob to the start button to be able to start the car.
So I now have 3 issues to fix, the peeling trim around the nav unit, the smart key issue, and poorly-balanced tires. Otherwise, everything is excellent.
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My mother-in-law has a Camry and she is pulling codes for running lean and airflow leak detected. The little red circled device mounted on the side of the air intake boot is hissing out air, yet I don't even know what the thing is called....
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2003 Camry LE, 4 cyl, 165k miles – Got all of the above codes. Obviously checked gas cap and no issues there. Checked both VSV underhood and had clicking. Checked VSV at canister under vehicle and no clicking. Used a Dremel oscillating tool with flat metal blade to cut off rusted Philips head screw. Removed VSV and checked by jumpering to battery. No clicking, but did draw a tiny arc. That told me it was “trying” to actuate. Sprayed PB Blaster into hose fittings of VSV and mowed the lawn. Came back to VSV and it now actuated – but very slowly and delayed. Sprayed electrical contact cleaner in hose fittings with the VSV jumpered and open. Activated VSV several times and sprayed contact cleaner through the hose fittings several times – both directions. VSV began to active quickly. Put VSV back on vehicle. SES light went out by itself after it ran the EVAP test.
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I bought a gorgeous red 4.0L V-6 Mustang very cheap last week because it needed a clutch. I would not even pull the car. Little did I know that the clutch kit, including the slave cylinder and flywheel, was over $600. (But that's another story.)
The car runs now, but will not go over 3800 RPM in any gear. It had NINE codes, which they cleared. I was told that they primarily pointed to the MAF sensor. I cleaned it with the recommended aerosol. I have driven it 20 miles, and the MIL has not returned, but the little wrench symbol has. The Manual says to take it to the dealer (of course). The car seems to run fairly well, with the exception of the low rev limit. It is a "fly by wire" set up, with electronic throttle.
The cleared codes were P0102, P0113, P0135, P0141, P0155, P0161, P0403, P0443, and P0446. They actually repeated on Autozone's scanner. (My six year old Actron won't link to this car for some reason.
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