Camry :: 2007 - Strut Keep Going Bad And Replaced
Jan 2, 2012
I have a 2007 Camry with Eibach Springs with the stock struts. When I bought the car in '06 the front driver side strut was bad and replaced. This was before the springs. Recently, the other front strut went bad and was replaced. I am no longer a fan of Toyota's suspension parts for this car. In the near future I'd like to replace all four.
Any recommendations on good replacement struts that will work with the Eibach springs. A firmer ride is fine, as long as it is still comfortable. Quietness and durability (long life) are of concern as well.
I only plan on keeping the car a few more years so coilovers and similar products aren't option or worth spending that much money.
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I have a rear rattle that I cant figure out had the wheel off and levered and pounded on links bushings etc. How can I access the top strut mounts to check them? Nothing found on youtube. Original struts on rear show no leaks or broken spring. Bouncing car does nothing neither does grabbing the tire at 12 and 6 or 3 and 9 position.
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Looking to replace my strut and spring assembly on my 2007 Camry LE with 130,000 miles. What is the best China units out there. The list is many Prime Choice, Detriot Axle, Unity, FCS, AST, Sensen, ect.... Maybe they all are made at the same factory. FYI Monroe and Gabriel could be made in China. KYB complete units are assembled in USA, I called them up.
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My mechanic told me today that one of my struts on my 2006 Mazda3 (with 110k miles) is leaking and that the strut needs to be replaced. Is this something that has an impact on safety, or is it something I can stretch for a while longer? Is the strut going to break if it is leaking? Also, wouldn't I have to replace both of them?
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So I replaced the front strut and the popping is still there. When I removed the old strut it seemed like that would be the problem as there isn't any play in the ball joints and tie rod end.
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I have a 2007 Camry LE with 86K miles. The car was burning oil like crazy and failed the oil consumption test so Toyota put a new motor in the car. I picked it up from the dealer 2 weeks ago and after driving it 40 miles, the transmission went out. The dealership had it towed that day and now after 2 weeks of them not returning my calls or providing any update, they tell me that it was coincidence that my transmission failed 1 hour after I picked it up from them. What are the chances that it had nothing to do with the work they've done?
When I brought it in it was driving fine - the only problem was the oil consumption, no slipping or knocking. Now you can drive it for 20 minutes just fine, but as soon as it warms up, the transmission quits.
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So I changed the front struts, springs, mounts, bearings, etc with factory Toyota parts. The car is a 2007 Camry LE 4 cyl with over 200k miles. While the car does not pull to one side, the steering wheel is now at roughly the 2 o'clock position for the car to be driving straight. Nothing else was changed, replaced, or modified. I do notice the car sits much higher now than it did before (old struts leaked oil and needed to be changed).
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I recently replaced my factory struts with KYB's all in one solution. I also did the craft felt mod that HardTop suggested. Ever since they have been replaced I'm getting a weird noise. When I turn the steering wheel in either direction it makes a rubbing sound that is very audible. The vehicle drives fine, and the struts ride really well. However, the noise is a touch annoying.
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Experienced a noise from the strut when you close the hatch. I tried wd40 on the rod but it really didn't work. Not sure if its the cold weather that's causing this.
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I just changed to winter tires on my '09 ES350 and noticed that the strut is only about an 1.5" directly above the inside edge of the tire. See the photo, is this normal. FYI, winter tire is 17" and all specs are identical to the original.
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I Spent the day yesterday replacing all four struts on my '07 LE. I went with KYB, the installation went well (so I assumed). I put everything back together exactly as I took it down. Outside of the struts alone, I reused all other parts as everything seemed to be in good order.
Test drive: I seem to have a knock/clunk when going over bumps/pot holes at low speed (<35 and especially <15mph). At highway speeds (65+), I do not hear it at all, even if I hit something. I had a friend ride in the back and confirm that it was coming from the driver's side (left) rear.
Took everything back out and inspected, I noticed that the strut mount has a flange that runs to the flat side of the strut rod that looked a little worn, so decided to go buy a new strut mount (Monroe garbage, only thing available locally). I did notice the Monroe strut mount didn't have that flange the OEM one had, it is just a circle...I didn't know if that mattered. I Put in new strut mount on, same sounds in the same conditions. I want the clunk to go away.
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I have a broken rear strut on my 2009 LS 460 with 27000 miles. First noticed it about 25000 but dealer said it was only the cold weather and all was fine. I had a mechanic friend ride with me and he said I had a broken part in the rear suspension. Back to the dealer and this time they test drove it and diagnosed the broken rear strut. The tech told me that they had recently seen several LS 460's with the same problem. The broken strut causes handling problems and I am reluctant to drive at highway speeds.
The dealer (and all the other dealers I called) said that there are no parts available for the repair and one told me that the last strut had to be brought from Japan.
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Just changed out the struts on my ACV36R Camry Altise. Fitted up some nice Monroe GT struts and Kings Springs (front and rear) as well as new Nolathane bushes throughout.
Now, everything is tight, checked over every nut and bolt with a torque wrench to the correct specs but I have a loose rattle sound coming from the front right strut. What it could be before I tear the whole lot out again? I've been around it with a rubber mallet trying to isolate the rattle but I can't replicate it by hitting any of the components that I've replaced.
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I own a 2014.5 Camry SE, 4 cyl, 17 inch wheels. 2 months ago I had the right front strut and strut cap replaced, it had a loud popping noise in the r/front, the weird thing was the noise was present with 2 or more people in the car, when I was alone really couldn't hear it. Well I still don't hear the loud popping like it had but there is still a single pop noise over big bumps at low speeds, like a speed bump. I also have the winding up noise in parking lot turning, also only with people in the car, not when I'm alone. The new strut was obviously new, the new strut cap looks identical to the old one, same paint marks as the left side, my invoice shows a strut and mount replaced. I'm at 31000 miles, should I wait a few thousand miles to see if it gets worse? I feel even right after they replaced it there was still some noise in the r/front, I'm generally in my car alone, I'm pretty cautious over speed bumps and the like, my car is driven 80% highway. They only replaced the right front , no left side strut or mount.
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I just replaced all 4 struts on my 04 Camry. The car has 87,000 on it. I went with the Monroe OESpectrum struts and new strut mounts (Monroe). Springs looked fine, the rubber spring seats were fine as well and the bellows, so reused those items.
I now have a noise in the rear end that I did not have before. It sounds like it is coming from the lower part of the car and is not metal sounding. It is a very dull clunk when going over bumps in the road and is coming from both sides.
I replaced the sway bar bushings a couple years ago. I checked those and there is no play and appear to be fine. Also checked the sway bar links and they seem fine to me, but not sure what makes those bad. Torqued what I could. Used an electric impact wrench on the strut nuts and could not torque that because the rod spins.
I am taking it in on Monday for an alignment and to have the shop see if they can figure out the noise. Is it possible that the new parts could be binding and the alignment may take care of it? I have doubled checked my work and everything appears to be on correct.
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My 2008 Santa Fe (3.3 2WD) produces a knocking sound from the front every time I go on a bump while the wheel is turned. I can pretty much reproduce it at will. Occasionally, I hear the same sort knock from the rear as well, but I cannot confirm that it is consistent.
I do suspect that something is wrong with the struts. The only issue is that the car has 67k KM (41k miles), and to me, that seems a little early for that sort of thing to happen. My driving is pretty standard on standard roads, although winters up here tend to produce potholes that I sometimes cannot avoid.
I've had my struts fail on my last car (2000 Mazda Protege), but that was 9+ years old and with almost 3 times as much mileage on it.
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I have developed a rattle in the right rear which appears to be coming from the rear strut. It is more pronounced at lower speeds, especially over potholes, and disappears completely at highway speed.
I'm thinking it may be a loose strut nut or housing assembly and want to inspect the strut. Is there a simple way to remove the back seat to allow access to the rear struts? 2007 ES350 ....
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Took 08 Camry w/50k miles for rotation & balance and Alignment check at my neighborhood Michel Tires Plus, was told left front strut is leaking an oily-type fluid. I bought the Platinum Warranty when I bought this car new. The warranty is 7 yr/100,000 miles and there is -0- deductible.
While reading my copy of the Platiunum warranty, it states Exclusions from Platinum Warranty coverage includes shock absorbers, but it says nothing about struts. So are struts covered ?
If Toyota refuses to pay for any repairs, is there any room for negotiation? At this time there is no unusual noise from the strut area of the car.
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So I installed my H&R lowering springs about 2 months ago and I am very happy about the stance, ride, and handling up until about 2 weeks ago. The car always had a bit of a spring clunk coming out of the driver's side strut tower, but it has become more apparent and pronounced over the last few days. I already tightened the strut nut and shock tower bolts, what else is there to check out?
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I have a 2011 SF 2.4L FWD GLS with 79k miles. I replaced the OE struts and shocks 3 weeks ago with Monroe OE Spectrum struts and shocks. This improved the ride tremendously especially on the front passenger side where the strut was leaking.
After driving it for 3 weeks I still feel a little rattle or clunk when driving over ruff roads at slow speeds. I did check the ball joint and wheel bearings while I was in there, and I am certain they are not the source of the noise. I also checked the strut mount when I transferred it to the new strut, and while it appeared and felt ok I think it is the most likely cause of the remaining rattle and clunk.
Any aftermarket strut mounts for this particular model year? I have looked at RockAuto and they have a Moog Part # HYSB9816. This part claims it is for the European builds. Is there really a difference for this particular part?
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I replaced my MC, and still soft pedal, when I bench bleedI noticed that the screw in plugs to fit the tubes over it to bench bleed it, they both were loose and when I was bleeding it a lot air bubbles was goin thru the tubes, so I tighten the screws and belled it again this time I bleed it till no bubbles, installed the MC and we bleed the brakes, and still soft peddle, we are going o bleed again tomorrow. Were we supposed to bleed until the new fluid comes out? and if you can what is the best way to bleed the brakes?
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