Camry :: 2007 - Single To Dual Exhaust Conversion
May 20, 2016
I would like to retrofit the Lexus LS exhaust tips on my 2007 4 cylinder SE 4 Cyl, only if dual exhaust conversion doesn't have any adverse effects on my car.
Idk much about piping and exhaust systems. Where would the second pipe split from, after or before cat? what pipe diameter? Should the pipe diameter for both exhausts be smaller? Will it affect my hp/torque? Would it be louder or quieter? Any other forseeable effects?
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Can you fit a TRUE dual exhaust on a 2002 Camry?
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I have a 2012 Toyota Camry LE and I wanted to add a dual exhaust system like the camry se has, where could i find it? or could it fit the 2010-11 Camry dual exhaust system to my camry? and if it does, where could i find that?
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I have a 1994 Celica ST Coupe and looking for good dual or single subwoofer enclosure box that would fit neatly in the trunk against the back of rear seat.
I currently have a 12" Alpine in a huge box in the back- but it simply isnt practical. If I ever needed to remove my spare tire, I would have to disconnect the speaker and remove the entire enclosure.
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I have dual fabtech shocks in the front with 10" lift. I want to switch to all icon shocks. I think just the monotube, or are the remote reservoir going to ride a lot better? Would I be better off going back to single shocks in the front or keeping duals?
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So I'm interested in putting a new steering stabilizer on my truck and am pretty set on the Rancho RS7000 series, but I am torn between getting a single OEM replacement or the full dual stabilizer kit. Single replacement? Did it make a difference? I've heard really good things about the dual kit, but obviously the price difference is huge. I don't do a ton of off-roading, but I do drive constantly on crappy city roads which can be just as bad
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.What would happen if I had a muffler shop turn my stock exhaust into a true dual exhaust system with 2 magnaflow mufflers on my 6.9L N/A diesel?
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Is it possible to do so with out engine problems later? I would love to go with duals front to rear 3in pipe and tips. Any do's or dont's?
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Contemplating getting exhaust on my 2.5L SE. Haven't decided on what type of muffler, but I would only get one (1 in with 2 out). Two questions:
First, I'd like to get the bottom black piece from the V6 Passat with two cutouts for the exhaust tips. This way I wouldn't have to cut or modify mine -- just swap them out. Can you just swap out the black plastic or is the bumper just all one piece?
Second, on the right side bumper -- under the frame -- there is large cover. On the opposite side it's where the tailpipe is and what looks like another muffler? What's under this cover?
My bad for not knowing the technical terms for these parts.
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Been researching exhausts a bit and getting information about the full PPE header and PPE Dual mode exhaust to review?
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Today morning I just noticed that while I was warming up my 2015 sonata 2.0T limited, I found there is uneven exhaust flow. Driver side exhaust has more flow than passenger side exhaust. I could feel flow barely from passenger side exhaust. I am just wondering if it is normal or I should take my car to service.
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Looking to put dual exhaust on my 2010 F150. Which muffler. Flowmax or Magnaflow. Do not want it very load. Looking a little smooth churn like the Mustang. As you know ford is very distinctive and I want it to be heard to some degree.
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Just put a dual flowmaster exhaust on my truck, a week later my engine light came on. I also smell a sulfer smell and the truck seems to sutter when in gear at a stop, and also hard to start at times. What this could be!
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I have a 2013 F-350 with the 6.7L. I pull a 36' 5th wheel with a Swivel Wheel motorcycle on the back. So I'm pretty heavy. Plenty of pulling power, but going down hill, the automatic braking doesn't work anywhere near as well as the exhaust brake I had on my '96 F-250 with the 7.2L. Considering installing the BD Dual Vane Exhaust Brake. Looking for feedback about installing the BD DVEB. How well does it work?
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I feel like the stock 2014 camry se headlights and fog lights are WEAK! I cant see the road that well so I was looking at doing some HID conversion on both fog lights and headlights.
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I have a 2007 Camry le 4 cylinder. When under a load on the highway there is an occasional buzzing that occurs when accelerating (sounds like a piece of metal vibrating at a high pitch). It only happens under about 3000 RPMs and the noise doesn't occur any other time (idle, reving the engine while idle, slow speeds, etc.). Today I got it up on a lift and checked all of the heat shields under the hood and around the exhaust under the car. Nothing seemed loose. I had two mechanics look at it and one thinks that the exhaust flex pipe is the culprit, while the other insists that this is a known issue with the resonator (said a small piece may have broken off of a baffle inside and is vibrating). Are either of these components well known to cause this type of issue? I'd rather not replace both if one is frequently the cause.
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I'm driving a 2007 Prius [Gen II?] with 92k miles on her. I was told my belt has cracks and I should change it, and I've read about converting it to an electric pump. I've read the Prius C uses the same engine, and it has an electric pump. I THOUGHT I read about people putting them in the older models...
What do I need to know? Is there a controller board I need? How does it work? [Life compared to the belt driven model]Side effects? [Accel? Fuel economy? Anything else?]
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I have a 2007 Camry le 4 cylinder. When under a load on the highway there is an occasional buzzing that occurs when accelerating (sounds like a piece of metal vibrating at a high pitch). It only happens under about 3000 RPMs and the noise doesn't occur any other time (idle, reving the engine while idle, slow speeds, etc.). Today I got it up on a lift and checked all of the heat shields under the hood and around the exhaust under the car. Nothing seemed loose. I had two mechanics look at it and one thinks that the exhaust flex pipe is the culprit, while the other insists that this is a known issue with the resonator (said a small piece may have broken off of a baffle inside and is vibrating). Are either of these components well known to cause this type of issue? I'd rather not replace both if one is frequently the cause.
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How easy is this to do? I'm thinking about doing this to my 2003 Camry LE...
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A few days ago I managed to replace the front and intermediate exhaust pipes using new hardware and new gaskets. Prior to this (see my other thread about the rusted flex line), I did get P0137, but that was probably due to the fact the pipe broke before the O2 sensor, giving it a strange reading.
Two days ago after replacing the exhaust with Dealer parts, ensuring everything was tight, and putting the old O2 sensor back, I started the vehicle up, and upon idle, there were no lights whatsoever. Today several minutes after I started driving, I received the check engine light, and with the code reader, came up with the codes P0138 and P0606.
P0138 is O2 Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 2), which is the sensor I removed and put back.
I assume that this sensor needs to be replaced, and I assume that this has caused the P0606 ECM code as well.
Before ordering a new sensor, is there anything else I should check? I did make sure to plug the old sensor back in properly, and checked all the connections on the exhaust to ensure they were tight. All parts were Dealer parts, and nothing else was touched, changed, or modified.
The car sounds, and drives great since the exhaust change.
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I know I am stating the obvious but a clutch job on a 2010 Santa Fe CM (diesel) takes a lot of time.
My brides Santa Fe has over 280,000 km (175000miles) and has had the loud clatter from the flywheel (dual mass) for quite some time and more recently the pedal started to remain on the floor and the 'fix' of bleeding and flushing new fluid through the system stopped being effective. When a leak from the slave developed I was forced to accept that I would have to either fix or sell the vehicle.
By far the biggest obstacle I found was the non availability of a workshop manual to guide the task as it would no doubt speed the process massively for a number of reasons, some of which are listed below:
* Having a structured step by step procedure to follow, showing hidden bolt placement, torque settings, specific tools required and little tricks.
* By allowing one to assess the extent of the task and determine if one has the time/skillset/tools to deal with it would be great.
* Taking the guesswork away and thereby preventing unneeded parts removal.
* Having actual parts numbers to confirm parts suppliers supply correct parts.
Finally, of note is the way in which vehicle manufacturers assemble cars on the production line by using subframe cradles etc places massive extra difficulty with a task such as this as the clearances for tools, hands, arms and body are very very tight indeed.
I don't intend to outline a step by step process as others are far more qualified to do so, however I will point out some tricky things I have learned during the experience which may assist others. I will list them in no apparent order and will add others when I think of them.
1. The flywheel bolts are Torx T60.
2. The flywheel bolt access aperture had blocked access to the head of two of the bolts that required the use of a die grinder to remove some flywheel material. Not sure as to why this occurred or how.
3. Initially, I intended to remove the gearbox from the bell housing and remove both separately to make it easier but after removing the available bolts and prying the two apart (unsuccessfully) I removed the unit as a whole. Once on the bench I saw there were 4 bolts going into the gearbox from within the bell housing. So this unnecessary attempt needed me to split the two on the bench, scrape and clean old gasket material away and rejoin them together with new gasket silastic.
4. I supported the gearbox and bell housing from the top with an engine hoist and lowered it to be wrestled out.
5. I only dropped one side of the cradle but would remove it entirely if doing it again.
Probably enough for now i guess
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