today i was installing some lights in my car. i decided to use the shift light as my power source so i tapped into it but during the process i accidentally shorted it and i believe i blew a fuse somewhere. the shift light hvac control and the radio lights no longer turn on. Where is the fuse that blew and is it possible that theres a fuse behind the radio that blew?
View 4 RepliesLooking for instructions and pictures or video on how to change the bulb in the gear shift panel of my 2007 ES....
View 2 RepliesThe bulb in my overhead dome light has burnt out. I have the 194 wedge bulb. I have a moon roof. The owners manual gives no instructions to replace the bulb. I have looked the area over and do not see any easy way to gain access. Any instructions to replace the bulb?
View 2 RepliesMy friend with a 2007 SC430 has been having weird electrical issues for the past few years. He's owned the car about 6 years now, and probably 3 or 4 years ago things seem to have started acting up:
- the car burns out headlight and foglight bulbs very often, usually after less than a year since they are replaced. It hasn't mattered if the replacements he tries are OEM Lexus or aftermarket, they burn out within a year or so - sometimes within only a few months. He previously owned a 2002 SC430 for about 4 years and never had to replace any bulbs. On the 07, it's usually always one of the driver's side bulbs that will go first, and then within a month or two the passenger's side goes. Sometimes a headlight goes, then the foglight on the same or opposite side goes. Other times a fog goes out and a short time later the headlight on that side goes out.
- his driver's seat heated seat stopped working earlier last year. First the "bottom" stopped working, then a few weeks later the "back" section stopped too. Lexus diagnosed blown heating elements, which can't be replaced without replacing the entire section of the seat. So he found a complete seat from a wrecker and swapped it in. Everything worked fine for about 3 months, and now he is back to no heated seat again (this time both the back and bottom sections stopped working at the same time)
A Lexus dealer spent 4 hours "diagnosing" the car and came back saying all electrical systems are normal, so they can't say why the bulbs are always burning out or why two different seats have stopped working. The car is getting up there in mileage (closing in on 200K miles) but has always been properly maintained.
Just bought an 02' camry and the high mount brake light on the spoiler is half burnt out. Tried removing what I'm guessing is an LED assembly but the screws are stuck and the angle is really awkward. Am I going to have to replace the whole LED bar?
View 2 RepliesMy red ventilation symbols in the center console and the passenger side ones do not light up anymore . Are these lights inside changeable because now the center console looks a bit weird at night with only half the red vent lights lit up.
View 4 RepliesEasy to follow instructions on how to replace the burnt out dash lights on my 1998 mountaineer? I almost bought a new mountaineer; however, I decided to keep this one. It's been very good to me and it's paid off.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 prius with about 350k miles on it, bought it about a year ago and we have had our first trouble with it (it's been great so far, and when you consider it's mileage, pretty impressive).
We were driving along and a constant alarm started (beeeeep!!!) and lights on the dash lit up. I assumed it was cranky because the rear hatch wasn't closed or something and kept driving (we didn't have far to go). It wasn't long before smoke with a distinctive burnt electronics smell started coming up from the dash at the front left lower corner of the windshield. Then the brakes started to feel very unresponsive and sluggish (no regenerative braking either). She still runs and drives. So here is where I am now:
The car screams constantly and the brake light, ABS light and the (!) light are all lit.
I've been poking about and figured out that my inverter coolant pump isn't working properly. At this point I am wondering if this is just pure coincidence though (i.e. perhaps its not been working for awhile). I will be replacing this soon.
I checked the error codes and they all seemed to be un-related and or old (catalytic converter not working properly, ran out of fuel, etc). I cleared them and no new ones are populating. (car has only been driven around the block 3 times though)
The 12 V battery seems to be working fine, and it's getting the proper charging voltage. (voltage tested through the console under various conditions)
I have reset the braking system (bridging the #4 and #13 pins thing) and this turned the buzzer and lights off for about 20 seconds. Still no proper brakes. And of course the noise and lights just come back. Still no error codes via my Bluetooth reader and smartphone.
I have my doubts that replacing the inverter pump will fix this brake issue. I am familiar with working on cars, but this is my first foray with 1) a modern car and 2) a Prius. (Previous cars are all mid 90s or older, so I'm a little bit overwhelmed here...)
I notice on cold days my transmission hesitates to shift and holds 2nd - 3rd for a long time before finally shifting. Once the car warms , all is fine. Will and what could the dealer do for this? I would like it looked after before my warranty runs out.
View 11 RepliesWhile driving to work this morning my I4 shook hard, the dash dinged twice, the heater blower went off, and the dash lights either went dim or off. Just as the engine about hit its last revolution, it fired itself right back up and off I went.
The car had been driven for at least 45 minutes, it has 3/4 tank of gas, it was 21 degrees outside, and I was at a complete stop with my foot on the break. When it died I immediately put it in park but it restarted itself. I drove the rest of the way to the office and drove an hour home tonight without incident. When the car went down I noticed that the "miles since start" on my dash display went to zero. To me that sounds like an electrical shutdown. I do have a new battery too, it's less than a year old and the terminals are clean.
This car had 147,000 miles on it but only 50,000 miles on a rebuilt engine.
Our 2007 Camry dashboard lights up like as it should (regardless of lighting conditions) then after starting the engine or turning the key to the ON position, it dims to total darkness in about 3 seconds. I need this fixed tonight otherwise my wife will take my Tundra to work.
View 4 RepliesThe wife was driving the 07 XLE 4 cylinder the other morning. Temperature was around 2 F. She started the car. It started right up. Drove for around 5 minutes and shut the car off and went in to a store for 5 minutes. When she came back out and restarted the car an "E" appeared in the XLE's multifunction display and the low tire pressure light was also on. The car would not shift out of Park. The wife called me. I told her to shut it off and try restarting it. Same thing.
I then told her to shut it off and take the key out of the ignition and then try reinserting it and restarting it. That worked; it eliminated both codes and the car was able to be shifted normally out of Park. Since I still have about 10 months coverage left on my Platinum Extended Warranty the wife and I took the car over to the dealer. When I had my wife explain what happened to the dealer's service writer he just said I have never even heard of the "E" symbol. The tech said he never heard of it either. They did check out the car's shift/interlock system including the brake light switch, but could find nothing wrong.
Having an issue with my wife's 2007 camry V6. We got the car new and the orig battery lasted over 3 years until a trip NY where the intr light was left on for a couple of days. After several tries, the battery took a jump from a tow truck and got us home. The car ran for a few days then we had starting issues as well as the dash lights would flicker and the speedo neelde would jump along with the RPM gauge. So we changed out the battery.
Now we only get about a year per battery. We also noticed the drained batteries are typically accompanied with misfiring and a bad coilpack. Not sure how that fits into the equation but we have changed 3 of the 6 coil packs. The most recent batt swap only lasted 7 months. The flickering lights and jumping RPM n Speedo needles happen last firday when my wife called me to say "its at it again" driving rough, ABS light, Ck eng light on and flashing.
She got home late and parked it in the garage. The next morning i went out to inspect and it wouldn't start. Fast clicking sound of a dead batt. I changed the battery (Costco batt fitment 24f i believe) yesterday (Monday). She called this morning and the car is still riding rough and the ck eng light is on. My guess is another coilpack.
I have a 2007 Chevy Malibu, with 163,000 miles. About three weeks ago, about the time it really started to get cold, I had a 'Low Oil' warning come up. I drove about 150 feet to get out of the road and added oil. Ever since then I have been smelling burnt oil when stopped. I have taken to checking the oil every couple of days. I have yet to see any leaking oil. Is this something that I need to worry about, or is the car just getting old?
View 12 RepliesThis is the second time that this has been happening. Noticed that it only happens when I use tiptronic (manual). First time I was driving hard then floored brake become light turned yellow. Few minutes later, a rotten, sulfur, egg smell came out of no where and my sister thought I passed gas (when I did not).
Second time that happened was when I dropped off my friend late at night, went on manual but this time I drove casually & normally and didn't go crazy. As soon as my friend got off, there's more of a burnt smell then with a hint of a rotten egg that took place in my car.
My car is 2009 and has only 83k miles in it. Read to a similar scenario online and seems like my catalytic converter needs to be replaced.
I worried that my car is internally bad, should I bring it back to Toyota (where I purchased vehicle pre-owned) for a diagnostic?
02 Camry, how to I remove the burnt license plate bulb? Took off the underside trunk carpet and disconnected bulb harness, but I don't know how to remove the plastic piece that holds the bulb in place. Does it pull out, or twist out? I don't want to break it!
View 1 Replies1994 Camry XLE V-6 239,000 miles and just broke in. Dash brake light on??
I have checked brake fluid taking lid off the canister and level is spot on. Do not see any obvious leaks looking under the car at each wheel. Whatever is the cause it is no longer letting my cruise control to work. The cruise control system must be getting a constant signal telling it the brakes are being applied. Car brakes seem to work ok and I continue to drive car daily. Problem with dash brake light cropped up about 5 days ago after I cleaned the EGR valve.
I previously had a check engine light and code was for the EGR. Don't believe the problems are related but thought I would add this info anyway. BTW the check engine light came on again so cleaning the EGR didn't solve the problem. Will have to have the code read again to see if its the EGR or something else now. Dash is starting to look like a christmas tree with all the pretty colored lights on. What should I check to solve the dash brake light/cruise control issue.
For a long time the red airbag dash light has been on. It's a 2004 Toyota Camry V6 XLE. I've tried taking the battery lead off but that would be to easy to work. I'm not sure what caused it, I do all my own work on this car but I don't really mess with the airbags so I'm not sure how to diagnose this. What would cause this light to come on? I'm a kind of concerned that the airbags won't deploy in an accident and also not sure if it will pass the annual NYS inspection that I need ASAP. I really do not want to go to the dealer is there anyway I can troubleshot this myself?
View 9 RepliesMy car is a Toyota Camry 2003, automatic transmission. I don't know if the previous owner ever change the transmission fluid, but my car has 100k miles already. Today, I took the transmission fluid dipstick out, it look black and smell burnt, but I don't see any metal. I don't know how to take out the pan and check for metallic pieces, is there any auto shop that would do it for free?When I accelerate to 40mph from a complete stop, the RPM goes up the 3000 and then quickly drop to 2000, then gradually drop to 1300. My car speed up really slowly even when I keep holding the gas pedal down with my feet. Is my transmission slipping? Sometimes when I start my car or when I change gear, my car jerk a little. I'm afraid it too bad already and my transmission is depending on the broken metal pieces, so I don't know if I should flush it? Will changing the transmission fluid fix the problem?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2002 Camry SE. Recently, the 'door ajar' light on the dash has come on & will not go off. I have reclosed all the doors: still on. I have individually opened each door & pressed the door switch on & off: still on. I have checked the fuses under the hood & by the driver side panel & all look fine.
Also, two other things are curious about this: when I press the key fob to lock the doors, there is a high pitched whine that come from the passenger side engine compartment, & only stops when I press the unlock button on the fob.
The second is that when I am driving and I try to lock all the doors from the drivers arm-rest control, they all lock but cycle quickly to unlock again & will not stay locked. The dome light will not go off either.
Refilled the wiper fluid on my fiance's 2011 Camry LE today and low and behold the ABS + Slip Indicator lights came on in the dash next time she started the car.
No codes are throwing from the ECU and it drives fine. Only thing I can think to do is Drive it full tilt and see if I lose the back end and/or try braking aggressively from 40+ mph. Just to see if the ABS/Trac Control systems are hosed. Don't want to go to the dealer to have them try the same thing and me pay for it...