Camry :: 2007 SE - Noise At Startup On Cold Engine When Temperature Is Below Freezing
Jan 26, 2007
I have an 07 SE (manual transmission). In cold climates has noticed a noise at startup on a cold engine when the temperature is below freezing (colder than -5C or so)?
The engine has to be cold (like sat overnight) and the outside temp has to be cold. Then at start when I turn the key, the engine starts fine, but as I release the key from the start to the run position I hear what sounds like the starter motor make a noise (short zipping sound).
At first I wondered if it might be slow to disengage, but if that shouldn't make a noise because the gears should be meshed ok? There is no noise with a warm engine, or with a cold engine on a mild day.
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There was a TSB for 2AR engine, Engine Knock/Rattle Noise at Cold Startup. My question is for those I4 camry owner, do you have these rattle sound when you start your vehicle at cold? I am not sure if mines have the same issue, but pretty sure is I can't find any differences between mine and this clip:
You Tube
So should I take it to the dealer? Or it's normal?
[URL] .....
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I start noticing a weird noise upon cold start up. It sounds like something is grinding. First goes starter sound and then engine noise together with this grinding noise. Grinding noise goes away within sec. or so. It is not really loud, but it definitely not engine or starter sound.
It happens only on cold starts when engine is completely cold. If I start engine, let it run for few minutes, shut it down and restart again, it starts without grinding noise. Don't remember if car was doing it from beginning, never turned car while I was outside. Few weeks ago when temperature dropped below freezing point, I turned ignition through passenger door to warm up the engine.
After that I begun listening every start up. Every start up same noise. Every morning and every time after work I hear this noise. No noise if car been driven recently or engine is still warm.
Not my car, but sound is identical : [URL] ......
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I got a 2007 Camry 2.4 l4 engine under the hood and its didn't start this until we had a garage change the oil never did this when toyota changed it. Mostly when the engine is cold started there is a little bit of a rattling noise it will make until engine is warmed up and once its warmed up at times it will still sound kinda bad when it runs at normal engine temperature but this mostly occurs on cold starts and didn't start doing it until a regular garage changed the oil this never occurred when toyota dealership changed it
I don't know what kind of oil that was used in it last at that oil change but it started that about a week or so after that. Car currently has about 133,000 something miles on it ... Its not that loud of a noise but its noticeable when all doors are closed.
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My 2011 Camry LE I4 with 21k miles has a slight knock after cold startup, at Idle for a few minutes that disappears after warming up. If you start and drive and don't let it warm up the knock, under load, is more pronounced.
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Twice this week our 2009 SantaFe (3.3l) had a squeal from the engine upon cold startup. The first time it was very cold (-20C or so) and this was louder and longer than the second time (-10C or so). The squeal lasted only a few seconds and trailed off to nothing. Each time the heater controls were set on defrost (fyi). In order of likely suspects, I suspect one of the following:
-compressor engaging and causing sudden increase in resistance on the belt or compressor engagement clutch noisy
-idler pulley for some reason causing belt to slip at first, but don't suspect idler bearing as noise disappears right away
-belt slippage due to resistance somewhere else--e.g. water pump or alternator.
This may not happen when I take the vehicle in for its next scheduled maintenance as by then the weather will likely be warmer. This has 76000 km on the clock.
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I recently bought a 2011 460 L, CPO with 28,350 miles. I love the looks and how it drives, smooth! But I do have a concern. Before I go to the dealer I thought I would educate myself from the experienced LS owners. I am hearing a very brief (1-2 seconds) mild engine knock at a cold startup.
This only occurs when the engine is cold and has sat overnight. It never happens after this first startup, even after turning the engine off and then on again. It kinda sounds like the oil isn't getting where it should be for a few seconds. Engine sounds great with normal and hard acceleration throughout the day. The dealership where I bought it is 300 miles away, so I would be taking it to a local dealership.
Now I did hear this noise and mentioned it to the service manager when I first bought the car, and the service manager told me that this cold startup sound is normal. He also mentioned the direct injectors at idle. I guess sometimes it's hard to fully trust what dealerships say. Is he right?
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I bought a 2007 Mini Cooper, used, at a Ford dealership in August of 2010. For nearly two years I loved this car and didn't have to pay much in the way of maintenance. I bought the car at 55k miles, and now it has 92k. Over the past year, I have noticed a rattling noise at cold startup, and it was especially loud in the winter, and I also noticed that the car consumes oil. As the oil got lower, the rattling got worse, and whenever I topped off the oil the rattling stopped. I brought this up at the MINI dealership (where I get all my repairs on the car) during a routine oil change and they didn't take it seriously.
Well, Tuesday morning on my way to work, there was a sudden loss of power and the engine started missing bad. I was almost to where I work when the car just couldn't hold and idle and stalled. It wouldn't turn over after that and it sounded really "sick". I had the car towed to the dealer, where they told me the timing belt tensioner failed and it allowed the timing belt to jump "a great distance". Apparently, these are "interference" engines (a term I learned because of this incident) so the screwed up timing destroyed the engine. The dealer said it will cost 8,000 to completely replace the engine.
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This one comes just in time when the cold and bad weather has started! My car is exhibiting certain symptoms and I am trying to figure out whether this is an issue with physical duct and air passageway components, the computer or something else....
When I turn on climate control, the car will blow air temp according to the one inputted only when I am driving, as soon as I come to a standstill, no matter what temp i input in the CC on the center console, the air will be freezing cold.
Now I don't know if its the computer sending improper signals to the duct system, a bad sensor or some problem with the duct passageway system.
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I have santafe 3.5 2012 4WD , it's 51K on odometer, the problem when cold startup , Noise and small vibrate form front side , its look like from gears
When put to reverse (R) sound is louder and strong vibration from front side, all this problem gone when drive about 15 minutes.
I have visit 3 local shop they check the engine, gear box, everything normal, no check indicator appears.
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so with the weather turning cooler i have noticed a new noise. i am at 34,000 miles and run synthetic oil ever 4-5k miles.
I hear a rattling/knocking noise when you start engine, not right away, but like after 15 seconds and it lasts about 30 seconds then seems to go away and is quiet again.
Almost sounds like a lifter is tapping due to not getting oil.
I changed the accessory belts a while ago and it did not first make this noise right after but maybe a few days after which coincided going from 80 degree weather down to 40 degree weather.
Could it be an accessory belt being too tight? If so, why wouldn't it make it on startup? I can see it going away as rubber expands as the warms but I would expect it to make the noise from starting till then. Not 15 seconds into running.
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I have a 2003 Corolla with 178K miles and a 2007 Camry V6 XLE with 30k miles. Both make a tapping sound when the engine is not at normal operating temperature (when the engine is still cold during the morning). I've changed the oil regularly on the Corolla with 5W-30 oil every 5k miles. I'll be making my first oil change on the Camry in about a 1 week.
The tapping noise goes away once the engine gets warm. Is the tapping noise normal? I don't hear this noise from our Honda Odyssey, which uses 5W-20). Can using a different weight oil work?
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I've got a 2003 f150 with the 5.4 and 128,000 miles with an engine tick. Its not an exhaust leak I know that for sure. It has came up in the last 20,000 miles. I've used motorcraft 5 20 w/ motorcraft filter. I've tried a kreen engine treatment with no change. Heres the description/syptoms:
-Slight clatter for 2-3 seconds upon cold startup (happens very rarely)
-top end ticking that is loudest and most noticable when warm (quieter when motors cold)
-not timing chains/tensioners etc because the noise is coming from the top end and most noticeable on the passenger side.
-at idle the tick is present-when you rev at idle, the noise goes away.
-Driving (or having the engine under any load for that matter) the noise gets louder.
-Anytime I accelerate, tow/haul, go up an incline the noise gets worse
-Sounds like a "whirring" sound from within the dash.
With all that said I am thinking the lash adjusters are getting noisy. I had a certified gm tech that has 40 yrs mechanic experience under his belt and builds prostreet muscle cars on the side look at it. He listened to it to it and that was his diagnosis as well as its not that bad so just live with it. The noise at idle doesn't bother me, its when im driving with the windows down. The noise drives me crazy and is a little annoying to me.
Heres a link to a video of the sound and keep in mind it is much louder now : Triton engine noise/tick - YouTube
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While we continue to enjoy our recently acquired Mineral Gray 2011 Santa Fe, I have noted a momentary engine noise upon startup after it has been shut down for say 2 hours or more.
The noise reminds me of having an oil filter with a malfunctioning or absent drain back valve where by the bearings will complain for 2-3 seconds until oil pressure rebuilds
The SF has but 20.7K miles on it to date. Do we know of this is usual for the V6, or should I be concerned and planning a dealer visit?
I love the power of the V6! We test drove a 4 cylinder model first thinking that was the way to go for economy reasons. I found this one with such low mileage, AWD, and the V6 at a great price so we jumped on it.
I am a little disappointed though that the AWD does not function "full time" like that on my 04 Dodge Durango. The SF runs rings around the Durango in the mpg department though.
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It only burns oil when the ambient temp is above freezing. Why would this be?
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There has been below freezing temperatures here in NYC and I noticed that the air suspension is disabled when left out in the cold.
The fist time I noticed this was when the temperature was 15 degrees and while driving the ride was very bouncy. I noticed I didn't hear the air compressor coming on. I tried raising the suspension from "N" to Hi or Lo but nothing happened when I pressed the button, not even the light, it just remained on "N".
I parked inside the garage and after about 20 minutes I heard the air compressor running and felt the car leveling itself. I was also able to adjust the by using the height control switch.
I have come to the conclusion that the cold weather is causing the air suspension to be disabled. I'm thinking the suspension should work at these temperatures. Is there any DIY for removing moisture from air suspension?
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When the temperature is above freezing, the Passenger Airbag light is always "Airbag Off" and the flashing red light does NOT engage, regardless of whether a passenger is sitting in the seat and regardless of whether the seat belt is latched.
When the temperature dips below freezing, the system works as expected:
No passenger: light is "Airbag"
Passenger with seat belt: light is "Airbag On"
Passenger with no seat belt: light is "Airbag On" with red flashing seat belt sign
I can't imagine the issue is related to a component inside the passenger compartment (the seat weight or latch sensors), as the temperature inside the vehicle is usually above 60 F. That said, are there any components outside the compartment (under the car or in the engine compartment) that could be causing this behavior? Is this a water freezing/unfreezing issue, caught in some wiring somewhere?
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3.4 2001 GLS.. When it's near freezing out there and humid, the car won't crank, it's not the starter since I can get it going by jumping it.. I'll just leave the car alone, go to work and start it later and it will start just fine for who knows how long..
It did it 2 days ago, I didn't notice any security light on solid or anything else whatsoever but I think I have an electrical intermittent problem that gets worst with humidity or colder humid air.. I've read most topics here but I still can't figure it out so far.. Inspecting the fuse box showed that the positive wire was surrounded by green dust, I've cleaned that.. My horn sounds anemic at times when I use the remote door lock..
Is there a relay dedicated to crank the car, I mean, sending the power to the starter solenoid? I just don't get the relation with that near freezing or freezing temperature thing..
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Experiencing the Nav system freezing on startup? I tap "Agree" to the legal and it doesn't respond. I literally had to turn the car off at an intersection - open the door and re-start to get it to work. (twice) The problem has since disappeared again but guaranteed it will return again...
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Noise question. I have a 2011 super duty f250 xlt, and my question is I have a grinding noise that does not sound metallic and only shows up when its below freezing, only in drive and for about 50 yards.
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Idles really high at startup until the engine gets to normal operating temperature and falls back to normal. Takes 10-15 minutes. I recently de-greased the engine and think I may have fouled a sensor...though the check engine light is NOT on. I'm afraid if I keep this the way it is it will cause damage to the engine.
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